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Toyota Tacoma Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

135

Comments

  • chivitochivito Posts: 2
    Nobody has replied on this forum and I have not figured it out yet. Someone in a parking lot told me that they had a similar problem with a Chevy and it was a heat sensor in the fuel pump (or that controlled the fuel pump.) He listened when I tried to start it and said the fuel pump was not going on so he thought I had the same problem. I am telling my mechanic about that next time I take it to j=him.

    Of course I can never get it to happen at the garage...
  • nlstevenlsteve Posts: 2
    I'm not sure if my '95 Tacoma 4 cyl. is having exactly the same problem as yours.

    On a warm or hot day, after it has been driven for a while, it often won't start again after it has been parked for a while. This is not an issue in cool weather.

    It does "turn over" (the starter is running) but the engine does not catch and start. It's hard to say for sure, but it seems like if I flood it a bit while cranking it over, it will SOMETIMES catch and start. So maybe it is a problem related to heat and the fuel pump.

    I, too, have had it at the mechanic with no success. Open to suggestions.
  • smuddysmuddy Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Toyota Taco that intermittently sputters while driving. It doesn't happen at any particular speed or in any weather conditions but seems to be most prevelant when I am accelerating after changing gears or accelerating in 5th at highway speeds. New Wires and Plugs are the most recent change and I'm wondering if I have the plugs gapped correctly. Anyone know what the proper Gap should be? With 121K on the motor and some striking visual enhancements she's a fine looking and running ride overall. People give me grief for haulin' my Harley in the back when me and the Ol' Gal go on trips but they can't beat the gas mileage even with the A/C on in the heat of South Mississippi. Gimme your best guess... Thanks! :shades:
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Sounds like a leaky fuel injector. Your engine gets flooded with fuel after you run it for awhile and then it doesn't statrt. When the the excess fuel evaporates after it sits longer it starts up. Have your mechanic check the injectors. Good luck.
  • mtsusmtsus Posts: 1
    You need to replace your air temp sensor, on my '95 it is on friction fit plug sensor on the left size of the air filter box. I have been having this problem for awhile. Been waiting for a hot day to check it. Today was that day.
    To double check it, when it won't start unplug the sensor (electric clip) and it should start, it will trip the check engine light, but it fires right up. Once it was running I plugged it back in and it still worked. The part is $45 to $70 depending on mfg or store, anyone can replace it without tools. good luck
  • Thanks a lot man, I have the same problem with my 95 Tacoma Truck and it's been driving me nuts. Replaced whole bunch of part and the problem is still there. I will try your solution and back.
  • I have changed fuel pump, fuel filter, wires, distr. cap, rotar button, fuel regulator still problem exists. Cranks great when engine is cold, but once it gets hot and you turn engine off and let sit for 5-10 minutes it is a hard to start. It takes a long time to turn if over. I had ignition module checked it was ok. Could it be ignition coil going bad? I have been told most of time if it was coil would not crank at all? Please help!!! Thanks
  • sounds like it may be the cold start injector or the cold start time switch... the timer looks just like a temp sensor, and is right next to the temp sensor at the back of the engine behind the intake( close to where the old chevys had theyre distributors), anyhow take this and unplug it first to see if it makes a difference? then remove it and test it with a multimeter, you can get the specs out of a chiltons, i.e. u need a thermometer and bowl of boiling water to check the full range of the switch. anyhow, u can just replace it if u dont want to go through the trouble os testing it to see if it is good. that should help/ fix your problem thoug. by the way, you do have the 3.0 v-6 correct. if not the switch is in a different location, but still basically called the same thing
  • My Tacoma is a 2.4 engine. Is this part the same as the engine coolant temp. sensor? Thanks
  • I have the same truck...I brought mine to the dealer for the same problem you are having...they said my fuel pump is going out...they tested the fuel rail it should be at 40 psi +- mine was at 10 ...being that i drive 55 miles one way to work ...my truck is out of warranty...the new fuel pump can only be purchased from the dealer go figure....its about 671.00 here in la. it also throws the AFR..Air fuel racial sensors off also...the 2 above the catylatic converter and those 2 if bad are about 400+ each..if they are bad good luck getting them out...they usually break...bout 800 for new manifolds....so if under warranty let them fix it and please let me know the outcome my truck is still on ramps at my house due to bad fuel pump i hope.
  • I do not have a rough idle i have a slow acceleration problem I did change the mass air flow sensor no change brought it back to autozone got refund then brought truck to toyota...my fuel pump is bad and its in the tank I should say it was i removed it ..and now i am searching for one before go broke and go to the dealer...dealer wants arm ,leg,and two kids for oem part this is nuts...that the dealer is the only place I can get replacement if you or anyone you know knows where too get one let me know please. thanks...kidoinacoma
  • i've seen so many posts on this problem and not one answer has anybody figured it out. Same problem as others runs great when on but if its hot out with engine hot if i turn it off come 10-15 minutes it wont start. It turns over but the engine will not start if i let it sit for another 10 minutes then it starts and runs great. replace plugs, wires, air filter fuel filter water temp sensor. Please help.
    2.4 4 cyl manual
  • I had this problem for quite some time and changed out plugs, wires, crank sensor, rotor button, cap. I finally figured it out that it was the engine coolant temp. sensor located at the back of the engine. After that it cranked fine even if hot and been sitting for a while. oh yeah changed fuel pump & fuel regulator. I recently experieced coil problems. When the coil starts breaking down it can possibly do this. I replaced my coil because it was trying to stall. I just want to WARN PEOPLE THAT THE MADE IN CHINA COIL THAT ARE SOLD AT YOUR LOCAL PARTS STORE DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY. ONLY A DENSO BY TOYOTA WILL PERFORM CORRECTLY now it runs great!!! Coils at dealership is around $97. It will be worth it to get problem fixed. I have 2.4 liter, automatic.1995.
  • 95 22re. I am having all these same problems....easy to start then hard to start, hesitation, stalling but sometimes it runs just fine. The other symptom I have is a high charging rate. I replaced the alt about 5 months ago and battery bench tested good. Any ideas...i was thinking maybe the fuel pump is shorted out? and causing the high electrical load...It stays pretty constant at about 16 volts and pulsates when blinkers are on...jumps when lights are turned on.
    I did the "pull positve lead to batt while running and see if it stays running test" it did but when I tried turning on a/c and headlights the engine died.

