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Chevy Tracker

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  • scottybkscottybk Posts: 3
    Hi All

    Wow! What a great Forum, I had no idea you were here, but I'm glad I found you. I have been looking through the 50+ pages trying to find some answers for a problem I'm having with my '97 Sidekick Sport 1.8L. It's a great rig in all regards but it has developed what I believe is called "spark knock". It is an automatic with 93,000 miles on it and less than 10,000 miles on a major tune-up. The problem has just cropped up and is very annoying. I feel that it does hinder its performance a bit and it is noisy. Has anyone else experienced this problem and if so were there any ways to fix it? I have tried running higher octane fuel (89) but that seems to make no difference. Any thoughts or ideas are great appreciated, thanks for your time

    Scott
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    i was wondering if this would helpyou at all. in my tracker i have ran a product called SEAFOAM in my gas tank. and my tracker loves it. perks it up. 1 oz per gallon..

    http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpConsumer.htm
  • cardorcardor Posts: 6
    The dealer changed the fan and fan switch and also the o rings in the compressor also there's a in line fuse to the compressor that blows if freon gets too low protecting the compressor, and a couple of high pressure lines and added freon. The cost was $400.
  • harold3harold3 Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 1.6 I replaced fuel pump did not help. I found it is the camshaft position sensor. It happens when air cond. is running engine is hotter then. Pour water on it to cool and it will start. Chevy can not get it (so the say). I just ordered one from RockAuto.com chevy part# 91175909 or ACDelco213933 $68. or Beck Arnley Part# 1800303 $44 Standard Part #PC226 #59. Has to be adjusted on 2.0 engine.
  • "Intermittent problem" is a dirty combination of words to a mechanic. This problem of not starting has happened twice to my wife. Every time I arrive on the scene, the car magically starts. The first time I bought a $100 code retriever, $20 fuel filter, and the $20 air filter. I installed all the parts but did not use the code retriever just yet. Well the car worked fine for a couple of weeks and then right in the middle of the bank line the car started missing real bad and died, but would not start back up. Off to the fire I went and again as soon as I arrived my wife had it started up again running just fine. We swapped vehicles and I took it home and this time I opened my new toy (code retriever) and hooked it up. NO CODES!!!! I am panicking at this point not knowing what is wrong. I calmed down and went through a visual check and found nothing unhooked or out of place. I next did the "touchy-feely" test. While the engine was running I grabbed all the connectors one at a time and gave them a wiggle and a slight tug. Everything was great until I grabbed the camshaft position sensor and wiggled it and then the car died. I did this several times over to confirm what I had found. This connector is roughly 1/2 inch deep and shouldn't loose electical conductivity until it is removed at least a 1/4 inch. I pulled the sensor out and inspected it. I went immediately to the parts store and got a manual in hopes it would tell how to test the sensor but had no such luck. I also went ahead and picked up some dielectric grease. I cleaned out the connector and the sensor plug-in with compresed air. I tried to bend the female socket leads so they would fit tighter but they are too small to fit any tools down in. I put just a sliver of the grease on each male lead and then put it back together. After that I took two 4 inch black uv resistant zip ties and I locked the connector together as tight as the zip ties would go. So far we have not had any problems, but I am planning on replacing the $88 camshaft sensor for peace of mind. I saw another post where someone stated their mechanic diagnosed the camshaft sensor as the culprit. I currently am trying to locate a diagnostic procedure for that sensor as well as a possible Technical Service Bulletin for this problem. We bought ours brand new in 2000 and I love the car, but I can't have my wife and kids stranded in constant 98 degree weather in Southeast Texas. I hope this helps.
  • What has to be adjusted on the 2.0? The sensor just pops in a hole with a bolt. From what I can see, as long as one doesn't move that adjustment housing the sensor fits in, then a simple swap should do. Right?
  • englishemenglishem Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Tracker. For about a month now I have had to fight with it to get the key to turn all the way off so I can remove the key. I tried my other key and it does the same thing. Sometimes I even have to use a pair of pliers to turn it hard enough to get the key out. I finally took it to the Chevy dealer who said it needs a new ignition lock cylinder and will cost $593.11 to repair. I asked if I had any other options and he said the part can only be obtained through GM. Is this something that could be fixed at PepBoys or somewhere like that for less expense? I waited too late to call them tonight but I need to figure out what to do. Has anyone else had this same problem?
    Thanks.
  • harold3harold3 Posts: 6
    You are right. I went back and checked book on 2.0 it does not mention a adj. Also rockauto.com does not have ACDelco in stock I ordered a standard brand which is in stock. Any idea why this sensor will not trip check engine light.
  • There was a recall or Tech Service Bulletin on this problem having to do with the defective cylinder. We have a 2000 model and it did this to us in our third year. Ours was still under warranty so it cost nothing, but in my opinion since this is a recognized manufacturer defect, the dealer should not charge you.
  • Not sure on why it isn't tripping the light. How long have you had your new sensor in? GM will sell you one for the 2.0 at the tune of $240 but you have to buy the whole assembly(the part that you adjust) that bolts to the back of the head just to get the sensor. I just picked mine up today from Auto Zone for $88 and was expecting just the sensor, but it too was the whole adjustable assembly that had been remanufactured. I only pray that the sensor part is truly brand new as it looked a little scuffed. This is from Wells (manufacture of aftermarket parts). If the problem occurs again I guess we will take it back to Autozone(3 month warranty) and go ahead and buy the assembly from GM knowing it will be brand new(I hope).
  • harold3harold3 Posts: 6
    Have not received new sensor yet. For the quick fix I carry a water bottle when it quits I douse it with water to cool (Camshaft Sensor). I checked rockauto.com. the 2.0 is not same as 1.6. The 2.0 comes with the adj. housing lists for $119 new one half Chevy' price . rockauto.com 2.0 Part # Standard PC432 searched under ignition. I also removed and cleaned all grounding points. Seems to helped, not sure yet Temp. has to be hot to act up
  • jimmijimmi Posts: 1
    DRL "removal": Pull daylight sensor up out of dash (black round object on right side of dash near up to winshield. Prise it carefully with a flat (preferably non-metallic) blade. A wire harness is connected at the bottom. Disconnect this from the sensor. This disables the DRL. Light will operate "normally" with the switch on the stalk.

