Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Tracker

1505153555690

Comments

  • okrafeetokrafeet Posts: 14
    Out of the three mechanics I've taken my Tracker to, one changed the fuel pump and I am getting better gas mileage. But it's now dying if idling too long. A friend had problems with a coil that would expand in hot weather, changed it and all was fine. Someone else suggested the oyxgen sensor.
    I don't know why my tracker won't act up at all for the mechanics. Just me. I'm going to take it to my fourth mechanic next week and if they can't figure it out...I'll have to trade it in...be upside down on payments, but as a newspaper photographer, I have to depend on being able to get places in the hot south.
    Rem05, hopefully we'll be able to get this problem solved.
  • carmen05carmen05 Posts: 1
    Hi!
    I agree with you... the front ones were a breeze...
    ...HoWeVeR...
    Can you give me hint on how to remove the rear drums in order to inspect the rear brakes?
    I know they possibly don't need changing, but I want to inspect them anyway and adjust them.
    I may be doing something wrong because I am unable to remove the drums...
    Thanks,
    Carmen
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    to be honest. im not sure what i did to get them off. i remember I broke a craftsman screw driver and i remember it was a total pain in the rear!! but with 70k miles io had about 45% life left on the rear pads. I do remember beating the rear drum with a hammer and trying to pry it. it worked. but i thought there had to be a easier way.
  • magoo5magoo5 Posts: 1
    WHEN WAS YOUR FUEL FILTER WAS REPLACED, A DIRTY FUEL FILTER CAN RESTRICT THE FLOW. THIS DECREASES THE FUEL THAT MIXES WITH AIR WHICH OVERLY THINS THE FUEL. THE RESULTS IN HOT WEATHER, EVAPORATION. CHANGE THE FUEL FILTER.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    I recommend turning off your CAPS LOCK because people tend to ignore messages typed in ALL CAPS.

    tidester, host
  • okrafeetokrafeet Posts: 14
    Rem05 - I had my fuel pump replaced...although they did it without my authorization. I have no idea if they replaced the fuel filter. I am SO not mechanically inclined as a female though I should take the time to learn this stuff. Just this morning, I took my tracker into the local Chevy dealer. This will be the last (of four) places I take it to. They say it has to act up when on the machine to be diagnosed. Well, naturally it doesn't for them, only when I drive it in hot weather.
    I told them to keep it as long as possible until it quits starting. Also, when I leave it it park and let it idle, it dies. After this, I give up. I'll keep you updated on what they say.
  • polmsteadpolmstead Posts: 1
    Hi Calvo,

    I'm having the same problem with my running lights staying on. I'm also looking at replacing the DRL. Looking at the schematic for the exterior lighting system the pnk/blue (Head lamp sig) wire out of the DRL goes directly to the Ambient light sensor (light sensative diode) and to the high beam indicator and the head lights. It's the round black thing on the top right of the dash. I would check with OHM meter to see if you don't have an open circuit or bad light sensor. But let me know what you find since I'm just begining the battle here. Thanks, good luck :confuse:
  • okrafeetokrafeet Posts: 14
    Well, after a week with no word from the Chevy dealer, I called. They said the hot weather starting problem was the cam shaft position sensor. Then he said he'd keep his fingers crossed that the machine would be clear and show nothing else. This is to the tune of $727.00. Fourth mechanic now. Hopefully,, this will solve the problem or I'll have to blow it up. Too bad I still owe 7K on it. :sick:
  • tatchisontatchison Posts: 2
    I searched the forums for my problem, but I couldn't find anything related to it. My 1999 Tracker's air conditioner just started blowing cool air, not cold air. I brought it to be re-charged, but the service technician couldn't do anything since the compressor (condenser?) wasn't coming on at all. I would press the A/C button, the light would come on, but the compressor would not start. I then brought it to the dealer, and now they are tracing the electrical system. It has been 3 days going on 4 and they still haven't found the problem. Could anyone have some idea what the problem would be?
  • tatchisontatchison Posts: 2
    I was wondering if you were ever able to track this problem down. It sounds like I have similar issues.
  • scottybkscottybk Posts: 3
    Hi All

    Wow! What a great Forum, I had no idea you were here, but I'm glad I found you. I have been looking through the 50+ pages trying to find some answers for a problem I'm having with my '97 Sidekick Sport 1.8L. It's a great rig in all regards but it has developed what I believe is called "spark knock". It is an automatic with 93,000 miles on it and less than 10,000 miles on a major tune-up. The problem has just cropped up and is very annoying. I feel that it does hinder its performance a bit and it is noisy. Has anyone else experienced this problem and if so were there any ways to fix it? I have tried running higher octane fuel (89) but that seems to make no difference. Any thoughts or ideas are great appreciated, thanks for your time

