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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kidwelfarekidwelfare Posts: 1
    I just got passed down my uncles 91 Expl. It needs a fuel pump which Im going to buy and replace this weekend with a friends help. Im going to get the manual and follow it of course, however I'm wondering if there's any extra advise anyone can offer. Special tools? Whats the most reliable aftermarket brand? Napa etc. I know I need to drop the fuel tank so any pointers would probably help. Thank you.
  • tmgreentmgreen Posts: 2
    +Seriously though, I just bought my mountaineer about 2 months ago and just the other day I started to hear a noise coming from the passenger side dashboard that sounded like air leaking. Then conveniently just yesterday the air bag light started blinking and then just stayed on. Too add more misery to my already wonderful day, the vents on the front of the dashboard decided to stop working so the only A/C I had was on my legs and here in Ohio the humidity is so bad that you could stand still and break a sweat, so needless to say I wasn't too happy with this investment and won't be until I can figure out why it hates me so much. By the way, I disconnected the air bag (I have a 9 month pregnant wife and I wasn't going to take a chance) and that didn't solve the leaking air problem. Someone please help me out if you have any idea what is wrong.
  • You will need to have fuel line disconnect tools, available at any auto parts store.
  • The air sound you heard could be a vaccuum leak in the AC controls hoses. This could account for the air not blowing out of your vents. Can the AC control make air blow out anywhere else, other than the heater discharge vent near the floor, do you get any air out of the dash vents in any control position? Look for a loose vaccuum hose under the dash. Did the air stop blowing out of the vent AFTER you disconnected the air bag, and how did you disconnect the air bag? Did you disconnect it in the dash, or did you just pull the SRS fuse?
  • tmgreentmgreen Posts: 2
    I don't get any air at all out of the dash vents. Also the air stopped blowing out of the vents before I disconnected the air bag, and I disconnected it through the glove compartment under the dash, which was the last thing I did. Thanks for the advice, I will check under the dash tomorrow morning and get back with you. In the meantime, do you happen to know what could be causing the air bag light to come on and stay on. This is my main concern at the moment.
  • If you litterally unpluged the Air Bag under the dash, that is why the Air Bag light is on, it senses that the Air Bag is not connected and sees that as a fault, therefore it lights the Air Bag yellow indicator light. The SRS fuse should be unpluged before the technician touches the Air Bag connection, wait 10 minutes after unplugging the fuse to be sure there is no residual electrical charge. Air bags can be very dangerous, they recommend to disconnect the battery before working on Air Bag Systems, called SRS (supplimental restaint system). Air bag systems should only be worked on by qualified technicians. After all power is disconnected, the technician can reconnect the Air Bag and then disable the system by removing the SRS fuse. You can't disable the Air Bag on just one side on this system.

    You didn't answer my question about where the air is blowing. Does air blow out anywhere? Where? I assume it was blowing out the bottom at the heater discharge, that is what usually would happen if it does not blow out the dash vents or defroster vents. This would still point to a problem with the air doors, which are usually controlled by vacuum motors, some of the doors now are electric controlled, I know the blend door is an electric motor and the temperature knob turns a electric poteniometer that moves the blend motor position. Since you heard the hiss, which sounds like it could be a leak from a loose or broken vaccuum hose, that would be the most likely thing to look for first.
  • aspenceraspencer Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Ford Explorer 4.0.. the other day it stop getting spark so i replaced the ignition control module.. now I have plenty of spark but its not getting fuel.. I know its getting fuel to the fuel rail and I can get it to run with quick start but it wont stay running.. someone told me it had to be the pcm( power control module )but I dont want to pay that kind of money if Im just going to guessing.. please any info would be a help.
  • jarmendijarmendi Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 explorer that seems to have a whistling sound that is getting progressively worse.It used to come on solely when the A/C came on but now starts up every single time.I had it checked out by a mechanic in the family whom assumed it was related to the air filter/hose.Sound went away temporarily but has returned and will not go away.I am hoping that someone has experienced similar problems and can shed some light on this annoying deffect.Thanks in advance!
  • amberj32amberj32 Posts: 1
    I have a 02 Ford Explorer. I bought it used August 05 and the a/c was working fine. Just the past couple of months it worked on and off and now the past couple weeks it hasn't worked at all. It sounds like the compressor turns on, but the air is just hot coming out.(depending on the temp. outside) The heater works fine. I thought it might need more refrigerant but when a friend hooked it up with gauge it was in the red section, which on the bottle says take to get serviced, major problem. Does anyone have any ideas? I don't want to take it to a mechanic and get ripped off.
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Posts: 56
    What is the deal on the 1998 Explorer V6 SOHC rear spark plug, on the passenger's side? I have tried for 2 hours and could not fit my hand or arm to reach the plug wire boot. Let alone get a socket to remove the old plug and put in a new one and wire. Any thoughts?

