Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda Passport Electrical Problems

2456

Comments

  • paulpjp1paulpjp1 Posts: 1
    down next to your left foot is a panel. 1 screw and then pull it of. the problem is the relay in the center. there is 3 relays the dash tailights and liciense plate light relay is the center relay
  • msmith2156msmith2156 Posts: 3
    Turned out to be a faulty ground located on the Firewall directly behind the engine. Connections were Red Hot and melting down the plastic. Took the factory clip thing off put connectors on the wires and attached directly to the firewall. All problems solved. Runs like a dream once again. :blush:
  • craigtmohrcraigtmohr Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Passport with 102K on it and the other night I was turning on my headlights and the wipers started going. I messed with it a while and figured to pull out the dash light fuse and everything was ok except I had no dash lights and if I used my wipers the dash lights would come on as if the wiper motor was generating power to the lights. I replaced the fuse and everything seemed to be ok again until last night. It did it again, but this time the spray nozzles went off as well. I think the problem may lie in a short in the dash illumination wire that goes to the wiper switch. Does anyone have a suggestion of what to do?
    :lemon:
  • billylopezbillylopez Posts: 3
    I have a '96 Honda Passport.How can i turn off and reset the check engine light?
  • tabadie1tabadie1 Posts: 1
    the power door locks stopped working. i have checked the fuses, all are good. what else should i check?
  • knewmanknewman Posts: 5
    hey fellow sufferers. i want to like my 96 passport, but i just can't go on with this issue.

    sounds like hondas & rodeos had issues with their grounds, and maybe some other connections. though i'm a mechanic, i hate chasing electrical problems up and around body panels or drivetrain. nightmare.

    my car, which i haven't seen one like it here, loses a ground belonging to the THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR(wants to die and lope at anything less than 1000rpm), the IDLE AIR CONTROL SOLENOID(before i blocked it off, it would idle way too high,...1500-2500), and occasionally the TRANSMISSION ACCUMULATOR (thumps into 2nd gear).

    my problems are specific to outside temperature. around 20-40 degrees F, as soon as the car warms up and takes sensor readings, it all goes screwy.

    if i continue to drive awhile, it stops if ambient temperature is near the 40 deg range or higher. if it's colder, the problem goes on and on, even after sitting off for a while. also, however it runs when i shut it off, that's how it runs the next time i start it.

    anyone found the faulty wire that does this??? crikey.
  • I had the same problem but mostley after I shut down. Turns out that the wiring to the pump corodes. There are two connections on mine, one at the tank (have to remove rear wheel to reach) and one running down the passanger side rail. You can reach or move the wires from the rear tire well. The connectors have a real corosion problem.
  • I have a 97 passport 4 wheel drive, that whin I first start moving the transmission goes in and out of gear several times. I have been told that there is a relay or sensor somewhere that may be the cause. Does anyone know where such a sensor may be located or have any other clue as to what may cause this?
  • seeker10seeker10 Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. I decided to change the battery, so I noted the battery terminals were in no good shape, so I changed both, and the problem was gone since that.. Note use a good battery terminals like copper or audio gold plated type
  • knewmanknewman Posts: 5
    boy, it sure sounds like all of these issues are similar. so what if it's not always the same device that geeks. some of us have "this" on the fritz, others have "that".

    it just sounds like the electrical system in general needs to be addressed. YOU SHOULD ALL KNOW THAT 12 VOLTS (or sometimes as little as 1/2 a volt) ISN'T MUCH POWER TO OVERCOME A BAD CONNECTION.

    i'll list what i know (and what i''m going to fix):

    1) the grounds on both sides of the motor that have a sorry little clip onto the engine or fender. these just tie the body to the motor. there's either 2 or 4.

    2) the 3 relays, i think they're in the driver's kick panel. they're notorious for corroding. i'm going to clean them all up and jam vaseline (anti-oxidant) into the connections.

    3) sounds like some of you need to look at other connections, like the fuel pump's which is accessed after removing a rear tire? or replacing the alternator?

    SO, ANYONE KNOW OF ANY OTHER NAUGHTY ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS?

    i'm going in, ...kevin
  • josh361josh361 Posts: 1
    Im having that same problem now. i was wondering if you knew what those connections were called or how i can find them to purchase? the connection running down the passenger side looks good but the other connection the wire running to the back of it looks like it had been clipped a little and is showing the wire under the plastic covering. if i wiggle may may not turn on most of the time it dont. Now just stuck and frustrated and ready to set fire to the whole car itself. Can anyone help PLEASE.!! :confuse:
  • knewmanknewman Posts: 5
    problems solved. the wife is driving her passport again!

