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Dodge Dakota Problems. Please help!

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  • glzr2glzr2 Posts: 70
    It figures. On the QC owners board, I recently posted how pleased I am with my '02 QC. Well... this morning, I jumping in a started down the road. Like clockwork, at 15mph, the doors locked. Only difference was, they immediately unlocked. I used the power door lock button to lock them again, and they unlocked. This went on for many miles... me locking the doors with the key fob, button, and just manually locking them. The truck just didn't want to stay locked. I even pulled over, got out, and got back in, started the engine, took off, and at 15mph the doors didn't lock. I gave up and the rest of the ride to work, the door locks just kept clicking... over and over again. I dropped it off at the dealer and I am waiting to see how the exorcism is going.
  • glzr2glzr2 Posts: 70
    I picked up Eda about half an hour ago. The dealer had to order power lock switches and they will take two to three days for delivery. In the mean time, I'm stuck with the switches which constantly click unlocked. Neither the owners manual nor the fuse panels tell which fuse is the power door locks. I want to pull the fuse and manually lock the doors so that my truck isn't unlocked while parked at work or in the driveway overnight. I called the dealer, but the one guy that can help is with a customer and who knows when he will call back. I need help... I will be leaving work soon, so anyone with a BOB or someone who knows which fuse kills the power locks... please let me know.
  • glzr2glzr2 Posts: 70
    BTW... I had the dealer look into the clicking in the front end during slow sharp turns. They lubed up the front end, but if it starts again, I'll mention the NHTSA bulletin.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I have driven several 3.9 V6s, a 318 (5.2) and recently purchased a 4.7 V8 Club Cab.

    I've heard a number of people say they are getting the same or only slightly better gas mileage than I am with my 4.7. So far I'm getting anywhere from 16.5 around town to a high of 21.87 on Interstate driving (using the cruise control).

    I think the V6 will do better than that, but I also think that when driven in a more lively manner, the V6 may do no better than the 4.7. Under an easier driver you probably will see +2 mpg better from a V6.

    Like Henne, I think the 3.9 would be adequate for most people, but for towing I think the 4.7 will be better appreciated by most. The 4.7 is pretty close to the older 318 performance wise for towing. The 4.7 seems to have just a tad less low-end torque, but seems to have a noticeably much wider torque band and pulls steadily through the RPM range.

    This may sound strange, bhe one disadvantage about the 4.7 in my opinion is the exhaust sound. No, it's not loud or anything. But from the cab it sounds like a vehicle with sweetly tuned dual exhaust. I say this is a disadvantage because I've riden with a couple of Dakota 4.7 owners and you can quickly tell they like that sound as they are always pulling RPMs through the shifts just to hear it. This is not good driving technique for maximizing gas mileage!

    I've had five people test drive my new Dakota and to a person the exhaust sound was the very first thing they commented on. My daughter (yes, my daughter!) kept spinning the tires on her test drive, which sort of annoyed me. It is easy to tweak the tires, despite mine having limited slip and 16 inch wheels, and I've done it unintentionally a few times myself.

    Good luck on your decision.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Need info on this motor in the DAK QC. Somewhat concerned, since it it the former 360 as compared to the newer 4.7L. Any advantage over the 4.7L . Opinions on the need for more power vs the fuel mileage and reliability of both engines. Thanks.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The 360 is a torque motor. It would do better with a lower numerical axle ratio, but I think the lowest you can get it with in a Dakota is 3.55:1. As others are telling you they are strong and very reliable. It would not be the most economical choice. If you are planning on towing near the maximum of the Dakota's ability a lot of the time, it might be something to consider.

    But if your towing requirements are intermittent, the 4.7 would be more than enough in my opinion.

