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Chevy Tracker

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  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    i remember when i was looking for my 99 tracker i wanted the stick, but after reading about all the trany problems with the 99's i went with the 4-speed auto. i thought there might have been a recall on that trany or something.?

    chris
  • I too had a squeaking problem emminating from the same area and got progressively worse.

    What I did was douse the center of the belt tensioner with WD-40 a few times to loosen the tensioner. The spring in it freezes up due to rust build-up from the weather or car washes. The noise went away immediately. Once I sprayed it enough and was confident it was working good, I packed the tensioner with bearing grease.

    This will help tensioners last and perform longer.

    As for the belt, always inspect both sides for hairline cracks and replace as soon as you notice some. It will save you from a breakdown or replacing your engine from overheating.
  • nicdbnicdb Posts: 1
    Hi Folks

    Anyone experienced and chaffing/rubbing sounds coming from the front diff when the weather gets below 0?
  • My Sister in law just bought a 2005 Pontiac Montana SV-6 mini van. What a piece of crap, 8,000 Km's or 5,000 miles and she is already going through the G.M arbritration process. GOOD LUCK!
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    I have a 2004 LT v6 4x4 that is just about to the 15,000 mile scheduled maintanence mark. The book calls for changing the differential fluids and the transfer case. It is driven 80% highway and 20% city. Has anyone else had this service done so soon. I would think you could go 30,000 like the transmission before changing any fluids. Any input would be appreciated. So far only things done have been oil changes every 3,000 and tire rotations every 6,000 since the dealer does them for free. No problems and average 20-21 mpg whether in 2wd or 4wd doesn't seem to make a big difference.
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    I have a 2001 Tracker 2.0L 4cyl. I feel silly for asking this question but I didn't see the answer in any previous post. Since the Tracker doesn't use plug wires, what is the proper method in removing the wires to change the spark plugs? I see that there is one small bolt holding the assembly at each cylinder. Do I just take out the bolt and lift? I just don't want to break anything. :blush:
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    for changing the sparkplugs you use a 8mm socket or wrench and remove that bolt holding the coil packs to the valve cover. then you pull UP. i changed my plugs a few times.. the one plug under the crossover bar i had to use a swivel on my rachet in order too get that one plug out..

    chris
  • The sticker on the center console that shows how to switch to and from 4 wheel drive is faded out to where it is unreadable. Where can I get a new sticker? I tried 1 Chevy dealer and he could not find it in his parts listings.
  • mhall1mhall1 Posts: 7
    I have a 97 Tracker with the same problem. Did you ever find out what the problem was? This has been going on for 2 months and now the engine light came on. Thanks Mike
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    Thanks for info! I figured it was that easy but you just never know sometimes.
  • I’m having a problem with the lights on my 1997 GEO Tracker. When I’m driving during the daytime the Daylight Running Lights come on which is normal, but when I push the brake pedal the lights in the Radio dim like they do when I turn on the Headlights (but I have not turned them on) and the front and rear Hazard Lights come on. When I release the brake pedal the Radio lights and Hazard lights return to normal. I called the local Chevrolet Dealer Service Center Office and asked the Shop Foreman there what could be causing that problem and how could I correct it. He said that I must have a bad ground somewhere and the current is returning through the easiest path it can find and sometimes it is very difficult to find it. I have Multi-Meters and Continuity Testers that I can use to locate the bad ground. My questions are as follows:
    1). Has anyone experienced this type of problem?
    If so, how did you find and correct the problem?
    2). Any suggestions on where to start and how to proceed?
    3). Any Ideas, radical or not, would be greatly appreciated!
  • woody72woody72 Posts: 73
    From another forum someone with a '95 said he had a similar problem and it turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator. I have only had it happen a couple of times now. I'm making sure all my basics are up to date; fuel filter, plugs, etc and I've added a gas dryer to the fuel to absorb any water in the system. Intermittant problems are the hardest to diagnose. Let me know what you have tried.
  • mhall1mhall1 Posts: 7
    I just tried throttle body spray cleaner and it seems to have done the job. It took alot of cranking to get it started but it hasn't died out yet. The engine sensor lite also just came on today (it's been dying out at idle only when warm for a month or so). I took it to AutoZone and they put their code reader on it and they said it came up a code 32 I think, o2 sensor. Unfortunately it has two of them I guess. I could disc the batt to clear it but would the light come back on if the o2 sensor is bad? Thanks, Mike
  • mhall1mhall1 Posts: 7
    I forgot to mention that for the last month I've had to crank the engine a while to get it started and maybe give it gas too (only when it is warm). It doesn't die now but it seems to have to be cranked a while to start. What could cause that? It has a new air cleaner, cap, rotor and new Irium plugs. It seems to start fine/easy when cold (I live in Chicago) Thanks, Mike
  • Since you have cleaned out your throttle body I am assuming you have fuel injectors not some sort of carburetor/fuel injection. You also don't state your mileage but have you had a professional clean your fuel injection system? Injectors will have deposits from gas build up on them, over time it interrupts the spray pattern and the amount of fuel and also fuel economy. If because of a bad spray pattern there is alot of unburnt fuel entering your exhaust it could cause the failure of your 02 sensor.

