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Chevy Tracker

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  • I had the same issue on my 2002. My first suggestion is take it to a Suzuki dealer, as they are much better at finding the real problem, rather then the GM philosiphy of replace every part in the line, and that should fix it. I eneded up only needing an actuator pump.

    If the PCM is really bad, it will need to be replaced. When you are in 4 wheel drive, the PCM recieves a signal from the pump, and the computer controls the entire drive train differently then if you are in 2 wheel drive.

    The Suzuki dealer told me that a bad pump will many times appear as an internal short in the PCM, so they sggested replacing the pump and see what happens, and again that was all I needed.
  • Anyone know where the coolant drain plug for the block is on a '01 2.0L? Also, does anyone flush their power steering fluid and/or their clutch fluid on a routine basis? I'm approaching 90K miles, have flushed my brake fluid, considering the other two.
  • Looked in the G.M service manual and guess what, there is no engine block drain plug for coolant. If flushing the system, first remove the thermostat from the system. To do this, drain rad by removing drain cock on the bottom of the rad. If your 2.0l has A/C remove serpentine belt and the three bolts holding the A/C compressor to the engine and set the compressor aside. Then remove lower rad hose from thermostat housing and unbolt thermostat housing. Make a mark on both engine and thermostat housing to aid re installation locating. Remove thermostat from housing and reinstall housing, rad hose, A/C compressor, belt and drain cock. Add your flushing agent and I would get a bunch of big bottles of distilled water and fill rad. Once rad is full start engine and run with heater on hot and fan on high. Keep an eye on the thermostat housing as it may leak a bit as there is no rubber seal ring around the thermostat anymore. Let engine run for a while to circulate the coolant and mix it with the water you added. Stop engine, let cool and then drain rad. Repeat this procedure again and again and again until water drained is totally clear. Drain rad a final time and remove thermostat housing and reinstall a brand new thermostat with rubber gasket, making sure housing mating surfaces are free of debris or corrosion. Tighten bolts to 12ft/lbs. Add to rad, 50% of your cooling system capacity of antifreeze and top up system with distilled water. If you use distilled water from the very beggining you will not have to worry about trying to get the tap water out if you use a garden hose. Be sure to clean out your overflow coolant bottle as well and check for leaks.

    As for flushing your power steering and clutch. Power steering not so much but clutch defiantly. Clutch requires two people. One to depress the clutch pedal the other to release the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder or clutch actuator cylinder, found on side of tranmisson. Be sure to tighten screw before person inside vehicle releases pedal. KEEP FLUID FULL in clutch reservoir.

