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Dodge Dakota Problems. Please help!

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Comments

  • pokeapokea Posts: 6
    Thanx iowabigguy. 4 way emergincy flashers work fine. Guess its off to check the switch.
  • droldmandroldman Posts: 1
    I have to agree with the criticism of Dodge & Jeep. I made the mistake of buying a 1996 Dodge Caravan (bought new) AND a 1998 Dodge Dakota extra cab (bought new). The many problems include:
    Caravan:
    transmission failure @ 90,000 miles
    bad engine noises
    serious brake problems both front & rear
    Dakota:
    transmission failure @ 60,000 miles
    bad engine noises
    suspension problems
    Jeep Wrangler (bought new in 1988)
    engine failure @ 39,000 miles
    I also have to agree with those who have experienced other dealers refusing to take Chrysler products as trade-ins.
    Unfortunately, it seems that Chrysler's plan is to produce vehicles which are appealing on the showroom floor but which don't stand up to day to day use.
    This is sad because I genuinely liked all of these vehicles...I just can't afford them.
  • danodwdanodw Posts: 63
    Now my AC has gone out. The light on the snow flake button blinks off and on. When it blinks off the AC stops cooling and blinks back on it starts cooling again. Dam the luck!!! What the hell has D/C done to these Dakotas.
  • Please Help, can anybody with a shop manual direct me to the fuse for the power outlet (if there is one) I have checked the side panel fuse box, and the fuse & relay box under the hood with no luck. The owners manual states the power outlet is run directly from the battery but dosent give any directions to the 20amp fuse.

    I have a 2000 4.7 auto.

    Thanks in advance,

    cowtownkid
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    The BOB shows 2 20 amp fuses feeding the power outlet. Fuse 4 in the Power Distribution Center (under hood near battery)is the primary feed. The feed then goes to a splice S260 where it goes to other places besides the power outlet. There is a fuse labeled "B" in the fuse/relay box (on drivers side of the dash). This is the one that provides power to the power outlet. Either fuse could be burnt out and you would not have power available at the outlet. Hope this helps! Rick
  • Thanks for the response Iowabigguy,

    I went back and checked again... at the PDC my # 4 is a starter relay and no labeling(on backside of cover) for the power outlet. I did check all the 20amps under the hood and all seemed ok. At the access panel on drivers side, I have a 15 amp for the cigar lighter but no labeling for the power outlet. I checked all fuses in this panel anyway and all ok. I wonder if there is some kind of fusible link in the wire leading to the outlet?

    Thanks again

    cowtownkid
  • stevedktstevedkt Posts: 1
    I looked at a used 99 Dakota today. I noticed the oil pressure fluctuates with engine speed. It seems to stay within the acceptable range. At idle it's a little lower than the middle mark. When driving it was midway between the middle and high marks. My Ranger is rock steady at any speed. Is this normal for a Dakota or is something wrong. (V6)
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Posts: 145
    I have a 2001 so my wiring may be different but the fuse for the Power outlet on my truck is in the PDC. 2o Amp, left row, center fuse. As Iowabigguy said ; the #4. Mine are lettered so it is "D". On the inside of the cover it is listed as 20AmpPW Out. Hope this helps. I only have one fuse so DC may have decided to save a few more pennies and eliminated it for 2001. The same fuse also feeds the center power outlet in the console.
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    Oil Pressure Reading Is normal for my Dakota. At idle it's a little lower than the middle mark. When driving it was midway between the middle and high marks.
  • jebsdaddyjebsdaddy Posts: 52
    It is normal for the oil pressure to increase as the rpm increases because the oil pump is mechanically linked to the engine. Faster rpm = more pressure. The reason the Ford oil pressure needle stays the same is because ford uses a gauge that is more like an idiot light than a real gauge. The ford gauge is either on or off like an idiot light and does not really record the real change in pressure. This is a cost savings for ford because the gauge is an idiot type gauge while looking like a real gauge. I read this in one of those question/answer sections of a car magazine.
  • Thanks, Bcarter3, I looked again, In the pdc I have a 50amp fuse in slot # 14. It's label is
    "50 amp PWR OUT EBL" on the far left row all slots are relays (four of them). I guess I will go to the auto store and buy one of the big square see thru 50 amps and replace it even though there is no sign of failure. I can also replace every "spade" type 20amp fuse though I have checked all I could find and all look ok. If anybody else knows where I may look I will sure give it a try.