    A bad 02 sensor will be sending the wrong info to the engine management computer causing a rich or lean mixture. They are not expensive parts to fix.
  • Hi I have an 03 rig and have done that maintainance. Go to page 57 and look for the Canadian flags for oil info and amounts. A couple things to mention The Amsoil oil is GL-1 to GL-5 compatible so it will work in your rig. If you do the work yourself which is very easy as Amsoil also sell a pump kit with it's oil, the rear axle will not take the full 2.3 liters as it seems no matter how you drain it some oil remains.
  • mhall1mhall1 Posts: 7
    My 97 Tracker has 75,000 miles. I've never had a problem with it before. No I've never had the injectors cleaned but I have ran fuel injector cleaner and SeaFoam thru it. Today I had it out and it again starts okay when cold but has to crank when warm. It also idles okay for a few minutes then dies out of no where. I thought maybe by running the throttle body cleaner thru several times it might have clogged the injectors and/or o2 sensor. The egr valve is down underneath on the right side. What does the egr modulator valve on top in the rear do and should it be replaced along with the egr valve.
  • I have a 2000 soft top and my rear window got slashed. I contacted bestop and they say there is no replacement rear window for that year. I don't want to replace the whole top unless I have to. Does anyone know where I can find one? I have searched the web and local junk yards with no success so far. :confuse:
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    the dealers replacement rear window for the soft top cost as much if not more than the entire soft top kit for the tracker.! i think i priced it at $400 for the rear window.

    chris
  • Yeah, I think I am going to give up on the whole window..and go with the 2 piece hard top. Soon as I sell my other truck and have the cash

    Mike
  • I just had a problem that affected my rear windo defroster reverse lights and turn signals. If I turned on any of these devices all of them came on . I found chaffed wires that short circuited and fused together. the short was behind the gas tank near wear the fuel sender, fuel pump, wires connect to the harness. It sounds to me to be a short because the brakes aer turning on your hazard lights.
  • I have a 2000 Tracker - automatic, and recently I've been having a problem with the button on the gear shift not depressing in order to shift it out of park. When stepping on the brake pedal, they're normally is a "click" indicating that the lock is releasing, allowing the gear shift to be moved out of park, but for the past few months, from time to time, there is no click, meaning the lock isn't being released, and I can't move out of park. I press and press on the brake pedal...turn the tracker off, and back on...one day it took 20 minutes for that lock to release so I could get on my way. I know that it can be done manually by removing a little cover on the console and sticking a finger in the hole to move the lock, but my finger isn't long enough to reach it. I understand this lock can be disabled, that it's mainly a safety thing so a small child can't move the gear shift, and we don't have small children, so I'm leaning towards getting that done. But what can be causing this? It's a PITA, not to mention embarrasing, to sit there for 15 - 20 minutes trying to shift the darn thing out of park!
  • mhall1mhall1 Posts: 7
    I've had the same problem with my 97. I found that if I jiggle the gearshift while hitting the brake it releases. There is a small removable cover on the side of the console that you can reach in and release it manually. I've had the console apart but never really was able to fix it. It's always be intermittent. My wife just told me we discovered a way to make it release every time but I can't think of it right now, it has become automatic I guess, I'll remember it and get back to you. Mike
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    I worked for the company that designed and built this shifter, you have a bad park lock solenoid. The cover on the side is the manual override. It is there to get the vehical out of park so it can be driven to the dealership to be repaired. They can replace the solenoid it is not something you can eliminate. It may even be covered under warrenty due to it being a safety part. You may be able to replace it yourself but it does require removal of the shifter assembly.
  • My 2000 tracker has developed stiff steering over the last month or so. When it first started happening it was only stiff when the car was cold but now it is stiff even after the car warms up and just today the steering has become so stiff that I have to crank the steering wheel with force to make turns. I have had some problems with the car wanting to stall at lights etc. when the engine is cold so I am wondering if it is a power problem. I use the four wheel drive almost all the time in the winter, could this have anything to do with it. Any advice???
  • First check your power steering reservoir. Is there enough fluid is it milky (contaminated with water), brown (burnt) or debris in fluid ( plastic or dirt)? If okay, check level. If level of fluid is okay check all hoses and lines for kinks, if fluid is gone, check system for leaks. If everything is okay so far then it's off to the garage to check the power steering pump for flow. 6.4/7.9 litres per minute or 1.7/2.1 GPM, Pressure Relief 6700/7500 KPA or 972/1088 PSI. I would probably suspect the pump but check the other items first as they are cheaper than a pump. Also if you go to the garage be specific about your symptoms, is your steering harder in only one direction or both. I was assuming both. Your stalling issues could be helped by previous postings. I hope I have helped.
  • woody72woody72 Posts: 73
    My 01 had a somewhat similar steering problem which could prove to be quite dangerous if ignored. My symptoms were steering changed from stiff to normal in short intervals more noticeable at slow speeds. It turned out to be the intermediate steering shaft which has two small u joints integral with the shaft. One u joint was bad. The shaft is dealer only and about $300. Another person posted that his u joint on the steering shaft seized preventing him from moving his steering wheel, almost causing an accident. This may not be your problem, just a heads up to all others with similar symptoms.
  • popovpopov Posts: 1
    I am having problems finding an engine block for my '89. My current block threw a rod through the side. Can I use a short block from another year? Can I use an engine from another year?
    Thank you, Popov
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    The Suzuki G16K Motor 1.6L 8 valve TBI shows no changes in block design from 1989-1995. You should be able to use a short block from any of those years or a complete engine from a Sidekick or Tracker in that year range.
  • I can't engage 4wd on my 2000 Tracker 4-dr (2L 4-cyl). I had it checked out and they say the mechanical bits are working fine. GM says, "front axle actuator pump not getting power" and "PCM shorting out internally." Translation = $$$ which I don't have. Does this mean that the computer is not sending electricity to the switch that locks the front diff to the drive shaft? Can I fix this by wiring my own homemade switch to power the "front axle actuator?" Has anyone done this? Any advice? Thanks.
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