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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • tlintontlinton Posts: 1
    I just took my new F150 supercab back to the service department for this very same issue. I have the 20in performance wheels and tires on mine and at about 65 mph I get a vibration in the steering wheel. I will email if it's gets resolved in a few days
  • nokey, I have a 99 f150 supercab and I am in the same situation. Did you find a key, and is yours six pedaled flower shape/design?
  • There is no point blaming someone how it happened. My truck is now park at my house after driving approx. 25 miles. The truck was nearly empty when filled with gas. Apparently in the way home the vehicle struggle a bit making it uphill. I just turned the engine, you can hear the engine running rough but not so bad yet. What should I do, drain it? call a local mechanic? I don't want to call the dealer in case other future problems occur, my warranty might be in jeoperdy. Thanks in advance for your help.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Ouch! Don't run the truck any more. Diesel engines use the fuel to lubricate various parts, Gasoline doesn't have this "lubricity" and if you run it long enough it'll ruin your fuel injectors. $$ :cry:

    Dealers aren't cheap when this happens, I've heard them charging as much as $600-$700 to fix this and then to add insult to injury they charge you an "Environmental fee" to dispose of the gasoline. You can fix this yourself, but it's still gonna cost you
    a bit of money, and fair amount of time.

    You've obviously got to get the gas out of the tank. You're gonna have to get a bunch of 5 gallon gas containers to hold the fuel. Don't drain it onto the ground, you can blow yourself and the truck up. Don't dump it either. You can save the gas and run it in another vehicle or save it for your lawn mower.

    You won't be able to siphon the tank out because our rigs have a "Rollover Valve" that prevents fuel from pouring out after an accident. It blocks a siphon hose. One way to drain the tank without dropping the heavy fuel tank: you can disconnect the outlet hose from the fuel pump, attach a piece of hose to the pump and run it into your gas cans. Turn on the key, the pump will run for about 20 seconds then you'll have to turn key off, then on again. Repeat as needed till empty. It's TEDIOUS, but will eventually empty the tank.

    Put the fuel line back on. Now drain the fuel filter via the water separator valve. Add a few gallons of diesel to the tank. Pressurize the system, drain and cycle the key until only diesel is coming out. Now put a new fuel filter on it. Refill it with fresh DIESEL. Add a healthy dose of Diesel Fuel Lubricant to the tank. Run the truck and cross your fingers. After a few hundred miles I would change the fuel filter again.

    My buddy did this a couple years ago and has had no problems down the road with injectors failing, but every truck and circumstance is different. Good luck and hope it works out in the cheapest way for you.
  • You may need to change out your EGR Valve and clean the tubes to increase your mileage.
  • I too suffer from noisy, irritating ticks and rattles that come from the new F150. The steering wheel tick that you are experiencing, I had also. What I found that worked was to lay upside down in the driver s seat and look up in to the steering column. About half way up the column is a collar . If I can remember correctly it is metal or plastic and needs to be repositioned. Twist it a little and it should fix it.
  • vader77vader77 Posts: 2
    At highway speeds, my 99 F150 4X4, when in overdrive (obviously at low RPM's) seems like it's misfiring (almost like it's running out of gas). When I turn the overdrive off, the problem goes away. I've tried spark plugs, cleaned out the K&N filter, and tried fuel injector cleaner. Any ideas before i bend over at the dealer?
  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,495
    DO NOT START THAT ENGINE AGAIN.

    Have the truck towed to the dealer and explain what has happened. They will have to drop the tank as well as flush the fuel lines... you also need to have the injectors and pump checked.

