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Mazda MX-5 Miata Starting and Stalling Problems

124

Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I guess I have trouble imagining why a sensor would actively prevent an engine from turning over. You would suspect an obstruction of some sort, i.e. physically.

    Ask also on Miata.net.
  • lz4004lz4004 Posts: 37
    edited June 2010
    This will happen on a 90 degree day after it`s been running. It will start right up again but after sitting a couple of hours in the heat it will crank awhile before starting, smelling gas. The car runs fine with only 44k
  • thimkerthimker Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Mazda Miata LS. Many of the same issues and solution attempts.
    The misfires seem to cause the Catalytic Converter/O2 Sensor damage.
    After multiple Cat Converter/Sensor replacement/repair by the dealer,
    (Remember that the emissions systems are warrantied for 8 yrs/80,000 miles)
    I still have the intermittent misfire, codes, engine light and rough running on two cylinders which clears up after a few miles and then clears the engine code after
    a couple of drive cycles (approx. 25 miles)
    After having done a lot of research and spending lots of money, I have discovered that apparently, Mazda Engineering has known of the 2000 Mazda Miata Faulty Ignition Coil Issue but for some reason, they never issued a recall.
    Perhaps because of the resultant damage to the other systems and thus their financial responsibility.
    The coils are a two part design. Following, you will find a post from AllExperts .com.
    "The ignition coils have been a common problem, they are not easily tested so these results should not be conclusive and the coils should not be ruled out entirely. The fault is intermittent and random misfire is the code that is displayed as they act up. In addition the assembly is made up of two coils they seldom both fail. One fires #1 & #4 the other #2 & #3.

    Another common issue is the crank position magnetic pickup, also a hard to diagnose component since it causes intermittent faults as well.

    These are the most common faults and one of them is likely your problem. The coil replacement should be treated as preventative maintenance, I have seen failures on almost every 1999 and 2000 model Miata I work on. Both are relatively easy to change. The CPS pickup requires a gap to contact adjustment when installed.

    Fuel pumps seldom fail even with limited use unless the fuel was allowed to sour and reduce to resin (2-3 years no use)

    Probability of Failure:
    Coils 9 out of 10
    CPS 5 out of 10
    Fuel Pump 2 out of 10"
  • I have a 1990 miata, was driving down the road yesterday, everything was beautiful never had a problem with my miata..... first time I ever drove with the top up and air on. Air was working perfect.
    The engine just stopped! Never heard a noise of any kind. the car just starting losing speed. I cut the radio off off witch wasn't very loud and the air off very quickly, tried to restart while coasting, but nothing happen. I coasted into a parking lot and tried again.
    It does turn over but sounds like a blender or a sewing machine. Someone told me it was the timing belt, but they wee just guessing, some body please help my baby is sick!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Could very well be because it is not an interference design, so be thankful the valves never hit anything.
  • diversdivers Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    Hello hope you can help

    First off i bought the car used and it's ran Great for over 6 months no problems at all
    then a few days ago i drove the car to a friends house, i was there about 2 hours
    it was a 25 mile drive up there and when i went to leave the car wouldnt start,

    i called a tow truck and had it towed home, after checking the car out im not getting any spark from the plug wires, i got a computer from autozone it's not reading the car or finding it, the computer works just fine on my other two cars

    but not the mx5, Here is my question when i turn on the key the only lights i get are an airbag and parking brake light, I'm almost 100% positive i used to get a check eng light as well when i would turn on the key and now i'm not.

    will the crankshaft sensor going out cause the car not to get a chk eng light ?

    or does this sound like a bad computer or something else

    all the car will do is crank i have power everwhere else horn lights dash light all that just no spark oh ad yes i am getting fuel
    and i have checked all the fuses inside and out.

    thanks for any help :cry:
  • diversdivers Posts: 2
    update if you turn the key off and on like 100 times the other 2 lights will come on the battery and check eng light so i'm guessing it's a short now somewhere but it still wont start even with them 2 extra lights comming on

    makes no since to me /cry
  • robinlvhrobinlvh Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 miata with only 25,000 miles on it that is doing the same thing; will start with no problems in the morning and in the evening but in the mid afternoon on a hot day it doesn't want to start right away, it will crank over and over before starting and when it finally does it runs very rough like it is going to stall out and the check engine light starts flashing and then remains on. Later on in the day when it cools off I will check it and it starts right up. I bought it used and since I got it, it has spent more time at my mechanics garage then my own. I am so disappointed. I had a 90 and drove it for 8 years with no problems, I loved that car, so when I bought this one I felt confident and expected the same fun and reliability. Have you solved your problem yet and do you have any suggestions.

