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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Get under the truck and look at the rear differential. There's a small metal tag attached to it. The ratio is stamped on there. eg. 373, 410, 430.

    373 => 3.73:1 ratio - lowest torque + somewhat better mileage
    410 => 4.10:1 ratio
    430 => 4.30:1 ratio - highest torque + somewhat lower mileage
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Posts: 833
    twocar,

    is your F150 a 4x4?
    It seems the vibration problem is isolated to the 4x4 version of the F150 ....

    is that right?
  • twocartwocar Posts: 95
    Yes, it is an '04 F-150 SuperCrew 4x4 Lariat. And as I indicated last week...it's been a week and no more shuddering. I think it's fixed! :D
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Axle Codes are also on the Door Jam Sticker.

    What year truck do you have?

    2007 F-350 has a 4.10 standard..lost of dealers order them with 3.73 limited slips as an option or the X3L axle.

    Chances are you already have the 3.73 so no changes is really available.

    You either have:

    X37 nonlimited slip 3.73
    X3L limted slip 3.73
    X41 nonlimited 4.10
    X4N limited 4.10
    X4L limted 4.3 (only available with V-10 or diesal with dual rear wheels.

    Mark.
  • I dont know if this will get to you but what the heck. I have the same problem and Ford is making money of our misery. I am at glennlinokc@yahoo.com if you need to know more. :lemon:
  • marsh1marsh1 Posts: 1
    Hey guys... new to the forum, Im have the same problems 04 f-150 4x4 with the vibration along with the tires wearing on insides and out of the front tires... very disgusted with my truck after reading some of the post on here and other sites. sounds like i have to fight with ford to try to get the problems fixed.
  • david77david77 Posts: 2
    Sorry for the long time since my reply but thank you I'll check it out.
  • pilot4me2pilot4me2 Posts: 2
    How did you get ford to replace your truck.
    Alan Schmidt
    apilot4me@bellsouth.net
  • dheyinkdheyink Posts: 2
    ABS light now stays on. Have 114K miles and now when I start the truck, it will come on and then go off like normal. In reverse it stays off. Within 100 ft. going forward it comes on and stays on.
  • tkruegertkrueger Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2005 F-150 and I just now put 8,000 miles, so there's not a whole lot of miles just yet. My question to you is, at about 40-45 mph just slightly swirving to miss debry in the road my rear drivers side just caught the median wall, the tire, hub everything snapped right off the rear axle. I find this just slightly irregular. has anyone else heard of this kind of problems?
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Yep, heard of it....it's called a wreck. When moving objects meet immoveable objects thing tend to break
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I can understand you being a little miffed at the loss of your wheel and hub, but try to comprehend the forces involved.

    Think of the mass of your vehicle travelling down the highway at 45mph, attached to which is a wheel spinning at high rpm, not just with the energy of rolling at 45mph but being driven by a powerful V8 with the power further stepped up by a series of gears in the transmission and rear axle.

    Try to imagine what happens when all that kinetic energy impacts a solid immovable object (the median wall), and it's not too hard to see that something had to give. It's likely that if the axle hadn't snapped, the shock loading would have progressed through to the transmission and done serious damage there.

    Yes, it's slightly irregular, but so was your treatment of the vehicle.
  • dheyinkdheyink Posts: 2
    Ok, first the ABS the other day, today, the overdrive light on shift lever flashes and then I lose my speedo. Drove a ways, light went off and speedo started working again.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I guess it just went from being a potential ABS issue, to a possible loose or high resistance electrical connection.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Solicitation of any kind, especially for class action lawsuits, is specifically prohibited by the Membership Agreement.

    It is also extremely dangerous to post your name and address in a message - such posts will also be deleted for your own protection.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Posts: 833
    2,000 miles after buying my new '04 Fl50, I noticed my rotors were warped - I could tell by the way my steering wheel would vibrate when braking on a down hill.

    Ford turned(lathed) the rotors and it seemed to work from there. But now at 20,000 miles and still under warranty the rotor warp has returned.

    I thought I heard from some in this forum long ago that Ford realized that the rotors on the early '04's were not big enough for the new model and they got their rotors replaced.

    After 20,000 miles is it reasonable for me to have the rotors replaced given the history of this part?

    thanks for the opinion.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Seems reasonable to me as well, though who knows if your dealer will see it that way.

    Incidentally, machining brake rotors will always shorten the time until they warp again, because removing material reduces the mass and therefore its ability to dissipate heat.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Consider your driving habits. Are you waiting to the last second before you being to brake? Do you hold your hot brake pads against the rotors while you sit at a stop light?

    In all my life I never warped a set a rotors. Yet my dad is constantly warping his rotors He drives as described above.