    You could flush the power steering by disconnecting the low pressure line emptying into the power steering reservoir and have it empty into a bucket. One person slowly turns the steering wheel with the engine running all the while the other person holds the low pressure line and adds power steering fluid to the reservoir to avoid air getting in the system. Could be quite the juggling act.
  • i have 02 tracker ihad asimilar problem it was in my wiring harness for trailer lights hope this helps
  • Thanks for the information. I found the problem and corrected it! I noticed there was a problem with some of the lights not working so I checked the bulbs in all of the ones that were not working. All of the bulbs in the four running lights were burned out so I replaced them. The license plate lights were burned out so I replaced them too. The middle rear brake light (the third eye on the top of the rear door) was not working but the bulb was good. Also one of the license plate light was not working even though I had replaced it. So, I got out my trusty multi-meter, removed the paneling from the inside of the rear door and started tracing the circuits. I found that someone must have disconnected the connectors inside the rear door to replace the rear door or to replace something inside of the rear door and when they put it back together they did not make the correct wiring connections. The connectors are of the same type and reconnecting them wrongly can be easily done. And it was also obvious that the color code on the wires do not match when they are connected wrong. Anyway I found that the third eye was swapped with one of the license plate lights and that was why the third eye and the one license plate lights were not working. I swapped the connectors which resulted in color code matching then I tried the lights and the brakes. All of them including the license plate lights and the third eye worked correctly!!! And most importantly it corrected the problem I was having of when I pushed the brake pedal the lights in the Radio dimmed and the front and rear Hazard Lights came on.
    Thanks for your response.
  • As Chief Inspector Jacques Clouseau would say, ”The problem is Solved”! Thanks to all of you for all your helpful replies I found the problem and corrected it! I noticed there was a problem with some of the lights not working so I checked the bulbs in all of the ones that were not working. All of the bulbs in the four running lights were burned out so I replaced them. The license plate lights were burned out so I replaced them too. The middle rear brake light (the third eye on the top of the rear door) was not working but the bulb was good. Also one of the license plate light was not working even though I had replaced it. So, I got out my trusty multi-meter, removed the paneling from the inside of the rear door and started tracing the circuits. I found that someone must have disconnected the connectors inside the rear door to replace the rear door or to replace something inside of the rear door and when they put it back together they did not make the correct wiring connections. The connectors are of the same type and reconnecting them wrongly can be easily done. And it was also obvious that the color code on the wires do not match when they are connected wrong. Anyway I found that the third eye was swapped with one of the license plate lights and that was why the third eye and the one license plate lights were not working. I swapped the connectors which resulted in color code matching then I tried the lights and the brakes. All of them including the license plate lights and the third eye worked correctly!!! And most importantly it corrected the problem I was having of when I pushed the brake pedal the lights in the Radio dimmed and the front and rear Hazard Lights came on.
    Again, Thanks for all of your response.
  • ali11ali11 Posts: 1
    i've got a noise coming from my timing chain area. my boyfriend-who is a mechanic-estimated the price parts and labor at about $1000. what he doesn't know is if it's just a stupid fix or something more major! we can't tell until we tear it apart! has anyone had a similar problem and if so what was the final solution?
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    If you look at the Suzuki Grand Vitara posts there was a problem with the timing chain tensioners from 1999-2002 approx. The fix is over $1000 at the dealer. Someone posted instructions and pictures of the problem and how to fix. I do not remember what post number it is.
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    how many miles does your 99 tracker have? i was wondering about your oil level/ oil change history. the timing chain from what i underfstand is a double steel timing chain. I wonder if noise is oil related. my 99 tracker has 80000 miles and has no engine noises at all. buti also use synthetic oil and religiously change the oil. From what i understand the timing chain is quote (maintance free)

    chris
  • Iam having problems with a automatic transmission value cable that needs to be changed, can I do it myself or do I need to take it to a dealer. Dealer told us it will take them 3 or 4 hrs. to do the job. Need some information on this please.
  • my tracker has 185000 kms on it and there is a flat spot when i accelerate could this be timing chain slack? any info would be greatly appreciated thanks
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    a flat spot can also be a lean/rich mixture. what condition is your air fuel? what about your sparkplugs? when was the last time you ran some fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank? I really doubt that timing Chain is bad. unless you have ran your engine low on oil. you can also just go over the maintance for your engine. check pcv valve, and as i said air filter and so on.