    Nick
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like it is leaking refrigerant, could be due to any number of problems. A reputable garage could do an air-conditioner leak test which would tell you where the problem was.
  • fixitrodfixitrod Posts: 67
    We own two 1998s ...one V6 SOHC and one V8. One of the most difficult maintenance items is replacing the passenger side spark plugs. Until I discovered going through the wheel well. degree of difficulty went down significantly using extension sockets. Anyone having problems with failing door locks on drivers side. It seems switch is not the problem because when I replced it with one from another door they still stick. I jumped the contacts and still no locking howevr switch unlocks but is now beginning to fail at that. It seems mechanical out at the mechanism??? Any ideas appreciated
  • niwdogniwdog Posts: 2
    1994 Explorer Eddie Bauer - 4.0 V6 with 164,000 miles.
    I have a few issues and any advice would be appreciated. I recently purchased the Explorer from my sister, who had taken good care of it until a year ago. It has just been sitting and driven only occasionally. I knew there were a few issues, but got it for a very cheap price. The transmission seems to be loosing fluid. If it sits for a month or so, fluid has to be added. When I drove it 400 miles or so, half a quart had to be added. Any suggestions? Also, when slightly heavy acceleration or going up an incline it sounds like the valves rattle. I filled up with Premium Gas and added octane buster, this seemed to help. But, I can still hear some rattle. What causes this and is there a simple solution? Any mechanical failure to be concerned about? Also, the battery gage & fuel gage do not work. I have heard that it may often be the fuel float causing the fuel gage problem. Is there anything I can personally check to find the cause? Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
  • smiles428smiles428 Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 Ford Explorer with a V6 4.0 liter engine with a manual transmission. It has been relatively problem free for the past 6 years, but recently I have noticed a squeak/chirp coming from what seems to be the upper rear portion of the engine, though it is hard to pinpoint. It is intermittent and some days worse than others. I cannot figure a pattern of its occurrence, it happens when the engine is cold as well as hot, with the A/C on as well as off. I have done the few things that I could think of, even though it seems to be coming from the rear of the engine I changed the belt and idler pulley, but it still makes the sound.

    There is no drop in performance of the engine, it is just annoying and I fear that if it goes unchecked I may do some serious damage to the engine (i only have 75,000 miles on it. Has anyone else experienced anything similiar? My father-in-law owns a Taurus with a V6 and he is experiencing the same sound.

    Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

    Jim in Houston
  • For the valve rattling, clean the MAF sensor, (Mass Air Flow sensor) located on the air tube near the air cleaner box.
    If fuel gauge reads empty all the time, replace fuel sending unit float.
    For Transmission leak, look underneath to see where fluid is coming from, most likely the pan gasket needs replacing. It could also be a leak at the tail housing seal or the front pump seal.