    Any ideas?
  • dookiedookie Posts: 1
    i recently replaced the converter shield gasket. after that my rpms cannot climb past 2400 in idle or when i drive. some days the response is boggy and some days it responds fine. i checked the spark plugs got em cleaned. i took the tank off and inspected it, fuel filter was okay as well. this morning as i took the kids to school it couldnt rev past 1500 rpms.
  • 1996 Toyota 2.4L 4cyc. Present problem; the truck stalls after 5-10 seconds after starting when idling in place. Once the truck is moving in gear, the truck stay running. The 3 engine check lights are: P0100 Mass flow sensor error circuit, P0110 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit, and P0336(P0335) Crankshaft position sensor circuit fault. History; the truck was sputtering and stalling, so I first replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap and fuel filter. After that engine was occasionally missing while driving down highway. Took to a mechanic who replaced two of the fuel injectors. After that the engine started stalling as first mentioned. Mechanic replace Crankshaft position sensor. No change in stalling problem at startup. Any Suggestions Please?
  • I have just hit 10,000 miles on my 2008 TRD Double cab 4x2 4.0 V6 and it happened again today and makes the 4th time since I bought this truck new back in May. I go to start it after my truck has been sitting for 8 or more hours and it just cranks but does not fire. I let of the key after about 10 cranks and then hit it again on the second try it cranks several times and then finally fires and then black or black on the verge of blue smokes comes pouring out of the exhaust and stinks like hell. I do not push on the gas when starting so I do not think it flooding. Any ideas would be appreciated
  • i have a 95 toyota tacoma with a v6 3.4L in it, i had the same problem where my truck would run fine and as soon as i turned it off and let it sit, it wouldnt turn back on, i took it to a dealer and they told me it was my fuel pump and after it was replaced it still did the same thing, then they found out that the wireing harness under my seat was corroded and it wouldnt turn the fuel pump on after a while. So they re did the wiring to my fuel pump and now the problem has been solved.
  • i have a 95 toyota tacoma with a v6 3.4L in it, i had the same problem where my truck would run fine and as soon as i turned it off and let it sit, it wouldnt turn back on, i took it to a dealer and they told me it was my fuel pump and after it was replaced it still did the same thing, then they found out that the wireing harness under my seat was corroded and it wouldnt turn the fuel pump on after a while. So they re did the wiring to my fuel pump and now the problem has been solved.
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