2013 and earlier Mazda CX-9 Prices Paid and Buying Experience

warever

Congrats. But it is a shame that you won't be able to enjoy the car for a year, seeing as how you didn't buy it until NEXT October...

(I think you meant October 31, 2007 - not 2008)

seloo

Please post your deal in terms of $ under the invoice price.

07 CX-9 $0 under invoice. At invoice.

08 CX-9 $500 under invoice.

Includes rebates.

No changes on the board this week. Surely, someone can beat these numbers, they are not overly impressive.

Keep posting those good deals.

thbarrett

Thanks, Your right 2007, and yes I enjoy it now very much. I hope I still enjoy it as much in 2008.

Tom

zoomornot

Hello -

After an exhaustive search, I decided I will place an order for a GT with no add on packages since I could not find one with Liquid Platinum with a Sand interior. However, I do need the Back Up camera and realized I could order the Back Up Camera w/Auto-Dimming Mirror Display without the entire Assist package (I am OK with buying the best Garmin package out there for Nav since the one that comes with the package is very mediocre I heard). I also want a GT because, I want the Blind Spot monitoring system and Blue Tooth for sure.

So my question to the good folks on the forum.

How good is the Back Up Camera w/Auto-Dimming Mirror Display? Am I making the right choice? It appears smaller in size since it is in the mirror and my belief is that it can only help and especially since it is a factory accessory and is the recommended accessory with the Touring model.

Also, is the IPOD jack standard on GT or do I have to order the 6 CD changer package (without the moonroof package. Moonroof packages comes with extra speakers too) ?

Finally, How long does it take from the time of placing the order to receive the vehicle? I heard dealers tell me from 4 to 12 weeks.

Too bad that there aren't many GTs out there without any packages.

Please advice.

Thanks

nxs138

I talked to the dealer last week about ordering a GT CX-9 with no packages: only add-ons would be mirror with rear-camera, roof rack, splash guards, and satellite radio. He said the build-date would be mid-december, and that's only because he already had an allocation ready to go at the factory. I would figure another month for delivery, so at least 8-9 weeks out.

I'm in the same boat as you, apparently: I don't want to fork big money for the built-in NAV or DVD system, and dealers don't order many GT's without these. You could, however, find Tourings with no options.

btw, the Ipod jack is standard. However if you get Satellite radio, you have to get the dealer to install a switch box, since apparently there is a conflict between the radio and the aux-port.

maverick8

I may be close to a deal but would like to clarify the ACTUAL fees that others are being asked to pay at signing? I have been quoted:

Acquisition or Bank Fee - $595 (often rolled into capitol cost)
DMV - $60.32
CA tire - $8.75
Licence - $296
Doc Fee - $45
Doc Fee tax - $3.94
First Months payment - $ (still negotiating)

Also, is it advisable to get as many costs rolled into lease? I can see that it reduces cost on the day, then you pay finance on the costs as well.

Finally, if Bank fee is added to capital cost but not MSRP it hits you twice! is it possible to add Bank fee to MSRP for positive effect on residual?

Thanks gang,

maverick8

Oh yeah, forgot the destination charge $595 rolled into the capital cost!.

Sorry,
Mav

warever

I can't comment SPECIFICALLY about a CX-9, but I CAN comment about the fees in general in California (where I live as well and have leased a number of vehicles).

The acquisition fee is basically extra profit that the bank is making. It is there to help them cover the costs of processing your lease. After all, they DO have to run your credit, check it out, process the paperwork, cut a check to the dealer, send you bills every month, etc. Not ALL banks have it but most do. Also, it can vary, but $595 is fairly normal... a little on the high side of the range, but not unusual.

The doc fee is basically to cover the preparation of the documents. Cheasy, but just like some of the "junk" fees you pay when getting a mortgage on a house, this is a pretty standard fee. I've not heard of sales tax on a doc fee, but that doesn't mean that they're not supposed to be collecting it - and it isn't exactly expensive enough to worry about.

