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Subaru Legacy/Outback Engine Issues

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I wouldn't complain - my Miata eats through spark plug wires every 30k miles. Not a mile longer.

    At 30k you start to notice a marked drop in power output, then you know you need wires.
  • lamericuslamericus Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem as this poster.
    have a 1992 Legacy sedan. I have had this problem twice now once about a month ago and just today. It acts like its starving for fule sputter and then dies. Wont start and when you take the fuellines off the filter no fuel is coming out while you crank. First time I replaced the filter and added dry gas. Also took the fule pump out of the tank and checked it . That was operating fine. I should mention when i took the feul line off the filter it was under a lot of pressure. Ok back to the problem . I put the pump back in and tried it by cranking the enigine with the fuel line off it pumped. out line back on and the car ran fine. Today it did the same thing. I pulled the lines took the pump out again and it ran fine after it was put back in. Any help on this woyld be appreciated.
    Our car is a 1995 model.
    Poster suggested intake leak or MAF, MAP as problem
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    When is it happening? During driving or at idle? How about the relay for the fuel pump - could that be failing intermittently?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • greasefiregreasefire Member Posts: 2
    I am having major problems with my 2005 Legacy GT and wanted to see if others have had similar issues. I will begin with a saying we have at work Yakamatsu which is code for "You can't make this sh%t up"

    1:May 28 2008- Turbo failure resulting in metal shavings getting into the engine. This was covered under warranty and was repaired in about 35 days.
    2: March 31 2009- Loud knocking sound coming from engine, dealer determined the number 2 bearing had spun and wrecked the motor.This is covered under warranty repair and the engine scheduled for repair.(Car still at dealer)
    3.April 25 2009- After waiting weeks for parts the engine was reassemble and put back in the vehice. I received a call from the dealership with not so good news. There was a casting defect on one of the heads and the cam was seized. Parts were ordered.(Car still at dealer)
    May 14 2009- I received a call from the dealer that the car was road tested and finally ready for pick up!!!

    May 15 2009-I picked up the car and drove home 20 miles. When I pulled in my driveway I heard a ticking sound coming from the left side of the engine and a burning smell. I called the dealership and they asked me to return with the vehicle. The car was put on the lift and it was determined that the turbo had failed and would need to be replaced. I was then put back into a loaner car and sent on my way. About an hour after returing home the dealership called me and stated "The turbo for my car is on national back order and there are none available in the usa" I will update this post more as events unfold.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Talk about sour luck! Whoa! You were not kidding when you said, "yakamatsu."
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Too late to call it a lemon, that's first year only.

    At least the dealer seems to be trying.
  • greasefiregreasefire Member Posts: 2
    Yes the dealer is trying and SOA is involved from a consumer affairs perspective. While this might not be a lemon law issue there are still options as a consumer. I have filed a K35 for with my local DMV and have the regional manager from SOA involved. I will post the out come for anyone having similar issues. I will say the service manager has been great as far as updates and general customer service.
  • jake68jake68 Member Posts: 3
    :confuse: OK, I have a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT 2.5 Limited. Great car, Lots of fun to drive. It has 54000 miles on it and for the last 5000 or so the Check engine light keeps coming on. I used the OBD reader and the code is 0304, misfire in cylinder # 4. I want to swap the coil with cylinder #2 to check if that's the problem. However, I don't know whick cylinder is #4. I even bought a service manual. It shows a block diagram of the engine and list the cylinder # for each one. BUT, it doesn't give any indication of the orientation of the diagram??? If I assume the top of the diagram is the back of the car then Cylinder # 4 is on the Divers side front. If I assume the opposite orientation cylinder # 4 is on the passenger side rear.

    Which one is it? Can anyone tell me which one is cylinder # 4?

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • jake68jake68 Member Posts: 3
    :blush: Oooops! Make that, If I assume the top of the diagram is the back of the engine compartment, then cylinder # 4 is Drivers side rear and if I assume the opposite Orientation it would be Passenger side front. Sorry About that.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • jake68jake68 Member Posts: 3
    OK, I found it. Cylinder # 4 is drivers side rear (closest to the firewall).

    Now I have another question. I've unbolted the 2 coil packs but they won't pull off. I also can't get the wire to unplug from it. It looks like it clips to the coil but I can't see it well enough to se how it unclips and I don't want to force it.