    I have a 2000 4.7 Auto quad cab.

    Thanks again,

    cowtownkid
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Posts: 145
    Cowtownkid: I think that the 50 Amp fuse you are looking at is for the Rear Window Defog. I have a 40 Amp fuse in that position but since I don't have the Defog option I don't have the relay. The Power Outlet fuse I was referring to is one of the small fuses. There are two rows of seven slots for fuses. Some are empty. Left row, fourth fuse from left side of truck. If the fuse is good then maybe the connector on the back of the Outlet was not secured and has fallen off. Checking that probably will require taking off the lower trim panel. That is complicated because you will have to removed a lot of other parts just to get access to the fasteners. Hope it is the fuse!!!!!
  • Thanks again bcarter3, but I give up! Guess I'll take it to the dealor as my truck is still under warranty. Oh well, if this is the only problem I need to deal with (other than the common brake rotor warpage) I'll consider myself fortunate.

    cowtownkid
  • sacprofsacprof Posts: 8
    Hi, I have a 97 4x4, ex cab, auto, 65kmiles. There is a problem with the low beams operating only when the tilt wheel is in up position. Hope someone can help with a couple questions. I have the cowl off behind the steering wheel and wanted to take off the multi-function switch to check it and/or the wiring connector and wires near the connector. The screws holding the switch on are the torx type, but these have small posts in the middle where the screwdriver would fit. Is this a standard tool available at sears or is this a 'special tool' only the dealer tech has? Has anyone experienced this problem before? I haven't a service manual, but will probably ned one before too long. Are these still available for a 97, will it have wiring schematics, and where can I get one? I would appreciate any suggestions. Hope someone is still listening, no posts here for almost two weeks. Thanks
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Posts: 145
    Sacprof, I think what you have are security fasteners. You will need a torx tool with a hole in the end. These tools are not available everywhere but can be found. Some hardware stores stock them. I found some at Northerntool.com. The shop manual for your truck can be ordered from Dyment Distribution Services at 1-800-890-4038. It will include all wiring information. Probably will cost around $90 plus shipping. I'm sure the others will agree that it is worth the money. Good luck, Dick
  • sacprofsacprof Posts: 8
    That's exactly what I need to know. I'll order the service manual today.
  • tom195tom195 Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Dakota club cab 4x4 with 21000 miles.I recently took it to have it nys inspected and was shown that the upper ball joints need replacing.having a3/36 warranty I contacted the service department about the ball joints.I was told there has to be .060 wear before chrysler will consider replacing them. Has anyone had this problem with their 2000 Dakota
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Tom, you did not mention as to whether you truck did not pass the state inspection. If it did not pass, then lean on the dealer to correct the problem now. If it did pass, make certain that you have documentation that the dealer looked at it and would not correct it. Sounds like bull to me.

