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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • Tebucky: I have gone through all possible attempts to repair my 05 150, My advice file for lemon with proper records. By the way my dealer tried their very best but once again it is an engineering problem that Ford knows about. Create a good situation with your dealership and they should help in this matter. Do not accept the answer that the truck is heavy duty and it is the nature of the beast. Good luck and do your homework.....
  • Shine
    What size truck? What size engine? What drivetrain?
  • jlcjlc Posts: 30
    Hi everyone, I am thinking about buying an 06 F150 XLT Supercab, but after reading all the vibration problems am not sure I want to take the chance. I really like the truck. Has anyone heard of the problem with the 06's ?
    thanks
    Joe
  • Vibration caused by clutches in posi-traction rear end was resolved by the dealer in Durham, NC. Dealer replaced clutch pack under warranty and no vibration has returned after 1 week. Much smoother operation overall.

    Many thanks to Jackaggie for supplying the TSB(See message #'s 1838/1840). I offered the TSB to the Dealer but they were familiar with the problem. Now checking for any leaks at the rear end. Ford is trying to offer reliable trucks but has a ways to go.
  • OKAY BOYS, Anyone with an F series or E-150, 250, 350 try and figure this one out??? 1996 Ford E-350 460 V-8 super duty... alternator replaced a year and a half ago 130 amps, and replaced feb,14,2006. new battery feb,14,2006... to start with voltage gauge inside shows about 10 volts, it use to show 14.5 before the van died last week. now with a new battery and new alt, voltage is lower, amp light comes on, then all systems start to slowly shut down, abs light comes on, overdrive light flashes, tranny starts to shift hard or not at all, then dies after about 4 miles of driving... So it's telling me that the voltage has droped so low anything electrical is now done for!!! I checked the alternator with a voltage meter and it showing only 11.5 volts going back to the battery... I checked the new battery and it's showing about 11.75 volts. Whats the problem? (1.)Voltage regulator on alternator, (2.) brushes in alternator, (3.) or is there some other problem??? all wires have been checked and are in good shape. all fuses have been pulled and current is flowing through 3 large 60 amp fuse busses under the hood in the data control box, with the key in the off position??? anybody else have one of these peices of crap!!! rguyer1@yahoo.com
  • Hello,
    My 1991 F150 XLT Lariat, usually very dependable, would not start yesterday. There was no inside light and the gauges did not work. I took battery and had tested and then replaced. The truck started and ran for 30 seconds and then died. I started a second time with same result. This morning I went out and tried to start. This time, no lights or movement of gauges. I crossed the cellenoid and no sparks. Looking forward to help from someone with more knowledge of trucks than I possess. Thank you. Mike
  • I bought my 2005 crewcab in august. I noticed that it had a slight something in the frontend but the dealer said that it was because the truck had been sitting on the lot and after driving it it would work out. It did. When I rotated the tires at 5000 miles it has a definite shimmy at 43 to 53 and again in the 60's but it is variable. The dealership force balanced it, then put on different tires, then put a stabalizer on the rear frame and it still shimmys or vibrates. The area ford representative told me it drove like a new one, so I have filed for arbritation. We meet this week. Any advice? Should I skip the arbritation and hire an attorney?
  • I could not in good conscience recommend anyone purchase a ford f150 crewcab 4 wheel drive. Mine has a shimmy- vibration and ford doesn's seem concerned. Says it "drives like a new one" referred me to arbritation. I recommend those that have it follow the recommended procedure, file for arbritation, then if not happy, file suit. good luck
  • For years I have always been a Ford person even sold Ford Trucks a few years ago. I just bought a 2006 F150 King Ranch. I test drove a couple prior to buying mine and liked them over the Tundra's. However now that I have bought my own the ride is a bad one. When I hit a bump in the road it hits hard shaking the whole truck for a few seconds, just kind of a hit and quick vibration. I thought it was the 20" tires but have talked to others and they have had no problems. I have about 2,000 miles on the truck. I don't look forward to driving the truck anymore unless I know I'm going to be going down a smooth road and there's not many of those around. Sometimes when I push on the brakes it will pull to the left and maybe the next time to the right, what's all that about? I gave up my F350 power stroke for a more comfortable riding truck but I'm having second thoughts about what I did. Any ideas.. Am I the only one with these kind of problems?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Am I the only one with these kind of problems?

    Absolutely not! Read back through this forum to see your story repeated over, and over, and over, and over again! :sick:
  • I had the same thing on my 2002 F350 power stroke. About once a year you have to have the rear spine going into the read end greased. The first time mine was on warrantee, the second time it cost me $120.00. Doesn't that make you fill good that you will have to pay for that every year. How long has Ford been making trucks, never used to have that type of probem on trucks years ago. And to think I just traded my F350 for a F150
  • I am having trouble with my egr valve from what i have been reading.Years ago on gas powered trucks i wouldnt have to ask this question but were is it located on my 2004 f 250 :confuse: .Thanks for the help.
  • jpcv7jpcv7 Posts: 1
    A couple of months ago my 78 F250 wouldn't start. Thinking that I had flooded it I just left is sit and caught a ride to work. When I got home she fired right up. This happed several times, but was no big deal. Last week it happened again but this time the truck wouldn't start when I got home.

