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2008 Ford Escape

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  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    Correct!

    A TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) is pretty much the same thing as a recall, in which they are both recorded and known problems and a repair bulletin has been issued to fix the problem. The only difference is that a recall is generally a safety issue in which the problem can result in injury and/or death if not fixed and it is always covered by the manufacturer without a cost to the consumer, basically to cover their [non-permissible content removed]es and not get sued. A TSB on the other hand is a bulletin to fix a known problem and depending on your mileage it may be covered under warranty or not. A TSB will most likely be covered by the manufacter if your vehicle is still under the warranty period, but if your not then the expense is on the consumer. TSB's also cover the manufacturer's [non-permissible content removed]es in which it may be harder to sue the manufacturer because there was a TSB and the consumer failed or refused to fix the problem. Antoninb is correct, there are far more TSBs then recalls, so whenever an issue arises be sure to look them up, you are very likely to find one that pertains to your specific issue.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    Not to belabor the point, but unlike a recall, a dealer will not perform a TSB procedure on your car unless the diagnosis indicates that the problem is related to the TSB. You can't just walk up to the service writer and demand that all published TBSs be performed on your car. And if you are out of warranty and don't have a relationship with the dealer, you may as well reach for your wallet, even if there is a specific TSB that covers your problem.

    You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)
  • Finally I've found someone who has a similar problem as me. I have a 2008 Escape Hybrid with 10,000 miles. About 2000 miles ago the rattling started when I would drive slow speeds (10 to 15 MPH) over bumpy pavement. You can hear the rattling from the suspension and also feel the rattle in the steering wheel. The dealer just gives me a shrug. Other than this I love the car. What was your outcome?

    George
  • I've got the same situation, EXCEPT that it't leaning towards the drivers side. Both front and rear springs have been swapped from side to side with no change. Has anyone run across this at all???
  • Hello, I also bought a 2008 XLT 6Cylider in July 2008. At around three weeks into driving it I had a grinding noice and could also feel it in the steering when just backing out of a parking stall or turning either direction. They replaced the front struts twice and then packet grease in between two 'plastic' discs that are on the new struts. This helped for three months and it was back again. They don't know what it is. Then a 'clicking sound' started no matter whether going forward or backing up. They replaced the wheels twice and still happens. I now have taken it to another ford dealership service dept and they said they could fix it. Well I left it with them for two days this week and when I drove it out of the service garage the clicking was still happening, I am to go back tomorrow morning. They replaced what they called the dust boots' whatever they are. So I am back to square one again. However, now the steering isn't grinding and feels tighter when driving. I also have the spotting seats which just happened. I think I have a LEMON!!!! Good Luck.
  • I purchased a 2008 in July 2008, within three weeks I had a grinding in the steering, clicking wheels. They have replaced the wheels twice, the struts 3 times and packed grease in the between two plastic discs on the struts. Well the grinding has finally stopped, but the clicking in wheels is driving me crazy. They finally told me it is the coating on the wheels. My wheels look like chrome but when you tap them they sound like plastic.... So I have taken this up with another Ford Dealer (not the one I bought it from) and they had it two days in the shop this week and said they fixed it by replacing the 'dust boots'... Well it started clicking when I drove it out of the service garage. I take it back tomorrow...Has anyone had this clicking issue. It's sounds exactly like when we were kids and put a baseball card on our bicyle spokes. Please help!!!!
  • I would bet that you have a rock or debris stuck between the alloy and the chrome plastic cladding in your wheel. Your wheels are basically a cheap way to provide chrome looking wheels. The reason why your wheels sound like plastic when you knock on them is...because they are! at least the front face of them. Ford is not the only manufacturer that does this, so don't feel cheated out. Anyway have them look closely at your wheels for loose debris in between or perhaps loose cladding. Have them put and a small amount on adhesive in every soke from behind the wheel to see if that does the trick.
  • asa1022asa1022 Posts: 1
    67,000 miles

    Dealer asking $10K

    Under Blue Book value. Manual.

    Suggestions? Advice?

    Thanks !!!
  • I've owned and used my factory installed sunroof for past 2yrs, only 16K mi. Today a grinding noise upon opening it. I asap drove to dealership, service mgr takes a look and says off track. Tells me that a plastic piece isn't showing up where its' supposed to be. There is NO wind flange for this model, so something else inside I don't know. He states he needs to send pics of it to Ford to submit for full payment. However, they won't pay for it if the missing plastic piece isn't found? He says, they need to see broken piece. He repositioned the glass roof so it can close until Monday's appt. This piece could be scrumbled up into the tracking mechanism he says. I was just astounded to hear him say he needed the pictures to tell the story to Ford. What's up with that? Please help I don't have the $$$$ to pay for this repair.
  • woogsiewoogsie Posts: 7
    Hey if its under warranty, its under warranty.The dealer will try to get away with what they can.If dealer says he needs the piece that broke off then is it stated in the warranty it has to be produced in order to be covered??? Dealers make nothing off warranty work and they will do their best to discourage you! I have 2 fords and I am constantly fighting with the dealer over warranty stuff.Read your warranty over again and call Ford yourself or go to another Ford dealer.It sounds ridiculous that they need pictures and they seem more concerned getting their money back from Ford.They are representing Ford and you should point this out to them.I have had paint peeling on my escape and not once did they take pictures! Go back and tell them to fix it and the fact that he knows what peice is missing is sufficient enough.Trust me if you stand your ground it will be fixed. Also go on the net and do searches on the problem, you will be surprsed on what you will find. Also, with 2008 escapes alot were recalled with transmission fluid leaks.Get that checked out too! They might say it isnt on the recall list but tell them to check it!!!
    Good luck!!
  • UPDATE: 2 YEARS LATER. The Escape has been to the dealer at least 10 times. They are very nice, and the service manager has taken test drives with me and has put it up on the rack numerous times, and dispite all the suggestions I've found on the internet, they claim everything is fine. Here I am with the same problem. Im beyond crazy. I can't understand it. When you drive, it's rattle, rattle, rattle. I guess there's nothing you can do, but live with it. Nobody will help me. AHHHHHHHHHH!!!!
  • bj02176bj02176 Posts: 115
    I had a great 2005 Escape but my 2010 one was a piece of crap