The DMV fee and the License Fee are your first year registration fees. They're sometimes broken out like that (they are if you look at ANY car's DMV direct registration renewal in California) because some of the fees may be tax deductible and other parts aren't. I never remember which is and which isn't; I leave that for the accountant. Regardless, you DO have to pay to register your vehicle in California and it is normally done by the dealer and/or the leasing company for the first year when you lease your vehicle. After that, you'll get the renewals directly and have to pay the DMV directly. The AMOUNT depends on the amount of the vehicle and certain other factors; this amount seems pretty reasonable.

A first month's payment is collected in ALL cases I've ever seen. After all, that would be like you leasing the car but not making a payment on it. It is very standard to make the first month's payment up front. Remember, though, that this is NOT a separate fee and doesn't add to the capital cost of the vehicle. Yes, it DOES reduce how much your up-front money reduces the capital cost, but it is not ADDING to the capital cost. Also, since it is nothing more than your first month's payment, you don't have quite as many payments left. For instance, if you have a 36 month lease, you make that first month's payment when you take possession of the vehicle and then have 35 more payments, usually starting about a month from when you first got the vehicle. What that also means is that your last payment is paid at the BEGINNING of the last month.

The destination charge is something that's usually listed separately on the sticker. It is a normal charge for the shipping of the car from the manufacturer to the dealer. It varies from location to location which is one of the reasons that it is specified separately instead of simply being included in the MSRP of the vehicle; that way, the MSRP stays the same regardless of what state you're in but the bottom line can change if it costs more to get the vehicle to your local dealer. You can negotiate any part of the bottom line of the vehicle including the destination charge, but no dealer is likely going to negotiate on the destination charge SEPARATELY - just on the overall price of the vehicle INCLUDING the destination charge.

Something you didn't mention is a security deposit. That is basically something to get some free money from you. It is usually demanded when your credit isn't very good; it is basically money given to the leasing company up front just in case you don't pay your bills. Not only will they take the car away from you but they'll take that security deposit to cover the payments you didn't make. They can also use it in case you return the vehicle in bad condition (to help pay for the damage in case you don't pony up for it when they demand it at the end of the lease).

There are certainly legitimate reasons they might want a security deposit, but know that in nearly all cases, they either don't pay any interest on that money or pay extremely low interest. In other words, you're loaning THEM money - usually for the term of the lease - for free.

Note, of course, that any unused security deposit is given back to you at the end of the lease (though it is often just used to pay any lease termination fees - which is basically a junk fee that many leasing companies charge to cover their costs of taking back your car and selling it - again, just a little extra profit for the leasing company).

If your credit is bad or you're otherwise a bad risk, they may not lease you the vehicle without a security deposit. If that's the case, see if the dealer can find another leasing company - though the rates may be worse and it may end up costing more than simply handing over the security deposit.

None of these fees go to the dealer except the destination fee which is just part of their cost in THEM buying the car to sell to you.

avibug

Just picked up my CX-9 last night and wanted to share the price. I got a 2007 AWD Touring Stormy Blue/Sand with the Bose/Moonroof package. The MSRP is $34,690 (including destination) and Edmunds has the invoice price as $32,009. I paid $31,540 and took the 0%/ financing. Thanks to everyone who posted here; the information was very helpful.

perseus1206

Thanks for all the information you have all posted in making my decision for the CX-9 AWD GT w/ roof and bose. Total out the door 34,500.

I had purchased the car this weekend and took advantage of the 1.9% fin deal. Now I have learned yesterday that the fin rates have decreased to 0%. That's just wrong. I guess I can't do anything about this or can I. I have to go to the dealer tonight and pick up my all weather floor mats they through in. I am going to give them my word.

Thanks, A happy driver.

seloo

Can you give us some more details?

MSRP (with not add ons)

Invoice Price:

Rebates: (if any)

Price Paid: (before TTL, but include any extra fees)

Was there a trade?

Thanks

nxs138

It's interesting that the acquisition fee of $595 is basically the same as the destination charge. So shipping a heavy car halfway across the world is the same fee as a banker taking a piece of paper and stamping his signature on it (everything else is done electronically)

I should have been a banker...

avibug

The 0% financing is only available for the 2007 CX-9, and only if you finance for 36 months. The lowest rate for a 2008 is 1.9%. That is actually part of the reason I went with a 2007.

aray1

From the Mazda USA site:
2008 MODELS 2008 MAZDA CX-9
0% APR for up to 36 MONTHS (2) OR
4.9% APR for up to 48 MONTHS (7) OR
5.9% APR for up to 60 MONTHS (8)

Its says you must take delivery by 1/2/2008 for 0%

seloo

Please post your deal in terms of $ under the invoice price.