    Scott
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    i was wondering if this would helpyou at all. in my tracker i have ran a product called SEAFOAM in my gas tank. and my tracker loves it. perks it up. 1 oz per gallon..

    http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpConsumer.htm
  • cardorcardor Posts: 6
    The dealer changed the fan and fan switch and also the o rings in the compressor also there's a in line fuse to the compressor that blows if freon gets too low protecting the compressor, and a couple of high pressure lines and added freon. The cost was $400.
  • harold3harold3 Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 1.6 I replaced fuel pump did not help. I found it is the camshaft position sensor. It happens when air cond. is running engine is hotter then. Pour water on it to cool and it will start. Chevy can not get it (so the say). I just ordered one from RockAuto.com chevy part# 91175909 or ACDelco213933 $68. or Beck Arnley Part# 1800303 $44 Standard Part #PC226 #59. Has to be adjusted on 2.0 engine.
  • "Intermittent problem" is a dirty combination of words to a mechanic. This problem of not starting has happened twice to my wife. Every time I arrive on the scene, the car magically starts. The first time I bought a $100 code retriever, $20 fuel filter, and the $20 air filter. I installed all the parts but did not use the code retriever just yet. Well the car worked fine for a couple of weeks and then right in the middle of the bank line the car started missing real bad and died, but would not start back up. Off to the fire I went and again as soon as I arrived my wife had it started up again running just fine. We swapped vehicles and I took it home and this time I opened my new toy (code retriever) and hooked it up. NO CODES!!!! I am panicking at this point not knowing what is wrong. I calmed down and went through a visual check and found nothing unhooked or out of place. I next did the "touchy-feely" test. While the engine was running I grabbed all the connectors one at a time and gave them a wiggle and a slight tug. Everything was great until I grabbed the camshaft position sensor and wiggled it and then the car died. I did this several times over to confirm what I had found. This connector is roughly 1/2 inch deep and shouldn't loose electical conductivity until it is removed at least a 1/4 inch. I pulled the sensor out and inspected it. I went immediately to the parts store and got a manual in hopes it would tell how to test the sensor but had no such luck. I also went ahead and picked up some dielectric grease. I cleaned out the connector and the sensor plug-in with compresed air. I tried to bend the female socket leads so they would fit tighter but they are too small to fit any tools down in. I put just a sliver of the grease on each male lead and then put it back together. After that I took two 4 inch black uv resistant zip ties and I locked the connector together as tight as the zip ties would go. So far we have not had any problems, but I am planning on replacing the $88 camshaft sensor for peace of mind. I saw another post where someone stated their mechanic diagnosed the camshaft sensor as the culprit. I currently am trying to locate a diagnostic procedure for that sensor as well as a possible Technical Service Bulletin for this problem. We bought ours brand new in 2000 and I love the car, but I can't have my wife and kids stranded in constant 98 degree weather in Southeast Texas. I hope this helps.
  • What has to be adjusted on the 2.0? The sensor just pops in a hole with a bolt. From what I can see, as long as one doesn't move that adjustment housing the sensor fits in, then a simple swap should do. Right?
  • englishemenglishem Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Tracker. For about a month now I have had to fight with it to get the key to turn all the way off so I can remove the key. I tried my other key and it does the same thing. Sometimes I even have to use a pair of pliers to turn it hard enough to get the key out. I finally took it to the Chevy dealer who said it needs a new ignition lock cylinder and will cost $593.11 to repair. I asked if I had any other options and he said the part can only be obtained through GM. Is this something that could be fixed at PepBoys or somewhere like that for less expense? I waited too late to call them tonight but I need to figure out what to do. Has anyone else had this same problem?
    Thanks.
  • harold3harold3 Posts: 6
    You are right. I went back and checked book on 2.0 it does not mention a adj. Also rockauto.com does not have ACDelco in stock I ordered a standard brand which is in stock. Any idea why this sensor will not trip check engine light.
  • There was a recall or Tech Service Bulletin on this problem having to do with the defective cylinder. We have a 2000 model and it did this to us in our third year. Ours was still under warranty so it cost nothing, but in my opinion since this is a recognized manufacturer defect, the dealer should not charge you.
  • Not sure on why it isn't tripping the light. How long have you had your new sensor in? GM will sell you one for the 2.0 at the tune of $240 but you have to buy the whole assembly(the part that you adjust) that bolts to the back of the head just to get the sensor. I just picked mine up today from Auto Zone for $88 and was expecting just the sensor, but it too was the whole adjustable assembly that had been remanufactured. I only pray that the sensor part is truly brand new as it looked a little scuffed. This is from Wells (manufacture of aftermarket parts). If the problem occurs again I guess we will take it back to Autozone(3 month warranty) and go ahead and buy the assembly from GM knowing it will be brand new(I hope).
Sign In or Register to comment.