Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

pfran6078

Can anyone tell me the location of the cam sensor on a 2000 ford exolorer 5.0 engine any diagrams would be helpful

THANKS

paul26210

I have a 1998 ford explorer, 4.0L engine that occasional will not start when hot. Engine will start to run and than fail. After an hour it will than start and will not have the problem for up to month. No error codes: replace fuel filter and pump relay.
What could be causing this?

tothemaxx2

2006 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 V6. I am trying to find the OBD-II connector. The Haynes manual says under the left side of the dash, but I can find it nowhere. Any one know?

sohcdonald

Have you checked to see if you have spark from the coil by grounding the lead to the frame? If you don't have spark, it could be the electronic control module (ignition module) or the coil itself. These tend to fail and can cause intermittent problems like yours.

paul26210

I check the plugs and they have a spark, engine start for a second or two, than die

yv1md

Hey there, I have the same vehicle doing the same exact thing when putting into reverse, if you don't mind, what was your fix and how much was it. I am getting ready to take the car into the transmission shop on Monday by advice of my regular mechanic. Thanks

mfed

2004 with 53,000 miles. Dealer said the solenoid pack needed replacement. Estimate was $895. Took it to a local 3rd generation tranny shop who has an outstanding reputation. Agreed it may be solenoids. $350. They drove it for 2 days after repair and said it was better but still happened when the vehicle was on an incline. Same things I noticed. Pulled and rebuilt the tranny. Said there was excessive wear at the servo bore which caused low hydraulic pressure. New solenoids probably masked the problem slightly. Trans now shifts better than new. Now I get to deal with the dealer over timing chain tensioner rattle at 2800 rpms. I would find a highly rated trans shop that you can trust and avoid the dealer unless you really trust them. They are just going to use what the Ford TSB is going to tell them. Good luck!

fidterry

Hello
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer Eddie Baur.
Periodically the tac will work, most of the time it does not. When the tac is not working, the display on the radio does not work. When the tac works, the display on the radio works.

Any ideas/suggestions?

Thank you
Terry

Sorry folks, I thought I was adding a new thread.

fowlerro

Hello this is my first post and boy do I need help :confuse:

I have a 2002 ford explorer that cuts off and wouldnt start back up. The fuse in slot 41 blows and I have to replace it and it start up . what does that fuse belong to ?

gyates

Are you still having the hot start issue? Could be the coolant temp sensor.

mcmurrerd

I have a 1994 explorer and the camshaft position sensor is bad and I am told they are no longer available. I can't seem to find a rebuilt one does any one have any suggestions. Thanks

psobkiewicz

When I accelerate I feel a slight "rubbing/grinding" sensation in the steering wheel and gas pedal. I feel it right around 2000rpm and its most apparent in 2nd and 3rd gear. If I let off the gas, its gone. And I cannot feel it on the highway cruising along. Just during acceleration. Its a V8 AWD model. Anyone experience this?

Thanks.

dave293

I have a 1994 Ford Explorer Limited.
One day it will start, the next, it won't.
I and a friend believe it is a fuel delivery problem as he couldn't hear the fuel pump prime up when the ignition was turned on (had his ear close to gas tank) and when you give it a little starting fluid, it attempts to fire but won't, so we belive it's getting spark.
It dosn't even ATTEMPT to fire when it won't start, but when it DOES start, it fires right off the bat and runs & drives fine, no missing, no bogging, no hesitations, etc.
Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay? Filter? I always believed that a fuel pump is either dead or alive, NOT intermitent. True?
Like the tree said to the lumberjack, I'm STUMPED!

klaning

really need help...my truck just started one day hesitating like it wants to stall out but it doesnt. it just runs like crap. When idling over 2 it shakes, as it drops under 1 it gets really bad. so i changed the plugs and wires, not the problem. i change the fuel filter, still nothing. i also cleaned the terminals. Sometimes while im driving the battery light keeps coming on and says CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM. Ive had the battery and alternator tested, both are good.

psobkiewicz

Voltage regulator?

klaning

can i just replace the voltage regulator? i had the alternator tested, it was fine...idk much about the voltage regulator

psobkiewicz

I had a similar problem with my mercedes.. The alternator and battery tested fine so the mechanic replaced the voltage regulator and solved the problem. Nice an cheap too. I would thing the explorer has to have one as well.

hooscharlie

I have 2002 Explorer with 165k miles. Went in to replace front brake pads. Am being told I need to replace both upper ball joints and both hub assemblies, adding $1500 to repair. Is this a likely area of wear? If were to just replace the pads, what considerations should I be weighing? Am thinking it might be time to scrap the car but hate to let it go as it still runs well.

nutter88

i have a 2000 ford explorer sport with vin (x) ohv 4.0. i have cleaned the (iac) intake air control. still may have a possibility of it being bad. i have tested the mass flow air sensor. im throwing a code which is an o2 sensor saying it is running lean in bank 1. the air box is very loud and vibrates, and most the time it wont rev over 2500 rpm while in park. i would like some suggestions. thank you. i have jus redone the the gaskets from the heads up because of a bad head gasket also. i had to get a new egr tube , and a egr air control sensor. the egr i got is from a bit older 4.0 and the vacuum is in a different location i wouldnt know if that matters. thanks again

nutter88

that does seem possible with them miles . the hub assyembly has sealed bearings in it so they can cost a pretty penny. upper ball joints you can check by lifting the front end off the ground and seeing if you can wiggle the wheel up and down

jodar96

You may or may not need these items. Get a second opinion. Dealer/repair shop could be just looking at your miles and say you need these...