07 CX-9 $0 under invoice. At invoice.

08 CX-9 $500 under invoice.

Includes rebates.

No changes on the board this week. Surely, someone can beat these numbers, they are not overly impressive.

Keep posting those good deals.

pulleydog

perseus - I think it's a-typical for incentives to change 1/2 way through the month and although I feel your pain, I doubt they would be able to do anything for you since the deal was made last weekend and you took delivery of the car. I have to personally Thank You however for posting that little tidbit of information. I got home late last night and decided to check messages before going to bed. For some reason, I opened up the Edmunds Forums and eventually read your post, verified the 0.0% financing on 2008 models on the Mazda site, and went to bed wondering if I would qualify for the lower rate. I had signed paperwork on Wednesday, but I wasn't scheduled to pick up my CX-9 until today. I was prepared for a fight, but I didn't get one. They just re-ran the paperwork with the new rate and I was good to go. I would have never known (until it was too late) had you not posted that information. And just like you, I would have been very bummed-out if I found out later. I owe you - thanks!

pulleydog

MSRP: $31695

Invoice: $29329

Advertising Fees: $385

Paid: $29613 - which is either $284 over Invoice, or $101 under invoice - depending upon whether you take the (bogus?) Advertising fees into account.

The price of the vehicle and my Trade-In were negotiated separately. I got, what I consider, a very fair price for my car.

I was planning to pay about 1/2 down and finance the remaining at 1.9% for 36 months, but was able to take advantage of the 0.0% for 36 months and decided to finance the entire balance. I'll put the money I was going to put into the car into a CD for 36 months and earn the interest instead.

All in all, I'm pretty happy with how things turned out.

seloo

Thanks for your input.

"The price of the vehicle and my Trade-In were negotiated separately. I got, what I consider, a very fair price for my car."

Even though they are negotiated separately, both transactions are important aspects of the new car deal. Most dealers will pay only 70-80% of your car's real value.

Again, thanks for sharing and enjoy your new car.

nxs138

I'll put the money I was going to put into the car into a CD for 36 months and earn the interest instead.

Don't forget that you'll have to pay about $800/month in payments, so you might not want to lock the entire balance in a 36 month CD (unless you have money sitting somewhere else)!!!

pulleydog

"Even though they are negotiated separately, both transactions are important aspects of the new car deal. Most dealers will pay only 70-80% of your car's real value."

You're right. But they gave me $1000 more than the KBB value for a trade-in, in 'Excellent' condition. My trade was in Very Good to nearly excellent condition. Every other time I've gotten trade-in prices for other vehicles, I've been offered less than what KBB lists as 'Fair' condition value, so this offer was more in-line with what I thought I really should get for the vehicle. After I considered the tax savings, the advertising costs, and the 'hassle & waiting' factor for attempting to sell my car myself, this was a no-brainer for me.

"Don't forget that you'll have to pay about $800/month in payments, so you might not want to lock the entire balance in a 36 month CD (unless you have money sitting somewhere else)!!! "

Thanks - I haven't quite decided what to do yet. My payments are $395/month. My trade-in was worth more than 1/2 the cost of the CX-9, so the payments aren't too bad. But you're right, I don't want to cut this too close. Our bank does offer a no-risk CD account for 4.25% where I wouldn't need to worry about withdrawing/closing the account at any time, so that's an option too.