    chris http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/arkainzeye
  • Are you talking about the cable that goes from the Throttle valve to the top of the transmission? If so I have had a problem with this cable also. The throttle valve end piece of it broke off and I kept repairing it by soldering a piece of a bolt-shank onto the end of the cable. This has worked for a year and a half but now the cable has stopped retracting back into the tranny after it is pulled out by the throttle valve. The cable seems to be very difficult to change. I think if I drop the transmission cross-member down and let the tranny kind of sag a little it may be possible.
  • safiyyasafiyya Posts: 3
    My 1994 tracker developed a problem with its temp gauge after I had engine replaced. I have had two thermostats put on, the fan has been replaced and the sensor. It registers hot when I am going up hills, then it comes back down to normal when descending. The car does not overheat although the gauge registers in red zone. After the sensor was changed, it now goes into red zone even with regular driving and doesn't go back to the normal range.
  • Hi, I just recently purchased a 2000 tracker with 1.6 5 spd and when i cruise at highway speeds like 60 and over the rpms are about 3000-3500 rpms in 5th gear. I was just wondering if this was normal for these as it feels like it wants to shift again. Thanks.
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    Sweet Jes*s what a thing to attempt. I am sure glad I bought the G.M service manual if I ever have to do that operation. He didn't mention in his site as to how many miles were on the rig before this noise took place. With the tensioners on the chain gone, what was stopping the chain from skipping teeth? If this happened, I wonder if the valves would begin to interfere with the pistons? Or would you have time to stop the motor before this took place? I hope Suzuki has beefed up the tracks before 2003.
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    I have a 2004 with the v6 and 4 speed auto. At 72 mph the tach reads 3000 rpms.
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    from what i read about some of these timing chain problems, they all seem to be on v-6 engines. am I right? is any of the inline 4's having these problems?

    chris
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    That does seem like alot of RPM's for 60 in 5th. My 2001 with the 2.0 4spd auto turns approximately 2500 in overdrive at 60 MPH. But the axle ratio is listed as 5.12:1 (wow that's low gears) so depending on the overdrive reduction that could be about right.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    My 2.0 5-speed cruises at 3,000 rpm in 5th at 65 mph. The 2.0 reaches max torque at 3,000 rpm, so the gearing gives it good drivability at 60-75 mph. The 1.6 reaches max torque at 4,000 rpm. I had the 1.6 in my '95 Sidekick, and I had to do a lot more downshifting on long hills because the engine would lug at 3,000 rpm. The 1.6 is at peak performance between 4,000 and 5,200 rpm. You'll find that you will need 4th gear to climb some hills at 70 mph. Don't worry: The engine is designed for it.
  • ruralaltruralalt Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Chevy Tracker, 2.0L Engine. It has 96,000 miles on it. My check engine light came on the day before yesterday. I hooked up my Code Reader and got a P0400 code / EGR flow malfunction. I ohmed out the EGR valve and that checked good and all the vacumn lines are tight as well. The Tracker's been running alittle sluggish lately too (don't know if its related), no other symtoms though. Anybody have any ideas :sick: ??
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    I ran across this article that may be of some help.
    link title
    The culprit seems to be carbon buildup. I use seafoam every few months in the fuel and have never had a carbon problem. You might give that a try before you get into tearing the intake apart.
  • ruralaltruralalt Posts: 2
    Thanks for the VERY informative article! Much appreciated. Will run out tomorrow and pick up a can of Seafoam as well.
  • mhall1mhall1 Posts: 7
    I've had idle/stalling problems with my 97 Tracker. I've replaced the o2 sensor (the code came up) and cleaned the throttle body and now it has come back. There is a strange bad odor sometimes when starting. I think I'll clean the IAC next. What do you think? Thanks, Mike
  • how you doing, i have a tracker 99. and it has some timing chain noise. i9s there something that is common that goes out? (tensioner/guides ect....) i looked it up on motors and it says like 9 hours to repair. is that a good estimate or what.... i`m trying to do this the least intrusive... any help will be most appreciated...
  • inuvikinuvik Posts: 131
    Is the odor inside the vehicle or outside exhaust?
  • cobcob Posts: 210
    see post #1322.
  • I too have a 2000 tracker with the 4 cylinder 2.0 overhead cam engine. The timing chain is broken and the tensioner seems to be missing from the picture. The dealer is having a hard time getting the tension and I can't get a good answer to what the part number is because of all the updates to it. Can anybody point me in the right direction?
  • Had to take my 2000 Tracker to the dealer yesterday. It's going to cost $500 just to change the transmission TV cable!!
    What the hell! They claim that the throttle body has to be removed to get the cable changed...This sucks. Anyone had this cable changed before?
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