    kcram - Pickups Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • oldrayoldray Posts: 1
    My check engine light comes on and with a reader I get "bad heater on Bank 1 Sensor 2". Does anyone know which sensor of the 4 on the exhaust system is this specific sensor.
  • i have a 01 cc w/7.3 a/t 4x4, the interior lights,4x4,cruise,pwr/windows,pwr/mirrors quit working, i had the gem replaced at the dealer, but still not working, any ideas?
  • dorsey1dorsey1 Posts: 1
    My 2,000 F-150 left driver door window doesn't work. Rest of windows are fine. Replaced relay in fuse box and it was fine for two weeks, maybe total of six uses. Now it isn't. hy would a relay keep going out?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Have you looked at a manual to see if these systems all have one thing in common? Could very well be one of those large, high capacity relay/maxi-fuses under the hood. Or a fusible link somewhere in the wiring harness could be the culprit.
  • I picked up my F150 two weeks ago. After 70 miles on the road I realized I had problems. There are two problems: 1. a constant vibration like I am driving over a cobblestone road not matter at what speed. 2. if I accelerate between 55-60 mph, it bogs down and vibrates almost like a motor mount is lose. I returned my truck for repairs three days after I drove it off the lot. The dealership balanced the tires and ran diagnostics on the engine. I have no evidence they ever road tested it, and they never called me to verify that the problem was solved. I now have 3,000 miles on the vehicle and the vibration is no better. After a 600 mile trip this weekend, I found my body still shaking three hours after stepping out of the truck! Coincidently, I met another F150 owner at a gas pump on my trip, and he had experienced a similar problem with his 2004 off road version. He said he had tires replaced, drive shaft replaced, and other items, but still has the problem. I don't have the time or patience to continue taking my truck back to the dealership for repairs that may not solve the problem. I traded a great 2000 Lariat for the 2005 version. At this point I am plenty sorry for that decision.
  • grammergrammer Posts: 3
    I BOUGHT A 2001 FORD F250 5.4 V8 WITH 50000 MILES, I NOTICED A FUNNY NOISE WHEN IT GOES INTO LOCK UP. I CAN ONLY DESCRIBE IT AS A FLUTTER. I CAN'T REALLY TELL IF ITS COMING FORM THE TRANS OR MOTOR OR EXHAUST. THERE IS NO LOSS IN POWER OR NO ABNORMAL SHIFTING THAT I HAVE NOTICED. I'D LIKE TO KNOW WHAT IT MIGHT BE BEFORE I TAKE IT IN. YOU KNOW HOW EXPENSIVE IT IS FOR THEM JOKERS AT THE DEALERSHIP TO DIANOSE A PROBLEM! IF ITS NOT A MECHANICAL PROBLEM I JUST DEAL WITH IT BUT IF ITS SOMETHING THAT CAN CAUSE FURTHER DAMAGE I RATHER GET IT FIXED NOW.\
    THANKS
  • If it was the relay, none of the windows would work, which narrows it down to either the switch or the motor. If you don't have the means to check either, I think the switch is cheaper.
  • paintmanpaintman Posts: 23
    i put in an aftermarket device on my turbo, it did give me more power the pickup speed is noticebly smoother and much faster, i am hoping for the 2-3 mpg increase they claim i'll get,. has anyone ever noticed any problems from doing this?
  • tired2tired2 Posts: 1
    MY DAUGHTER HAS A 2000 F-150 WITH TRITON 4.6 ENGINE,AUTO TRANS. SHE HAS HAD THE TRUCK AT LEAST 15 TIMES WHILE DRIVING ENGINE WILL STOP AND STEARING LOCKS UP.ONCE SHE GETS TO A STOP ENGINE WILL RESTART WITH OUT PROBLEM PROBABLY AS MUCH AS A MONTH OR MORE BETWEEN PROBLEM. BEEN TO FORD THEY ARE SCRATCHING THEIR HEADS.IM CONCERNED THIS COULD HAPPEN DURING A HIGH SPEED TURN AN CAUSE HER TO LOOSE CONTROLE OR WORSE.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    i put in an aftermarket device on my turbo, it did give me more power.............

    What was this unnamed aftermarket device?
  • i have a 78 ford f-150 its only 1 wheel drive. i can't find a pozy traction kit for it. anyone know where to look?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Not a real problem, but something to think about..... Automaker design the engines such that they make lower power, but they'll supposedly be trouble free for a long time. When you raise the engine's power output, then something's gotta give. Many of the "aftermarket devices" can make your exhaust gases run much hotter. This can cause the turbo to get too hot and and may result in premature bearing failure. ($$$) To play it safe you may want to put in an aftermarket exhaust gas temperature gauge called a Pyrometer. That way if the turbo is getting too hot you'll at least know about it and can adjust your driving accordingly.
This discussion has been closed.