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Chevy Tracker

15455565860

Comments

  • billp5billp5 Posts: 12
    NO. At least not for the 1999 two door.

    Do an on line search at a parts house, Auto Zone, Advanced, Rock auto parts, etc.,

    I believe you will find that the right and left are identical. There is a different mount for the transmission, depending on Auto or Manual.

    Suggest you put the vehicle on jack stands and place a wood block on the oil pan. Gently raise it to see which (or all) mount is bad.
  • I know this problem has been discussed before, but I couldn't find a definitive answer for my particular problem. I have a '99 2.0L 4wd & the 4wd light has begun blinking off & on. I can shift into 4wd and the front wheels engage just fine, but I can hear the pump cycle on & off constantly. I followed the rubber air line to where it enters the front differential from the pump & pinched it off at that point and, the pump shuts off and stays off - indicating to me that the pump is able to maintain pressure (or vacuum maybe), so...does this mean I'm in for an expensive rebuild of my front diff? I put sealer on the fill holes thinking maybe that was leaking air - no luck. Can anybody else think of any other reason this pump might constantly cycle on & off? Thanks!
  • billp5billp5 Posts: 12
    Motor smooth when in neutral. Idle around 850-900 RPM no vibration. When shifted into gear, R or D sitting still it vibrates. I have put it on jacks and gently jacked both the motor and trans. Mounts look fine, no cracks or torn places. Have
    checked the vacuum an within correct range. Check for vacuum line leaks with throttle body cleaner, no change. Removed and thoroughly cleaned throttle body, slight improvement but NOT fixed.

    Anyone have ANY suggestions??

    Thanks,

    Bill
  • My 1990 tracker has minimal heat, The thermostat and gauge work normally, flushed the heater core and was clean and had good flow, but heat is barely enough on a cold day, fan works well,
  • billp5billp5 Posts: 12
    Can you find the valve that actually turns the hot water from the radiator into the heat circuit? If you can find try flushing only this valve. I had this problem on a different brand vehicles years ago. Took me forever to find it. The valve would turn off and on but was completely stopped up. If you flushed from where the hose is connected to the hot water on the block back through the hose that returns the water from the heater to the block/radiator, this will not help.

    Good luck.
  • this is a well known issue on the Tracker. I just got done replacing mine tonite (about 20 minutes). The part is an electronic part that is located inside the front passenger side bumper. It is secured by two 12mm bolts, has two vacuum lines and and electronic connector. It took care of part of the problem I have (the blinking, and not going into 4WH Drive. The part is available from ( and about $100 cheaper) from a Suzuki dealer rather than a Chevy dealer.
  • I have a 2000 MY 4WD Tracker. This one has me going. After about 6 miles in 4WD, the vehilce will start pulling to the right. The only way to get it to quit is to throw it into reverse, move about 5 ft and then go forward in 2WD. I replaced the electronic unit that is located in the front bumper, this took care of the blinking light and the intermittent condition of non-engagement of 4WD, but this pulling condition still exists. I previously had a front axle seal leak, that is now fixed. Could it be possible that I have a bad hub?
  • I am unfamiliar with the 1990 model, but I had a problem with air flow in my '02 Tracker. There is a pair of cabin air filters located behind the glove box. which get very dirty, if left unchecked they can block air flow. These must be replaced, not just taken out. If you take them out without replacing your condensor coil will plug up with dirt, which is an expensive fix. Trust me, I know.
  • I've had my Tracker VR2 for 5 years now and love it. Today the rear door (tailgate) latch would not open. The door handle is located directly over the license plate. I've tried to lock/unlock but it just won't budge. Any ideas on how I can open the door and fix this?
  • 1999 Chevy Tracker 4wd 2.0- Engaged 4wd in the rain, moments later, thumping, clanking, crunching, grinding noise inside front, right wheel. Just after that, right wheel came right off, only held on by the caliper!!!
    Just got the vehicle from out of state, if this had happened on the HWY, I wouldnt be here to post this message!
    Anyway, Jacked it up in the rain, took off wheel, caliper and rotor... Bearings were chewed up into bits and pieces.
    Figured the spindle nut came off inside the hub, but upon checking the left wheel, while everything looked fine, I noticed there wasnt a spindle nut on that side!!!
    If thats how it is supposed to be, then can somebody please tell me what the heck keeps the wheels on???
  • billp5billp5 Posts: 12
    FOUND THE VIBRATION PROBLEM.