    Dusty
  • I have been reading this board for a year now. I just want to say one thing and you will
    never here from me again. I have an o1 Dakota Q/C, 4.7 with all the bells and whistles. I
    love the appearance, size and power. This truck and many other dodge products are put
    together with very low quality equipment, bad service etc. They are for the most part
    JUNK. This truck and other dodge products has the appearance, power etc. but does not
    have the quality and service that it deserves. It has features to be the number one truck of
    all time, why would DC push such low quality and service. I know some have no problems
    but there are too many others who are and the % of bad is more than the % of good. The
    one's with no problems, you are lucky but you might not be so lucky on your next trade in.
    I love Dodge but can't throw my money away on a chance with them again. I've never
    broke down but have had many many other problems. Too much to list. A very long story
    that has been said many times on this site by many difference people. I will not post again
    so don't ask me anything. Said what I needed to say. Go ahead and dog me. Best of luck
    to all of you, God bless and Happy Holidays.
  • glzr2glzr2 Posts: 70
    Posting #682-684. Can anyone with a shop manual or knowledge tell me what fuse to pull to kill the power door locks????? I'm desperate to the point I have to pull the battery cable every time I park. It's the only way to stop the truck from continuously unlocking even when parked. bookitty? iowabigguy? The parts aren't coming in for a couple more days and I need an easier way to kill the door lock switches!!!!!!
  • jhorljhorl Posts: 89
    Well I crawled under the truck the other day and after pushing up and down on the truck I Isolated the squeak to the stabilizer bar bushings at the lower control arm. I removed, lubricated and reinstalled them and the squeak is gone, for now anyway.
    John
  • Remember in previous posts the fuse relay block up under the dash, The one we were looking for to get power to the 12volt power outlet??? Well there is a relay in there that is called the driver unlock relay. I don't know if this is strictly for the drivers door or controls all the doors. This as far as I can see is your only option. The power door locks are powered directly without inline fuses by the Central Timer Module. You cant unplug this module because it runs all kinds of important circuits to include air bags and your instrument cluster. I kinda doubt the vehicle would even run. There are 5 fuses that provide power to the Central Timer Module however the circuit diagrams don't provide enough information to tell if one of these would disable the power lock circuit by itself. If you feel like experimenting they are numbered as 4, 6, 11, 13 & 17. All are located in the junction block on the drivers side of the dash (with the drivers door open) I believe the following functions are assigned to the fuses as: 4 = wipers, 6 = headlight flasher/horns, 11 = fused ignition switch output, 13 = power locks???, & 17 = instrument cluster.
    Hope this helps!!! Bill goes to Bookitty, right??? Rick
  • My heart goes out to you. It is unfortunate your Dakota has been a disappointment to you. I really feel Dodges quality is up there with the rest of the industry. I think what gives some people a bad experience is the dealership and a poor service department. Rick
  • Good Luck, John; I really hope that works for you. In my case, the sway bar bushings on my QC were lubed and the annoying intermittent squeaky noises returned in about 2 months.(see #673) BTW, I'm also a little puzzled with the documented NHTSA TSB Bulletin #1900900. Apparently, it states that a specific part in the steering column was incorrectly installed at the factory; however, there are no squeaks or noises coming from the column itself. I'm sure the squeaks are coming from the lower steering components. My QC is scheduled to have this part removed & re-installed correctly this Friday. I sure hope this fix resolves the squeaks. I'll provide an update to this thread next week.

    In the meantime, do any other owners have this squeaky steering problem? Comments please...
    Thank you in advance.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Gordon, Rick, who the heck is bill?

    Bookitty
  • Hi folks. My 2001 QC (approx 30k miles) is in the shop for a squeaky front end. I lubed all of the front end bushings as well as the sway bar bushings to no avail; so I took it in under warranty. I suspected a ball joint on the driver's side; but was told that it appears to be the driver's side hub assembly. I'm supposed to get it back this afternoon; we'll see what pans out. Good luck with your trucks. Regards, Steve
  • glzr2glzr2 Posts: 70
    Thanks Rick. I've pulled every fuse in the junction block to no avail. Like I said, the dealer is going to replace the switches, but I'm worried that something is wrong with the program, or now I'm worried that there is something wrong with the CTM. Not so much with the CTM because everything else is working. Dick posted on how to pull the ground, but I am using that as a last resort. I am hoping the parts come in today and I can take Eda into the dealer.

    I appreciate everyone’s input as I hoped for an easy fix to an annoying problem while waiting for the parts.

    These things happen and it has not deterred my opinion of the vehicle.

    Since I couldn’t send bill via mail (postage was too expense) I put him on the train to PA.
  • glzr2glzr2 Posts: 70
    Ok, since I can't kill the door locks without disarming the entire electrical system or pulling body panels looking for the ground... I pulled everything out of the truck that someone might pilfer (hoping the truck itself isn't boosted) and I simply pulled the fuse for the interior lights (fuse #1 I think). Now, when the truck is parked outside at night and the damn doors unlock, the lights won't go on announcing to everyone that the truck is unlocked. I can't believe it has taken the dealer all week to get parts in. Is this typical?
  • I got my QC back from the dealer yesterday and the squeaks and clunks are gone. It was a bad hub assembly. Glad it was on DC's dime. Regards, Steve
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Is your Dakota a 4x4 or a 4x2?

    thanks,
    Dusty
  • jhorljhorl Posts: 89
    Its been a couple weeks and the squeaks are still gone. I hope that is all it was because My Quad and I are on our own. She turned 36,000 miles back in October. I give her a little pat on her nose everynight and hope to remain trouble free.
    John
  • Got my 2001 2WD QC back late Friday after servicing under TSB #1900900. The Dealer advises that my vehicle did not exhibit the squeaks when they tested it in the parking lot. They emphasized that the TSB they applied may not resolve the problem. Guess what...the squeaks returned on Sunday (in 2 days time).

    This is the 3rd attempt to resolve this squeaky noise problem in 9 months. On the first visit, they lubed all the bushings and the squeaks returned in a couple of months. On the 2nd visit, they said the noises are normal and no Bulletins out for this problem. On the 3rd visit, they found the TSB and applied it and this is where we are today.

    These "intermittent" squeaks are NOT the normal power steering sounds that can usually be heard. They are not popping sounds either. I'm really frustrated now with these annoying intermittent squeaks. Squeaks are also heard (emitting from the rear?) when backing up in reverse during a slight turn out of the driveway. Could the bolts securing the pickup box be loose and causing these noises?

    Does anyone have any new suggestions? Help...

    Bill
This discussion has been closed.