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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    have a tech sniff the radiator neck with an exhaust gas analyzer. if it lights up, you are off the road until the head gasket or whatever is fixed. at least you have caught this early enough so the engine probably hasn't been wrecked.
  • I am new to this and to diesels.I tried to let the water out of my 93 7.3 turbo F350 and when I turned the valve on the bottom of the filter I got nothing. No fuel and no water. Is this normel or do I have a problem? Thank you for any help you can give. Dan
  • SEEMS TO BURN CLEAN OUT THE PIPE AFTER WARM UP,BUT NO WHITE SMOKE,USES ABOUT A QUART OF COOLANT TO 50 MILES. RADIATOR HAS DIESEL ODER.HOW DO YOU DETERMINE WHICH BANK IT IS COMING FROM.?
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    don't know, but think compression checks of the cylinders would show which bank most likely has the leak. problem with that thinking is, you have two identical gaskets with the same installation techniques installed... and you only want to replace the one that failed right now? do 'em both and don't have the other one fail is the way I'd think.

    of course, I grew up a broadcast brat, and if a module in a quad videotape failed, they shotgunned out all the similar parts... ie, if a bypass capacitor opened up, and you lost $8000 in revenue in this newscast from not getting the commercials on, how ya gonna explain the next capacitor going out next month when you had the chance to replace all of those parts at once. you lose the spots, you have to make them up, and that costs you the time spots for a second bunch. way far cheaper in your time and pain to do both head gaskets, check both heads out... you will save some labor from tearing it all down to get there, retiming the engine, and putting all the bolt-ons back on after doing the job.
  • MG,
    Thanks for the info on the gas tank neck. Never thought about that. Though the gas gauge always seems to read full when I fill it. It's pretty consistent at the mileage that I've described. With the Gibson, I've improved about a mile per gallon. But, like I said, it's going to take some time to recover the cost of the exhaust. I'd only get it if you plan on keeping the truck for a lot of years. I'm sorry to hear that you're not happy with it. I try to keep in mind that my trucks 300 hp is not geared to take off like my mustang GT was. But, I've never had any problems hauling around the 5-6 thousand lb. trailer that I often used.
    The Gibson exhaust, I got on-line from an outfit in Conneticut. Wish I could remember the name. custometrucks.com? i got the single pipe ($400). I like it, but it's not going to produce a big crack when you hit the accelerator. If you want more of that then go to the daul exhaust. Took four days to receive in NW Pennsylvania. Much nicer thant the original system. I would recommend the stainless. Again, if you're keeping the truck for a few years.
  • MG
    Only paid $300 for the exhaust. I added some other things that put my bill up to around $400. Sorry.
  • Thanks for taking to time to write back.
    As I recently realized the oil pan is only the beginning of my problems. I purchased the truck from the village DPW and though it was a 92 it only has 47K miles on it.

    When I went to pick it up, the truck wouldn't start, and determined it was the started. What a chore, the bolts were rustier and we had to cut the bolts.

    Of course after we solved that problem we drove it around the block only to realize the transmission cooler line is leaking.

    The oil pan seems like a big job, but my real concern is that I or someone else will have a real hard time taking the old bolts off, and lord only know what that will lead to.

    Thanks again.

    JT
  • I just bought a 94 f150 :lemon: and have had nothing but problems. Now i'm having what seems to be a fuel pump problem. It runs great in town, but when I get it about 35-40 miles out on the highway, the check engine light comes on for a few seconds, then goes off. That's when the problems start. It starts stuttering and dying like its not getting any, or enough, gas. I slam on the gas, and everything works again for about 30-45 seconds then the cycle starts over again, almost like clock work. Normally I would say it was the fuel pump getting hot and not wanting to work. But the thing is I have two tanks and two fuel pumps (one in each of course). It doesn't matter what tank is selected, the exact same problem occurs. I have changed the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator, but no better. Does anyone have any ideas? I would greatly appreciate any help I could get. Thanks.
  • mghmgh Posts: 43
    This is a typical symptom of the Oxygen sensor failure. Buy the original equipment from Motorcraft and reset the engine codes in the truck. You may want to check the codes first just to make sure this is the problem.

    Good luck!
  • I am new to this message board and appologize if this is not the correct forum but I need help please.

