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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

18485878990107

Comments

  • mmossmmoss Posts: 2
    Hi,

    My F-150 hadn't been run for several weeks. Went out to start it, started right up. Let it run for a minute or two, then went to put into reverse and it died. Put it back into Park, turned the key. "Thunk." "Thunk." The heating/cooling and radio work just fine, so the battery is all right. Cannot move it into Neutral or any other gear. The weather has been in the mid-20's at night and low 30's during the day, and there is moisture under the hood (and in the cab). Could there be some problem with moisture or is this purely electrical--starter, solenoid, etc.???? Anyone have this happen?
  • I am experiencing the same problem(s). Any solutions?
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    "The heating/cooling and radio work just fine, so the battery is all right."
    Not necessarily....accessories draw a very low current so it is normal for accessories to work and the battery be too low to crank the vehicle. Try charging the battery or jump-start vehicle and have battery load tested.
  • I have a 1999 F-350 crew cab. I have a power stroke diesel. I am having a problem with my selecter switch. It seems to be stuck on defrost. When I move the selector switch nothing happens. I thought this system operates on vacuum. My cruise control works. Please help.
  • I have a 2005 F250 4x4 Supercab,company truck, with manual locking hubs & coil springs. I have the same problem you have. Took it to the dealer, they changed the front stabilizer. Still had the problem. Took it back, they said I did not have enough air in the tires. I had 50# in each tire. Ford specs call for 75# in the front & 80# in the back. This makes the truck ride like a tank, but it did fix the problem. This truck is dangerous because if the air pressure ever gets low (such as 50#(& the tires don't look low at that pressure)), the pickup front end will shake violently & uncontrollably ( also veers to the left when this happens). I have been lucky so far as to not hit any on coming trafic. These pickups should be recalled. They are an accident waiting to happen. My company plans on replacing this truck in the next few days.
  • Defrost is the default setting if there's little or no vacuum available. Check the vacuum pump and vacuum lines, especially where they come through the firewall - they tend to get brittle and crack at that point and it's hard to see it. If you have 4x4 shift on the fly, odds are that isn't working either.
  • I have a 99 f350 lost the gage cluster, power windows, 4x4,interior lights,power mirrors. Checked for corrosion found none, checked for bad grounds haven't found anything yet, Replaced the GEM didn't fix a thing.
    Did you ever figure out the problem? Would appreciate any
    help anyone could offer.
  • My 1994 f150 flare side 4x4 5.0 V-8 shakes at 1500 rpm's under load. After I pass the 1500 rpm it smooths out. I can run at the same speed on flat payment not under load and it rides smooth so I know it is not the tires. The tires are brand new and it did it before I put tires on it.
  • Thank you
    I will check it out.
  • seewoseewo Posts: 2
    Have you guys found out what the problem is. I Dropped my 2005 F150 SuperCrew 4 x 4 off at the Dealer today for the same thing exactly. It happened to me twice for just a few seconds and then this morning on the way to the dealer it started again, I was in traffic and couldn't get off the road. It lasted about three blocks. As I slowed from about 50 mph to 10 it quit with a loud clunk. (10,040 miles)
  • seewoseewo Posts: 2
    :sick: Have you guys found out what the problem is. I Dropped my 2005 F150 SuperCrew 4 x 4 off at the Dealer today for the same thing exactly. It happened to me twice for just a few seconds and then this morning on the way to the dealer it started again, I was in traffic and couldn't get off the road. It lasted about three blocks. As I slowed from about 50 mph to 10 it quit with a loud clunk. (10,040 miles)
  • I have recently had a similar problem with my 1989 F350 7.3L Diesel. However, my problem may have been self induced. Truck turned over, but would not start. I plugged in the block heater after killing the batteries. I put a 200amp quick boost on batteries to try to boost it. In the process of trying to start engine, I saw smoke coming up from the starter/solenoid. Truck proceded to start fine, but next day on a cold start all I got was a "click" from the solenoid. So I think I may have fried either a wire to the solenoid, the solenoid, or the starter itself??? I don't think my problem is the batteries,as I drove the truck for in excess of an hour after starting. Anybody run into this similar problem and can elaborate a bit??? Thanks, Bud...
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    If you are lucky the problem may just be dirty/corroded connections at the solenoid but not really likely. I think the problem may be that you let the smoke out....I learned a long time ago that electrical devices must contain smoke in order to function. Once you let the smoke out they no longer work.... :confuse:
  • have no trailer tail lights,factory 4pin and 7pin have no power, all fuses are good. Owners manual is no help.
  • In reply to your problem with your EGR CODE.I had the same problem with my 97 f-150.Its not your EGR valve,to fix your problem pull off your throble body that your EGR bolts to,flip it over there is two holes about 1/4in around that is built up with carbon.Clean out those two holes and bolt back down the throble body and your code and problem will go away.
  • I'm having a similar problem right now . . . did you figure out what the problem is? F350 powerstroke diesel . .
    thanks
    John :(
  • I have a 2000 F250 superduty.It wiil start to warm up to runnig temp and then cool down,and then overheat. What could cause this problem . I have changed the stat and flushed the radiator and still has not helped.
  • Thank you for your time, mac24! I really appreciate it :D
  • What engine do you have?

    Did you just drain radiator or did you "power flush" the whole cooling system. Could still have crud in the engine.

    Also, how's the water pump?
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Just because you changed the thermostat is no guarantee that it isn't defective. It is fairly common to get a defective one out of the box or one that only lasts a few months. I just changed one 4 months ago and now it is stuck in open position... :cry:
This discussion has been closed.