FYI - For those in the Boston, MA area - I bought it at Ira Mazda in Danvers and the sales rep was terrific to work with. Not sure I can post his full name here, but it is Marc A. - very nice guy...not the obnoxious pushy type you often run into in the car business.

batman47

The TMV given by Edmunds for a 2008 Mazda CX-9 Grand Touring 4dr SUV AWD was $34,615 without any options plus California adjustment (-$313). To this price an amount of $1,200 to activate the AWD has to be added. This made the price of this car without options $35,502 (AWD). Above this amount in order to put the car on the road taxes, title, license, dealer fees, etc (let’s say X) has to be added to the $35,502. Because I want roof rails on this car (let’s say $300). So the vehicle will be: $35,502 + $300 + X.
(1) Could someone give me approximate value of X?
(2) Could some body inform me whether he/she got a better overall price than the figure above named for this vehicle on the road? I am not particularly interested in moonroof, sound upgrade, and navigation system.
(3) I live in California but I may travel to obtain better deals.
I will appreciate realistic experiences from member of this forum.

batman47

Equally in addition to my previous message I expect to pay in cash.

seloo

I would not use TMV as a guide.

Use the the Invoice price as your guide and avoid extra fees (doc fee, port fee, etc... most if not all are profit for the dealer) The best deal on this board is about $500 below the invoice price (before TTL).

batman47

I will appreciate it if you could tell me how much did they charge you for tax, license, dealer fees, etc? How long did it take you to get the vehicle number's plates. Equally I will appreciate the contact of the person or dealership that did the deal with you. This could be very helpful.

warever

Be careful if you buy a car out of state and bring it into California.

First off, California is going to want you to pay taxes on the car here in California (if that's the primary location for use of the vehicle - i.e., if you register it and you live here). So if you travel out of state to buy a vehicle, you'll probably wind up paying tax in THAT state as WELL as in California. That may MORE than wipe out any savings you might have.

Second, California requires vehicles all pass certain smog regulations. If the vehicle isn't certified for sale in California, you're going to have to go through a pretty lengthy process (so I hear - never had to do it myself) and pay certain fees and expenses to get the vehicle certified.

That's not to say that you CAN'T buy a vehicle out of state and bring it into California, but it can be costly to do so. You should probably check into the specifics with the DMV before you even think about it because it just may not be worthwhile unless you can save several thousand dollars.

Also, to answer your question, usually, the biggest part of "X" is tax and license which is California sales tax and whatever the first year license fees are. Hard to say exactly, but probably the license fees are a few hundred bucks - likely $300-$400 or so. Nothing to do with the dealer, that's the State of California.

Oh, you get your temporary registration from the dealer with the vehicle. Depending on the backlog, you could get your permanent plates in 30-60 days in many cases - sometimes soon, sometimes longer. If you get so-called "personalized" plates, it can take longer.

TMV is an odd thing. It basically tells you what people have been buying those vehicles for recently. Some may be getting good deals, some may be getting bad deals. But that does NOT indicate what sort of a deal YOU could get - only what OTHERS have been getting. It just shows you overall what others have been able to get, so if TMV is very high (close to or at MSRP), that indicates that most dealers haven't been too willing to negotiate much. A low TMV means that dealers are dealing on these vehicles readily. Again, look at MSRP, invoice, and then do YOUR best to negotiate - and if TMV is much lower than they're offering, chances are you could do better negotiating.

As for getting a car without moonroof, sound upgrade, and navigation system, rememeber that you MIGHT not always be able to get a vehicle with EXACTLY the mix of options you want. Dealers generally order the set of options that are easiest to sell and that may not meet your exact requirements. Yes, you could special order a vehicle, but that's going to take time and may cost more than a vehicle that's already sitting on the lot (check back here because there was a long post about this maybe a month or two ago). Basically, dealers like to sell cars already on their lot so they're often more willing to deal on those than on a special order. So to get a vehicle special ordered without a moonroof (just as an example) might actually wind up costing you MORE than just buying one off the lot that already has it.

batman47

I do expect to buy a car in the USA. I expect to drive the car in the country one year and then move outside the USA for a long journey to Central and South America. I have never intended to bring a car from overseas into the US. This is crazy. However I must say that if you bring a car as a tourist visa into the USA you do not need to do nothing. This is the same to many USA citizens traveling to Europe with their Caravan or motor home. They do not have anything to do other that demonstrates that the vehicle is theirs and they have a valid international driving license. But anyway thanks for the information that I think is valuable.