    Does anyone have any ideas on how the clip works?

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • sbcvulcansbcvulcan Member Posts: 3
    I am looking at one Legacy 2.5 GT in particular and I have some questions. Looking at a turbo, would be first one I owned.

    Some questions

    1. Is an 05 with only 25k miles and two owners. I find that suspicious, do you?

    2. Has been brought in three times with service from the 20k to 25k mile mark for Engine/powertrain computer/module check. Is this an indication of a problem? I saw this on carfax report

    3. The battery was xchanged in 2007, rather early for an original 05 car?

    4. The car whines on acceleration aside from the whoosh of the turbo. Is this an expected sound with this car. The automatic trans turbo was not loud like this manual i tried, although obviosuly I am revving much more.

    5. Is there any reason to get one transmission over the other in thsi model?

    Any opinions, answers to some or all is appreciated. Thanks.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    1. Difficult to say. Can you determine length of ownership in either case? If the first ownership was long and the second extremely short (encompassing the 20-25K period when the shop visits occurred), that may be indicative of a systemic problem. And, given it is still under 5 year / 60K powertrain warranty, Subaru may have deemed such a problem to be owner-error and therefore not covered under warranty.

    2. Again, hard to say. Obviously, there was some sort of problem or concern, but without seeing the tickets, what is it? Different things, recurring, etc?

    3. Subaru batteries are weak. Depending on the climate, I think replacing the stock battery after two years is about right. I would replace mine much sooner to hedge my bets against being stranded somewhere when it is really cold....

    I cannot comment on concerns 4 and 5.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My 98 Forester only had one coil pack, that's interesting.

    Any how, the electrical connections usually have a locking retainer you have to push in to slide the connection out. Try a light and maybe a mirror, too.

    While I'm at it - here's a great purchase - I got a "headlight" that I can wear as a head band, so the light aims wherever I look, that was the BEST purchase I have made in terms of tools in a decade. I love it. Use it ALL the time. I strongly recommend one.

    It's smaller than this but you get the idea:

    image

    That plus a mirror and you should see it.

    Good luck.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My 2 cents' worth...

    1. Yes a little suspicious. Guy buys it, totals it, sells it to his brother in another state, good luck tracking the wreckage.

    2. Again, yes, because combined with the low miles it means this car has not been healthy most of its life.

    3. A little early, could be another symptom of a car parked due to not running properly.

    4. Yikes. Diffs, trans gears, AWD, who knows. Run don't walk.

    5. Manual is the perfect match for the turbo, IMHO.

    I'd pass, seriously, this one has red flags all over it. The 2010s are coming out so people will be trading up, leaving plenty of good used ones for purchase.
  • yatesjoyatesjo Member Posts: 186
    3. Subaru batteries are weak. Depending on the climate, I think replacing the stock battery after two years is about right. I would replace mine much sooner to hedge my bets against being stranded somewhere when it is really cold....


    That is interesting to hear. I was shocked when our 2005 Legacy battery failed after only 3 years. My Ford worked on the same battery for 9 years, when even the alternator failed at 5 years, and the Miata was on it's original gel cell per the markings for 13 years before it died (absolutely amazing if you ask me). I'm in San Jose so the batteries are never stressed by cold temperature extremes; when I was in MO I was generally happy to get 5 years on a battery.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think I got 5 years out of the battery in my 98 Forester, but it only had something like 265 CCAs.

    The replacement battery I got had very nearly double the CCAs, and it was just much easier to start it after that.

    Had you checked the fluid levels and added distilled water every year? I think nowadays batteries are often overlooked.
  • sbcvulcansbcvulcan Member Posts: 3
    I'm not buying it. THe dealership never had the previous owner call me nor did they call me back. I 've never seen any dealership so disinterested in selling a car. It had been there two weeks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Good decision, IMHO.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    I think I got 5 years out of the battery in my 98 Forester, but it only had something like 265 CCAs.

    Yes, that is what I mean by "weak" batteries. The CCA rating on them is horrifically low. In extremely cold weather (colder than about -20F, which is common in Fairbanks), all presets on my radio, etc., would reset on my car due to the amount of juice required to start the car. It started, but the engine cranked slowly. In comparison, replacing that battery with with a 600 or higher CCA, the engine cranks quickly, without unduly stressing the battery.

