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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tazsp2tazsp2 Posts: 4
    The guy was refered to me by a friend who said that he did excellent work. Of course you know Ford wanted $3500.00 dollars. Which I do not have. So if you know of any web sites that I can go and do more research on the problem let me know. In the mean time I am stuck with the piece of $%^#. I still owe a few payments on it and trading it in with the noise that it is making not sure what the out-come of that will be. Thanks for the help and advice it was greatly appreciated.
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    sigh... the rear axle on my 02 is leaking again... :sick:
    had both left and right rear axle seals replaced just 20k miles ago. I thought the seals should last a tad longer than that. Service advisor at the dealer said the axle seal isn't a common problem with the explorers... blah blah blah.. and now my car is out of warranty (has 70k miles on it). Anyway, you think I should let the dealer perform the repair on this or can I trust independent shops over this matter. Dealer gave me an est. of $550. :(
  • A second opinion wouldn't hurt, they might even be able to give you some insight on why the axle seals were so short lived. Myself, I think they should have lasted way longer. I think the repair was flawed, it is possible that they did not put lubricant on the inside of the new seals, or the surface on the half shaft that the seal contacts was not smooth, or was worn.
    Good Luck.
    E.D. ISF
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    Thanks... I'm out of luck with the dealer which fixed it 20k miles ago. They said it's too long ago and they couldn't and wouldn't warrant it. I'm taking it to another Ford dealer this time for a fix. Hopefully it will get the job done right this time. Part is cheap, labor is @#$$%$$@#!#$% :(
  • davidzetadavidzeta Posts: 1
    I have the same car. It came up with a noise that sounded more like a valve tapping. Turns out the rocker arm on the #1 cyl intake valve had shifted forward, due to a spring clip breaking on the front of the rocker shaft. 165K miles. Pretty simple fix.
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    hey electricdesign, I have a question for you and hope you can understand what I'm talking about...

    So I got my car back from the dealer, leak was fixed (replaced both seals again) and when I got home, I looked at the side of the car (drive side) and noticed the rear brake wire or cable was kind of hanging low in a clip (a pin like holder). I didn't remember seeing it that way before and when I compared it to the passenger side, the brake cable's also held by the same pin accept it's hanging high. For the longest time, I couldn't figure out how that happened, and then I noticed that someone had actucally bent that clip. Fortunately, the cable isn't touching the rear wheel (has a gap of about 1/2 inch). My question is, when they worked on the axle seals, you think they have to remove the brake cable and stuff?? I want to make sure before I go back and demand a new clip for that cable if the tech had bent it. Thanks.
  • Yes, I'm sure that stuff was taken loose, as both right and left halfshafts have to be removed to replace the seals. There just may be some slack that is not taken up in the cable. Try setting and releasing your emergency brake a few times to see if that tightens it up. If no change take it back and ask them to look at it.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • tazsp2tazsp2 Posts: 4
    Hey davidzeta, I will investagate it and see if it is that. thank you
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    I feel so bad luck about my truck... after 20k trouble free miles the rear end started to leak again, which it's fixed last Friday. Saturday, didn't see a drop of oil on the garage floor, great. Sunday, didnt' see a drop of oil on the garage floor, excellent! Monday, there it went again with a leak, HELL! sooooo bad luck. Am I the only one having axle seals problems?? :sick:
    I remember last year when they fixed the seals the first time, they had to do it twice after the first repair. Maybe it will be fixed and good for another 20k miles after I bring it back for another repair next week. :confuse: :lemon:
    Now when is Ford going to issue a recall on that so I can claim my $$$$$$$$$ :mad: :surprise:
  • dave111dave111 Posts: 3
    We bought a 2002 from someone at 45k miles it was making some serious noises.Had it taken care of for $600. Come to find out previous owner had ring and pinion work done under warranty at 31k miles.Someone else has said that Ford changed to aluminum rear axles with half shafts starting in 2002. We may get rid of what we have and get a Chevy? Ford screwed up! They should do a recall!
  • theturctheturc Posts: 3
    have had my 2004 in 3 times for rear end problems (two new ring and pinions and one complete new rear end). I have also had transmision problems. The vehicle has been in the shop three times for coming out of gear while you are driving down the road. Ford again told me there is nothing they can do as they cant duplicate the problem. WELL, problem solved. I am buying another Chevy and getting rid of this piece of junk. (2004 explorer, 22k miles) First Ford owned in 20 years. Now I know why I bought Chevys.
  • I feel bad for all you guys, these Ford rear end and transmission problems are really bad. I reiterate my post #5085, I think that about says it all. Note that I have a 97 and 2000 Ford Explorer, both 5.0L V8, and I said in that post that they would be my last Explorers. I won't own the 6 clyinder, way to much trouble with them too. The 2001 is the last good Explorer they made, because it was the last one with the cast iron straight axle rear end. 2002 was the begining of the serious problems with the "new" aluminum rear axle with the half shafts. I wish they would have made the "new" rear axle an option, and kept the cast iron straight rear axle as standard equipment. I don't know why they have so many problems with the seals leaking, and gears whining, but they do, must be some slop in the parts somewhere. The whole aluminum rear end is junk, and I won't own one. That's why I was talking about getting something else next time. It's my only choice now. I had a 99 Chevy Blazer before, but it had problems too, kept not wanting to start, something about the security in the computer. And the torque converter lock up did not work, it would chatter and slip. Looks like next time it's going to be a Honda, or Toyota, or Hunday, or Saturn, or whatever.
    Good Luck guys, sorry about your problems.
    E.D. I.S.F.
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    you said, "I don't know why they have so many problems with the seals leaking, and gears whining, but they do, must be some slop in the parts somewhere. The whole aluminum rear end is junk, and I won't own one."

