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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • racer55racer55 Posts: 4
    does any one know about fuel pressure regulators? i was wondering if the diaphram goes bad in one if fuel would be pumped into the plenum via vacuum hoses?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    You've got a vaccuum leak somewhere else in the system. When you accelerate the (especially when you really romp on it) the vaccuum pressure drops. Since you've got a leak somewhere else the vaccuum pressure goes to zero. As a result there's not enough left to control the ventilation so the air switches to your feet.
    Go through the rest of the truck and check all the vaccuum lines, and the little t-connectors for brittleness and/or cracks. Vaccuum hose is fairly inexpensive, you can just go through and change them all on a 10 year old vehicle....the truck will probably run a little better too once you find the leak(s).
  • fromjavafromjava Posts: 1
    I just purchased a F150 5.4l it has less than 1400 miles on it, my problem startyed the first night with noise from the rear they said just bring it on Satarday so i did,they said come back later we don not have enough techs so i did but now they said this is normal operating noise and will not give me any documentation that i have brought the car in. I need help
  • runjimrunjim Posts: 4
    I would go straight to the showroom, start asking for the owner or manager, describe the issue in a louder and louder voice, until they decide to help you.
    Just my 2 cents.... good luck.
  • chelseechelsee Posts: 2
    When you go before the board state that you want a buyback and not a replacement.
    They bought my 1999 Expedition back in 2000 but I agreed to the replacement this time and then found out they wanted me to pay manufactor's listed price without the rebate for a new truck till i went to the State Attorneys office who got me a better deal with Ford. Try the Arbitration board or your State Attorney's Office first. Good Luck.
  • ajever1ajever1 Posts: 7
    As long as your vehicle is under warranty, you can go to any Ford dealership of your choice and it will be covered! I would suggest a new dealership & contact Ford directly and complain about the un-professional service (or lack of) that you received! I would also suggest that each time you bring your vehicle in for service that you receive some type of service authorization form...with the complaint listed! Good Luck!
  • lucasredlucasred Posts: 2
    Any thoughts appreciated. 1994 F250 5.8L While driving at 25-30 mph the truck died. No spark coming out of coil. I replaced the coil - nothing. I replaced the ICM - nothing. I replaced the stator/pickup in distributor - nothing. I finally replaced the EEC-IV engine computer - still no spark coming out of coil at secondary (spark plug) wire. I do have power to the coil during start at + terminal. Pretty much ran every test I could find in chilton manual. Everything seemed to test out OK, but no spark coming out of coil. Any ideas?
    Thanks
    Jim
  • havehadithavehadit Posts: 7
    Have driven 103 miles since replacing the MLPS with no problem. Apparently this was the problem. Total cost $143.00. (for mvhammy and runjim and others with a similar problem. Ford issued a TSB on the problem in 1995. You can find any TSB at www.nhtsa.dot.gov/. HAVEHADIT
  • jroachjroach Posts: 1
    Hello Everyone!

    I too experienced the same thing Tom did with his vibrating truck. Mine is an 04 F-150, 5.3L, 19,000 Miles . I have both types of the vibration that is going around. I have the 48-58 MPH constant finger tingle vibration from the steering wheel. It has been back to the dealer 4 times for this type(balanced tires, rotated driveshaft, added counter-balance weight, etc.). No improvement yet. Vibration is worse under load.

    The second vibration is the insidious one as it is intermittent. First appeared in Jan of 05. Very cold day so I forgave it. Two months later it does it again. No check engine light or codes found by the service dept when returned with description of mysterious vibration. It comes on at odd times and lasts for about 2-3 miles. When I stop the truck and shut it off and restart it the problem goes away. It is starting to do it about once a week. I think this truck is going back to Ford. No problems with the dealership or service as they are trying to fix this truck. I can't fault them because they did not design or build this vehicle, Ford did.

    If anyone else has this type of problem please post it so that we can find out how wide spread this is.

