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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    there should be no cap, all the exploder engines since I started looking at them -- two 4 liters and the 5 liter in 98 -- are full electronic ignition with multicoil packs.

    you need to replace plugs and wires. be sure to use antiseize on the plug threads and silicone dielectric grease in a ring inside both boots for each wire. this keeps moisture out and also lubricates the boot so it doesn't melt to the plug.

    get a chunk of fuel line hose, too. make the first turn or two on the new plugs through vacuum hose slipped over the insulator, NOT through a socket wrench. that way, it's impossible to strip out the plug threads by crossthreading the plug. you can still kill 'em by muscling down the wrench at the final tightening, so don't go past 10-16 foot pounds.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    that's a 4x4, if it's manual 4x4 it's wheel bearings or the hub. if it's AWD, you have a bad halfshaft. repair costs are fairly similar.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    recent owners manuals are availiable online for download... scan around a little bit from www.fordvehicles.com and you should find the link. service department can order the manual otherwise.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    1) sounds like somebody replaced the back lock cylinder without rekeying the new one to fit the car keys. so a rookie did it. a locksmith can fix it.

    2) the manufacturer code is not changeable, it's hardcoded. you are aware, right, that there are only a few hundred key notch combinations as well for the standard locks? you generally don't have to worry about the pro thieves, they don't need any steenking keys or codes. it's all to slow and stop the casual thieves. besides, windows break out with a rock in the hand or a roll of quarters, and that's the usual route thieves take to rip your Stuff off. don't leave it in the truck and it won't be ripped.

    merry christmas.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    2002 ltd, 45k miles

    we leave the climate control in auto all the time. sometimes, when the vehicle starts up, there is an odd smell - almost smoky, but not real bad. dissipates after a couple of minutes. seems to be in cold only, not during the summer.
  • I have a 1994 ford explorer with the 5 speed manual transmission. I was having shifting problems after warming up I recently replaced the clutch master cylinder. After replacing it I wasn’t able to disengage the clutch I bleed the system repeatedly with out any success finally I re- installed the original master cylinder and was able to get a partial clutch I still think air is in the system however I am unable to remove it. There are no adjustments for this type of clutch. Any suggestions?
  • You're lucky! Like you, an '02 Explorer XLT. However my 4x4 quit :lemon: working entirely ... course, I found this out when I was stuck in a snow drift! No word yet on whether considered part of powertrain warranty, but went ahead & had dealer order the $435 shift control module. Will keep you updated, but I'd almost bet on that being your problem too. Factor in that I've only had it since Feb 1, it had less than 36,000 on it when I purchawsed it. Had to replace left front flange & belt tensioner (fortunately, caught those within 24 hours of taking posession), cruise control pigtail, a speed control something or another that caused the ABS light to come on & stay on ... now this!! At 46,000 miles!!! :lemon:
  • My son has a 2002 Explorer and the ABS light keeps coming on, what did you (jerri1960) replace to correct this problem?
  • bglinbglin Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I want to install the kit but I need to have a live electrical positive connection which is off when the car is turned off. I had hoped to use the cigarette lighter connection wiring but it is always on. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to tap into a ignition off line?

    Thanks
  • Hi,
    My 1999 ford Explorer sport has no horn and cruise control working. I checked the fuse box, the fuse for the horn blowed out. However, after I put a new fuse and try to horn it, the fuse immediately blowed out again. It seems there is short somewhere. Any suggestion for this problem, is it a bad clockspring? Thanks a lot.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,598
    If the drop in gas milage is fairly recent, say since your area's temperatures dropped below 50*, the colder out doors temperature is probably the reason. The number of miles you get vs what you were getting is about a 10% drop. This is common in colder weather. If the temperature drops regularly into the 20's you should expect about another 10% drop in gas milage. Depending on how far you drive, the slight power loss could be due to the engine and oil not being warmed up which means a less efficient running engine (the cause of lower gas milage).
  • wpncwpnc Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Explorer V6 SOHC 4WD w/117K that makes the same noise. Did you ever determine the cause of this noise? Thanks.
  • We have a 2000 Ford Explorer Limited. It stalled twice yesterday and then just died. The engine would turn over, but would not start again. Repair shop said the computer system was wet and would need to be replaced ($650). It is still under warranty, but Ford says they will not cover if it is wet.

    Supposedly it can get wet by being parked uphill or by going through very deep puddles and neither of these apply. We bought the vehicle new and live in the Seattle area so we are always in the rainy weather and this is the first time this has happened.

    Has anyone else dealt with this?
  • Wet with what, Water? You havn't been driving through any five foot deep puddles lately, have you? I would really doubt that water could get into the computer, it certainly should be sealed. What repair shop did you take it to, dealer or a local garage? What diagnostic codes did they read from the computer? I never heard of this happening before. I would like to hear input from others on this subject.
  • We took it to a local garage, but we have gone to them for years. I don't know the diagnostic codes. The owner of the shop said either we went through huge puddles or parked uphill in a rainstorm. Neither apply. It has rained a lot, but we have lived in Seattle since we bought the ford new.