avibug

I bought it in Arlington Heights, IL from Roto but paid the 9% Chicago sales tax because I live in the city. The only dealer fee was a document fee of about $50 (Illinois sets a maximum doc fee). No advertising fees or other costs. The dealership was great and actually got my car from an out-of-state dealership when they didn't have the exact 2007 CX-9 that I wanted.

dpagnotta

dpagnotta

I'm looking to lease a cx9 sport with a invoice price of 29,468. the residual they told me is about 60%. Is that accurate and can i find out the exact residual value before i negotiate a price?
What else can i find out before i go back and negotiate?
Help is appreciated.

patrician01

in case anyone here cares, today's Knoxville paper ran ad from Twin City Mazda advertising new CX-9 Sport $3,500 under MSRP..........i don't have scanner here for ad, but you can google Twin City Mazda just 20 miles south of Knoxville, TN ..........

john in nashville

kamiller42

I was offered a CX-9 Grand Touring for $37,975, which is $2,500 off MSRP, $40,475. That is $1,002 above what Edmunds says invoice is. It doesn't seem like much of deal. Should I expect more or what till rebates roll-in? When would we start to see rebates? I think I will qualify for 0% financing, so that works in the dealer's favor.

seloo

Offer the dealer invoice with no extra fees and then walk away!

Unless you must have a car today,time is on your side.

Good Luck!

noonan18

I got an offer from a local dealership here in NJ and wanted to pass it by you.

Mazda CX-9, Grand Touring, Loaded, MSRP- $40165

Price Quoted for lease- $37336 (Edmunds invoice is $36,644)

NJ Gas Guzzler Tax- $1623.48
Other Fees- $541.50

Dealer wants $1127 down, after the $750 rebate is taken off($1877.97 prior), payments of $586.47/month

Term is 36 months, 12K year miles.

Money factor- .0018900

Residual- 54%

At first glance, this didn't seem like a great deal.

Thanks for your help.

seloo

Sorry, I do not lease cars, so I am unable to provide you with the best help.

But, the lease price seems high, and what is the deal with the GGT and other fees?

If this is such a great car, why is the residual so low?

I agree, this seems like it is not a great deal. Maybe the lease experts can provide you with some more information.

nxs138

NJ Gas Guzzler Tax- $1623.48

SUVs should be exempt from the gas guzzler tax--unless individual states have the power to assess it...?

seloo

Please post your deal in terms of $ under the invoice price.

07 CX-9 $0 under invoice. At invoice.

08 CX-9 $500 under invoice.

Includes rebates.

No changes on the board this for a couple of weeks. Surely, someone can beat these numbers, they are not overly impressive.

Keep posting those good deals.

seloo

Please post your deal in terms of $ under the invoice price.

07 CX-9 $0 under invoice. At invoice.

08 CX-9 $500 under invoice.

Includes rebates.

No changes on the board for the last couple of weeks. Surely, someone can beat these numbers, they are not overly impressive.

Keep posting those good deals.

silvpa2000

Greetings,

Specs: NAV. MoonR, 20 inch Alum wheels, auto trunk, rear cam, SAT, etc... NO Towing.

Dealer is asking for 2300.00 Down with $535.00 monthly payment - to drive it off the Lot w/ TAX, Delivery, Plates, etc... (PA); the car MSRP was of 39567.00 -

(36 Months 15K Miles Yearly.) - Is it a good deal?

What monthly payment should I expect based on the aforementioned information for 24 and 36 months with $2000 down?

Please advise. I dont have a clue as too what I should be paying for this car.... It does beat a BMW in price, confort, and technology....

warever

"Don't have a clue"... yes, you're acting clueless. GET a clue before you buy/lease. The absolute WORST way to buy a car is based on how much you put down and how much you're paying every month. You could be getting screwed in more ways than you could even think of and you wouldn't know it. Read some of the back posts on here because I know I personally gave a bunch of tips on negotiating a vehicle deal (as did other people).

Basically, all you know is that you're paying $535 x 36 + $2,300 for the use of the vehicle - a total of $21,560 (and depending on what state you're in, it might actually be higher because some states charge the sales tax rate on the monthly lease payment each and every month while others charge it up front on the entire purchase price of the vehicle - here in Los Angeles where the tax rate is 8.25%, that $535 a month might ACTUALLY be $579.14).

