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Saturn S-Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • sattechsattech Posts: 32
    Hello: kaylene
    You have two simple test's that you can perform and both are easy.

    Step 1 push your brake pedal down and see if someone can tell you if your brake lights came on. Not to worry about burnt out bulbs.
    YES go to step 2
    NO possible brake switch.

    Only if lights came on in step 1 go to step 2.

    Step 2 get into your car (key on engine off) and turn every thing off. Windows up will help you cause you need to listen to a noise. DON’T TOUCH THE SHIFTER OK.
    Now push your brake pedal down gently and listen for a clicking noise. Stop, let go, and push the pedal again
    Did you here a clicking noise ?
  • Thanks for the quick response, and I will try this tonight, but what if I do or do not hear a clicking noise?
  • sattechsattech Posts: 32
    Hello: kaylene
    If you don't
    you will need a (DVOM) Digital Volt Ohm Meter. And you need to remove the console.
    You will have a (BTSI)Brake Transaxel Shift Interlock control problem.
  • leodogleodog Posts: 7
    sattech : there were 10 codes according to the owner. The one that kept coming up, after being cleared, is P1650. Driver 2 imput voltage high. Thanks for your help.
  • need purge valve location for 1993 SL2, pic. of location if possible,thank you..
  • sattechsattech Posts: 32
    Hello: boatmoter
    EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid
    Location is in back of the engine block look for the starter. It's behind the housing of the starter. You will see a black/plastic line coming down from the intake that is the vacuum hose for the EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid/Valve. You will need a 10MM socket to remove it. Take note of the lines to the valve before you remove them. Don’t cross them when reinstalling the new Solenoid/Valve.
  • leodogleodog Posts: 7
    Sattech : can you tell me what to do now. Thanks
  • sattechsattech Posts: 32
    Hello: leodog
    P1650 Quad Driver B Circuit
    The computer performs a system check every time you key on. So what you need to do is key on but don’t start the vehicle. The (PCM) Powertrain Control Module command’s a bulb check.
    Look at your indicator lights in the cluster when you do this to see if all of the bulb’s are working ( low fuel, ses light, temp, ..). Not back lighting.

    Check cooling fan control with AC operation turned on. Is fan on

    Check the fuse in the (UHJB) Under hood junction block for Maxi fuse. See if it’s blown
    There is a lot of criteria associated with this failure. If you cant find your problem here you will need to take it to the Dealer
  • Fuse problem? Looked at scheme and dont know which one. Help.
  • sattechsattech Posts: 32
    Hello: burnatt
    Look in your (IPJB) Interment Panel Junction Block.
    Location is down by the passengers left foot.
    Pull the panel off then you will see the (IPJB). Now on the panel you pulled off look at the back side of it and you will see all the information you need. You will be looking for the lighter fuse. 20 amp fuse.
  • Thanks. In other words this fuse is not in the fuse box under the hood?
  • sattechsattech Posts: 32
    Hello: burnatt
    Yes that is correct. You have 2 fuse boxes a (UHJB)&(IPJB).
    Under Hood Junction Block
    Instrument Panel Junction Block
  • 1996 Saturn 1.9L
    On acceleration from low rpm to higher rpm the engine hesitates (coughs).

    When the throttle is held steady there is no noticeable problem, but once you release the throttle and begin to accelerate you get a hesitation.

    I have a cruise control that it will not stay on because of the hesitation. The cruise control shuts off after you release the throttle.

    I have a new ignition, new air cleaner, new spark plugs, new engine temperature sensor, new map sensor, new throttle position sensor, new spark plug wires.

    Help
  • Hello: Helpbingo
    Is your check engine light on ?
    If so you need to go to your area parts store to have your codes checked. 1996 Vehicles and on have OBD2 “ On Board Diagnoses”. That will capture any misfires you may have going on with your vehicle. Wright down all information before clearing.
  • I have no faults on the OBD2. The only fault I had was when I took the sensor plug out and ran it to see if there was a difference and there was none. Plugged it back in and cleared the fault.

    I have an OBD2 scan tool by AUTOTERRA for Palm OS.

    I took the EGR VALVE off today and it was clean at the pinnacle and around the port on both the cylinder head side and the valve side.