    Now, one can add a "battery blanket" in cold climates, which will heat the battery when the car is plugged in (other heaters such as an engine block heater, oil pan heater, and transmission heater are required equipment) and nurse the battery. However, doing so only makes the driver more vulnerable to problems when the time comes that the car could not be plugged in and must be cold-started. With a good battery, no such nursing is needed.

    I have batteries, such as the one in my old '69 Chevy truck, that are on year ten and going strong in this climate. The stock Subaru battery just will not last that long due to the demand placed on the battery. I would much rather spend the $100 to replace it early on than find out just how long it will last, because the day it fails will inevitably be when I am at some remote location with temperatures in the "highly unpleasant" range. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    I agree with that!

    However, if the GT is a wagon, 2005 is the last year of that option and the only year of the turbo-GT-wagon combo, so they are a unique breed.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    True that, paisan got one and they are a rare (but good) find.

    2 owners gave up on it after such low miles, though? Even if it's not a scam, that's still a red flag.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Agreed; it certainly warrants caution. I think the original poster made a good move by moving on, especially given the seller's less-than-forthcoming approach. :lemon:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • angel_gen_01angel_gen_01 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '92 Subaru Legacy 2.2L (Automatic) that has recently had issues with the harmonic balancer. I have called around and gotten multiple prices and now am not comfortable which option to choose at this point. Most of the advise I can get is from people who know very little about Subaru's. My quotes are $318.99-69.99 and cannot seem to get an explanation to the very LARGE difference in price. I keep being told it could be a 'kit' but when I'm looking at this...it's a pulley with a rubber piece in the center. It does not seem this could be an assembly? If so would it be wise to just get the damper instead of the whole pulley? The problem has been that it will not stay tight and continues to back off of the bolt that goes into the crank shaft housing (crank shaft pulley) Now it will not still wobble a bit (so it's parked till fixed) even after being tighten. My guess is the rubber has somehow warn from one area creating an unbalance thus getting it to continue to keep backing out..now that it won't tighten (after the 3rd retighten in less than 1.5 weeks) I'm afraid I may need to also replace the bolt too..I've never done this before and know little about cars over all but any advise or direction would be GREATLY GREATLY appreciated!!!!
  • krallkrall Member Posts: 17
    I have a 2001 OB (4-cly, 5-spd). At present the engine bucks at moderate to hard acceleration < 2500 rpms (in any gear).
    ---------------------------------------------------------------
    ... deleted post.....
    ---------------------------------------------------------------

    Sorry for the trouble. I went back out after posting a disconnected/reconnected all spark plug wires from both coil and plugs. One of the plugs wasn't completely engaged to the plug and must have not been firing under load. Phew....
  • skyemom1skyemom1 Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone tell me when it is "common" that these gaskets go? I had a 99 OUtback (sold it last year) but am looking at a 96 Legacy L X Wagon w/178,000 m. Car seems to run well , only noticeable problem was rattle in fan when turned up over level 2..car does heat OK.

    Plan to use vehicle on limited basis ("dog" car)...

    Recall having rear differential gasket replaced on my 99 at 120,000 so am wondering IF this one may already have gone through these repairs.

    Selling price of car is $1800 and otherwise I think it seemed fine..no noises, rattles (aside from fan noise) power OK

    Maybe I am asking "should I buy this car?"

    I 've just heard that it's common for Subarus to need "bearings" and these seals after 100,000 and hope the previous owner may have already done this..(can't contact person but it is a one owner car in otherwise great conditon).

    Thanks, Liz
  • skyemom1skyemom1 Member Posts: 2
    Looked at a 96 Legacy wagon w/ 178,000 . Car is in great shape, body excellent, no weird sounds or indications of trouble that I could find when I drove it. Asking $1800.(I just need car to transport my dogs so won't be driving much).

    Used to own a 99 Outback (bought it used w/48,000) it was fine until around 85,000 mi
    and then started replacing many part: rear differential seal was something that went at 123,000 and I fixed it but got a new car (Honda).

    Just wondering IF you think this is too risky or should I assume the previous owner (can't contact person but it was one owner car) probably has replaced many of these pricey items already?

    As I said, I do not plan on using this as my main car...