    Mine needs somewhat bright sunlight to decide the sun is up.

    Sorry I did not read about the ignition switch before - mine had same problem. However, a dollop of GRAPHITE (i.e. a dry lubricant), seems to have made it useable.
  • loadoffunloadoffun Posts: 1
    I have purchased a 1999 Tracker, so far I just love the little thing... When we bought it did not come with factory A/C. It has 1.6L 5 speed manual transmissiion.

    I would like to look that possiblility to adding A/C to it. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appericated...

    Thanks,
  • ntimpntimp Posts: 4
    One more goofy problem..the plastic piece that holds the front soft top onto the car broke apart where it snaps onto the roof screws..anyone know where I can get one..dealer only or aftermarket somewhere..but don't know part no. or if it's even available..thanks
  • cardorcardor Posts: 6
    I see them for sale on ebay once in a while. Type in 'chevrolet tracker' or 'chevy tracker' .Usually not to expensive.
  • Hi there. I have a 03 Tracker 4x4. I bought it brand new but after I had it for about 2 months something started making a squeeking or grinding noise {sounds like a belt but it is not a belt}. The noice is there sort of in cycles. The noise is sort of more intense when the a/c or heater are on. When I turn the a/c off, the noice is still there but in longer cycles if you know what I mean. I also found out that the noice stops when I change the gear from D to P. I am not a mechanic so I dont even know how to describe it properly. I took the car to 3 or 4 Chevy shops but the mechanics did not hear anything. Of course - there is still a warranty on the car. Would anyone be able to let me know what it is {if you have experienced anything like that before} so that I can just go to the shop and tell them what to check? It would be a great help as I hate to drive a car that is squeeking and I paid quite a bit of money for that.
    Thank you
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    Hi! First time being here so bare with me please. Truck has 10,000 kms and is stored in the winter due to salt. When engaging 4wd the dash light "4WD" blinks once every two seconds. I drove straight down the road with 4wd engaged, light kept blinking. Pulled over on a steep hill onto gravel and engaged 4wd acelerated medium hard, front axle was engaged as I detected no wheelspin. I have the GM shop manuals and have found no explaintion for blinking light in shop or owners manual. Thanks,
  • okrafeetokrafeet Posts: 14
    Well, I wish I had known you when I had that problem since I live in SW Louisiana RedBuggyBoy. The problem turned out to be the Cam Shaft Position sensor but the only one of four mechanics who could find it was the actual Chevy dealer. I didn't want to have to bring it there. Cost a total of $695.00.
    Mine is a 2000 as well though I bought it used with only 12,000 miles. The problem didn't start happening for a year and a half. And as you said, no one can afford to be stranded in hot weather which is all we have here most of the year.
  • rem05rem05 Posts: 3
    fan motor is bad
  • jwc1jwc1 Posts: 1
    I have now replaced three distributors. First one that was ordered the mechanic said it was no good and reorder. The next one lasted for 700 miles. The third one lasted for one startup. Our mechanic tells us we are just getting bad rebuilt distributors. Is this the case or could there be another problem? It is a 4cylinder automatic. If it is the distributors, where can you buy one that will last?
  • redbuggyboy, where is the sensor that you douse with water to cool? My car is doing the exact same thing, but I don't know where the sensor is. I hope this is an easy question to answer. Thanks in advance for any replies!