    1. Idling too fast. I removed the throttle body and throughly cleaned (use throttle body cleaner NOT carb cleaner). Do NOT use sharp objects to clean. Use a small brush. I did lubricate the shaft from the outside before re installing it. Slower idle helped but did not cure the problem.

    2. Loosen and re-tighten motor and transmission mounts. Place the Tracker on 4 jack stands. Loosen the bolts until there is about 1/8" clearance. Start the motor. put the transmission in gear, both drive and reverse. I ran it in drive at an idle then increases speed a little. I gently applied the brakes. I then put it in reverse and did the same thing. I repeated this a couple of times. This allowed the mounts to "re-seat". I tightened all mount bolts and did a road test and a put it in gear at idle test several times. This took 90% or more of the vibration out. This motor is 4 cylinder and that is OK.
  • I have a leak on the driver side of my Chevy Tracker and it only happens when it rains. I have not been able to find the drain plugs. I might have a plugged drain. Does any one know where they are located ???? Any ideas on what is going on ?

    Thanks,

    Jorge in La Mesa, CA
  • billp5billp5 Posts: 12
    I need more info. Where on the drivers side?

    1. Around the door?
    2. Around the window?
    3.Under the dash?
    4. 2 door or 4 door, under the top, (if 2 door)?

    Now as a guess with no info: There is no drain in any of the side panels. If leaking under the door panels it is possible that trash has come through the window opening (with window down or glass seal damaged) and has filled up the "weep" holes in the bottom of the door., Look under the door to see if they are stopped up. If stopped up remove the door panel and clean out these holes. If the door to glass seal is damaged, replace it.

    4. There are some "plugs" in the floor on most vehicles, they are easy to remove to drain the floor (under the carpet) but this does not solve your problem, just keeps it from becoming a swimming pool.

    5. Suggest you have someone run water over the door and window openings to help find the leaks. You should be inside looking for the leak. This may or may not work as wind pressure along with the rain may be causing the leaks.
  • Picking up a 1999 Tracker 4door 4wd 4 speed automatic with 2.0L engine in a few days. It is equipped with a 'Power button." I would like to hear from a Tracker owner who has this 'Power Button' in their vehicle how it works, what it really does, and what use is it in everyday driving (i.e. going to Wal-Mart!)

    I have the owner's manual but unless I missed it it does not -explain- what it does or even when I might need or want to use it. Thank you
  • billp5billp5 Posts: 12
    This is located near the top of the shifter, convenient to your thumb.

    This just downshifts one gear, helps to control in places where it would automatically shift up and down. Kind of like taking a car out of overdrive.
    NOT a highway gear if you want gas mileage.
  • billp5billp5 Posts: 12
    If the lock does not work (turn) take it to a locksmith. If it does turn and does not open, pull the interior panel off and remove the lock from the inside (at least I think you can do this without opening the gate) then replace of repair the latch.

    It may just have the little arm from the lock to the latch broken or out of the hole it should be in. They are secured with a little thing that keeps the rod in the hole. This could break and allow the lock rod to come out, leaving the latch still locked. This can be fixed by removing the interior pane. You would have to get the part from a dealer or a salvage yard., The plastic part is almost identical for a wide variety of cars.
  • billp5 is talking about the overdrive button. The Power switch, which is located just to the left of the gear shift handle, when switched on is supposed to delay shifting of the transmission when pulling heavy loads to provide more power. I have this switch on my 2002 Tracker which I have owned for 5 years and have never needed to use it.
  • I think -that- button on the gear shift is the overdrive on/off. The button I am asking about is on the shifter console to the left side. It is a rocker type switch with two possible choices 'N' or 'P' as shown in the 99 Tracker owners manual on page 2-17. That same page also shows the overdrive switch on the gear selector that I think you are referring to. The only text the manual has for the "Power Mode Selector' switch is this:
    -----
    When you need more power for climbing hills or
    quicker acceleration, press the P (POWER) switch. The
    POWER indicator light on the instrument panel comes
    on. For normal driving, press the N (NORMAL) switch.
    The POWER indicator light goes off.
    ------