    It seems odd to me that this would happen now.
    Thanks for your reply.
  • Also, the Ford dealer told us that they don't seal the computers, that no manufacturers do. Our repairman said that if the part were sealed it would not have happened. He checked to see if there was a recall. The car is under cover most of the day and no puddle crossing.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    "The owner of the shop said either we went through huge puddles or parked uphill in a rainstorm. Neither apply. It has rained a lot, but we have lived in Seattle since we bought the ford new."

    It sounds like technology has passed this "good old boy" by. This is what you tell a customer when you have no idea what is wrong with the car and how to fix it. Pay the money and take it to the dealer. They will charge you between $75.00 and $100.00 to diagnose it and you can go from there. If you wish, once you find out what is wrong you can take it back to your mechanic. Although by the sounds of things I would run far, far away from him!
  • I own a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport which keeps stalling out. The truck turns on and then right after that it stalls, I try to keep it running for a while by holding it at 2500 rpm but as soon as I take my foot of it stalls again. If you have any ideas of what might be wrong or suggestions please help. Thanks
  • I had a 2000 Expedition XLT Sport, and it stalled on my wife twice, First time while entering an expressway. The dealer said it was a "ground bolt" that sheared off. Yeah, okay, The second time it stalled she was doing 65 on the expressway...Oh, and while I'm at it...what is it with Ford Roadside Assistance??? If you're on a highway, you're screwed. They'll only come to help you out on local roads. Oh, and this time the Dealer replaced the computer "brain". Since all of my vehicles are leased, this was covered under warranty.
  • I've examined the computers on both of my Explorers and found they are mounted in the firwall from the engine compartment side. If they are not sealed and are sensitive to water, it seems that they should at least have put a splash guard over the computer to keep the water off them.
    So, if I blasted the computer with a water hose, it would fry it? I won't try that anytime soon. I also wash off my engine at the car wash once in a while, so I will be careful not to direct any blast of water towards it, a good thing to know.
  • jikbaljikbal Posts: 1
    On below freezing days, the ext. temp gague starts around 44 degrees (F) and starts climbing upto 100 degrees. After it reaches 70+ degrees, the heater starts blowing cool air. I suspect it has something to do with the air mixture. If I press the Recirculate button, I get hot air again. Interestingly, pressing the recirculate button also makes the AC light come on (regardless of where the air is aimed at). Then I can press the AC button to turn it off.

    Took it to the dealer, and they kept the car for 2 days, but just as luck would have it, it behaved perfectly when at the dealer. And they claimed the computer codes show nothing wrong. Any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance
  • When my ABS light came on, it stayed on. The dealership had to replace a speed control (I know, go figure ... something to do with the speed turning on the ABS light). The really scarey part, if that is the problem & you don't replace it, it can screw up the transmission!! Talk about a Gordian knot!!
  • I checked the codes on it, and replaced crank sensor, water temp sensor.
    still shows 116 & 114 in that order

    Before that, I checked for spark... yes we have spark
    also fuel... yes good
    also inertia switch with meter
    also relays under hood with meter
    also all fuses a okay

    sometimes when I go to see if I did anything to make it run I'll get a POOFF backfire within the air manifold.
    white smoke

    I don't have an alarm system either

    thanks so much
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    This sounds like the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). My 97 model did the exact same thing about a year ago. The part is around $40 at AutoZone, and takes about 10 minutes to replace. On mine, it was located on the air intake, driver's side, a silver colored part. 2 bolts hold it in, and it has a small wiring harness plugged into it. On mine, the check engine light never came on, but it would not run unless I kept my foot on the gas pedal. Hope this helps.
  • Put the new IAC in and still no start.

    What ever is controlling the injectors is out I think.

    I have fuel,spark and air, there just not meeting in the chamber...

    The exhaust pipe doesn't smell like fuel at all

    And yes the motor is blowing air.

    I have had the normal lifter tap, but that can't be the problem you think?

    Thanks everyone

    PS this is my daily transpo!
  • I shot some starting fluid in the intake with no turnover results
    Oh boy, what does this mean?
    G
  • come on guys err.. gals
    help me me out here..

    It's just a machine not your crazy neighbor kid
    gh
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,972
    While waiting for responses in here, check out the "No Start" Problems discussion.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • OK groovhog, let's check an obvious thing first. When you said you shot starting fluid into the intake, did you mean you shot it into the air filter end of the Air Tube, or did you shoot it into the throttle body? It is critical that the MAF on the AIR TUBE near the air cleaner detects AIR FLOW through the AIR TUBE, it sends a signal to the computer telling how much air in going through it and the computer assumes that this is the amount of air going into the engine, and adjusts the fuel injector rate accordingly. The More air it detects, the More fuel it injects. The LESS air it detects, the LESS fuel it injects. If the Air Tube Leaks or has a hole in it, the Computer will not allow the injectors to inject the correct amount of fuel. A hole in the Air Tube will cause the fuel injectors to barely pump any fuel or none at all. So, the first thing to do is remove the AIR TUBE between the Air Filter and the Throttle Body and Check it very carefully for any cracks or holes, especially underneath where it normally can't be seen. This is a common problem for older Explorers. Check that first, then we'll go from there. Make sure the MAF is working, with no dirt clogging it.
  • I just checked the codes:

    114 is "Intake air Sensor out of self test range"

    116 is "Coolant Temperature Sensor out of self test range"
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