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    Hi. I am certain this has been tried but you never know. When modern a/c systems run low on charge the computer will lock down the compressor until the charge has been replaced and the circuit breaker reset, often found in the engine compartment. Good luck poorcruiser
  • harold3harold3 Posts: 6
    On my 1.6 2000 it is located on top of engine left side behind valve cover. It has one black ground wire on top and a plug connector. It is connected with 1 10mm bolt no adjustments. On the 2.0 it is on the right side and in some type of housing , which might need a adjustment to replace Recommend you get a motor manual if it is a 2.0 engine, a 1.6 is a 2 minute simple job to change. Check out rockauto.com much cheaper and faster.
  • I removed the drive belt from my 01’ Tracker, 4-cyl w/AC to replace it. Guess what? There isn’t a sticker to show it’s routing, and the Haynes manual I have isn’t worth the paper it’s written on. Can someone please give me a diagram of the routing of this belt, I keep coming up with the appearance that the belt is too long and it’s the exact match to what came off. :confuse: and :sick:
  • I want to get some bigger tires and wheels for my 99 tracker conv. How big of a wheel and tire can i got before i start having problems with them. If anyone knows where i can get good looking off-road rims for bout 500-600 plz tell me, I am planning on putting BFG All-terrain T/A's on it and i am on a budget thanks
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    on my 1999 2 door tracker i have 215/70/15 tires on my tracker. i read somewhere about someone installing 235/70/15 but it rubbed when he made turns..
  • Hi, new to the discussion, wondering if you've had any problems in regards to adjusting the sensor, or if you've even had to adjust it at all. If so, any info on how to do the adjustment? I've just started having the same problems, unfortunately, I've already ordered a new fuel pump and filter. Being stationed in Sicily is a drag with respect to dealing with mechanics. Now that I've read this discussion, I'm pretty sure it's going to turn out to be the sensor. However, before I buy one, I was hoping for some amplifying info. Anything you can tell me would be a huge help. Thanks
  • rem05rem05 Posts: 3
    On my 1.6 liter 99 model Tracker, you do not have to adjust. Not sure about the 2.0 liters. It took about 10 minutes to replace. Have not had the problem since.

    RM
  • leideileidei Posts: 2
    :sick: Help Please!!! I took my 2000 Tracker to the dealership for a tune up. They are telling me that I need new spark plugs, PCV valve, Front and Rear U joints, differential flush, fuel filter, and cooling flush. I live in Cleveland and am having trouble finding a manual for my car. Realistically how much of this can I do myself? The dealership wants $990.00 plus labor.
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    how many miles do youhave on your tracker. i have a 1999 tracker 4x4 and i never needed my u-jointed replaced. ihave 75000 miles and i have done heavy offroading. everything else other than the ujoints are very easy to do on a tracker. the raditor flush is very easy! the front and rear diff;s are even easy. the fuel filter is right next to the tank if you look under ur tracker. i just changed mine for the 3rd time a few months back. when i first purchased my tracker (used) i did a trany,engine, front and rear diff and transfer case fuild change. all of what i listed was easy. man you can get away with doing everything that you listed Minus the u-joints for around $100 depending on the oil you use. i used amsoil so that costs alot more. If you arent needed ujoints then your garage is taking advantage of you BIG TIME....
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