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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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  • jpaddsjpadds Posts: 1
    Hi there. Your message caught my eye. I have a 94 Ford Explorer which has been driving me crazy lately. Even though I just put almost a grand into fixing some leaky seals in the transmission, the most frustrating problem is something electrical (or so I assume and have been told). Sometimes certain lights just decide to remain on after having turned the vehicle off. Mostly it's the parking lights in the front and the dashboard lights and the tail lights. Mechanics have tried to figure it out for years but haven't had the slightest clue b/c it's so hit and miss. Usually they eventually turn off but just recently I've had to start disconnecting the battery. So annoying!!! I've been told it wouldn't be worth the $ to fix. Got any suggestions? Or what happened with your electrical prob?
  • Do you expect to get a reasonable answer with out giving us enough information?

    Exactly which V6 engine do you have, the OHV or the SOHC?

    How many miles?

    "I went to start it up and nothing" Does that mean the the starter engaged, the engine turned over, but did not start,
    OR does that mean there was no click, no starter engagement?

    If no starter, how is the battery charge? Do the headlights come on and stay brite when trying to crank the engine?

    If it turns over, does it seem to turn over fast enough? Got fuel? Check ignition for spark. Has fuel filter been changed? Try a new one if not sure. Check fuel pressure while cranking.

    Fuel filter should be changed every 30,000 miles or every 2 years, whichever comes first. A good way to remember is to change fuel filter, and flush & bleed the brake lines at the same time you get the automatic transmission fluid flushed & filter changed every 30,000 miles (30k, 60k, 90k, 120k, 150K, 180k, 210k).

    "I really do not have the expendable cash to be constantly repairing this vehicle"
    Try not to get depressed about it, it may be a simple fix. Try to budget some money to set aside to keep this vehicle running. All vehicles need repairs eventually, especially when they get older. A 10 year old vehicle will start needing more parts replaced, other than normal maintenance items, like brakes, suspension parts, tires and light bulbs. You will maybe need window motors($70 ea), alternator(150), starter($150), air conditioner (big bucks $600 or more for major repair), radiator($200), oxygen sensors ($50 ea) and those are just the PARTS prices for doing it yourself. Having those parts replaced by a mechanic will cost you AT LEAST twice as much. I buget $100 a month to maintain my 2000 XLT doing ALL the work myself, and the older they get, the more you have to budget, a 1995 may need $140 to $150 or more a month if the transmission goes out. The Best insurance is a good maintainance program & use a good synthetic motor oil and a good synthetic motor oil filter every oil change, and keep ALL maintenance up.
    I use Mobil One Synthetic motor oil and a Purolator Pure One Synthetic motor oil filter every 7,500 miles. I've been doing that for many years on several high milage vehicles and never had any engine problems (91 Exp, 93 Exp, 97 Exp, 99 Blazer, 2000 Exp).
    Good Luck
    E.D.
  • My 2000 V8 5.0L cuts out at 108 mph.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Thank goodness, huh? My 99 Navigator cut out @ 109. That was scary enough.
  • dmitridmitri Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 ford explorer sports utility truck and for some odd reason i notice that in the mornings when i start the car off and shift to reverse the car gets a bit jumpy on reverse...but after a few minutes to warm up...it will function normally. This just happened recently and I'm not sure if it's something to do with either the tranny or with the engine....Help, inputs are highly welcomed and appreciated
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    There may be a recall on that for you. It's definitely a trans problem.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Service it completely, if it doesn't ïmprove, you may need more extensive work.
  • ralph213ralph213 Posts: 1
    i have a 98 ford explorer v-6 4.0 . ive been having a problem with it starting. it use to turn over and then start. it started taking longer and longer for it to start. now it wont. it just turns over but it wont start. i had the coil pack tested its was replaced a while back. when it was replaced the mechanic told my girl friend that it just was not going to start one day. he told her what part needed to be replaced but she doesnt remember. can you help ???
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    it's a fuel line check valve.
  • OK I'm a little scared at this one. I have not been doing too well on the beach with this Explorer. The Jeeps that I had seemed better. I was going along and it just didn't feel right but , then I realized, as I was about to get buried, that it felt like the brakes were on. I stopped , even tried 4 wheel low and was backing out of a mess when it happened. It felt like my foot was pinned on the brake , then smoke up front everywhere and the ABS light came on. I stopped shut down and waited a while , Dug a little, then got going again in reverse (still). The light eventually reset itself on the way home ( the ABS was not working when it was on ) and the ABS is working again. My question is , well I guess , what the hell happened? Explorers can't be that bad offroad. Is the ABS hooked to some kind of traction control that didn't like my wheels spinning in the sand? I'm fearing thousands at a dealer on this one. This truck is no use to me if I can't take it on the beach here on Long Island. Any help please.
    Rob
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    While you're waiting for a reply here you may find some useful tips in SUVs for Beach Sand.

