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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • tgonzotgonzo Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Ford F-150 XL and I cannot find the jack!
    I've looked under the hood, inside the truck, under the truck where the spair tire goes, in the extended cab area and I can't find it.
    Help! :confuse:
  • gmac2gmac2 Posts: 1
    Had the same problem. Fix it with some good door lube (spray) into lock opening areas on the side of the door. A little electronic switch gets stuck. There is one on all four doors just below the latching mechanism. Worked for me. I slammed the doors for two weeks before some good guy fixed it for me. Good luck
  • tallyhotallyho Posts: 2
    Went out to get in my truck this morning after driving it yesterday and it will not start. Cranks but won't turn over. Is there some diesel mystery that I should know about? Any help will be greatly appreciated. :mad:
  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,495
    If you've been experiencing slow/difficult starting for the last few days/weeks, then your batteries are shot. This is always a sign for me - hard starting = fresh 12-volts. It's most important with a diesel because it needs all that juice to get started, but very little to actually stay running.

    kcram - Pickups Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • tallyhotallyho Posts: 2
    This was a sudden problem. No dificulty starting before yesterday and it certainly sounds like the battery is okay. Not your typical clicking sound of a dead battery.
  • volksvolks Posts: 3
    I wanted to update since my last trip to the Ford hospital.The truck went into "hyper-shake" again , I called and made a service appointment with my dealer. At my request they kept the truck for several days , put over a hundred miles on it , and it indeed went into "hyper-shake" on them. Here is what they have done to correct the problem: Adjusted the driveline inclination angle , changed clock posistion on the driveshaft and reprogrammed the trans pcm. The tech told me he got the " shakes" between 48-52 mph , exactly when I have experienced the problem , and he felt trans shudder was the main problem. Since picking up my truck , It is much smoother at all speeds and I have not had even a hint of vibration at 48-52 mph. Hopefully this will take care of it / time will tell. just wanted to post my findings to everyone with similiar problems !
  • micomarkmicomark Posts: 11
    To all those having problems with 2004 or 2005 F-150 vibrations and drive-train problems. Here what I am experiencing and I have hired an attorney to process a "lemon law" case in Ohio in forcing Ford to take this POS Ford back. I have had the rear axle assembly replaced with less than 1000 miles on the vehicle and three tires replaced "Goodrich Rugged Trail". I still am having the following problems. Simply stated. This vehicle appears to have serious engineering problems. I think they may have lightened the cab up so much that every vibration the vehicle generates from either, engine, driveshaft, differential, etc is resonating up throught the cab. Thus, no fix. Truly a lemon. See your attorney looks like the only relief fromt his lousy vehicle. It makes me sick I traded in a real nice performing 2002 F150 for this thing. That was a good truck.
    1.. Vehicle continues to generate excessive drive train delay-slip-slap-crunch (for lack of an encompassing term) at various times while starting and driving in start and stop traffic. i.e. when accelerating from a dead start, when decelerating in a road dip and accelerating out of a road dip, when decelerating and slowing to make a turn and accelerating out of a turn. The slip and slap is also experienced at times when slowing and the vehicle downshifts. A very bad situation: Is when slowing down or rounding a turn and then accelerating out of it. Where at that certain speed when the torque from acceleration pulls out the drive train slack and the transmission shifts to the next gear simultaneously. There is a slap and thud that will make you think the wheels are falling off this vehicle.
    2.Vehicle continues or has returned to generating excessive cab vibration under at least three different driving conditions. I performed three specific tests on smooth road with long inclines. First test was performed in the early morning 6:00 AM when colder and the second in the late afternoon 4:00 PM over the same road when outside temperature was 80 degree’s. Tests one and two were with a #3000 tow load. Third test was without a tow load.
    a. When drive train is under torque while climbing a long road incline without a tow load. Such as the long upgrades on I-70 east of Rt 13. When reaching top of grade and decelerating or coasting the vibration diminishes.
    b. When drive train is under torque while accelerating with a tow load while climbing a long road incline and also on flatter terrain.
    c. When accelerating in general at slower speeds during acceleration and while generating drive train torque. However this vibration is not as aggressive as a and b.
    3. Vehicle is still generating hard tire or flat spot thumping response. Thumping is excessive when tires are cool to cold and lesser when tires are warm to hot. This can be experienced when reaching the top of a long road incline during the deceleration or coasting phase as mentioned above which eliminates the drive train interference for tire ride detection. If tires are cold the tires thump harder if the tires are hot it is much lesser but still apparent. Detected during first and second test in item 2 above.
  • micomarkmicomark Posts: 11
    Unfortunately the 2005 F-150 has all the same problems you discuss. I have had three new tires and a rear differential and still have the vibration when vehicle is under torque of any kind. Also have slip-slap-crunch sound coming from the drive train on acceleration and when slowing and then accelerating. This platform is truly junk and definately a lemon. See you attorney about a lemon law case just as soon as you have three service orders attempting to fix this problem.