    Any advise/suggestions :confuse: from anyone, please...
  • robinlvhrobinlvh Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 miata with only 25,000 miles on it that is doing the same thing as post #64 lz4004; will start with no problems in the morning and in the evening but in the mid afternoon on a hot day it doesn't want to start right away, it will crank over and over before starting and when it finally does it runs very rough like it is going to stall out and the check engine light starts flashing and then remains on. Later on in the day when it cools off I will check it and it starts right up. I bought it used and since I got it, it has spent more time at my mechanics garage then my own. I am so disappointed. I had a 90 and drove it for 8 years with no problems, I loved that car, so when I bought this one I felt confident and expected the same fun and reliability. lz4004, Have you solved your problem yet and do you have any suggestions.

    Before I spend more $$$ does anyone have advise/suggestions, please... I have read through most of these posts and the forum at mazda.net; has anyone reported back that the problem is solved?
  • lz4004lz4004 Posts: 37
    So far this hot summer, this problem has happened only twice. The only differece with yours is my check engine light or others don`t go on and no rough idle, just a raw gasoline smell. I purchased this car new in 99, Everything is still orginal,never had a tuneup, just a battery and oil changes. It`s gararged all year round and driven in summer months 2k a year, mint condition. I won`t do anything until problem gets worse. :sick: :confuse: ">link title<img src="
  • robinlvhrobinlvh Posts: 3
    Thank you lz4004 for your reply.
    Since there is only 25,000 mi on this car the parts were all original until I took it to my mechanic, he changed the plugs (informing me they were original) and changed the ignition wire set. It didn't solve the problem. He seems to think I need to get it on the highway and open it up to burn off any carbon built-up in it from sitting and not being driven very much, but I never get to make it that far with out this problem. I don't know, I will keep searching for answers.

    Again, thank you
    Robin
  • The last issue ended up being the Coil Packs.

    Next issue 149K
    No power - idles fine, feels like I'm on only one cylinder. Car started to overheat near my house, dont know why. Shut it down, car was towed. Mechanic (30 yrs)has tried the BARO and one other sensor, no luck.
    Waiting for their next move. They said they've tried every test under the sun and the car is tight
    What could it be?
  • jim814jim814 Posts: 1
    I've read the posts and learned quite a lot, thank you all. Our Miata was having many of the problems described so I installed a new coil pack and now it starts right up fine. I thought the problem was solved but when we drove it a while, pulled into a store, came out a few minutes later and it wouldn't start. Just crank, crank, crank. Finally after letting it cool for about 15 minutes, it started. We had earlier replaced the battery and fuel filter, which the mechanic said was clogged. I bought a used CPS sensor on EBay but am not sure how to adjust the gap. The car has an automatic transmission, so with the battery cable disconnected I'm wondering how to turn the engine to the open spot on the CPS. Or anything else about not starting when hot.
  • 1fatdog1fatdog Posts: 1
    edited April 2011
    I have had my 1993 miata 5-speed for one year and noticed that every once in while I try starting it I get no reaction from the starter; no slow turn over, no clicking, nothing. Lights and radio are fine, engine is not siezed. Car has a new starter, new battery and new clutch switch, none of which helped. the car has ran great a few times after these items were replaced, but only when it would start. It does not appear to be temperature or weather related. There are no problems with idle or drop out at speed. Searching for ideas, any help appreciated.
  • lz4004lz4004 Posts: 37
    Sounds like the neutral clutch switch is defective or maybe needs ajusting. Some have a adjustment under the peddle.
  • wayneboywayneboy Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Miata, also. I bought mine about 3 years ago and love it. I was having the same problem you describe. Since it was intermittent my mechanic couldn't diagnose it. When the problem occurred a few weeks ago the check engine light came on while I was cranking the engine and it wouldn't start. I got in to my mechanic the next day and the computer had stored a PO1345 code which indicates a problem with the cam shaft sensor. I replaced that and everything has been fine so far. It's simple to replace, just takes a few minutes. It's located right on the front of the engine. You can buy the part on line for about $75. Good luck.
  • lz4004lz4004 Posts: 37
    I haven`t gotten any check engine light on my 99.The last two summers have been fine
    after finding hard start when hot. It seems the cam senor is a issue on these,but i haven`t replaced it yet. I`ll wait and see this summer how it runs.
    Thanks for the info.
  • harrymaxharrymax Posts: 1
    I CHANGED THE TIMING BELT IN MY MIATA AND NOW IT WON.T START
  • miatadanmiatadan Posts: 1
    My car works great if it starts. Used to only be a problem in the winter or if not touched for a few days. A trickle charger has been very helpful. Car clicks and dummy lights go on but car won't turn over. Problem just started now in the summer. Is it my battery, alternator or what? Will take a jump and start instantly. Any thoughts on the problem? Thanks, Dan
  • dsinaydsinay Posts: 1
    Could someone please help me... I have just spent $800 to have the egr valve replaced the control , valve cover gasket ,egr tube cleaned and throttle body service and im still having the same problem. i start the car and it acts like its going to die..it has terrible acceleration,now they want to replace the catalatic converter. do you think that will solve the problem? also the horn keeps going off..
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