    IT WAS THE GROUNDS. i replaced/fixed all the grounds in the engine compartment,...and....presto-fixo!

    (2) grounds coming off either side of the engine, from valve cover to fender.
    (1)ground from a fuse block to the fender on driver's side.
    (2) going from battery to alternator and down to the passenger motor mount.
    (2) connections going to the same ground on top of the intake manifold; front bolt; driver's side; out of a harness.

    I REPLACED ALL OF THE SORRY CLIP STYLE CONNECTIONS. LOOP TERMINAL--WIRE--LOOP TERMINAL. NOTHING IN BETWEEN. I ALSO USED STAR WASHERS TO HELP KEEP GOOD CONTACT. AND VASELINE TO HELP SLOW CORROSION.
    i just used a couple of electrical connection kits i have for general use on cars. i had to replace a couple of sections of wire that were'nt long enough after cutting the bad connections off (make sure you use the same gauge or bigger).

    i think that's all. all of the WIERD STUFF went away. i still have a malfunctioning IAC(idle air control), but apparently that is a separate problem.

    if i had to go under the chassis to fix wires, i'd probably solder the wires together. i'd do butt joints; press the clean exposed wires into each other like interlocking fingers, then solder. no stupid press in connections, cut them out. then tape, or use shrink tubing (don't forget to slide the shrink tube on BEFORE you solder!)

    good luck gentlemen, kevin
  • I just replaced the battery on my 96 passport and when i connected the battery terminal the alarm started to go off. I don't have the clicker and i need a way to cut off the alarm. I tried to find a fuse to pull to disable it and then connect the battery but i can't seem to find the correct one. If anyone has had this problem and knows what to do please let me now. Thanks.
  • When I went to turn my car on the brake, gas and battery light on my dashboard are lit. I have a half tank of gas, my parking break wasn't deployed and my battery is pretty new. Also my heater/ac won't work even on full blast. What could this be? Is it possibly just a fuse issue or is it shorted wires? Is there an easy way to test it if it is? :cry:

    Oh, I have a '94 Honda Passport. Thanks.
  • I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a bad ground. Standing straight in front with the hood up look back on the Firewall in the center. there is where the ground connections was on my 94. Replace the connectors and make sure this gizzmo is tight. It cured my problem, then I promptly sold it and bought me a new CRV, which is one of the best cars I ahve owned in years. By the way my 94 passport had 265000 miles on her and I still got $2000.000 for her.
  • OK. I have a 1995 Honda Passport (113000 miles). About 4 months ago, I had a problem with the brake light and battery light glow dim. The fan on the A/C stopped working. I took it to an electrical specialist. They replaced the blower and the fuse box (I think). Everything worked fine. NOW the lights are coming on dim again and will go bright when I press the brake down hard. Tonight the check engine light came on but goes outs intermittently.

    From what I have read on this thread, should I be looking at a voltage regulator or a bad ground wire? Any other ideas?

    THANKS!
    Michael
  • I have a 2000 passport also that did this. I found out this is somewhat common. The lock/window buttons are one piece, you can just unplug them and get a new one. I couldn't find any at the junkyard - they were all taken. I found the best deal at www.bkhondaparts.com. You can talk to a real person also. I can send you the part number if you need it. I plugged the new one in and everything is great. I am not a mechanic or expert so take my advice as such ;)
  • I have a 1997 Honda Passport which has been acting strange. The brake light and Rr. ABS light are on. Then the check engine came on. Now the battery light is on.
    The battery light has been blinking on and off. This evening my honda died on me right in the middle of the road.I had to call someone to come and jump me off. I had only drove it just a little piece and it died again. I finally made it home but just barely before it died again. I plugged my Actron code reader in and the code was P0153. Does anyone know what this code is? And could anyone tell me what I need to do to fix this problem?
    Thanks
  • How old is your battery? I experienced similar types of problems with my '96 Passport until I replaced the battery.
  • max1955max1955 Posts: 1
    We have a 2001 Honda Passport 4Dr 4WD with 6cyl MPFI that has started shutting off randomly. sometimes when you hit a stopped bump, Sometimes when you brake hard, most of the time when Idling the reduce power light will come on and the throttle is non responsive. we shut it down (if Still running) and re-start It Idles roughly and will stall again. have to re-start 2 or 3 times before will finally run for a while. It has recently been to the shop ( not a dealer) for transmission repair. I am wondering if the shop failed to reconnect the ground wires from the engine to the fenders and fire wall? could that cause the problems I described?
Sign In or Register to comment.