You really need to look at EACH figure individually. Start with the "cap cost" which is basically what you're "buying" the car for. As some other people on here have said, they've been able to get deals of roughly invoice or maybe $500 above. How do you find the invoice price? Use sites like Edmunds, KBB, or MSN Autos and enter in the information about what's actually in the vehicle - you'll get both the invoice and the MSRP. If the MSRP matches or is very close to the sticker, then you've probably got pretty accurate pricing.

Once you've negotiated a cap cost, you can look at the "interest rate" which in a lease is normally described as a "money factor." If the dealer won't tell you, walk. If they claim they don't know, walk. They know. The SALES guy might not, but they finance guy and/or the sales manager does know and can tell you. To convert it to something you can understand, take the money factor and multiple by 2400 - that will give you an approximate interest rate in percent. If they're charging something like 15% (money factor of 0.00625), you're being had. 3% or 4% and you're probably getting a pretty damn good deal.

You also have to look at the residual, but chances are that you're not going to be able to negotiate that - it is basically what they estimate the vehicle will be worth at the end of the lease. Your payments are based primarily on the "interest rate" and the spread between the "cap cost" and what the vehicle is going to be worth at the end of the lease.

Something else to think about is that in a lease, you never own the vehicle. Putting extra money in up front doesn't ever get you anything on the "back end" like it might with a purchase; you're not putting money in now that you'll get out when you sell the car because you don't own it and won't likely be able to sell it at a profit. You REALLY have to look at any money you put in up front as simply taking money away from yourself and giving it to the leasing company as prepaying part of the lease - and then figure out how MUCH you're really prepaying. WIth $2,300 up front, you're effectively paying an extra $64 a month for the vehicle, only you're doing it up front where you won't realize it every single month.

Look at any fees they're tacking on. Destination charges are standard and are not usually negotiable. Tax on a lease may be charged up front or every month depending on your state, but that's not going to be negotiable. The license is, well, what it costs to register the vehicle for the first year. Other crap fees are usually just profit to the dealer and/or leasing company. Pay particular attention to acquisition fees and lease termination fees. While not uncommon, you need to know about them in advance; dealers often "forget" to talk about termination fees but what that means is that the vehicle may easily cost you an extra $500-$750 or more at the end of the lease just to turn back in. And while the DEALER usually can't negotiate on these fees (they're usually set by the leasing company), the dealer CAN look at other leasing companies instead. The one that has the lowest "interest rate" (money factor) will come out with the lowest monthly payment and that will usually LOOK good to you, but would you rather have a lease that costs you an extra $3 a month that has no termination fee or one that costs $3 a month less and has a $500 termination fee (which means paying $108 extra over the 36 month lease versus an extra $500 at the end)?

Also check into the "wear and tear" policies because some leasing companies are terrible and will try to charge you for every tiny little door ding while others are more lenient.

And, of course, make sure you NEED the 15K miles per year; if you don't go over 12K per year, that might be a less expensive lease if available. But make sure that you are realistic and learn the excess mileage fees because if you go over, you could wind up paying a LOT of money (50 cents a mile turns into $500 for only 1,000 miles over - and if you're 5,000 miles over, that means paying an extra $2,500 at the end of the lease).

warever

Sorry for the delayed response (not like I'm a moderator on here or anything... just another guy who reads and posts).

"...can I find out the exact residual value..."

Nope. You can ask what a particular leasing company considers the residual, but there is no single residual value.

The residual value is simply what the leasing company thinks the vehicle will be worth at the end of the lease. They try to get it as accurately as possible but it is, nonetheless, just a guess. A number of years ago, leasing companies thought big SUV's were the in thing and would be popular forever. Then gas prices skyrocketed. You're not in the market for a big Ford Excursion, right? Maybe because it is HUGE and gets mileage in gallons per mile instead of miles per gallon? (ok, exaggeration there)

Well, what do you think happened to those leasing companies that leased out those vehicles and thought that after 3 years, they'd be worth 60% of their value - but then found that they could get only 45% of their value? Well, they paid out 100% of the vehicle, you paid off 40%, and then can get back only 45% - so now they find that they've just lost 15% on the vehicle. Not a good deal for them.