    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • ashevalleyashevalley Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Mercury Sable with a similiar noise. I know it is not a belt or belt tensioner. I took the car to a mechanic and he stated that it is a seal on the engine tranmission coupling. He stated that this not an uncommon problem with fords in general. The problem is that it will cost a ton of money in labor to fix. Im currently arguing with ford about the problem
  • smiles428smiles428 Posts: 3
    Did your mechanic explain the possible consequences of doing nothing about it? Just curious in case I decide to let it go for a while.
  • jimi1jimi1 Posts: 1
    the remote door lock will not work and when we turn the keys off and take them out nothing works, the windows, door locks, radio.... and the number pad will only unlock not lock the doors?? this all happened last night so we had to disconnect the battery to get the lights out
  • dcicaracasdcicaracas Posts: 1
    i bought the explorer new and since the beginning whenever you use the brakes alot like going down mountains the brakes go out and you have to pump, pump pump them to get any brakes. I changed the master cylinder, bled the lines but it still does it. under normal driving they work fine.

    any answers other than not driving through the mountains?
  • ashevalleyashevalley Posts: 2
    He stated that at some point the transmission may start to leak. He did not feel it was immediate problem that needed to be fixed. However the noise is annoying. Im still after Ford to see if they will do anything! This does not sound like an isolated problem. My mechanic said that on Fords the seal dries out.
  • smiles428smiles428 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info. Please let me know if you get anywhere with Ford.
  • I am not getting a spark between the coil and the wires. Can anyone tell me how to test the coil to see if has gone out?
    Thanks in advance!
  • heathreheathre Posts: 1
    I need some help. I just purchases a used 1995 Ford Explorer, 4 dr. 4.0L 6 cyl. 150,000 miles. I have had this car for two days. The headlights have spontaneously shut off on me while driving the car at night three times now. I can't make out a pattern. It seems like I will be driving for 10 minutes or so with them on and all of a sudden, they shut-off.

    Does anyone have any idea why this is happening? Please help.

    Thanks

    H
  • steve106steve106 Posts: 2
    While driving yesterday my O/D light blinked on and off. I stopped the car, turned it off for 10 seconds and cranked it, light did not blink anymore. This morning on the way to work the transmission failed. No gear position worked, forward or reverse. I got to the side of the road, tried it several times in and out of gear, to no avail. I turned the engine off, raised the hood and did a quick check, got back in cranked it and it would go into gear. It is a 4x4 has 137,000 miles. I tried it several more times and it would sometimes work, sometimes not. Called a wrecker to tow to shop. I have read of shorted and burnt wires causing a similar issue. Any help for this? Thanks
    Steve106
  • steve106steve106 Posts: 2
    Failing door locks. Had the same problem, was fixed at dealer when the seatbolt recall was done. Problem is a broken wire in the wiring harness near the switch. Dealer said mine was cut into. My door locks would not lock and drivers side window did not go up and down. It was the power lead. You should have voltage on one side of the switch with ignition on. If your switch has no power on either side, that is your problem.
  • ohollimanoholliman Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 explorer sports trac xls. I want to put some fog lights on it. Can anyone tell me if it is already pre wired for them, and how do I install them. Thanks
  • rolltiderrolltider Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Ford explorer where the the rear hatch is opening when I drive. It happens 6 to 7 times a week when I am driving and the hatch opens. I have taken it to the dealer and they say unless they can be duplicate in the dealer lot they will not fit it. I have had it in twice and it didn't happen. Does anyone have any ideas or a telephone to Ford's claims department. I have small kids and cannot risk driving with them until this gets fixed. Any help would be appreciated.
  • tavtav Posts: 2
    Don't know if this will fix your problem but I do know that sometimes the latch on the hatch will stick and you think it is shut be the latch never closed completely. This happened to me on several occasions. If this is the case you can see the latch stuck open when you open the hatch. Normally a spring should pull the catch part shut even when the hatch door is open. My fix: Simply spray a little WD-40 on the latch and work the handle up and down making sure the catch always closes. Hasn't happened to me again since I did that. Good luck.
  • niwdogniwdog Posts: 2
    Modulator on side of the Transmission was bad. Was dumping trans. fluid into the exhaust. Local Transmission shop charged $183 to replace modulator & service Trans. EGR sensor (not valve) was bad, replaced myself for $60
    No more check engine light ...priceless !
  • hugscubhugscub Posts: 1
    I have this same problem. Does anyone know what the solution is?
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