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Jeep Grand Cherokee A/C Heating Ventilation

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Comments

  • jsongerjsonger Posts: 2
    I have a '01 GC Limited with the auto climate control. Have replaced all actuators and still get low air flow volume. There is no cabin filter and no trouble codes from the system, just not a lot of air coming out no matter if defrost, heat, or vents. The fan seems to be running at all speeds and there is no blockage in the area around the fan's wheel. Could this be an issue with the fan control resistor block? I welcome any suggestions or similar experiences
  • jsongerjsonger Posts: 2
    Did you ever get an answer to this problem? I've got the same issue with my 01 GC Limited. No one has offered any advise. The fan blows pulling 12.5v, no trouble codes, blend doors work, recir door functions. No significant air flow.
  • eq9zeq9z Posts: 2
    Hi, I got an answer and it is fixed. Seems the costly mechanics put the little piece in backwards (the blower control) and it was turning the wrong way. I researched the problem, called Network and told them, they told me I was female, blonde did not know what I was talking about so I took it to a friend who works on AC's and RV's and he looked at it and said "hey it is turning back wards", he changed the wires and the thing works just fine. We still have a blend door not functioning, but at least the blower is blowing at 100%.
  • im3of3im3of3 Posts: 1
    edited April 2012
    OK.....I've been reading all these posts on here, but I just can't find out where one certain vacuum line goes. It hooks into the 'main' line just above where the a/c hoses go through the firewall. But it is a short line (could have been broken off) and there are no other lines coming through the firewall at either hoses, a/c or the heater hoses. I've tried to post a picture, but I'm doing something wrong and it won't post. OH...and the selector switch for the heater/defrost IS stuck on defrost...and if that line goes through the firewall.....where does it end up at ?? OH and it is a 93 Jeep Cherokee Loredo.

    Also, my speedometer hasn't worked in God knows how long, and I've replaced the VSS, and it still doesn't work. When the speedometer doesn't work, then neither does the odometer and the speed control. The tachometer works just fine, it's just the speedometer that don't work......any ideas ????? I need help....... Thank You
  • beebersbeebers Posts: 1
    edited May 2012
    I've read this entire discussion and my head is spinning. I have two issues and am not sure if one is related to the other. First I seem to be losing air conditioner refrigerant which may be the result of a slow leak. I understand that I can take this into a garage and they will place something with dye in it to find the leak. Is this dye available to customers at a place like pep boys or should I let a professional handle?

    My second issue is that my passenger side vents are shooting out cool air when the heat is on, and warm air when the air is on. From what I've been reading on here this could have something to do with the blend door for the passenger side, and I think I remember reading that this is more difficult to fix on the passenger side than for the one on the drivers side. I am fairly mechanically inclined, more with hammers and nails, and want to know if this is as simple of a fix as some of you are saying.

    Lastly, I'm reading about fault codes on here, where do you find those at? Do I need to take it to a garage for a diagnostic to get the fault codes?
  • lcatanlcatan Posts: 2
    Hi:

    I have a 97' and recently, the A/C died. Today, out of nowhere, the blower went. I checked every fuse (both inside and near the engine). All of the fuses are perfect. This does seem to be an electrical issue, but does anyone have any knowledge as to where to start with this?? It will be 91 degrees here in PA on Friday, and I am freaking out!! Please HELP!!!

    Laura
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    sounds as if your blower resister went if you don't have blow fuses rectangle thing held on by two screws need blower motor
  • Just purchased a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Great condition, no accidents, but the heater blows only cold air on the driver's side. Passenger side is lukewarm. Any experiences with this, and estimated costs for repair?

    Thanks
  • I have a similar issue, passenger side blows cold and drivers is hot so went online and followed video how to remove glove box and access blend doors where normally the problem is. I had the rear motor ( blowing cold side) was stuck. problem is cant get to it. a kit can be bought to repair faulty doors. pretty easy to fix. They recommend tools to cut but I used sharp drywall knife and worked fine. If you have dual heat controls then you must purchase a kit containing a separate motor to replace the rear one you cant get to and add it to the front area as the video shows. (heatertreater.net) is one site.
  • blendorblendor Posts: 23
    Hello khankinsirwin:

    Your symptoms sound like the common blend door problem.
    First thing is you should check the HVAC system fault codes.

    The cost can range from a DIY job of $20 to a repair shop cost of $1,800
    Of course the cost depends on what is wrong with the system.

    Also if you cut an access hole to check the blend doors and rear actuator motor (The actuator motor between the firewall and the HVAC box)

    And you find that the rear actuator motor is not working.
    That does not mean the actuator motor is bad.

