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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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  • 1994 F 250 7.5 manual trans.

    When I have the negative battery cable disconnected I get 12.7 volts between the cable and the negative battery terminal. I have disconnected the starter, alternator, and removed all of the fuses and replaced them one at a time to determine which circuit might be the problem. This is where I get lost as I have five fusses that all trigger the problem. I have even traced it to the next fuse box and have found the following areas to be the problems.

    Audio Power
    Fuel pump relay
    Trailer brake feed
    Courtesy dome light, radio clock memory, speedometer, warning buzzer.
    Door locks
    ABS, Electrical control, Cruise control.

    I can find nothing in common with these elements that would be causing the problem.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    First, you need to be measuring the amount of current that's being drawn instead of voltage. That would be in amps rather than volts (hopefully milliamps!).

    The radio memory will definitely be drawing something, and probably the audio power will as well. Start by putting your meter on its highest amperage setting so you don't overload it if something is drawing heavily, then gradually step down and take note of the readings.
  • i have a 95 ford f250 with a 5.8 .. engine codes 321 171 exhaust maifolds are getting red when driving red hot .. loss of power .. and when it cools down the exhaust maifolds turn white thank you for any help
    :sick:
  • Did you ever find out what the problem was. I'm having the same problem, but only in cold weather.I lose oil pressure off and on when first starting my truck.
  • I'm hoping one of you ultra electrical savey people can shed some light on my problem (pun intented). My brake lights have quit working on my "94" F-250. I've checked the fuse and the brake switch both of which are good, and I have current to both. My flashers work as do my turn signals. I'm wondering if the brake light on the back of the cab is in series with the actual brake lights and if that bulb is bad could that be why the lights in the back of the truck won't work, a long shot I know but I'm getting desperate. I have a large fiberglass topper on the truck and didn't want to remove it if this wasn't a possability.
  • When I start my truck the oil pressure gauge fluctuates from no oil pressure to normal oil pressure for a period of time. After a short period the oil pressure will stay ok. seems to happen mainly in cold weather.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's probably the pressure sensor, but if it's not you could have a more serious problem. You can either replace the sensor, or check the oil pressure independently, preferably with a mechanical gauge. You can probably buy one for less than it would cost to have it checked at a shop.
  • I have Excusion which is a 250 also.Mine is a powerstroke and I had that problem also.but all my electic inside would actup, Inotice it was doing rainy weather mostly.had it checked they did not find a problem,
    i drove the truck from fl.to va.the next day and back and every day since and nock on wood I still dont know what caused that to happen.If you find out let me know
  • I have a f-350 drw 4x2 the rear end was replaced after a accident and it shaked every time i put on brakes,so they said it just a ford problem. but it was a bad rear end now I have to replace it.
    do anyone know the best replacement for this truck which only pull a boat of 6000lb sometime,if so reply.
  • I have a 2001 F-150 Supercrew with 83K miles. It has recently had stalling issues on several occasions. It has stalled at idle and in park, stalled at a red light, and stalled going 55mph down the road. There are no warnings and no check engine light. Any ideas?
  • I just recently bought a 1997 Ford F 150 LT (4.6L). So far its been a great truck. I'm trying to figure out how the 4x4 on the fly works. Actually how the 4 wheel drive works as a whole. Its my first time owning a 4x4 vehicle. Do all 4 tires move at once? Is it limited slip, how do I even know the 4 wheel drive works? I've put the truck in 4 wheel drive and the light on the dash comes on but does that mean the 4 wheel drive is actually working. If anyone has any helpful advice it would be greatly appreciated
  • path2path2 Posts: 3
    Please refer to path2 messages. I had trouble starting my 2001 F250 Diesel when the temperature drooped to 35 or below. When I came back from Alaska I took it to Anderson ford here in Omaha and they correctly diagnosed a faulty fuel injection relay switch. They replaced it for me and now I have no more problems starting the truck in cold weather. Hope this helps someone else out there.
    Path2.
  • i also have a 2005 f150 4x4 that sounds like the same problem . kinda sounds like a muffler draging down the road .very loud then goes away? i took mine to the dealer ,they replaced the trans module. that didn't solve the problem . i dont know what it is, i was hoping for some help here as well.
  • Hi, i have a 1995 ford f-150 truck A/T, V-8, 5.0L engine

    I was under my truck and at the bottom of the transmission is a hole about the size of a half dollar. i think it used to have some sort of rubber plug/cap covering it, but it is no longer there. I can see inside the hole what appears to be the flywheel, if that helps you visualize where the hole is.

    the truck runs fine and has transmission fluid in it. I think that cap/plug that is missing is not or was not holding fluid/oil.