    I pulled one plug and found that it wouldn't spark while the truck was cranking, but would spark just as I stopped turning the truck over. At one point it actually started with the plug out. When I replaced the plug it wouldn't fire.

    I changed the ignition module and she fired up. I got about a half mile from the house only to have the truck die. I pulled over, stopped, turned the key and it fired off and I drove to work. One of the quick connects on the coil was loose so I tightened it up when I got to work.

    The next day it did the same thing twice coming home. Then last night it died in the driveway and would not come back to life. I swapped the coil, ignition module, ignition switch, harness from the ignition module to the distributor, cleaned the cap and rotor - no life. I've got power to the coil, but no spark.

    It was cold and snowing today so I decided not to pull the distributor which would be my next move. The engine only has about 40K on it so the distributor is pristine inside.

    Anyone out there gone through this drill?

    Thanks,

    John
  • You are correct about this problem not being repaired. My truck has been in the shop for 28 days as of today. It has already met 1 of 3 criteria for the Lemon law in the state of VA, and Thursday it will meet 2 of the 3 criteria. I don't plan on dealing with Ford anymore with this problem except on getting my $$$ back.
    So far they have replaced the Rack & Seal steering system and the drive shaft. Now the truck rides much worse than before. I left the truck with them and said that I won't pick it up until it's fixed correctly. The service department is treating me like some idiot giving me all the excuses that I should return their loaner car and pick up my truck. My wife was dealt with in a rude manner by the service representative when they contacted her instead of myself. The proper paperwork is being sent registered mail today to Ford Motor Co., the dealership and VA Consumer Affairs. This is the only way to get closure on this issue.
    Ford engineers know of this problem and still haven't developed a fix. Stay away from Ford F-150's.
  • I think that you have made the right choice. Look at what my Ford dealership has done. I'm done dealing with them myself. Below is the posting I put out today, and if you read the back on some other postings we are not alone.

    You are correct about this problem not being repaired. My truck has been in the shop for 28 days as of today. It has already met 1 of 3 criteria for the Lemon law in the state of VA, and Thursday it will meet 2 of the 3 criteria. I don't plan on dealing with Ford anymore with this problem except on getting my $$$ back.
    So far they have replaced the Rack & Seal steering system and the drive shaft. Now the truck rides much worse than before. I left the truck with them and said that I won't pick it up until it's fixed correctly. The service department is treating me like some idiot giving me all the excuses that I should return their loaner car and pick up my truck. My wife was dealt with in a rude manner by the service representative when they contacted her instead of myself. The proper paperwork is being sent registered mail today to Ford Motor Co., the dealership and VA Consumer Affairs. This is the only way to get closure on this issue.
    Ford engineers know of this problem and still haven't developed a fix. Stay away from Ford F-150's.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    I recently bought a new 06 Silverado Z71 crew cab. I had a hefty GM card rebate, which influenced my decision to buy a Chevy. However, I was strongly considering an F150 4X4 crew cab, because several of my coworkers have older models and are very happy with them. Now, after reading about these vibration issues, I am glad I did not buy a Ford. I hope that Ford will come up with a permanent fix quickly. New full size trucks are not cheap to buy anymore and with today's technology, people deserve better quality than this.
    For ten years I drove a 1995 Nissan V6 4X4 pickup and the truck was extremely reliable. Practically nothing went wrong in 10 years and A/C was blowing just as cold when I sold it as on the day I bought it. Never touched it in 10 years! Now I am worried that I too have made a mistake buying an American truck. Only time will tell.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Want my opinion on Continental tires? Absolute junk. I had throw away a set of 4 Continental CH95s on my Mazda 626 because they literally fell apart. Has loose belts or something like that. I bought two new ones later and they were both totally out of round. My friend had the same problem with a set of C95s he bought for his Mazda Miata. he threw them away as well.

    I never had larger picup truck/SUV Continental tires, but if the quality control is the same as on the passenger car tires, they must be awful.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    In addition to its other problems, the F150 is now second only to the Kia Rio for having the worst residual value. After three years it's projected to be worth only 28.7% of its original cost.

    Cars.com
  • bamacarbamacar Posts: 749
    The XL is the worktruck version which people don't want after they have been beat up for 3 years. The XLT, STX, Lariat etc. must be worth more than 32.2% and more than the fullsize Chevy 1500. Its 33-52% for the other models on that same website.
  • I change my trucks front breaks about three months ago. Today I had to put a new set on because the other set got dusted. Now I notice that the brakes slitly stay on when I drive. What could cause this problem. Anybody else ever expirience this. Please contact me at wholeshott22@yahoo.com
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