    All the mail on this issue indicates dealers are just trial and error attempting to fix this problem without really knowing the true cause.
  • tgonzotgonzo Posts: 2
    Anybody?
    How about where is the jack in your F-150? :confuse:
  • micomarkmicomark Posts: 11
    In my 2005 F-150 super cab it is located under the rear seat on the passenger side.
  • micomarkmicomark Posts: 11
    Update on my previous message: I noticed someone stated that vehicle details would be helpful when you post a particular problem in helping others better relate the issue to their own set of circumstances. Good idea. Here are my details in respect to the vibration problem on the apparently 2004 and 2005 F-150 platform.
    Amazing this significant problem carried over from 2004 to 2005. This platform was apparently released premature and is a true engineering failure for Ford. My truck is a 2005 F-150 Lariat, 4X4, 5.4L, Limited Slip, Super Cab, 3.73 differential, column shift automatic. It has both a substantial vibration problem and substantial drive train slack problem. It also sounds like the gears in the differential do not mesh well on acceleration as there is a slip then a crunching type sound. See Message #1130 for a more complete analysis of my problems with vibration and drive train noise. I saw where someone still had vibration problem with 3.55 rear axle. I am wondering if the 3.33 differential that used to be in 4x4 and now only 4X2 is experiencing these problems as well? I know my 2002 F-150 4X4 333 gears was rock solid compared to this 2005 POS.
  • ltz2003ltz2003 Posts: 24
    I am sorry to read about all the problems people are having. I have been gm all my life .Now i have my first ford , its F-150 FX-4 SC. This is the best new tk we have ever owned . Lots better than my last two gm trucks. 13000 miles not one thing wrong towing or otherwise. I would buy one agan in a heart beat. My brother liked it so much he went and got one. He loves his to . Good luck i know there is a lot of problems with some trucks . BUT THERE NOT ALL BAD
  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,495
    Next thing to check would be any type of electrical drain. Even though lights and the stereo will come on, you still may not have enough juice to get the diesel fired up. If a jump gets it going, it was a discharged battery, and you should have them checked anyway.

    If you can completely rule out batteries/alternator/starter, then you may have a fuel delivery issue. This could be a dead fuel pump or injectors. (Hopefully, no one siphoned your tank dry in this day of high fuel prices.) You could also have an issue in the glow plug circuitry (short, etc.), although the engine should fire without them, just with great difficulty.

    kcram - Pickups Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • mjkrammjkram Posts: 9
    I have a 2004 Lariat Supercrew 4x2, with which I've had my share of vibration and dealer problems. A new driveshaft and a shim in the carrier bearing seem to have solved about 95% of the trouble. My question is why some otherwise identical trucks have a 1 piece driveshaft, and others, like mine, a 2 piece assembly? My manufacture date is 5/04. The 4x2 Supercrew I looked under, with a 1 piece driveshaft, was manufactured 1/04. The owner of the 1 piece truck said he never had any vibration issues. I've also looked under two 4x4's, both of which had 1 piece units. Does the vibration occur more in one type than the other?
  • wildcatswildcats Posts: 3
    I agree. I bought a new F250 diesel in December after having owned an Expedition for 6 yrs. Nothing on the Expedition was required other than scheduled maintainance. The new diesel is awesome and one heck of a tow vehicle!