One simple symptom of bad ball joint is the front end loosness that you feel when you go over bumps or you might see it in your front tire wear.

As far as the front hubs go....I don't know what the sign is where both are bad right now... Squeals? dragging when a suspended free wheel is turned? grease leaking out?

Joe

slickjr3

I have a 91 ford explorer V-6 has a fuel leak at the elbow on top of motor. is there a o-ring under the elbow and how do you get it off to replace it. any help would be great

doogie5555

I had this exact same problem with my 04. It turns out it was the battery. The battery had tested “good” at my last oil change just a few hundred miles earlier and then things started to go crazy. The tachometer would read 0 RPM while traveling down the highway. The ABS light was going on and off. The speedometer quit working. The engine ran poorly and battery lights were going on and off. I replaced the battery and have since had no problems on anything of the above for nearly 20K miles.

stronghill

Any advice finding a detailed schematic for my Mountaineer 2002 V8. Feel stupid but I can't locate the motor driving the cable attached to the throttle body. I'd just prefer not spending $50 to have the dealer snap the part into place. Thanks

rodman42866

I am having problems with my right blinker on my 96 Ford Explorer. My left works fine but when I move the arm up to the clicked position, I hear a grinding noise and the light will not come on. Also, as I am moving the arm up, my right light will start flashing but stop when the arms goes into the clicked position.

tpajak

here's my situation

I went to clean my windshield and hit the mist button

it sprayed washer fluid but then the wipers STAYED ON...will not turn off until I restart the vehicle

so I restart and now the wipers are off but not in the lowest position..i have to manually turn switch to time it to just right to turn them off at the bottom of windshield

...started to rain so i turned on the wiper delay
..doesn't work
..just keeps running at normal speed on ALL delay setting

Hi speed and Low speed function works on the wipers but didnt shut off even in the switches off position...then
POP!..pops a fuse

replaced fuse
..POP when I turned key to acc

swapped around relays in box under hood related to wipers according to the owners manual position..NOTHING..still popped when I replaced fuse
HELP!

whodoneit

My father has a 2000 Explorer Limited. The power seat now does not move foreward or back. When you push the button it clicks but no movement, any thoughts? All other functions work. Do I need to remove the seat to inspect the motor?

jplafl

From my experiance from the last 7 Fords Ive had, the service engine light is an indicator that there is not enough air flow, which the biggest culprit is the catalytic converter being clogged. 2 solutions, one replace it, or two hollow the current one out which btw is illegal. Those bad boys are pretty expensive too. All manuals on fords point to the catalytic converter. So dont get stuck changing out o2 sensors and filters trying to fix an issue with a service light poping on. its almost always the cata.

gandyh

Go to www. Alldatadiy. com and sign up for a great resource on your auto...great site and very affordable. Full diagnostics and schumatics.

amatte18

raqglass, I have the car , 2002 limited explorer same problem as you.
between 20 and 30 mph and 40 to 50 the car hesitates. Was there a repair done? what was it and how much did it cost?
amatte@mail.com

nvbanker

Could be the motor, but if it clicks, it's more like the tracks, which may need replacing, but some rear-end grease spread liberally on them may fix the problem. Yes, you need to remove the seat.

expl2179

After 4 visits to dealer for a persistent coolant leak, it was determined that my explorer engine has a cracked head. It leaked coolant into the engine oil. It only has 70,000 miles on it and the dealer says it will be $7,000 to replace engine. I have seen some posts from a ford rep named Cory. Cory, can you offer any assistance on this issue. A $34,000 vehicle with only 70,000 on it needing a new engine is disappointing.

nvbanker

Although the mileage is low, it is an 8 year old car too. Which engine do you have, the 4.6L or the 4.0L? Both are extremely dependable engines and very rugged, will usually go 150,000 without breaking a sweat. Has the engine ever overheated? That could crack a head. Before you let the dealer put in a new engine, I would try to get one at a junk yard and have somebody put that one in, your odds are good that it will be ok. It will be a ton cheaper. OR, trade the car in as it is now. Ford will likely not be able to help you. 8 years is too long to expect anybody to warranty their car. That being said, I certainly understand your disappointment.

expl2179

Its the 4.6L. I started to look at putting an after market engine in like the jasper brand and have one of their installers put it in. I have not gotten prices yet.