    Bookitty
  • danodwdanodw Posts: 63
    Haven't had your problem yet. Have had many others. I read all your post and I have had the trans problem.
    D/C and its dealers are very hard to deal with. TThey will wear you out before anything is done. THis is my second Dodge and my last. I don't know whats wrong with this CO. but its way too much trouble. I'll drive mine until the warranty is almost up and then I will get rid of it and never deal with them agian. Its easyier to just put the bad word out on D/C than it is too go though all the trouble. Once they fall the goverment will help them get back on their feet and maybe stop all the problems... not. Good luck
  • tom195tom195 Posts: 3
    about the upper ball joints on my 2000 dakota 4x4. the dealer checked them out and showed me that there is no side to side movement in the ball joint but there is a little up and down which is normal they said. a brand new one is loose.I was told that D/C designs the ball joint to be loose.with the truck on a lift they also showed me that the front rotors on the inside are all rusty,like the brake pad does not even hardly touch the rotor.3/36 warranty do not cover this repair.they will have to turned or replaced which i will do myself.along with new pads which are probabily messed up due to the scale on the rotors.
  • flashf2flashf2 Posts: 1
    Wow, you have a couple of brake problems and your truck is totally junk? Do you think any vehicle would make you happy? They all have their little problems.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    If you go back and read all of Danny's posts, you would agree that he has a lemon. His woes are not related entirely to the brakes, I think his truck is possessed.
  • furrydog1furrydog1 Posts: 35
    mullins87 is right, danodw has gone into extreme detail to list all of his problems in numerous posts so the last thing we need is to rehash all of these problems again. It would be nice to hear from more owners that have had mostly positive experiences with their QUAD. I've got 8K miles on mine and haven't had any problems yet. Then again, I'm not much of a motorhead so there could be lots of squeaks, groans, rattles and hiccups that a more tuned in owner would notice. If the truck starts and gets me to where I'm going I'm usually happy.
  • jebsdaddyjebsdaddy Posts: 52
    I've been happy
  • danodwdanodw Posts: 63
    Thanks for remembering my past post. Your right, I don't really want to re-open that can of worms. Those that don't know what I are others have said, well sorry, those that do know, enough said. I have had problems with other vehicles but not like this one. I'm 45 and have had many new and used cars and trucks. This is the first lemon. I will try to re frame from my past. I should have told tom that others who had brake and rotor problems including myself have got them replaced under warranty, but you really have to push them. I am burn out on the bad stuff so lets hear the good stuff. So, what are the best tires for a Dakota Q/C, 4.7, H/duty tire and handling package, limited slip rear end, auto trans. I have the 16'stock wide tire and they are ready to be replace. I like a smooth ride some dirt rode riding, rain, and heat, once are twice a year about 3 to 4 days of snow and ice. Living and driving in East Texas.
    P.S. Anyone out there care to pray for my 20 year old son I would appreciate it. He was in a bad motorcycle wreck last night and had to have surgery, plates, pins, screws, bad road rash, knee etc. I've been up for about 30 hours and headed back to hospital. His name is Mike. He's a very good Son, never in trouble, College boy, full time worker, pays his own way.
  • mailman54mailman54 Posts: 111
    Danny, sorry to hear about your son. That's really a bummer. My wife and I will include your son in our prayers and hope for his speedy recovery. I have had my share of accidents with motorcycles myself and know it can be a scary thing. Hang in there.

    Mailman
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Being a motorcyclist myself, it always hurts to hear of a brother going down. Mike will be in my thoughts and prayers. God bless!
  • danodwdanodw Posts: 63
    .Thanks for your support. I know this is a Dakota site but had to tell the story. A car pulled right out in front of him. Someone said driver was on a cell phone. Trying to miss the car he thinks he barely clip it and then went down. The car did not stop. No one was close enough to tell a lis # are make. Seems if someone saw the driver on a cell phone they would at lease know the color of the car. We brought him home today. One surgery and more to come on his arm and knee. Bad bad road rash all over. Going to live but want be able to work for 3 to 6 months. Says he doesn't want to get back on one again. I learned one thing, my Dakota problems are not big enough for me to worry about and to keep on caring on about the same thing. Life's too short. Enjoy everyday you can and think GOD for what you do have.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    to chew deck screws and shoot every SOB I see driving with one of those things stuck to the side of their head!!!!!!! It used to be "blue hairs" driving land barges were our #1 worst fear, then along came teenage girls, but now it is anyone, any age, with a cell phone.

    Say that the person didn't even stop to see if your son was alive or not?? I wonder how many of your son's motorcycle riding buddies are riding around looking for cars with damage consistant with his accident. Did any of the paint of the other car come off on the bike? Nobody with that little respect for human life should be on the road!!!
  • danodwdanodw Posts: 63
    It drives me nuts when I see someone who can't drive and has a cell phone stuck in their ear. There was a little red paint on the front of the bike. Everybody's looking. If it was a cell phone driver and since they didn't stop, at least they could have dialed 911 and got him some help. Others did stop and help.
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