    Usually what happens is the computer will shutoff an actuator motor that makes one revolution without any resistance.

    That actuator motor could still be in good working condition.

    Post a message, if you need more information and on how to check the rear actuator motor.
  • mrsixpackmrsixpack Posts: 39
    Ok, so do not take your GC to the dealer to get the doors fixed, they want $1550 to fix mine, they just check the codes and say everything needs replaced but I can see the dang motor turn so they are way off on their repair guesses ! Check out the NAGCA.com site and do lots of web searchs, I just got the parts to fix mine for $70 ! It replaces the cheap plastic doors with metal doors and a metal rod, You cut into the heater behind the glove box....no need to remove the dash ! It makes both sides work off the drivers heat controler but its much cheaper then $1550 and in shop for 2-3 days.....you can do it at home in a few hours...well maybe a day if you really want to be carefull ! One sites said the hardest part of the repair is clean up after your done !
    One more thing....I took my 01 GC to the dealer to get service, they checked off the "checked battery and cables" I came home and was looking under the hood and the battery cable came off in my hand, I went to the dealer and yelled, even went and found the owner and they both said they just look to see if battery is there and not covered with corrosion....they did not touch the battery or the cable ! No checking of water or to see if it was secure or anything...they just look to see if its there !!!! I guess they did check the tire pressure as all 4 air valve dust caps are missing ! Never take the dealer shops or any shops word on what they did...check everything yourself ! Love my Jeep GC but hate the dealers and their shops !
  • Trying to troubleshoot A/C in 95 Jeep grand Cherokee. Everything seems to be working, freon pressure good, I can hear the compressor engaging, and the blower works fine. Just no cold air. What should I troubleshoot next? FYI, this is an older Jeep with very high miles.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Is it possible to pull the heater core without disconnecting the A/C?

    Does anybody have experience with this repair.

    It looks like the heater core is leaking. The procedure in the shop manual indicates A/C evaporator core and heater core must be removed as an assembly. Not very efficient if the problem is just the core.

    1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 4.0L I6, auto, 2wd.

    Thanks in advance
  • sadly you do have to remove the entire case the evap and core are in which comes to the really bad news this requires a complete dash removal in order to do it correctly ,but on the up side you can also check your blend doors which are a known item that constantly needs to be replaced unless you install the aluminum blend doors which you can Google and get for 150 bucks and they install fairly easy and will never need replacement.as for the dash removal look on YouTube there is a vid on how to do this .good luck and believe me I know I did it a few times myself .
  • hull03hull03 Posts: 1
    I did this a couple of years ago to replace the evaporator. Both the evaporator and the heater core are situated almost side by side within the HVAC box which is located behind the dashboard fastened to the bulkhead and is almost the full width of the vehicle. I did this myself because repair shops were quoting silly prices but you will need to know what you are doing, it is a fairly big job, it took me around 10 hours, but I was working outside and dodging showers. The short answer is 'no' it is not possible to pull the heater core without disconnecting the A/C, the whole HVAC has to be removed and disassembled to gain access to both heat exchangers. If you trust your expertise go for it.

    Refs: http://www.frankscammell.com/jeep-ac-evaporator-removal.html

    also although this is a later model it gives you on overview of the job:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leskZBor0_o

    good luck
  • mike20878mike20878 Posts: 58
    When I'm stopped at a light my a/c blows warm air. When I hit the gas again it gets cool. Any ideas?

    Thanks.
  • Check your electric cooling fan motor, mine stopped working last year and the car temp would run a little warm and the ac wouldn't be cool when the car wasn't moving. Could be low freon or a plugged condenser in theory also.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Heat and A/C are controlled by a vacuum switch. A vacuum powered actuator opens and closes a door to redirect the air over the heater core or the a/c evaporator. I suspect you have a vacuum leak. When the engine increases rpm it increases the vacuum enough so that maybe it compensates for the leas. The problem could be a leak in your vacuum reservoir which I believe is designed to prevent uneven performance of vacuum controlled items. Unless you get real lucky, you will need a vacuum test kit to find the leak. It's not big $, but it is hard to troubleshoot this type of problem without it.
  • Someone help! i just spend 1000 getting my blend door, heater core, and evaporator core fixed. my air flow was barely working, but now its a little better. problem is that my passenger side isnt working nearly as good as the drivers side. my mechanic is going to take a look at it again but he is unsure of what could be keeping the air flow from coming through as hard as it should be. before the repairs i had no ac or heat coming out of the passenger side, and luke warm and cold air coming from the drivers side. the air flow on the drivers side isnt working as hard as it should be in my opinion but the lack of air on the passengers side is what concerns me. does anyone know what could cause this?
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