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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • Ed,
    Sounds like one or both of your batteries is shot. If remaining battery is only reading 5V it's most likely been too severely discharged and won't recover. The glow plugs take a lot of juice, which is why the PSD has two batteries. The arcing you see when you hook up the second battery is that battery trying to re-charge the first one. Unfortunately, if the second battery has been hooked up for some time now, it's probably been discharged deeply as well. It could now be shot as well.

    The chattering relays that you hear when attempt to start the truck is a sign that the voltage in the system is too low to allow the relays to actuate properly. The coil in the relay tries to move the contactors, but the voltage is too low so it can't move all the way, but it keeps trying and gives you the clacking noise. Eventually the voltage falls lower and the relays don't move at all.

    Big question is what killed the batteries in the first place? Is there some problem with your charging system, i.e. altenator, voltage regulator, etc.? You may want to have it checked out, or you could end up killing the new batteries too. At places like Sears, the charging system checkout is either free or discounted, if you buy the batteries there or have them do repair work.
  • Wpalkowski, Thanks for the info.. It still does it with both batteries fully charged. As soon as I connect the first battery the relays start in. This is with the key out of the ignition. Does that still sound like a weak battery? I don't know if the batteries are good other than they did fine until I took the one out. After the charge they read >13.0 volts. Also can you suggest a good manual that has the wiring diagrams etc.. Thanks again, I appreciate all your time. Take care, Ed
  • Disconnect batteries. Do voltage readings stay at 13V, after 4-6 hours (at room temperature)? If after that time, voltage reading goes below ~12.5V, then battery isn't holding a full charge. Still better to have them tested under load, or to measure specific gravity of battery with a hydrometer (if it's not a sealed battery).

    The Haynes Manual at Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. has basic wiring diagrams. But they're not always specific to your model/engine/year truck. Helm sells dealer's shop and electrical manuals (www.helminc.com). They're the best but, quite pricey! (Though they're worth it first time you save yourself a big repair bill.) Try searching E-Bay for the Helm manuals. Sometimes you can pick them up on CD-ROM for a heck of a lot cheaper.
  • Wpalkowski, Thanks again for the additional information. I took both batteries to Advanced Auto to have them tested and one is bad. I haven't had a chance to try it yet with the new one, but when I do I will let you know. Take care, Ed
  • Simply put: do all of the current style F150s have the vibration problem or just some? Is it restricted to any one drive train/chassis combo?

    In thinking about the problem I'm wondering if the new rigid boxed chassis coupled with the much more direct rack and pinion steering isn't the problem? No one has suggested this and it might be an idea.
  • fpd7fpd7 Posts: 1
    My 1997 Honda Accord had the exact same symptoms. After several times stopping like this (we were on vacation) the ABS light came on, and it was deactivated automatically.
    The shop reported one ABS Sensor was bad, and it was sensing that one wheel was locking up, so it was releasing the brakes as it should when there is a skid.

    Replacing the sensor fixed the problem.
  • Thanks for your reply. I will look into the sensors. The interseting thing is that the ABS system worked fine until I replaced the left front caliper and front rotors. Immediately after the ABS malfunction occurred. My local garage could find no failure callout with his code reader so he recommended i see a Ford dealer. I guess that is what I must do as I am not sure how to test each sensor. Dirt may be the cause or possibly leaking brake fluid when I was replacing the caliper although i don't belive it got on the sensor. I thought I read somewhere some cars or trucks had ABS problems due to dirt affecting the sensors.

    An unrelated point of interest is that last week i lost my braking due to rusted out brake lines. one would think that the materials used for brake lines should last longer than 8 years.

    Thanks for you reply.
    J Allan
  • I have a 1999 ford diesel. the service engine soon lights
    comes on. when the light is on the transmission run rought.
    the computer shows a map sensor . I have changed the mat sensor. this did not solve problem. any suggestions.
    thanks lanny
  • CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW TO GET MORE BOOST BY SENDING A FAKE SIGNAL TO THE WASTE GATE ? I HAVE A 1999 F-350 7.3 POWERSTROKE
  • CLEAR THE COMPUTER THEN START ALL OVER. WHEN IT HAPPENS AGAIN SCAN THE COMPUTER AND SEE WHAT COME'S UP. SOME OF THE 99'S HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE OVERDRIVE IN THE TRAN'S
  • mmossmmoss Posts: 2
    Hi,