    Mark.
  • sts73sts73 Posts: 1
    Hi - For our business we have a Ford F-550 7.3L diesel. It has trouble starting after it sits for a couple days, like over a weekend. We have had it in and out of repair shops but no one can diagnose the problem. When you go to start it, it cranks over but won't start right away. Eventually it will start. The injector lookes oil pressure. It doesn't smoke excessively, runs normal, and has lots of power and the engine seems to be fine. Anyone have any ideas that might help us fix this problem? Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,619
    I don't know this truck in particular, but if it uses a glow plug system for starting, that's certainly where I'd look first.

    MODERATOR

  • rocky29rocky29 Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 ford f 150 lariat 4x4 5.4 v8 wheni start the truck it shuts off i will have to gas it then drive it it will stay on but when running for awhile it wont shut off ill turn it on it will start right up with out shutting off but when sitting for a long time it will not start it starts then shuts off with a sec or 2 can some one please help thank you from ny rock
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Just to let everyone know...

    Opened a new discussion that will be exclusively for the vibration issues of the current-design F150 - click here to add your comments. The existing posts from this discussion will be moved there (give me a little time, there's a LOT of them).

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Good call. I know there's a vibe problem, you know there's a vibe problem, most of us here know there's a vibe problem............now, how long will it take for Ford to accept that they have a vibe problem?
  • scubarashscubarash Posts: 4
    i have replaced everything on the truck that is fuel related from the pump to filter to fuel pump relays to fuel pressure regulator but it still does the same thing. The fuel pumps run for a long time before shutting off and you cannot crank the truck until they stop. Any Ideas? Please help me before i waste any more money on this truck. :confuse:
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Since you say you have more than one fuel pump, I'm assuming you have an older F-series pickup - one with dual tanks.

    Have you actually measured the fuel pressure in the system?
    The pumps should shut off within a few seconds once you turn on the ignition key once the system reaches operating pressure. The pumps then resume once the engine is running. Since the pumps are running for a long time, something's not letting the pressure build up.

    You don't say what year it is. Some of the dual tank arrangements had a pump in each fuel tank, and then a Hi-pressure pump in the main line to the engine. Others just had the two tank mounted fuel pumps and a check valve/switch gizmo.

    Possible you could have a bad check valve which would just force fuel back into the other tank. (Do you tanks really hiss when you open the gas caps? Do they ) Or a bad hi-pressure pump.
  • scubarashscubarash Posts: 4
    This is a 1990 model f-150. I have checked both of the of the fuel pumps and replaced the back tank pump. There is no high pressure fuel pump anywhere that i can find. The fuel pressure is fine had that checked. I have also replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pump relays and the fuel filter. I have checked the li es and the fuel is returning to the appropriate tank. Any other ideas? I was told that it might be an ignition switch is this possible? Since that is the only thing else that controls the running ofthe fuel pumps. And also could it be possible that the gas caps are not sealing properly? Seems far fetched but just wondering. Thank you for your help. Steve :confuse:
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    We are going to begin a de-emphasis of this discussion as the "be-all end-all" when you have an issue. If you go up one level to the Ford F-Series Group, you will see quite a few new discussions that are focusing on various areas of the F-Series trucks. We would like you to start using these and we will hopefully save this "Problems & Solutions" area for things not listed. As time allows, I'll be moving posts from here to the new discussions to give them some foundation.

    If you think there is a particular subject that doesn't yet have a separate discussion and should, let me know! :)

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • ncowgerncowger Posts: 1
    :confuse: :cry: hi there,we have this 96 f250 superduty powerstroke and you can start it up and it will run for a few minutes and dies we have changed the cam sensor,icm,checked all wiring for shorting out and nothing solved,the idm relay keeps clicking and when it clicks it wont start? please can someone help me.
  • tmichtmich Posts: 1
    My 2002 f-150 6cyl. auto just developed a miss today. I drove it to work with no problems and then it sat through downpours all day. I had no problem starting it after work, but I noticed it had a dead miss. I think One cyl. is't firing. I now have 70k hwy. miles on it and I had to replace 2 vacumn modules to get my ck. eng. light to go out for inspection. That was 4 mos. ago and everything has been fine until this afternoon. I have been reading about spark plug problems on this page, Could it really be that simple. When do I need to change them realistically? I haven't done anything except change the oil on time and the air filter once a year. They told me when I bought it that I wouldn't need a tune-up for 100k miles. Did I dream this?
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Posts: 833
    I got my rotors replaced today under warranty - new pads too, so I'm a happy Ford customer today.

    The new rotors have a different metal alloy that can handle the weight of the new F150 better. Ford upgraded this part on later '04 models from what I understand.

    I'm really a conservative driver, but do occasionally pull a light pop up trailer to the Sieras - only 1,200 pounds.
This discussion has been closed.