So leasing companies don't want to make the residual value too high because then if the vehicle is worth less than that, they'll lose money. But then, they can't make the residual too low because then your payments would be too high and nobody would ever want to lease from them.

So just like banks all compete on the interest rates for loans, residual values are similar - it will vary from leasing company to leasing company.

On top of that, the residual will vary based on the location and time of year. A vehicle that is highly desired in the northeast might not be worth much in California. And, of course, if you buy a vehicle when it just comes out, the value three years from then will be different than someone buying the same car at the END of the vehicle run when the new models are about to come out (or rather, three years from THEN). And some cars are worth more in different seasons; the value of a used convertible might be higher in the summer so three years from you buying it in the winter might be a lower residual than figuring three years from you buying it in the summer.

So you can ask the dealer to tell you what a particular leasing company is figuring the residual as, but there's no one specific value to compare against - you just have to look at what different leasing companies are giving.

gleung

You read right, I got my brand new 2008 CX-9 below invoice and 0% finance! The car is so so great and so so new (4 miles on OD)... And yes below invoice (not MSRP)! Can't find anything better in SF Bay Area for sure!

Edmunds' Forum Host told me that I can't name the sale manager who got me the deal but I can tell you the dealership - Menlo Park Mazda.

Good luck and Happy shopping!

seloo

Congrats Greg,

Can you provide us with some more details:

MSRP: with out ad-ons

Invoice Price:

Price Paid before TTL (plus any fees such as doc fees, port fees, etc...)

Rebates: If any?

Was there a trade involved?

Thanks

live2ski

I just bought my 08 CX-9 Touring a few days ago.

Here are the specs:
08 CX-9 Touring AWD
Brilliant Black
Touring Assist
MoonRoof/Bose
Remote Start
roof rails

MSRP: $38,915
my price: $35,601 (S-plan invoice) + TTL
and I couldn't turn down 0% 36 months financing!

I went with a loaded Touring vs a minimal GT, mostly because of the 20" wheels. Living in Colorado, I did not want to spend a fortune on snows and replacement costs would be high. Plus, wheel size bling is not a priority for me. I'll have to see how the 18" all-seasons do in the snow. Also, the backup camera on the nav screen seemed more appealing than on the mirror (if we got the GT).

Great buying experience. I was in and out within 90 minutes, which included the test drive. The dealer had the car with options I wanted and with s-plan the price was easy. I would have preferred Galaxy Gray, but oh well. Sign some papers and I was driving home. Zoom Zoom!

seloo

Congrats on your new car.

Did you pay any fees (doc fee, port fee, etc....)?

Thanks

live2ski

Thanks. the only difference from Edmunds invoice price was the dest charge was $635 vs $595 and there was a $200 Denver Assessment which is part of the invoice price (Advertising fee?).

seloo

I have never heard of a city assessment fee, interesting. I think it is another BS dealer fee (those guys are very creative), but I do not know for sure.

Good purchase, enjoy your car!

vats

08 CX-9 Grand Touring AWD
Stormy Blue
Sand Interior
GT Assist Package
MoonRoof/Bose
Blind Spot Monitoring

MSRP: $39,800
Invoice: $36,512
My Price: $36,012 + TTL
$0 Down
0% / 36 months financing

Purchased at Menlo Mazda in SF Bay Area. Very quick transaction, with no hangling involved.

seloo

$500 below invoice!

Did you pay any additional fees?

Thanks

vats

$55 doc fee

topneuro

An Out The Door (OTD) price is not a price before taxes.
The final negotiation price of the vehicle (which includes destination fee since this fee is not negotiable), plus all Sales taxes, tags, registration, all dealer fees real or imaginary, is the OTD.
Of course as expected OTD will be influence by the state where you buy and/or register the car, therefore for comparison purposes specify Final negotiation price of the vehicle and also the OTD.
Dealer Invoice is not Dealer Cost is useful to known or be told but is just another form of creative accounting but in principle all negotiations should start with this elusive figure.