    I would like to know what it does to produce more power for hills and acceleration. It is only available on the 4 speed automatic transmission equipped Trackers. I want a detailed explanation of exactly what it does to achieve more 'power'
  • Thanks toms1964..I must have missed your reply. I guess that explains it. Once I get my 99 Tracker next week I'll just try it and see. Thx again.
  • Toms....any luck on that. My rear latch handle has just started not working as well. If I put the key in the back I can lock the doors but when I take it over to unlock it clicks but doesn't actually unlock anything. If I play around I can eventually get it open. Did you go in through the little panel on the inside of the door....if there is one, I haven't had a chance to look.

    I've had my 2000 manual four door for about 7 years, pretty solid little unit. A/c died this summer and when the estimate got over $2000.00 I told them to stop adding it up, compresser, dryer, etc. Other then that, pretty happy.
  • The latch handle will stick in the up position, so I pulled it down 1st, and then unlock and it works ok. Might just need some WD40 or something
  • I just bought a 2000 Tracker 4 dr., 4 x 4, automatic. While driving home from a 60 mile round trip I heard a vibrating noise coming from the rear. I was on city streets at the time so I downshifted and the noise stopped. Then it started again after about 5 or 6 blocks. Downshifted again and the noise stopped again. Should this be of big concern or is it just something loose that is vibrating?
    Thanx
  • I have a 2000 4 door, manual 4 banger. The check engine light comes on every 4/6 months, code as above. After 30? restarts, light goes out. Is there an agreed apon fix for this, I see people reaming out that little pipe at the back of the valve cover...is that the fix. If I ignore, what happens? Will I break something or reduce gas milage?
  • I have a manual 2000 4 door. When I stop at a light, have vehicle out of gear and cluch up, I can hear a spinning, rubbling type noise, if I depress the cluch the noise goes away. Not only does it go away, I can hear the spinning type noise slow down and stop, taking about 5 seconds (like 3 revolutions). This would seem to be a relatively new sound. I get the feeling something isn't totally releasing in the clutch? Don't quote me on that.
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    Please read my post 1748. To get the black cowl cover off to inspect the air intake area; first pop black covers off wiper arms, remove bolt, wiggle wiper arm and remove. Remove plastic pop in clips that hold the rubber stripping and cowl cover on top of fire-wall. There are also four plastic bayonet clips on the end of the cowl cover that require you to press in the middle part to release the plug then pull the plug up and out. The cowl cover is still being held by four white plastic clips that may come out in one piece or not. Like I said in the post they are cheap to replace from Suzuki. If you look into the air intake area on the drivers side you will see the bundle of wires going though this area; on the passenger side of the air intake is where I found the leak and successfully plugged it with silicone III on a long screwdriver.
    Goodluck :)
  • mpdgunnympdgunny Posts: 2
    I just got a 02 Tracker LT with the V6 from my grandmother. Everything is in great shape but it has a very loud ticking noise. Almost like a piston is about to shoot from the hood. Its got 89k for miles and the engine was rebuilt once before.
    Is this a common problem for this vehicle? Is it worth it for me to tear it apart and try to fix it or should I start looking for a new engine.
  • Is the noise rpm related or constant?
  • mpdgunnympdgunny Posts: 2
    Im going to say yes but not 100% sure.
  • billp5billp5 Posts: 12
    Disable the ignition coil to one cylinder at the time and try to isolate the noise.

    You may want to a parts house and buy a "mechanics stethoscope" and try it at various positions on the engine while it is running. If you have a store like Harbor Freight near you they are not too expensive (under $5)
  • I have a 2000 chev tracker with an unusual cooling system I think a problem. The top radiator hose and top of the radiator is operating temp, hot to the touch. The engine block by the water pump is hot to the touch. The temp gauge goes to the normal operating range(center of the white bar). Heat comes out of the heater. Yet the lower chamber of the radiator and the lower hose is cold to the touch. I have replaced the radiator cap and thermostate. When the coolant was drained it was really clean like new. When you squeeze the lower radiator hose with the cap off coolant will come up through the filler. Have any one of you with this tracker checked to see if yours is the same way or is the lower hose warm to the touch? The cooling system fluid is at the proper level also.
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