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Chevy Tracker

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Comments

  • harold3harold3 Posts: 6
    Have not received new sensor yet. For the quick fix I carry a water bottle when it quits I douse it with water to cool (Camshaft Sensor). I checked rockauto.com. the 2.0 is not same as 1.6. The 2.0 comes with the adj. housing lists for $119 new one half Chevy' price . rockauto.com 2.0 Part # Standard PC432 searched under ignition. I also removed and cleaned all grounding points. Seems to helped, not sure yet Temp. has to be hot to act up
  • jimmijimmi Posts: 1
    DRL "removal": Pull daylight sensor up out of dash (black round object on right side of dash near up to winshield. Prise it carefully with a flat (preferably non-metallic) blade. A wire harness is connected at the bottom. Disconnect this from the sensor. This disables the DRL. Light will operate "normally" with the switch on the stalk.

    Mine needs somewhat bright sunlight to decide the sun is up.

    Sorry I did not read about the ignition switch before - mine had same problem. However, a dollop of GRAPHITE (i.e. a dry lubricant), seems to have made it useable.
  • loadoffunloadoffun Posts: 1
    I have purchased a 1999 Tracker, so far I just love the little thing... When we bought it did not come with factory A/C. It has 1.6L 5 speed manual transmissiion.

    I would like to look that possiblility to adding A/C to it. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appericated...

    Thanks,
  • ntimpntimp Posts: 4
    One more goofy problem..the plastic piece that holds the front soft top onto the car broke apart where it snaps onto the roof screws..anyone know where I can get one..dealer only or aftermarket somewhere..but don't know part no. or if it's even available..thanks
  • cardorcardor Posts: 6
    I see them for sale on ebay once in a while. Type in 'chevrolet tracker' or 'chevy tracker' .Usually not to expensive.
  • Hi there. I have a 03 Tracker 4x4. I bought it brand new but after I had it for about 2 months something started making a squeeking or grinding noise {sounds like a belt but it is not a belt}. The noice is there sort of in cycles. The noise is sort of more intense when the a/c or heater are on. When I turn the a/c off, the noice is still there but in longer cycles if you know what I mean. I also found out that the noice stops when I change the gear from D to P. I am not a mechanic so I dont even know how to describe it properly. I took the car to 3 or 4 Chevy shops but the mechanics did not hear anything. Of course - there is still a warranty on the car. Would anyone be able to let me know what it is {if you have experienced anything like that before} so that I can just go to the shop and tell them what to check? It would be a great help as I hate to drive a car that is squeeking and I paid quite a bit of money for that.
    Thank you
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    Hi! First time being here so bare with me please. Truck has 10,000 kms and is stored in the winter due to salt. When engaging 4wd the dash light "4WD" blinks once every two seconds. I drove straight down the road with 4wd engaged, light kept blinking. Pulled over on a steep hill onto gravel and engaged 4wd acelerated medium hard, front axle was engaged as I detected no wheelspin. I have the GM shop manuals and have found no explaintion for blinking light in shop or owners manual. Thanks,
  • okrafeetokrafeet Posts: 14
    Well, I wish I had known you when I had that problem since I live in SW Louisiana RedBuggyBoy. The problem turned out to be the Cam Shaft Position sensor but the only one of four mechanics who could find it was the actual Chevy dealer. I didn't want to have to bring it there. Cost a total of $695.00.
    Mine is a 2000 as well though I bought it used with only 12,000 miles. The problem didn't start happening for a year and a half. And as you said, no one can afford to be stranded in hot weather which is all we have here most of the year.
  • rem05rem05 Posts: 3
    fan motor is bad
  • jwc1jwc1 Posts: 1
    I have now replaced three distributors. First one that was ordered the mechanic said it was no good and reorder. The next one lasted for 700 miles. The third one lasted for one startup. Our mechanic tells us we are just getting bad rebuilt distributors. Is this the case or could there be another problem? It is a 4cylinder automatic. If it is the distributors, where can you buy one that will last?
  • redbuggyboy, where is the sensor that you douse with water to cool? My car is doing the exact same thing, but I don't know where the sensor is. I hope this is an easy question to answer. Thanks in advance for any replies!
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    Hi. I am certain this has been tried but you never know. When modern a/c systems run low on charge the computer will lock down the compressor until the charge has been replaced and the circuit breaker reset, often found in the engine compartment. Good luck poorcruiser
  • harold3harold3 Posts: 6
    On my 1.6 2000 it is located on top of engine left side behind valve cover. It has one black ground wire on top and a plug connector. It is connected with 1 10mm bolt no adjustments. On the 2.0 it is on the right side and in some type of housing , which might need a adjustment to replace Recommend you get a motor manual if it is a 2.0 engine, a 1.6 is a 2 minute simple job to change. Check out rockauto.com much cheaper and faster.
  • I removed the drive belt from my 01’ Tracker, 4-cyl w/AC to replace it. Guess what? There isn’t a sticker to show it’s routing, and the Haynes manual I have isn’t worth the paper it’s written on. Can someone please give me a diagram of the routing of this belt, I keep coming up with the appearance that the belt is too long and it’s the exact match to what came off. :confuse: and :sick:
  • I want to get some bigger tires and wheels for my 99 tracker conv. How big of a wheel and tire can i got before i start having problems with them. If anyone knows where i can get good looking off-road rims for bout 500-600 plz tell me, I am planning on putting BFG All-terrain T/A's on it and i am on a budget thanks
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    on my 1999 2 door tracker i have 215/70/15 tires on my tracker. i read somewhere about someone installing 235/70/15 but it rubbed when he made turns..
  • Hi, new to the discussion, wondering if you've had any problems in regards to adjusting the sensor, or if you've even had to adjust it at all. If so, any info on how to do the adjustment? I've just started having the same problems, unfortunately, I've already ordered a new fuel pump and filter. Being stationed in Sicily is a drag with respect to dealing with mechanics. Now that I've read this discussion, I'm pretty sure it's going to turn out to be the sensor. However, before I buy one, I was hoping for some amplifying info. Anything you can tell me would be a huge help. Thanks
  • rem05rem05 Posts: 3
    On my 1.6 liter 99 model Tracker, you do not have to adjust. Not sure about the 2.0 liters. It took about 10 minutes to replace. Have not had the problem since.

    RM
  • leideileidei Posts: 2
    :sick: Help Please!!! I took my 2000 Tracker to the dealership for a tune up. They are telling me that I need new spark plugs, PCV valve, Front and Rear U joints, differential flush, fuel filter, and cooling flush. I live in Cleveland and am having trouble finding a manual for my car. Realistically how much of this can I do myself? The dealership wants $990.00 plus labor.
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    how many miles do youhave on your tracker. i have a 1999 tracker 4x4 and i never needed my u-jointed replaced. ihave 75000 miles and i have done heavy offroading. everything else other than the ujoints are very easy to do on a tracker. the raditor flush is very easy! the front and rear diff;s are even easy. the fuel filter is right next to the tank if you look under ur tracker. i just changed mine for the 3rd time a few months back. when i first purchased my tracker (used) i did a trany,engine, front and rear diff and transfer case fuild change. all of what i listed was easy. man you can get away with doing everything that you listed Minus the u-joints for around $100 depending on the oil you use. i used amsoil so that costs alot more. If you arent needed ujoints then your garage is taking advantage of you BIG TIME....
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