    Right rear brake made a clicking sound, front made a scraping sound on right turns.
    Steering made squeeking sounds on any turns during hot weather. It also had the infamous hooting noise on acceleration.

    The tranmission leaked. Even after the transmission repair was done the transmission would slam violently back and forth trying to find the right gear on occasion. If it happened if you were trying to accelerate from a stop the car would not move, except slowly, very dangerous.

    Trade it if you can but not for a 2010 or 2011 Escape. Fusion was pretty good, had one of the early ones between the 2005 and 2010.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    with 2008 escapes alot were recalled with transmission fluid leaks.Get that checked out too!

    That is true, mind did that, it's actually the transmission cooler that breaches, which is a combination unit with the A/C condensor unit. Very expensive all in one part. The dealer charged me for it, but I was out of warranty, and I didn't expect any special favors.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I'm not disputing what you're saying in the least. However, I have 2 2010 Escapes, and neither of them has given me a dimes worth of trouble at all. So they're not all bad.

    Also, I'm pretty sure the Fusion uses the same power train as the Escape. I'm quite sure the transmission is the same.

    I could be wrong, but I've been told there are only 4 manufacturers of mass production transmissions, and they are purchased by most large auto manufacturers for their cars. Aisan makes transmissions for Ford, GM and I think Toyota too.

    Having said that, once you get a bad one, you usually have a bad one for ever in my experience, and trading the car is not a bad idea.

    I'm sure many others of you know more about this than I do, so I invite correction so that I can learn more.
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,209
    So you didn't get the letter from Ford explaining this problem and how they would fix it for you for free or pay you back if you already paid for it? It was a "customer satisfaction" campaign they issued early last year and I believe it ended in August or something like that.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    No I didn't. Guess I'll contact the dealer and see if they can help me. Thanks.
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,209
    edited May 2011
    Here's some of what was in the letter in case that helps you nvbanker. If you took your '08 Escape to a dealer for any kind of service between 3/10 and 8/31/2010 they were supposed to check your VIN to see if it fell in the range of affected vehicles. If you did take it in for service and they did not do that check, and you can prove it, you might have a case with Ford.

    "(Customer Satisfaction Program 09B10) dated March 2010."

    "Transmission Fluid cooler in your vehicle may develop a crack and leak transmission fluid. If not repaired, this leak may result in rough/harsh shifting and potential damage to the transmission." "Ford Motor Company has authorized your dealer to perform the repairs under this program on your vehicle free of charge (parts and labor). The Customer Satisfaction Program will be in effect until August 31, 2010 regardless of mileage. Coverage is automatically transferred to subsequent owners." If you have previously had this repair done, you may be eligible for a refund. To initiate a refund request, they ask that you give your paid original receipt to your dealer before August 31, 2010. "
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Thank you. I had this work done back in early 09. Pretty sure I don't have the receipt now, but I'll check. Then I'll see. Appreciate the help. It was a pretty expensive repair.
  • alwyn2alwyn2 Posts: 3
    edited May 2011
    On a 2008 Limited AWD V-6 have had problems with air condensation from Air Conditioner draining onto interior Passenger Side Floor exactly in front of passenger seat-about size of about a 8&1/2 X 11" piece of paper. Have had Actuator Doors replaced--First, do they have anything to do with flow of Air conditioner or condesation? 2nd. Have been told by the Dealership that there is an Air Conditioner Condensation Drain on Firewall, near the Passsenger Side--I have as stated in other forums poked a straw in the pipe that sticks out from the firewall under the hood; it seems to reclog, and do not see the condensation water on ground; and then notice the floor wet when no water on ground; also seems as if there are shutters or some type of doors when poke that straw into the small drain pipe(about the size of a Penny in diameter) have not used anything to poke with like a stick or something hard as a screwdriver as not to cause harm--after a couple times just try another straw---what a way to go with a MSRP $32,235 Dollar vehicle, eh? Any advice appreciated
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I have an 08 as well, have had no such issues, but I can't see what the actuator doors could possibly have to do with your problem. So I think you were ripped off there. The hose, once you stick it, drains for a while like it should, but then clogs again??
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