    I just started experiencing acceleration problems with my 2003 F250 SD 6.0 Diesel. I am not sure if it is a TURBO problem, Transmission problem or some type of electrical module etc. It does not happen all the time though. The symptom is that when I for example go to pass someone the RPM's increase but there is NO power. The speed of the vehicle SLOWLY increases. Does not seem like it is down shifting or that the TURBO is not engaging. Anyone hear of or experience similar problems? Vehicle has 39,000 miles. I am also NEW to Diesels.

    Note: Really noticed it yesterday morning. However Yesterday afternoon when leaving work it operated just fine. Plenty of power. Again this morning, NO power and same problem experienced.
  • jdnhjdnh Posts: 1
    I have a experienced the exact same scenario with my hubs.
    In addition they are poorly marked and the locked/auto position indicators
    are not visible.

    Hub is now making clicking noise while in auto position.

    I have a 2001 F350 SD crew.

    have you had any progress with FORD?

    Are there after market hubs available an if so where and how much?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    If engine rpm increases but there is no matching increase in forward speed it would seem to indicate a transmission problem, possibly a slipping clutch or torque converter.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Going to manual, rather than auto, hubs keeps things simple and reliable.

    Warn F350 SD Hubs

    image
  • I have a 2003 6litre and I have noticed the same power problem since about 65K and dealer is of no help to me. What I have found out is that I'll warm the thing up and it will be up to temparature and it will still have no power-the trick is to turn off ignition and restart vehicle and you have all your power back. It doesn't fix the issue but it helps. I think it is a faulty sensor with the turbo pressure or something-sticking at cold startup and doesn't follow temparature unless it's reset. I haven't had time to take it to the dealer and show them this since I found a temp fix and it doesn't show up a fault with the computer. Some expert out there on turbos? Mapping sensor or something?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I have a 2003 6litre and I have noticed the same power problem...........

    If there's a lack of power and the engine bogs down it could well be related to your turbo's blow-off valve, among other things of course.

    However, in threefoot's case, engine speed increases but there's no corresponding increase in speed or power, indicating that the transmission isn't translating that speed increase into anything useful.

    Sounds like yours is a different problem, though no less annoying! ;)
  • I have recently aquired a 2002 F-350 superduty CC LB 5.4L. 165,000km 4x4
    I have an exhaust leak at the rear of both manifolds- bad studs or whatever- needs to be remedied.
    Now yes this is under powered unit as it is but for what I need for it is fine (besides my '03 f250 work diesel is problematic enough with warranty) but I still could use a power boost. What is the ideal exhaust setup for this thing now that I need to work it anyway? I do not know if my manifolds are cracked and junk but for possible alternatives I've been looking at aftermarket headers and I see they have them for 5.4L all over the place for excursions f-150,250 etc but having difficulties sourcing them for 2002 f-350s.

    My question is-what is the ideal setup for this or at least adequate?
    - Will the F250 header setup fit a 350 with no serious mods? -(remember 4x4)
    If so, do I do headers with the Y pipe or pitch it and run dual to the back- with just the catalytic converter-no muffler. What could I expect with fuel economy? Will the hp increase by 10-15% as headers normally go? -does it affect sensors/ screw up computer etc?
    -Should I just keep the stock setup and as I know I could spend 500$ and reprogram the computer altogether but I ain't loaded.

    Do they make aftermarket K&N air intake filters for these as well- trouble finding those too (small town syndrome) any problems with computer/sensors also?
  • annoying is right however my symptoms seem similar in the sense that the engine does rev up not necessarily bogs down (if you mean like flooding or something)--Its like it almost has not enough air or something. It is slow shifting in reference to the tranny but I figure it's because it take so long to hit the shift limit or whatever. Then it all goes normal with a reset. Could this still be the the blow off valve as a possibility? Is there any other sensors that I could as the dealer to look into as a possibilty along with the blowoff valve?

    Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The good thing about your problem is that it's repeatable, and that restarting clears it, which should make it easy to analyse what's happening while it happens. At this stage I'd be inclined to let a reputable dealer with a good diesel specialist check it out first before making suggestions.
  • I agree, it sounds like your symptoms are very similar. I took the truck out this afternoon at lunch time ... ran great. No problems. Seems to coorespond somehow with either cooler engine/air temps or perhaps more moisture in air in the morning or something. I'm no mechanic but seems electronic.
  • Good call mgh. It was the O2 sensor. Unfortunately I did replace the fuel pump before I read your reply to my post. So I guess I won't have to replace that for a while. Funny how a $40 problem turned into over $300 to fix. But at least I know my fuel system in and out. Thanks a lot for the help.
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