    I recently went on a trip in a friend's Honda Pilot for 200 miles and back. Lots of road noise, the seat cushions are short with not much leg room and the ride was nothing to brag about. I don't see why people even buy them. Give me my F250 anyday!
  • thedave1thedave1 Posts: 1
    I have two questions. I just bought a used 2002 F-150 extended cab, longbed, 58,000 miles, with the V-8 two days ago. It appears to have been kept very well by the previous owner.

    First, the towing question. It has a towing package installed rated at 5,000 lbs. max. I am going to be towing a 1999 Mazda 626, front wheel drive, manual transmission, from California to Iowa in a couple months. My question has to do mainly with which type of trailer I should rent. I know a tow dolly can work, but am wondering if a full-size trailer would be more stable and easier to tow for that long of a trip?

    Second, the rough engine question. Like I said, I bought it two days ago. Ran great. Drove the you-know-what out of it and no signs of trouble at all. Later that evening I took it in to have the factory cassette replaced with a new CD player. Didn't drive it yesterday, Today, it starts running rough and idling rough, though not always. I read in the owner's manual that when the battery is disconnected that the computer has to "relearn" idle and fuel settings. It even has a sequnece for helping it do this, and I seriously doubt it has been done properly. Since I'm sure they disconnected the battery when they installed the CD player, and it seemed fine before that, is this most likely my problem? Or, should I be searching for something else? Thanks.
  • greasygreasy Posts: 2
    :mad: my friends flashers are not working .checked lights then fuses and tried to find the flasher. looked under the glove box, by the steering and on the fuse block .im looking for the round can (flasher)and have not found it .nothing in the om tells me where it is .so where did they put it and what dose it look like :confuse:
  • ericb1ericb1 Posts: 2
    I am curious why there is no grease fiting on the front U joint (right behind C6 tranny) on a 76 E350 motor home? 351 W motor.

    How will I know when the U joint/driveshafts need replacement? Thank you, EricB
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's hard to answer that without sounding like I'm trying to be smart. ;)

    So.............if there's no grease fitting on a 'u' joint, any 'u' joint, it's because it's sealed for life. Who's life?........the life of the joint of course. Could be ten minutes, could be ten years.

    How will you know when it needs replacement? When there's any detectable movement, which will mean it's reached the end of its life.

    See, I said I'd sound like a smart .............. oh well! :blush:

    Sorry ericb, but it's the truth.
  • volksvolks Posts: 3
    Coming home from a short trip Sunday , the 04 f150 screw 5.4 4wd lariat model went into hyper shake ...... again. this time I was really close to the house , so I kept on going , shake and all. Having a really complete garage setup , I thought I would take a look myself this time , instead of another dealer trip.
    As soon as I parked the truck , I smelled burned friction material coming from the driver side rear . I jacked up the rear end , removed the tires both sides , removed the calipers / they came right off, nothing frozen etc , that led me to believe it had to be the parking brakes hanging.So here is what I found after removing the rear brake rotors {which wasn't easy/they should slide right off} The parking brake cam actuators were rusted together , not allowing the parking brake shoes to fully retract when the pedal is released. I removed the brake sets , cleaned and wire wheeled down the actuator assy's , lubed them up , lubed the adjusters and brake shoe mounting points {everything bone dry from the factory} and reinstalled and properly adjusted the parking brakes. It all works like it was supposed to now . This may be more than the average owner wants to tackle , Honestly I shouldn't have had to do this either , but the dealer never found this , and I am getting tired of taking the truck in everytime it shakes. I don't know if this will cure the problem , But I hope this may help someone else with similiar shake issues and maybe point Ford in the right direction !!
This discussion has been closed.