    tidester, host
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,837
    A reporter is interested in speaking with people who used to own a Ford Explorer, but have since traded it in for a different vehicle. If you’re a former Explorer owner and would be interested in speaking with this reporter, please send your name and daytime phone number to Pam Krebs, Edmunds.com PR, at pkrebs@edmunds.com by Thursday, July 28.

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • mereddameredda Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I'm new to these forums. Took a quick look, but could not find an answer that I need. I hope you can help. I have a 2001 Mountineer (Explorer in disguise), with the V8 engine. I took it on a long road trip over the weekend (400 miles), and had no problems with it. However, when my wife went to start it this morning, it started, but as soon as she engaged reverse, the engine died.

    She tried this a few times. Each time it started ok, but as soon as she put it in reverse - it died. She tried idling the engine for a few minutes, but the same problem. Eventually, after about idling for 10+ minutes it was ok. There is not a lot of gas left in it - but it says about 55 miles - and it's not on a steep slope or anything (plus it starts when she turns the ignition).

    Anyone heard about this problem with Explorers?
  • mtnman1mtnman1 Westerville, OhioPosts: 382
    I have a 2004 Mountaineer V-8 w/AWD. My car started the chirping soon after I bought it. I have had the Clutch assembly replaced and then when that didn't work had the Clutch re-gapped. Neither worked. I have had it in for this 4 times and it still has not been resolved. They even sent a Regional Customer Service Rep up form Cincinnati to my dealer in Columbus and it happened to be a cool spring day. It would not chirp. Now that it's hot and muggy the chirp is driving me nuts. I love this vehicle, but to buy a car with a MSRP of almost $38,000 and have to live with this is ridiculous. I've gotten to the point where I'm just trying to ignore it by having the radio on or the fan blower on a higher setting. Let me know if you ever get yours resolved.
  • broken2broken2 Posts: 1
    I have only owned my eddie baur for 5 months.It has 72000 miles and drives well except for this horrible noise that you could hear a block or 2 away as your driving.I thought it may be the brake shoes but it seems to be the drive train and has a small leak that looks like transmission fluid.It has a sealed unit.Now the check engine light is on and its going to ford today.

    Another problem occured while i was driving. I turned on the a/c and noticed that the fan would not turn on then it started to smoke up inside and out so i stopped and it seemed to be a blown fan motor.I unpluged it so it would not catch on fire.

    What the heck is going on with this vehicle.Nothing but problems lately.Thank god for the warrenty i purchased because i do not have the money for this beast. :mad:

    If anyone knows of the problems i'm having could you please give me your opinions.Thanks
  • exploded99exploded99 Posts: 67
    Maybe the Idle Air Control valve. These can cause starting issues.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    A little more info about your explorer would be good to know. It sounds like you have Traction Control, which would do pretty much what you described if you had wheels spinning out of speed with the others. The brakes would indeed be applied. Traction control isn't good in loose sand. You should turn it off I believe in that type of application. It's good in snow and ice.
  • No, I don't think the truck has traction control. That would just be too easy. I was thinking that there was some sort of standard , automatic type system that came with the truck but I guess not.Something is going on up front to turn on the ABS . I am finding out that there are 2 different sensors on each front wheel but have not been able to confirm that they would cause this. Thanks
  • fzapperfzapper Posts: 1
    My daughter has a 1997 Ford Explorer with A4WD. The mechanic says the front diff is trashed and will cost at least $600 to fix.

    We live in a part of the country where you almost *never* need 4WD. My thought is remove the front half-axles and front driveshaft and drive it as a 2WD. The mechanic advises against this without giving a specific reason (because he wants the money?)

    Will it hurt the xfer case to drive it this way? After reading some descriptions of A4WD it looks like the A4WD works by applying front/rear drive clutches to proportion the 4WD. I don't know what type of sensor (speed vs torque) is used for
    this, but in the worst case just switch to full-time 4WD and the front clutch spins (unloaded) while the rear is just locked in (as in a standard 2WD) but no power is delivered to the front axle.

