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Jeep Grand Cherokee A/C Heating Ventilation



  • How do you lift the fallen recirculation door up off the blower
  • on my way back home from a long trip my jeep over heated and i blew out the heater core ,i did a bypass and filled the cooling system but then it still over heated ,i left the radiator cap off an noticed it was back flowing so i changed out the thermostat but its still over heating and back flowing could this be the water pump failing to circulate or could it be some sensor that hasn't registered on my codes ?
  • jmarikjmarik Posts: 1
    Most of the air is coming out of the floor vents. This is ok unless it's really hot and you need the cold air conditioning blowing out the dash. Anyway, checked the vacuum hoses and found them to be ok, have plenty of vacuum. Had a mechanic look at it and he said that a part under the dash needs replaced. Means big bucks to remove dash. I am fairly mechanically inclined and would like to try to fix myself. Does anyone know where to find info. on how to remove the dash to access the air flow mechanism for the dash vents?
  • offroadpepoffroadpep Posts: 11
    edited August 2011
    jmarik ... Messages 407 & 408 may help you.

    Also check this page ...
  • sarnelsarnel Posts: 1
    Last night the air conditioner on our Cherokee just stopped working. The air conditioner light does not come on when you push the button; there is no air blowing out, no air coming out when the heat is turned on either. The light does come on when you push the defrost button. Please help.
  • rhickmanjrrhickmanjr Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    I have a '96 JGC. When i'm traveling over 65 mph and it is hot outside there is a squealing noise that occurs. It appears to be coming from behind the radio cluster..more on the passenger side. It occurs if the A/C is running or not. If I slow to under 65 mph the squealing stops. It does not occur when the temp. is under 90 degrees outside so I never hear it in the winter or early morning summer hours. It does not occur if I travel over 65 mph and is cool outside. My conclusion is that a combination of temperature and speed is triggering this to happen. Anybody ever hear of this problem??
  • ok, I too am having the same crazy electrical troubles. I guess I still haven't seen what the cause is. My sunroof will come open on it's own, my a/c will now only blow on defrost only and will not change with the selector switch, my factory radio will not turn the volume up w/o spinning the knob several times, and my electric windows sometimes work and sometime dont, and my cruise now does not work. The light comes on but when I hit "set" I get nothing. Thanks for the help. Matt
  • 2005 Gr Cherokee heater ac blower operates in high position all the time. occationally operates in position 1,2, or 3. suggestions?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    blower motor resister located in the heater box just to the left of motor held in with two 1/4 screws has 4 wires plugged into it
  • Thanks for the info. Found a vacuum leak right by the firewall in the engine compartment. A little electrical tape around the hose solved the problem. I save a bundle, I guess. :)
  • jsongerjsonger Posts: 2
    I have a '01 GC Limited with the auto climate control. Have replaced all actuators and still get low air flow volume. There is no cabin filter and no trouble codes from the system, just not a lot of air coming out no matter if defrost, heat, or vents. The fan seems to be running at all speeds and there is no blockage in the area around the fan's wheel. Could this be an issue with the fan control resistor block? I welcome any suggestions or similar experiences
  • jsongerjsonger Posts: 2
    Did you ever get an answer to this problem? I've got the same issue with my 01 GC Limited. No one has offered any advise. The fan blows pulling 12.5v, no trouble codes, blend doors work, recir door functions. No significant air flow.
  • eq9zeq9z Posts: 2
    Hi, I got an answer and it is fixed. Seems the costly mechanics put the little piece in backwards (the blower control) and it was turning the wrong way. I researched the problem, called Network and told them, they told me I was female, blonde did not know what I was talking about so I took it to a friend who works on AC's and RV's and he looked at it and said "hey it is turning back wards", he changed the wires and the thing works just fine. We still have a blend door not functioning, but at least the blower is blowing at 100%.
  • im3of3im3of3 Posts: 1
    edited April 2012
    OK.....I've been reading all these posts on here, but I just can't find out where one certain vacuum line goes. It hooks into the 'main' line just above where the a/c hoses go through the firewall. But it is a short line (could have been broken off) and there are no other lines coming through the firewall at either hoses, a/c or the heater hoses. I've tried to post a picture, but I'm doing something wrong and it won't post. OH...and the selector switch for the heater/defrost IS stuck on defrost...and if that line goes through the firewall.....where does it end up at ?? OH and it is a 93 Jeep Cherokee Loredo.

    Also, my speedometer hasn't worked in God knows how long, and I've replaced the VSS, and it still doesn't work. When the speedometer doesn't work, then neither does the odometer and the speed control. The tachometer works just fine, it's just the speedometer that don't work......any ideas ????? I need help....... Thank You
  • beebersbeebers Posts: 1
    edited May 2012
    I've read this entire discussion and my head is spinning. I have two issues and am not sure if one is related to the other. First I seem to be losing air conditioner refrigerant which may be the result of a slow leak. I understand that I can take this into a garage and they will place something with dye in it to find the leak. Is this dye available to customers at a place like pep boys or should I let a professional handle?

    My second issue is that my passenger side vents are shooting out cool air when the heat is on, and warm air when the air is on. From what I've been reading on here this could have something to do with the blend door for the passenger side, and I think I remember reading that this is more difficult to fix on the passenger side than for the one on the drivers side. I am fairly mechanically inclined, more with hammers and nails, and want to know if this is as simple of a fix as some of you are saying.

    Lastly, I'm reading about fault codes on here, where do you find those at? Do I need to take it to a garage for a diagnostic to get the fault codes?
  • lcatanlcatan Posts: 2

    I have a 97' and recently, the A/C died. Today, out of nowhere, the blower went. I checked every fuse (both inside and near the engine). All of the fuses are perfect. This does seem to be an electrical issue, but does anyone have any knowledge as to where to start with this?? It will be 91 degrees here in PA on Friday, and I am freaking out!! Please HELP!!!

  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    sounds as if your blower resister went if you don't have blow fuses rectangle thing held on by two screws need blower motor
  • Just purchased a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Great condition, no accidents, but the heater blows only cold air on the driver's side. Passenger side is lukewarm. Any experiences with this, and estimated costs for repair?

  • I have a similar issue, passenger side blows cold and drivers is hot so went online and followed video how to remove glove box and access blend doors where normally the problem is. I had the rear motor ( blowing cold side) was stuck. problem is cant get to it. a kit can be bought to repair faulty doors. pretty easy to fix. They recommend tools to cut but I used sharp drywall knife and worked fine. If you have dual heat controls then you must purchase a kit containing a separate motor to replace the rear one you cant get to and add it to the front area as the video shows. ( is one site.
  • blendorblendor Posts: 23
    Hello khankinsirwin:

    Your symptoms sound like the common blend door problem.
    First thing is you should check the HVAC system fault codes.

    The cost can range from a DIY job of $20 to a repair shop cost of $1,800
    Of course the cost depends on what is wrong with the system.

    Also if you cut an access hole to check the blend doors and rear actuator motor (The actuator motor between the firewall and the HVAC box)

    And you find that the rear actuator motor is not working.
    That does not mean the actuator motor is bad.

    Usually what happens is the computer will shutoff an actuator motor that makes one revolution without any resistance.

    That actuator motor could still be in good working condition.

    Post a message, if you need more information and on how to check the rear actuator motor.
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