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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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  • My '95 Club Wagon with a 302 V-8 has an coolant leak.I am having a hard time detecting the source of the leak. I replaced the water pump about 40,000 miles ago; and have 155,000 miles on it now. The weap hole on the water pump shows no sign of leakage. All of the hoses look good. Any suggestions?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Leaking head gasket pressurizing the cooling system and causing coolant loss via the pressure cap?
  • tadragtadrag Posts: 10
    Get underneath and check below the back of the LH head (driver side). Mine had a slow leak that went undetected for a long time because the fluid hits a hot spot and evaporates before it hits the ground. I think the gasket between the intake manifold and the head is the problem one.

    Tom D
  • Hi, I have a 1997 F250 Powerstroke truck. All was fine until I removed the right battery. It was out for about four days. I did nothing with the truck during this time. When I put the battery back in three or four relays (left side of dash on top and under the hood in front of the brake cylinder)will click away for roughly ten seconds then stop. This will always start again when I try to start it. Turning the key to the on position lights what look like the normal dash lights but nothing happens when I turn it to the crank position. I did find that the battery that was left connected in the truck was down to about five volts. After charging there was no difference. When I connect the first battery (when both are unhooked)it arcs like the lights or something are on. Everything is off. Sorry so long winded. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks, Ed
  • I just had the same problem for the first time back in the first week of Nov. Took it to the dealership and all they could find was mosture in the coil park on # 4 cylinder. I have never had a problem with this until then. I have a 2000 f150 lariat 5.4L with 120,000 miles on it and I live in Fl with all that moisture and the age and miles on the motor you would think I would have had more trouble.
  • Winchel: Thanks so much for the information pertinent to the dribble and vibration problems of my new F-150 pickup. I will inform my dealer as to this possible solution... thanks to you. Could you tell me what SEMA is?
  • tadragtadrag Posts: 10
    I had the same problem with my '98 4.6. I was changing plugs at 55,000 miles and found moisture in the number 4 RH plug socket (passanger side). The truck had been running OK, but had a check engine light and the code said bad wires and/or plugs. I talked to the local Ford shop and they said the moisture problem was common the 5.4's and less common on the 4.6, and that there was a fix related to the heater hose plumbing etc that hangs on the firewall above that bank of the engine. I never could locate a leak and shortly later traded it in.

    Hope this helps.

    TOm
  • semacsemac Posts: 3
    The 150 miles per tank is using the full tank 19.5 gallons which means I am getting 7.6 miles per gallon.

    Is this normal?
  • SEMA = Specialty Equipment Manufacturers Association.

    This is the trade association for the guys that separate the do it yourself car enthusiasts from their wallets (and often good taste).
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    ........I am getting 7.6 miles per gallon. Is this normal?

    Certainly isn't! Poor fuel consumption can be caused by, or contributed to, by anything from a blocked air filter to binding brakes (or a hundred things in between, including an enthusiastic right foot!).
  • Ed,
    Sounds like one or both of your batteries is shot. If remaining battery is only reading 5V it's most likely been too severely discharged and won't recover. The glow plugs take a lot of juice, which is why the PSD has two batteries. The arcing you see when you hook up the second battery is that battery trying to re-charge the first one. Unfortunately, if the second battery has been hooked up for some time now, it's probably been discharged deeply as well. It could now be shot as well.

    The chattering relays that you hear when attempt to start the truck is a sign that the voltage in the system is too low to allow the relays to actuate properly. The coil in the relay tries to move the contactors, but the voltage is too low so it can't move all the way, but it keeps trying and gives you the clacking noise. Eventually the voltage falls lower and the relays don't move at all.

    Big question is what killed the batteries in the first place? Is there some problem with your charging system, i.e. altenator, voltage regulator, etc.? You may want to have it checked out, or you could end up killing the new batteries too. At places like Sears, the charging system checkout is either free or discounted, if you buy the batteries there or have them do repair work.
  • Wpalkowski, Thanks for the info.. It still does it with both batteries fully charged. As soon as I connect the first battery the relays start in. This is with the key out of the ignition. Does that still sound like a weak battery? I don't know if the batteries are good other than they did fine until I took the one out. After the charge they read >13.0 volts. Also can you suggest a good manual that has the wiring diagrams etc.. Thanks again, I appreciate all your time. Take care, Ed
  • Disconnect batteries. Do voltage readings stay at 13V, after 4-6 hours (at room temperature)? If after that time, voltage reading goes below ~12.5V, then battery isn't holding a full charge. Still better to have them tested under load, or to measure specific gravity of battery with a hydrometer (if it's not a sealed battery).

    The Haynes Manual at Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. has basic wiring diagrams. But they're not always specific to your model/engine/year truck. Helm sells dealer's shop and electrical manuals (www.helminc.com). They're the best but, quite pricey! (Though they're worth it first time you save yourself a big repair bill.) Try searching E-Bay for the Helm manuals. Sometimes you can pick them up on CD-ROM for a heck of a lot cheaper.
  • Wpalkowski, Thanks again for the additional information. I took both batteries to Advanced Auto to have them tested and one is bad. I haven't had a chance to try it yet with the new one, but when I do I will let you know. Take care, Ed
  • Simply put: do all of the current style F150s have the vibration problem or just some? Is it restricted to any one drive train/chassis combo?

    In thinking about the problem I'm wondering if the new rigid boxed chassis coupled with the much more direct rack and pinion steering isn't the problem? No one has suggested this and it might be an idea.
  • fpd7fpd7 Posts: 1
    My 1997 Honda Accord had the exact same symptoms. After several times stopping like this (we were on vacation) the ABS light came on, and it was deactivated automatically.
    The shop reported one ABS Sensor was bad, and it was sensing that one wheel was locking up, so it was releasing the brakes as it should when there is a skid.

    Replacing the sensor fixed the problem.
  • Thanks for your reply. I will look into the sensors. The interseting thing is that the ABS system worked fine until I replaced the left front caliper and front rotors. Immediately after the ABS malfunction occurred. My local garage could find no failure callout with his code reader so he recommended i see a Ford dealer. I guess that is what I must do as I am not sure how to test each sensor. Dirt may be the cause or possibly leaking brake fluid when I was replacing the caliper although i don't belive it got on the sensor. I thought I read somewhere some cars or trucks had ABS problems due to dirt affecting the sensors.

    An unrelated point of interest is that last week i lost my braking due to rusted out brake lines. one would think that the materials used for brake lines should last longer than 8 years.

    Thanks for you reply.
    J Allan
  • I have a 1999 ford diesel. the service engine soon lights
    comes on. when the light is on the transmission run rought.
    the computer shows a map sensor . I have changed the mat sensor. this did not solve problem. any suggestions.
    thanks lanny
  • CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW TO GET MORE BOOST BY SENDING A FAKE SIGNAL TO THE WASTE GATE ? I HAVE A 1999 F-350 7.3 POWERSTROKE
  • CLEAR THE COMPUTER THEN START ALL OVER. WHEN IT HAPPENS AGAIN SCAN THE COMPUTER AND SEE WHAT COME'S UP. SOME OF THE 99'S HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE OVERDRIVE IN THE TRAN'S
This discussion has been closed.