Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • My 1997 F150 4WD developed a vibration when going down the road at all speeds. I thought it was the U-joints. The mechanic did one last check before replacing the U-joints. He jacked up the rear and put it in gear and watched the driveshaft. The driveshaft was slightly bent/warped. It was easy to see while it was spinning. He straightened the driveshaft for a minimal fee and completely corrected the problem.

  • rileswrilesw Posts: 2
    I'm having the exact problem as you describe. Any ideas what to do next?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Checking under the hood shows no signs of the engine being hot.

    If severe overheating is detected the engine goes into a 'limp home' mode and will throw a code, i.e. intermittent firing and a 'check engine' light. A faulty temp sensor will produce exactly the same result.

    So, is your engine really overheating, or does it just say it is? :shades:
  • Hey Todd, I recently upgraded from a 255/70/16 t a 285/70/16 and i had the worry of my differentials being messed up from having larger tires. I just checked my rear differentials to see if any "teeth" were chips or missing. All checked out O.K. but thats just another check i'd do, just to be on the safe side.
  • I have a 98 For-150 4.6L V8 Triton. I was wondering on how i could boost up performance for some more horsepower or gasmilage. i already got a K&N air intake, Flowermaster Exhaust system. Yeah yeah i know most of you are thinking that i should look into a 5.4L Ha Ha, but hey i only make minimum wage. But im looking along the lines of a super/turbo charger. or something along the lines of that. All ideas are open. Thanks
  • rileswrilesw Posts: 2
    Mine appears to be hot. The upper radiator hose is pressurized while the temp gauge is high. When temp starts to fall, the pressure is gone from the hose. I'm going to replace the thermostat again as it appears that it isn't opening properly.
  • Motor tries to turn over, then runs a few seconds, then dies. Engine returns no error codes. CPS is brand new. Fuel pump is new. Fuel filter has been changed. Acts like there is no or insufficient fuel.

    Please advise?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Acts like there is no or insufficient fuel................or air in the fuel?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Adding a reworked head, cam, and fuel system to your uprated intake and exhaust will give an appreciable boost, as will a super or turbocharger, though that will cost a lot more.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Going up a size in tire won't chip or otherwise damage the teeth in your diff.
  • Both tanks are full. Vehicle runs then dies. Subisquent attempts to start meet with failure, until after several minutes to an hour.

    I suspect the tank switching solenoid, as I have checked all the solenoids under the hood, and all are good.

    Is there a way I can determine if that is indeed the problem?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Air in the fuel isn't necessarily a sign that one tank is empty. It can be drawn in from a very tiny leak in a connection. Also, because air is being drawn in it doesn't mean that fuel will be leaking out.
  • I have a 2003 Ford F-150 that has been running great. Recently, with the extended rainy season, I have been experiencing electronics problems. I came out one of those rainy mornings and my truck battery was dead. I charged it up and then noticed that even with the key out, my fan blower was running, I was getting a clicking from the ABS, my audio (CD player) was clicking away...etc... I started the truck and it seemed to run fine. It sat that day and started that night when I left work. About 20 mins into the drive home, it started to beep (5 beeps then stop) and repeated this several times. The beep sounds like a truck backing up kind of tone). No indication of anything else going on. At some point it just stopped. I got home that night and turned it off and it seemed to be fine (nothing running). So I drove it for another 2 weeks without problems. Then the rain came again. Two days into the rain, I had the exact same problem... I came out and the battery was dead. Charged it up and noticed that things were running even though I had it shut off and the key out.

    any idea what is going on here? Is this going to cost me a lot of money to fix? Should I extend my warranty??

  • I just picked up my first ford truck a 2000 f150 supercab. I have only had it a week and this evening when we were going out to dinner is started to shake when I was at a red light. When I hit the gas it shook even more. I was just wondering what could have happend someone told me mabey something with the spark plug and that it might be running on 7 cylinders instead of 8. If any of you have any advise it would be greatly appreciated.
  • My oil dipstick will not come out of the tube in my 97f150. 4.2L .It seems it has got stuck somehow. Do I drop the oil pan and look and see what's up.
    This truck is used and the original dipstick was broken off at the tip when I got it.
    I finally got put a replacement dipstick today,that came from a wrecking yard.
    I put this new dipstick in 1 time and read it. The level was ok. Then I put it in again and now it will not come out unless I pull hard. I,m afraid something will break. Thanks for any input.. I am a truck novice
  • lenrlenr Posts: 13
    Just realized that the fluid is gone in my F-150 5.4 with 4R100. The dealer flushed and drained about 10,000 mi ago. They had to add an adapter to drain out all old fluid. This adapter leaked inititally and was tightened by the dealer. It may have cut loose again0\--only this time it was a gusher. It probably leaked completely empty over a 6 mi drive. What should I expect for damage, or have the dealer check? What are the odds of hidden damage that shows up 40,000 mi from now? The truck has 45,000 mi, and the change out was done back at 35,900 mi.
  • I just purchased a f250 super duty and found that Ford changed the pedal to elec. not cable. now when ever I go over rough roads I can't keep the pedal still and the engine surges to the pedal movement. is there a cure for this?
  • I have had this problem since it had 75,000 miles. It has this oil pressure gauge problem. I bought this card at 33,000 miles off of the Ford B Lot. This is like an Employee Program Vehicle. My impression is that it was not taken care of. The oil changes probably did not happen regularly.

    This first problem surfaced itself, and I took it to a dealer. The dealer listened to me. The gauge would fluctuate for awhile, and then go to nothing. I would immediately turn the engine off. I had it towed. The service station dropped the pan, and cleaned the screen. Things would be great. By the way, The first thing I did was at the oil station. They did an engine flush. NEVER EVER DO ONE OF THOSE!!!.

    After they dropped the pan, they cleaned the screen, and things were fine for the next year and a half. Same problem, took it to the same place, they checked it out. Cleaned the screen. Said it was not gunked up as much as before, and everything was fine for about a year and a half.

    The station had told me that it was gunked up the first time, and that I probably made it worse with the engine flush, by breaking loose more gunk.

    Well, I am at my third or fourth time of this. I am about to take it in for service. I am contemplating having the screen replaced, and replacing the sender unit. That is about all I can do I think. I do not have alot of money. They say to replace the pump, I just about have to rebuild the engine. I do not have that kind of money.

    Any ideas? Anyone else having this same sort of problem ?? Is this a known issue with Ford?? Why is the Ford F150 so susceptible to the oil gunking up ??
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    If the problem is gunk/sludge/whatever, then replacing the screen and sender won't stop it from reappearing.
  • Take a look in the Expedition forum, I think that is where I read this...It sounds like you have a windshield leak. The leak is located just above the fuse panel in the driverside footwell. When it rains, water gets into the fuse panel, causing all kinds of havoc like you mentioned. I recall it being a pretty easy fix, but labor intensive. I bet if you take a look under the dash in this area, you will find moisture.

    A friend of mine had a '00 Expedition with the same problem, only the flashers would go on and alarm would sound when it rained, eventually draining the battery. He fixed it by replacing the truck.

    Good luck!
This discussion has been closed.