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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • 1naplay1naplay Posts: 1
    And I thought I was the only one who was going through this. I had bought a 2005 F150 .. I started experiencing this problem about 5K miles ago. 4 Trips to the dealer and all I get is "there is nothing wrong" "It's a Ford and all Ford's vibrate.. kinda feels like it's missing" Heck yea, it missing, but there are no codes showing up.. or that is what I've been told. .. anybody out there have a clue as to what this could be? I had heard a rumour that Ford has dropped Bosch as their injector supplier due to drop in QA.. could there be some correlation?!??!
  • jdfrmkyjdfrmky Posts: 15
    I've an 04 F150 5.3 38k miles.same idling rough running as you describe.The computer was re programmed and truck ran as new then the fix "went away".Dealer tells me problem is check engine light does not come on to point to the problem,at least in my case.Motor Trend long term f150 had similar problem their vehicle re programmed and fixed(of course).
    Ford has all this new found religion for new product but that religion does not include customer support for what is out there.sad,real sad.
  • tjackson2tjackson2 Posts: 19
    Has anyone heard or read anything about the 5.3 F150 blowing out spark plugs and Ford and extended warrentees not covering the problem. I have a 04 fx4 and heard a rumor last night from a questionable source
  • tjackson2tjackson2 Posts: 19
    Since my post 1881 about my 04 5.4 fx4,I found out from consumeraffairs.com ford has been spitting plugs from their alum heads, primarily cylinder 3 Has anyone heard this
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    It does happen, but from what I've heard, it's not the norm.
    Evidently, head is thin, so that only 4-5 threads of sparkplug do all the holding. Talking to service tech at my dealer, he said "they get a handful each year for the past few years." Some were on low mileage vehicles, others with a lot.
    Boils down to having the plugs installed at proper torque setting. (Don't have my shop manual at hand so I don't remember what they spec for my 6.8L, V10) If they're too tight, plug could tear the threads in the head. Too loose and plug backs off. Either way it could spit the plug. When that happens many times the head can't be fixed with a Helicoil, etc., so it's $$$ to repair.
    Plugs are good for 100K, but that doesn't mean that they shouldn't be inspected and retorqued during that time. Probably should be done as part of normal maintenance on these engines. I did mine at 30K miles, all was fine, but it's tedious on a V10.
  • greyannegreyanne Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 F150 extended cab. My ABS Fuse blows when I turn over the ignition. It takes a 15amp, but blows that size immediatly and a 10 amp seems to last through two or three starts, which just doesn't make sense because that allows less current through.

    Anyone have this problem before?
    Any thoughts?
  • truck feels really rough when accelerating, gets smoother when speed settles out? changed drive shaft coupling, universal joints feel tight and greesed? any ideas, thankyou.
    f150 extended cab, 351w, auto
  • hyrkhyrk Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with climate control. I found also that my 4x4 was not working. Both these items work off the vacuum pump, i found a leak in my front driver side wheel hub. A temporary fix was to pull the vacuum hose off the hub and put a bolt in it to seal the rest of the systm. I am in the process now of replacing all my frontend seals.
  • pllangpllang Posts: 3
    Jackaggie,

    I'm having had the exact problem with my 2004 F150 4x2. This morning hopped in the truck and no reverse gear, its in the shop now, 37,000 miles so I'm probably screwed. I'll let you know what the dealer says today,
  • jor9500jor9500 Posts: 3
    I have an 01 F250 that was pulling hard to the left during moderate braking. I immediately suspected the right caliber was frozen or stuck. During inspection with the wheel and tire off, I had someone apply pressure to the pedal while I manually rotated the rotor. There was little resistance. I removed and replaced the caliper. I did not replace the pads because they were practically new, approx 3/8" thk and balanced both sides. While bleeding the brakes, I noticed the left side caliper (still OE) bleed off pressure was very high. In fact, it shot out and hit the top of the wheel well. The right side and both rears had the standard amount of bleed off pressure once the air was removed from the line. This struck me as odd but did not give it much more thought. Drove the truck and everything seemed fine. After a few days, the truck is pulling hard again to the left. This time, it is squeeling big time. I can't figure out why it would be doing this again? The bleed pressures are obviously the culprit. The left side has probably 3x the pressure over the same piston area, thus 3x the braking force. But why??? I don't have a good understanding of how the ABS system distributes pressures so the answer must lie in there somewhere. One more observation, the ABS light has been coming off and on for several months now. I thought it was a short, but now I am beginning to think it is related. Any have this issue or thoughts??? Thanks...
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    .....the ABS light has been coming off and on for several months now. I thought it was a short, but now I am beginning to think it is related. Any have this issue or thoughts?

    Sounds like a reasonable assumption to me. Could be as simple as a faulty sensor or clogged tone ring on that corner. Why not disable the ABS (normal brake function will be unaffected) and see if the symptoms disappear?
  • jor9500jor9500 Posts: 3
    Mac,

    I disabled it last night when i got home, should know something on my way to work. What is a tone ring?
  • jor9500jor9500 Posts: 3
    Unless I didn't disable the ABS correctly, this didn't solve the problem. I pulled the 60 amp fuse in the main control box under the hood, this is the only way I know how to disable. Now I am back to square one.
  • hello i need help and dont have anyone around me that can help i have a 1982 ford f150 4x4 it has standard sterring column i need to instale a tilt wheel all the slavage yards around me have none for my truck do you know what will work :sick:
  • i have a 1982 ford f150 4x4 i want to instale a tilt sterring colum can't find one for my truck around here and no one can tell me what other will interchange anyone have any ideas thanks
  • I did take mine in and the dealership added some "additive" which seems to have cured the problem. There is a Technical Service Bulletin (in one of my prior messages) which recommends a complete clutch package replacement. I guess as long as the additive cures the problem, then I would rather go that route as it minimizes the chances of the dealership screwing up something else. Only the long haul will tell me if the additive cured the problem or is simply masking it for the time being.
  • I have a 2001 F150 7700 with disk brakes. the emergency brake cables are free and move and pull the lever on the wheels to apply the brakes but the cables are so loose there is not enough travel to have the break engage. there is no adjustment on the cables or can I see any on the wheel. I have been told it is on the emergency brake pedal but can see nothing there can any one advise me?
  • innessinness Posts: 4
    Well, here I go again. My dealership called in the Mid-Atlantic Ford Motor Co. Represntative last week to meet with me. It was explained that the whole rack pinion steering, drive shaft, spacers of different sizes for the wheels were all replaced and none of these attempts worked. Now I'm into week 6. Last Friday they said the last attempt would be to change out the entire 3rd Unit (leaf springs and the whole rear end / axle)to see if this fixed the vibrations. I received word today that this did not work. The parts used were taken from a 2006 model, exactly the same as my truck. The Ford company rep. and the service manager told me that this was the last thing they could do to fix the problem, and if this didn't work they would replace my vehicle or settle out. That's where I'm at now. So for now, I'm waiting to see how the Dealership / Ford Motor Corporation solve this. Good luck with your quest, and don't let the dealership tell you otherwise. Call Ford Motor Corporation, I know you'll get some attention then. It's a Harmonic Imbalance problem caused by the deign of the truck (drive train, frame, etc.).
  • My father-in-law has a similar problem with his 1990 F250. The dealer told him there was nothing they could do (I suspect they just couldn't figure out what was wrong). Did you have any resolution to this problem?
  • gwsrrbgwsrrb Posts: 1
    Can you let me know what the problem was? This just happened to my truck today. Thanks!
This discussion has been closed.