    My F-150 hadn't been run for several weeks. Went out to start it, started right up. Let it run for a minute or two, then went to put into reverse and it died. Put it back into Park, turned the key. "Thunk." "Thunk." The heating/cooling and radio work just fine, so the battery is all right. Cannot move it into Neutral or any other gear. The weather has been in the mid-20's at night and low 30's during the day, and there is moisture under the hood (and in the cab). Could there be some problem with moisture or is this purely electrical--starter, solenoid, etc.???? Anyone have this happen?
  • I am experiencing the same problem(s). Any solutions?
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    "The heating/cooling and radio work just fine, so the battery is all right."
    Not necessarily....accessories draw a very low current so it is normal for accessories to work and the battery be too low to crank the vehicle. Try charging the battery or jump-start vehicle and have battery load tested.
  • I have a 1999 F-350 crew cab. I have a power stroke diesel. I am having a problem with my selecter switch. It seems to be stuck on defrost. When I move the selector switch nothing happens. I thought this system operates on vacuum. My cruise control works. Please help.
  • I have a 2005 F250 4x4 Supercab,company truck, with manual locking hubs & coil springs. I have the same problem you have. Took it to the dealer, they changed the front stabilizer. Still had the problem. Took it back, they said I did not have enough air in the tires. I had 50# in each tire. Ford specs call for 75# in the front & 80# in the back. This makes the truck ride like a tank, but it did fix the problem. This truck is dangerous because if the air pressure ever gets low (such as 50#(& the tires don't look low at that pressure)), the pickup front end will shake violently & uncontrollably ( also veers to the left when this happens). I have been lucky so far as to not hit any on coming trafic. These pickups should be recalled. They are an accident waiting to happen. My company plans on replacing this truck in the next few days.
  • Defrost is the default setting if there's little or no vacuum available. Check the vacuum pump and vacuum lines, especially where they come through the firewall - they tend to get brittle and crack at that point and it's hard to see it. If you have 4x4 shift on the fly, odds are that isn't working either.
  • I have a 99 f350 lost the gage cluster, power windows, 4x4,interior lights,power mirrors. Checked for corrosion found none, checked for bad grounds haven't found anything yet, Replaced the GEM didn't fix a thing.
    Did you ever figure out the problem? Would appreciate any
    help anyone could offer.
  • My 1994 f150 flare side 4x4 5.0 V-8 shakes at 1500 rpm's under load. After I pass the 1500 rpm it smooths out. I can run at the same speed on flat payment not under load and it rides smooth so I know it is not the tires. The tires are brand new and it did it before I put tires on it.
  • Thank you
    I will check it out.
  • seewoseewo Posts: 2
    Have you guys found out what the problem is. I Dropped my 2005 F150 SuperCrew 4 x 4 off at the Dealer today for the same thing exactly. It happened to me twice for just a few seconds and then this morning on the way to the dealer it started again, I was in traffic and couldn't get off the road. It lasted about three blocks. As I slowed from about 50 mph to 10 it quit with a loud clunk. (10,040 miles)
  • seewoseewo Posts: 2
    :sick: Have you guys found out what the problem is. I Dropped my 2005 F150 SuperCrew 4 x 4 off at the Dealer today for the same thing exactly. It happened to me twice for just a few seconds and then this morning on the way to the dealer it started again, I was in traffic and couldn't get off the road. It lasted about three blocks. As I slowed from about 50 mph to 10 it quit with a loud clunk. (10,040 miles)
  • I have recently had a similar problem with my 1989 F350 7.3L Diesel. However, my problem may have been self induced. Truck turned over, but would not start. I plugged in the block heater after killing the batteries. I put a 200amp quick boost on batteries to try to boost it. In the process of trying to start engine, I saw smoke coming up from the starter/solenoid. Truck proceded to start fine, but next day on a cold start all I got was a "click" from the solenoid. So I think I may have fried either a wire to the solenoid, the solenoid, or the starter itself??? I don't think my problem is the batteries,as I drove the truck for in excess of an hour after starting. Anybody run into this similar problem and can elaborate a bit??? Thanks, Bud...
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    If you are lucky the problem may just be dirty/corroded connections at the solenoid but not really likely. I think the problem may be that you let the smoke out....I learned a long time ago that electrical devices must contain smoke in order to function. Once you let the smoke out they no longer work.... :confuse:
  • have no trailer tail lights,factory 4pin and 7pin have no power, all fuses are good. Owners manual is no help.
  • In reply to your problem with your EGR CODE.I had the same problem with my 97 f-150.Its not your EGR valve,to fix your problem pull off your throble body that your EGR bolts to,flip it over there is two holes about 1/4in around that is built up with carbon.Clean out those two holes and bolt back down the throble body and your code and problem will go away.
  • I'm having a similar problem right now . . . did you figure out what the problem is? F350 powerstroke diesel . .
    thanks
    John :(
  • I have a 2000 F250 superduty.It wiil start to warm up to runnig temp and then cool down,and then overheat. What could cause this problem . I have changed the stat and flushed the radiator and still has not helped.
  • Thank you for your time, mac24! I really appreciate it :D
  • What engine do you have?

    Did you just drain radiator or did you "power flush" the whole cooling system. Could still have crud in the engine.

    Also, how's the water pump?
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Just because you changed the thermostat is no guarantee that it isn't defective. It is fairly common to get a defective one out of the box or one that only lasts a few months. I just changed one 4 months ago and now it is stuck in open position... :cry:
This discussion has been closed.