    Thanks,
    Liz
    Ithaca,NY
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    At 178k, the gasket would have failed long ago.

    What matters now is how it was taken care of. Ask to see the service history. Check for the common issues - noisy wheel bearings, oil leaks at the gaskets and front and rear main seals.

    The good thing is most problems you can see or hear, i.e. they should be fairly obvious if you look carefully.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Does the car have the 2.2L or 2.5L? It could be either in '96; I am not sure if Subaru used the 2.5L in other models aside from Outback, but I think they did. I never had bearing, differential, or transmission issues with my '96 Outback up to 220,000 miles.

    Service history is important to know; otherwise, you really have no idea what you are going to get.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yep.
  • subvtsubvt Member Posts: 1
    So how much did it end up costing? I'm facing a similar problem.
  • roadracerx955roadracerx955 Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the starter with a new one, when I put the key in it, the bell was chiming, then when i turned the key everything went dead, the windows now go up without the key in the ignition, the heater fan also turns on, the turn signals make a solid buzzing sound when turned on, plus when i turn the key to the on position and hit the break to put the car in neutral to back it off the ramps it wont turn go into neutral but i can hear the switch for the shifter clicking as it does when u hit the button to take it out of park.....i am totally baffled anyone have ANY idea where to start with this problem or have any ideas it would be much appreciated..
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    Check the engine/battery grounding to the chassis. I believe it is at the starter motor. If ground is open all electrical functions will interact. Is there a loose strap by the starter...or is there such a left-over part after putting in the new starter?
  • bpechtelbpechtel Member Posts: 1
    First like to thank you guys for this forum! Great job! I have a 98 Subaru Outback that just had an oil change & fuel filter change. When we start the car up there's a significant amount of thick blue/white smoke that comes out for a bit then burns off after running the car a bit. But there's still a minor amount that comes out while driving. Is this a major concern? We are very strapped for money and would like to know if this is an expensive fix. Thank you.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I'm not sure if I am following this right. You mention an oil change. Did the blue smoke just start happening right after having the oil change, or did the amount of smoke change considerably then, or is it an ongoing problem?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Is the oil level correct? Maybe the crankcase was overfilled.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    That was what I was thinking, but the OP disappeared.... (in a cloud of blue smoke?)
  • izzy812izzy812 Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    Did you ever get this issue resolved? I am looking at buying a used '96 and it has a ticking when it starts and gets faster and just a hair louder when I accelerate. I want it as a first car for my daughter. Thank you
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    That noise is most likely valve chatter. Unless the contact points have worn significantly, this will likely quiet down if the oil is fully topped off. Check the oil; if it is still making the noise and the oil is full, then either the cam lobes are starting to get worn or the ticking is coming from another internal component.

    Subaru's, especially older ones, are famous for valve chatter. People (around here anyway) like to say they sound like sewing machines.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • karsmasherkarsmasher Member Posts: 1
    Thanks all for this forum! It's great to have a place to bounce ideas around.
    So currently I have a 1998 subaru legacy L thats overheating. All the fluid levels are good and the thermostat is new. Noticeable lack of power and some new mechanical noise coming from engine, doesn't sound like valve lash but just as consistant. Oil light keeps coming on and only cold air blows from the heater. I think possibly cracked head......any insight on this would be great.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Unfortunately, I think you on the right path. The DOHC EJ25 engines are prone to head gasket failure. Once combustion gases get into the water jacket, you get air pockets that prevent the heater core from providing warmth to the cabin, and causes hot spots that do further engine damage.

    If you act quickly, you might be able to save the engine. Run it like this and you will kill it quickly.
  • trevor21trevor21 Member Posts: 3
  • trevor21trevor21 Member Posts: 3
    2011 Outback 3.6R: ~50,000 kms. i'm now experiencing a hard jerk while driving, typically going about 40-50 km/hr. It's a 5 speed Auto Transmission, but imagine driving an MT a constant speed, gearing down and dropping the clutch. that ensuing jerk is happening with my car. the RPM appear to shoot down when this happens. Worst occurrances during cold and snowy weather (slippery, snow covered roads).

    Subaru dealer said the fix for this was a reboot of the onboard computer and changed the AT trans. fluid.

    Problem persisists - any thoughts?
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