nvbanker

Really odd, that 4.6L I have personally owned 3 of, it's the same engine that goes into Taxi Cabs and Police Interceptors as well as Town Cars, which are used as limos, as you have no doubt noticed, and they are just tough as nails. They'll go forever usually. Hopefully, you can find a good price on a replacement. I'm sorry this happened to you. I have an 03 Explorer with that engine in it as well, and have 130,000 miles on it - no problems at all. I know that doesn't make you feel any better. Sorry. Good luck.

kekassing

My friends 96 explorer shows symptoms of having a completely dead battery. under its own power when you turn the key you get no lights, starter response or even power locks. when connected to another vehicle it jump starts with no problem will continue to run after cables are removed and drive as long as it remains on. after being turned off it goes back to having zero electrical power. the battery was installed 2 weeks ago and has been brought in for load testing and shows full charge to rated capacity anybody have any pointer of where to look next

nvbanker

Sounds like a bad ground somewhere around the battery. I would tighten up everything, push, pull and shake all the cables connected to the engine, body or battery, and try that.

southernbella

I have a 1997 Ford Explorer, 6 cyl automatic w/117k miles. For the past few weeks, when I try to brake, the rpms are surging before coming to a complete stop, and then it idles at a higher rate than normal. Recently in the last few days, it seems like the car struggles to hit 2000 RPMS but then it stays stuck - and I mean stuck - not even going down when I take my foot completely off the gas pedal. Today the RPMS stayed stuck 3 times for long periods of time, causing my engine temp to go high and the check engine light to come on. Once I braked, the RPMS came back down, the engine temp went back to normal and the check engine light went off. Any ideas?

nvbanker

Wow, you need to have someone qualified check this car, this is not safe. It could be something as mechanical as a bad accelerator cable, or as complex as a bad Mass Air Flow sensor, or Throttle Position Sensor, or any one of 10 other components. If the check engine light doesn't stay on, I would lean towards the cable, but please get it in somewhere and have it looked at. It's probably fairly simple and not too expensive, but it needs immediate attention. :surprise:

lilypad511

I would definitely be interested in participating in a class action suit. I have a 2004 Explorer, 74,000 miles and the transmission just went out. This is infuriating that Ford can get away with this.

mysti1031

Husband's '04 Explorer (Eddie Bauer edition) has been nothing but problems. We have owned the car for 4.5 years, and:

Had 2 wheels fall off
Axel bend
Replaced transmission
misc other stuff

The latest....the car stopped working while idling in traffic. Went into "limp home" mode. Wouldn't turn over or do ANYTHING. Towed it to the mechanic who thought that the key dropped code. After trying a second key and not having it work, our local guy said that he thought it was the security system and that the dealership would have to do it. The security light was flashing very fast, which led him to think that was the problem.

Car is on it's way to the dealership.

If this has happened to you...what kind of cost was it? We know that the dealership will have to scan it and figure out specifically what is wrong, but are we talking a few hundred dollars...a few thousand???

nvbanker

My son drove our Explorer over a median curb at 40 MPH once, blew both front tires, put new tires on, the alignment wasn't even out of whack! They're that tough. If you have had 2 wheels fall off, that car has been severly mangled, or someone hasn't done repairs right. Get rid of it.

mcwell

The sympton you have is misleading. The fix is to replace the heater control valve located next to the water pump connected inline with the heater core supply line on the return side. You will need to pull down the right wheel well skirt to see it. $20 part and new antifreeze. Also the mounting braket may not fit the replacement part. Just snip the mounting ring and spread it open with pliers to fit. Double check the vacumn line to see if it is working by placing your finger on it with the car running. It should stick to your finger!You can do this!

mcmurrerd

The blower on my '94 Explorer does not come on all the time. Any suggestions as to the cause.

nvbanker

Replace the blower motor. It's going out.

mcwell

If your blower motor works normally some of the time, then you probably have a lose connection or corrosion on a terminal. Try moving the wires around with the switch on and see if you get a response. It could be the motor but if it works okay somtimes and not others it is probably the switch or the power-12 volt supply. Double check the fuse box for loose fuses or connections on the blower motor itself. You should be able to test the wires under the hood at the firewall on the passenger side with a volt meter. If you dont know how to use a volt meter, you will need help with this repair.

volek4god

I have a 97 Ford Explorer Sport V-6 with SOHC. When I start the vehicle, the engine idle races to about 3000 RPM's and after 15 seconds slows to about 750 RPM's. When I put it in gear it again surges until I come to a stop. Then it will slow again. I have replaced the Idle Air Control Valve, the Throttle Position Control Sensor, cleaned the MAF Sensor and still does same thing. Could it be O2 sensors, vacumn leak or what? Mike

nvbanker

Do you have a check engine light on? My first guess would be a bad intake manifold gasket leaking air.

volek4god

NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. Sprayed started fluid in vicinity of intake manifold. No change in rpm's. :sick: http://static.ed.edmunds-media.com/edmunds-webassets/1.13.60/img/forums/webxicon- s/emotorcons/emo_sick.gif

volek4god

I disconnected the idle Air Control Valve and the problem with high idle stopped. It still spits and sputters at idle speed with a minor miss. Anyone have a solution?