Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Toyota Tacoma Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

124

Comments

  • change the ignition coil but only bay the original from toyota others not work (only DENSO brand)
  • you are the men i did by the original and work perfect
  • I had the same problem. It was the distributer, but you have to purchase a Toyota distributer not an aftermarket. That should take care of your problem. I went thru changing all kinds of parts before I finally figured it out. It has to be a Toyota part!!! It will miss or not run at all. Good Luck!!!
  • I am having the exact same problem. Same codes and everything. Believe it or not I was told the timing chain is stretched and is putting the crank and cams out of phase....I know sounds like bull, but I'm looking for a second opinion...have you tried anything else withany luck?
  • tacofevertacofever Posts: 3
    edited January 2011
  • change the air flow sensor...you wont be dissapointed..
  • changed the mass air sensor...you can do it.. :)
  • chas33chas33 Posts: 1
    Just had the same problem. Rt sig and blower on stalls truck. I have a 99 tacoma. Found that with the blower on only I had 4V at ground of the front right turn sig. When I disconnected the blower, thus taking out the resistors and blower switch the problem would then occur with the rt signal even with the blower switch off. Found that with the blower sw off (blower hooked up) there is a path to ground via the resistor bank so the rt sig would work with the blower off. Anyway I found a broked ground located behind the fuel vapor box. There are 2 ground wires comming out of the harness that goes thru the firewall on the drivers side. Since they are protected by the black box I think some small (mouse) broke one of the wires. I fixed the ground and the problem went away. On my tacoma, starting at the front drivers side, Battery, fuse box, Vapor box. Hope this helps you.
  • mcovianmcovian Posts: 2
    edited August 2011
    97 Toyota Tacoma Pickup, 2.4, Won't start when hot. Starts easily when cool.

    Driving around town in 95 degree day, after the engine is stopped for 5 minutes. Won't start, engine cranks and after 5 or 6 tries the engine will start.

    Disconnected the Air Filter Box Sensor and the engine started right up even though it was very hot. Drove around town, stop and go traffic and turned the engine off after 5 minutes off the engine started right up.

    A new Air filter temp sensor should cost $65.00 and I expect that will solve my problem.

    Thanks - Covi
  • Greetings all knowing mechanics,

    Background info: 2000 Toyota Tacoma, manual transmission, 4x4, single cab with canopy, silver nicknamed The Cricket.

    Car won't start without a jump. Problem started a year ago. I thought the alternator was bad but it and the battery checked out at the shop I bought the battery at two years ago. They gave it a full charge and then no problem for a long time. Then it has the same problem. Fuses were good and then I noticed an ac adapter in the cigarette lighter was warm in the morning. Took that out and then it was fine for a few months. Now I notice that it starts fine if the engine is warm but if I turn it off for more than five minutes then it won't start.
    At present I turn the ignition and it might start to turn over but always it immediately; if not from the get-go, reverts to rapid clicking. I've recharged the battery but after many highway miles and a day later the problem is still there.

    That's all the pertinent info I can think of. Let me know if I left anything out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Sincerely,

    Ammon
  • slee5slee5 Posts: 6
    I have a older Toyota truck have similar problem. Is the starter turning?
    If just a click, click, It was a bad solenoid in starter. after changed starter it starts fine. You mentioned " It might start to turn over but always it immediately WHAT?? I am guessing In here, but, if engine shut off as soon as it starts, when you relax the key switch, then looking the problem in your key switch. Good luck !!
  • i have a 2000 Tacoma 4x4 5 speed you have to pull it off the first time you start it of the day it will not start off the key it just cranks after you pull it off it will start off the key the rest of the day i have changed fuel pump ,fuel regulator ,spark plugs ,plug wires if anyone might have an ideal what the problem is i would really appreciate any ideals
  • missykaymissykay Posts: 2
    My 03 toyota tacoma started having issues a yr ago...I took it to the dealer & because no codes would come up they couldnt tell what was wrong. It will lose all power, mostly after taking off from a stop or cruisin @ 25-30 mph. For awhile it was even doing it at higher speeds. Well it just kept getting worse & finally the check engine light came on. Went to another toyota dealer & they told me it could be one of several things...an O2 sensor was out, the air filter was plugged up & the mass air flow sensor was filthy. After $1200, they replaced O2 sensor, air filter, cleaned MAF, changed water pump (it was leaking) & timing belt. The next day, it was doing the stalling again. Took it back to them & they cant figure out whats wrong...they say there are no codes coming up & the MAF is reading good. I am very frustrated! They never mentioned anything to me about fuel pump, fuel filter or anything like that so Im wondering if it could be one of those? Or would that have come up on their scanner?? Please give advice!
  • missykaymissykay Posts: 2
    Oh and by the way, it has never actually died on me or had trouble starting...but sometimes takes several seconds to go again!
  • I had a similar situation. It was the whole distributor going bad. The check engine light never came on. For whatever reason, an after market will not work. It has to be a Toyota part or it simply will not work. I have had this problem before on other Toyota Tacoma truck I have owned. Good luck, hope this helps!
  • For those who have thrown good money after bad to fix this problem. I had the same problem and a mechanic buddy of mine gave me the magic bullett and it diddnt cost 1 cent! You need to reset the onboard computer to factory settings. Disconnecting the (-) on the battery isnt enough. Take the (-) loose and touch it to the (+) on the battery for 30 sec to one min. Reconnect the battery and take it for a drive. It solved my problem and it has not had a problem in 2 months now. :shades:
  • What you are suggesting about touching the neg. cable to + on the battery is a recipe for disaster. You can short out the entire vehicle electrical system, or produce a spark that will blow the battery up in your face.

    Holding the connection for 30 sec. would be the equivalent of arc welding for that period of time, and the smoke coming out of various components would just re-enforce the old theory.........Electrical stuff runs on smoke, and when you let the smoke out, they don't work anymore!

    Be careful out there.
  • jkirbjkirb Posts: 1
    I've been troubleshooting this truck and can't seem to find the problem. Dealer has replaced the fuel pump and we just replaced the PCM and still nothing. I need a little help diagnosing. I took out a plug and don't get a spark when turning it over. I am getting gas up to the engine compartment but no way of knowing if injecting. Is there any way to check the electrical of the EFI circuits with a volt/ohm meter? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
  • P0366 : The PCM sees that there is excessive deviation between the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft sensor .

    Check the timing with a timing light with the diagnostic plug jumped at T1 and E1, and if the timing is between 7 and 18degrees then you have a lose timing chain .

    This code is telling you the PCM does not like the setting of the ignition ,so distributor or timing chain issue .

    To be 100% you will need a scope to check the deviation of the crank and cam sensor.

    If all checks out good then you may have a bad PCM.?
Sign In or Register to comment.