    Thanks in advance!
  • pt1pt1 Posts: 2
    Is anyone aware of any problems with the 2005 Explorer. Please let me know as I'm thinking of purchasing today - because of incentives. Any feedback will help.

    Thanks.
  • fordexp1fordexp1 Posts: 14
    I purchased an 05 Explorer E.B. V6 in January. Everything works well and drives great, except for the gas mileage. If I were to buy one again...I would buy the V8 engine. My business partner bought almost the identical car with the V8 and his gas mileage is even better than the V6, plus a little more fun to drive. Great car for the money!!!
  • pt1pt1 Posts: 2
    I thought the V6 would have better gas mileage than the V8. I'll keep that in mind. Why did you choose the E.B. model.

    Thanks.
  • rr5336723rr5336723 Posts: 1
    Rear end started to "hmmm" at 39,000 miles. Just out of warrantee. Took it back to Ford dealer at 50,422 miles, who replaced all the differential bearings. All the bearings were "pitted". Ford warrantee this procedure for 12,000 miles. Differential again started to "hmmm" again, not bad at first but began to get louder. Unfortunately I moved some 800 miles in the mean time. Took the SUV back to another Ford dealer at 57,641 miles, who then said the problem was axle hub bearings. Both were replaced at no charge. However I still have the "hmmm" but it is constant on the pulling side of the differential and growing louder. Dealer now states the it is the ring and pinion and Ford will not warrantee the ring and pinion. I have owned Ford's all my life starting with my first Ford in high school, a vintage '37. Never had a differential go out on any vehicle Ford or General Motors. Now at 58,000 miles I am stuck with this HOWLING SUV. and no where to turn. NO MORE FORD's
    P.S
    Now I am hounded by FORD to buy an extended warrantee for $2600 Hyundai's are looking good with a 100,000 mile warrantee.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    "My business partner bought almost the identical car with the V8 and his gas mileage is even better than the V6"

    The moon and the stars must be in alignment. The V8 does not get better mpg than the V6. The V8 MAY get 1or 2 mpg LESS THAN THE V6-but it doesn't get better- no way.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Wellllll, chuck - there are certain conditions where my V-8 actually does do better than the V6's I've had before. They are rated pretty closely anyway, and if you are driving the truck hard - the V6 works so hard to keep up, it uses more gas than the V-8 will to do the same job, because it doesn't have to work so hard. If this guy is on the gas hard all the time, the 8 may actually do better. If you drive them like the EPA does, on a dynomometer, you would be right.
  • Can anyone tell me about Roll-A-Long? Is it something special? Broncomike
  • comstockcomstock Posts: 1
    drag about the electrical, saw your tranny leak prob, I have a 94 also. Have you had any issues trailering any thing ? I pulled my boat home from the coast yesterday. When i got home noticed a steady leak ? steady heavy drip while running.
  • I had a similar problem in my 1997 Ford Exploer, except mine was with a bad front driveshaft, also a similar cost for repair (part alone was $600). I asked if I could just take it off. The mechanics explained it to me like this: Since I had an automatic all-wheel-drive system (called control-trac 4x4, the selector inside the car reads "auto" "4 high" and "4 low"), the truck will automatically try to send power to the front wheels only when the rear wheels are slipping (I can feel mine kick in even in rain). Because of this, not having any front drive shaft, or differental, will make the car in effect stall, because all the power is going to the front. When you lock in the 4wd, some goes to the rear maybe 50% or 65%, and gas mileage will tank since lots of power is wasted on the front of the car. Maybe it would be best to fix it. I found a reasonable part from a junkyard for $100 and saved a bundle, its been working for two years now with no problems. If you do this, be sure to inspect the parts and make sure they are good.
  • I have a '97 M-Mountaneer and found the power steering has a screen in the bottom of the reservoir. I emptied it and removed all the 'crud' that was blocking the screen. Seems to have helped.
  • On my '97 M-Mountaneer AWD 101000miles, I have a 50+ shudder/rumble that I am unable to get rid of. What was the symptoms of your bad drive shaft? I too have wondered if the frond drive shaft could be removed to help with my trouble shooting efferts. I have replaced: both front bearings, all shocks/struts, tires, lower ball joints, front/rear drive shafts balanced. I am up to the half shafts but do not get any of the low speed clicking. It feels just like a tire out of balance but have had this problem for 3 years and nothing changes with tire maintanance.
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