    I did spray it with brake cleaner and scrubbed with a tooth brush. All the came off was a little bit of black. The pinnacle moved freely before and after treatment.
    Reinstalled it and torqued the bolt and nut. Started it up and it ran. I am going to work soon and report on any change if any.

    The EGR has 100,000+ Kms on it.
  • There was no difference in performance after cleaning the EGR Valve.
  • Hello: helpbingo
    If your sure that the EGR valve is fine, unplug the valve and drive the vehicle. The engine light will come on but you understand why. See if it still hesitates. Driving under a load your testing the performance of the secondary ignition.

    If it still does.
    Start at the plugs look at them and see what color they are, lightly pepper looking is fine but black is not. Check your fireing order over. Plug gap .040. One other thing you can do is remove all spark plug wires from the coils and put them out of the way. Look at the coil towers and have someone crank the engine over. See if they arck together 4-1,2-3. If not you may have a bad coil.
  • Hello sattech

    I unplugged the EGR and drove the car with no change. I got the engine light on and reset it.

    I checked the spark plugs and they are white. They are bosch copper plus gapped at .050.

    I have Nology capacitor discharge plug wires, AEM cold air intake, a ceramic coated exhaust, and a flow thru cat and muffler, as well as a Complete MSD Ignition.

    I am not comfortable with shorting the coils.

    But I have run on the stock ignition and have had the same problem.

    I have changed the stock coils on the same stock ignition module and had the same problem.

    I have changed the stock ignition module and run the stock coils and and MSD coils and had the same problem.

    I have changed spark pug wires and had the same problem.
  • Hi sattech,

    One other thing I have noticed is that the hesitation always starts after the temperature gauge gets to normal operating temperature.
  • Hi sattech,

    Correction ---- The spark plugs I am using are Bosch Super with copper electrode.

    I have changed the plugs back to the stock AC Delco and have the same problem with hesitation.
  • Hi sattech,

    After a closer look a the spark plugs the outer electrode is white on top, then going gray to black towards the threads.

    The sides of the outer electrode are gray, and the under side of the outer electrode is gray.

    The center electrode insulator is white half way around and black the on other half.

    The face of the plug that circles the center electrode is black. The center electrode is gray with a small amount of light gray deposit on it.
  • i have a 96 saturan sl and just found out a anitfreeze leak near top of or in front of rad does any 1 no any thing about this
  • Hello: helpbingo
    With all the information you gave me there is not much more I can do for you cause you have installed aftermarket items. You may want to consult manufacturer of those items about problem. I can only help those with problems with factory items cause of the resistances in all components. My only thing I can suggest to you is to perform a compression test. And possibly suspect a mechanical problem.
  • Hello: rag rider
    If the leak is at the top of the radiator look at the upper hose outlet. 1 to 2 inches below it in time the bowl cracks and will leak but any kind of leak the radiator is not serviceable. Replacement is necessary.
  • Hi [sattech,

    Thank you for your help. It has got me thinking.

    Will post the cause when I find it.
  • had a squealing noise when car is cold and first started. it progressed to the cooling
    fan motor burning out.replaced motor and the maxifuse for cooling motor.it worked
    great for a few days and then same problem again(cooling motor not coming on.
    chexked new maxifuse and it is ok.are there and relays in the curcuit that may have
    got hot in first motor failure and have now gave out? help kinda stumped on this.

    thanks
    gjk :cry: :(
  • Hello: gjk0726
    I can help but I need some more information about your vehicle. Year, Model, Engine size and then I can help you.
  • 96 sc2 1.9L DOHC, standard 66k miles
    I'm getting about 18-20 mpg city, 22 highway. shifting at 2kRPM each time or 3kRPM has no effect on overall mileage. 3 wire O2 sensor nees to be replaced. will that improve the ileage or is something else wrong? i dont believe there is a leak, burns some oil..dont know whats wrong.
  • Hello: twoplankr22
    First thing I need you to do is check your system out for any failure codes. And then if you can look into your Data stream to view needed information.
    Look at:
    Engine Temp. (cold) . This is the most important sensor that will affect fuel economy.
    Running, what is your map sensor reading because this will affect Ignition timing.
    Spark plug condition
    Air filter
    Let me know about the conditions
    And another thing you can do is fill up and reset your trip meter and see what the mileage per tank.
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