    Thanks,
    Jack
  • rich3457rich3457 Posts: 1
    Have you had it back to the dealer? I am lookinmg to buy the same model with moon roof.
  • tgarrett3tgarrett3 Posts: 3
    Thanks I'll check out the lines again, I looked them over and don't see any that looked cracked or broken. It's got a pretty simple vacuum system. That's whats got me stumped. There are 2 solenoids in the vacuum diagram called air D and air B, Do you know what these are?
  • fordmechfordmech Posts: 2
    The hose is a vent hose to prevent pressure buildup that happens as the diff lube expands from heat. The hose will mount to the body or frame above the diff as high as possible with enough flex room for full suspension movement, check for blockage (hose, nipple) also disconnect from diff connection, run a wire thru far enough to make sure there is no blockage. I use a small tie wrap around the hose at the diff fitting for a good seal at the diff. The valve at the top of the hose keeps water from entering if you are forging a creek/river, check that also. Should allow air out, nothing in. Blockage in the vent will cause diff lube to leak thru the outer seals, soak the brake material, must be replaced. Hope this helps. Woot
  • fordmechfordmech Posts: 2
    Dam that's a tuff one, I fixed 10 of them. 5.8 or 5.0 doesn't matter. Is the idle smooth or sometimes rough? Lots of problems with EGR valves sticking open somewhat, vacume pump can check that, remove and clean, or just remove the vacume line, while the idle is smooth, plug the vacume feed line, tell me if there is a difference. There is also specific routing patern for ignition wires. Hope this helps, Woot
  • tgarrett3tgarrett3 Posts: 3
    wpalkowski Thanks a bunch You were right. The vacuum hose going through the firewall to the vacuum valve that closes when you go to max air was rotten inside the plastic wire holder. I was able to pull it through and replace it. It took care of the problem Thanks again Tom
  • leif7151leif7151 Posts: 1
    I have had my 1999 F-250 in the local Ford dealership for a week now and they cannot figure out what is wrong with my truck. The symtoms are: Running realing rough as if the engine were about to stall due to flooding, smoke from the tail pipe with a rich smell of fuel not being efficiently burned. The dealer has identified he beleives it is some type of short and has been on the phone with the tech reps from ford with no luck so far. Any ideas?? I bought this truck used and I currently live in Lousiana but the truck came from Canada and had the heater coil plug in for cold weather. Thanks
  • Does anyone know what Ford vehicle radios can be put in a 2000 F350 Super Duty with just plug and play with the available wiring harness. I want to replace an AM/FM Cassette with an AM/FM Dual Media CD/Cassette radio. Does anyone know where I can go on the internet to find a compatibility chart for Ford vehicles? Thanks in advance.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    www.crutchfield.com - they have charts to show what radios will fit in the vehicle and can also sell you wiring adapter that plug into trucks's wiring harness to allow quick and easy radio hookup.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    :shades: You're welcome! :) I had similar problem a few years back w/ my F-150.
    Sometimes the simple stuff will make you nuts.
  • vizerdrixvizerdrix Posts: 3
    I hope someone can help me with a problem my hubby and I are having. We just (yesterday) had our '86 F150 tested for the Ontario Drive Clean Emmisions, and it took the mechanic most of the day to get it to pass, on the curb-side idle CO2 test. To do this, he had to play around with the carb and get the fuel mixture so lean, the poor truck didn't have any power! Legally, he wasn't allowed to change the settings afterwards, but he showed us how to readjust the carb, which we started working on. Took it for a drive last night, and it still needed a bit more adjusting. So this morning, hubby inspected the fuel filter and put it back on, everything looked fine. Adjusted the mixture a bit more, then he took it around the block for a test drive. Didn't make it to the end of the street! The carb was leaking fuel at the base, and spewing fuel from the top! Also, it was noticed that the gasket from the air filter compartment was missing after we picked up our truck, and we thought it might somehow have accidently fallen in, but we can't see it in the carb... Any suggestions?
  • vizerdrixvizerdrix Posts: 3
    Sometimes, a hammer will solve the worlds problems. :) Turns out the float was stuck, and a few light taps with a hammer loosened it up, and the truck is running fine again. Next question: how do I prevent this from happening again? Will I need to take the carb apart and do something with the float, or should I just make sure there is always a hammer available in the truck? ;)

    Thanks!

    ...chris
This discussion has been closed.