    What is that hole for, and most importantly what is that cap called or what do i tell the auto part store i need so i can replace it.

    thanks very much. you can also email me at parkerduplexes@austin.rr.com
  • I have a 2004 F-150 and recently it started to make a grinding sound at intermittent times. It stops with a "clunk" as I come to a halt. I have taken it to a dealer and of course when they drove it, the noise did not occur. It seems to be eminating from the transmission area. Anyone with a similar problem? :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Not sure what the title refers to, but what you're describing sounds like the drain at the bottom of the bellhousing. The bellhousing is a casting that connects the transmission to the rear of the engine and contains the torque converter (or flywheel and clutch in a manual transmission). If the transmission, torque converter, or rear crankshaft seal leak, then the fluid can escape through that hole, rather than build up inside.
  • i have the same problem with a 05 f-150 4x4 only 4000 miles. i have been looking here for help also ,dealer cant find the problem . the grinding sound is very loud kinda sounds like a muffler draging under the truck. then the " clunk" and its gone . this only last for 5 to 20 seconds then it goes away. i have read a few messages with the same problem but no one has any solutions.
  • When traveling over 30mph and under 65mph and when ever the rpm drop anywhere between 1300 and 1600rpm the engine begins to sputter. Anyone have any idea's what could be wrong.
  • thank you for the reply. I don't know much about engines, so i apoligize if my title is ?????.

    that hole used to have some sort of plug/cap. Do you know what it would be called or where i can get a new one???

    thanks
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's not something you need to worry too much about, but if you want to replace it I'd drop by the Parts Dept. at your local Ford dealer. Just describe it as a fitting that goes at the bottom of the bellhousing. I doubt that it'll be more than a couple of bucks.
  • thank you very much for your help!!!!
  • I have2004 F150 4X4 and had the same - loud grinding sound occur while traveling. When I stopped - there was a shifting sound and the noise stopped. The sound was very loud..I cannot imagine this being a minor problem. The truck trans. already vibrates/stutters a lot when accelerating. Any solutions to this. I am stationed in Germany and there are no dealers here. I will need good info to provide the mechanic. EW
  • The noise only occurs now and then but normally happens when I accelerate fast (normally on the onramp to a freeway) and sounds like I have just run something over that has hit the engine (a hard sounding clank). Sometimes I hear a fluttering sound in the engine above 60mph either with or without the clank noise. New noises are always disheartning especially after I have taken great care of my truck. The truck has 82000 miles.

    Does anyone have an idea as to the problem(s)?
  • sounds like the i ack motor on top or side of the throtle body one plug two nuts its round about 5in long .. try to clean it first we change alot of them for stalling
  • Did you check for a broken motor mount? Engine may be shifting as a result of the torque from hard acceleration. Fluttering noise could be an exhaust leak as a result of the movement.

    Had it happen many years ago, and fan would hit the radiator shroud when the engine shifted.
  • I have a 2002 Black F150 and the paint is beginning to crack under the clear coating I had put on. I believe if it wasn't for the clear coat the paint would have already started to curl up and peel. I am getting the run around on it from my Dealer. Has anyone else had problems with their paint jobs?

    Thanks
  • Stick to your GUNS boys, It'll be worth your time, if you have all your ducks in a row(# of days out of service, RO's, all notes of calls to "Ford Customer Service", all notes of conversations at dealerships,etc.). Thats about all I'm aloud to say. The new body style F150 problems, vibrations, rear end clunk, and steering shudder, are what Ford calls "Characteristics of this Vehicle", but they have no fixes available, only excuse attempts to repair. Beware of purchase date, you have one year from date of purchase to benefit, also, beware of mileage, this is deductible as usage off of fair market price. Good Luck.... Vibes of Ford
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Just a reminder, as noted in the post box and the Rules of the Road (link in left margin), we highly discourage email addresses in your posts. When responses are made via email, they deny the rest of the members answers to questions they may have as well. Posting your email address also put you at risk from those who may use it maliciously.

    Thanks!
    kcram - Pickups Host
  • Our 1987 F150 Supercab 4X4 has had a charmed, one owner life here in New England. Not many miles, never plowed, washed, detailed, and painted regularly, very good body and drive train, etc. BUT, I noticed rust through areas on the passenger side frame rail. The rusted out spots are (looking forward toward the front of the truck) right where the control arm bolts in and the frame then arches up near the front shock mount area. Yeh, I know it is 17 years old but to have the frame rot away? And not even on the more exposed to salt driver's side? Would it have rotted if it were a boxed frame?

    We'd like to buy a new truck. The Dodge Ram 1500 has caught my eye only because of the vibration problems with the F150 and the Dodge frame is boxed. Are we making a mistake? Is the F250 SD vibration free and is its frame boxed? Please talk to me. I had expected to get through winter with this truck.
  • Thank you for the quick reply. I will check into your thoughts.
This discussion has been closed.