    I have read somewhere on the net today that the new aluminum housing for the rear axle couldn't tolerate heat too well thus it would somehow change shape (expansion?) which cause the seals to leak. Terrible design in my opinion if that's the case. I'm going in on Thursday again to have them look at it one more time. Hopefully it's the seals again and nothing else. Just paid $500 last Friday for the seals work... if not, I will just have the fluid filled every 5k miles when I go in for an oil change until I find a good replacement SUV. :lemon:

    I have already started shopping today. Still doing my research. Currently looking at the Mercury Mariner (oh yeah... another Ford product...) and used Mercedes ML500.
    By the way, does anyone know if the Mariner uses an aluminum housing for the rear axle? If yes, it's a no go.
  • This forum is for problems and solutions, unfortunately, the continuing problems with these axles and transmissions, does'nt leave much of a solution, other than taking it back to the dealer to get it fixed. If you are out of warranty, you are screwed. This company has been building cars for a hundred years, they know how to do it, but they are slipping badly, maybe due to the economic situation forcing them to use less quality parts and shabby labor practices. I don't think they make all the parts, but get the ring & pinion gears and other parts from other sources, and the other sources complete for selling for the lowest prices to Ford. Maybe an insider could enlighten us. Competition used to be a good thing, it kept the market and products strong, but now it seems to be backfiring for Ford. They can't be blind, they have to be able to see what is going on. Has the competition from the foriegn market beaten down Ford to where they can't complete in this mid sized SUV market? If nobody bought any more Fords, what would happen to Ford, to the market, to the USA? And what if that happens to other American companies like GM or Chrysler? I am sure hoping that they can get on the stick and start making quality products at competitive prices again. This junk of today is just not going to make it in todays market? Who wants a car that needs to be repaired often at great expense? Not anyone I know. You should be able to buy an Explorer and never have to worry about the rear axle. A rear axle should easily last well over 200,000, an only require to check the fluid level once in a great while, they should be basicly trouble free for the life of the vehicle. While a rear axle should be expected to last over 200K, maybe up to 300K or more, a transmission should be expected to last at least 150K, and a heavy duty one with a good reputation should last over well 200K with normal fluid and filter changes every 30k. Not all the Ford Explorers give all these problems, but far too many of them do. The obvious design flaws, like the timing chains and aluminum rear axles, make them doomed to unreliability in the long run.
    Please do not assume that all aluminum parts are bad, some are very good, it all depends on the design. The Ford 4.6L V8 is an aluminum block that seems to be doing fairly well, and Chevrolet has their Straight 6 Aluminum engine that is doing well, and lots of these cars with the Front Wheel Drive Aluminum Engine and Aluminum transaxle are doing well. My daughter drove a 91 Saturn SC, small coup with an aluminum 1.9L and aluminum transaxle, and that thing ran forever, was still running perfect when it got totaled in 2004. The aluminum is not bad, it just needs good design and put together right, so don't write off another vehicle just because it has an aluminum axle or aluminum engine. Do your research and find out what kind of reputation it has and what it's weaknesses are. It is kind of hard to do that with the new models and new designs that come out. It takes time to see how well they do, and what the owners have to say about the cars, and how their service records look. That's why I buy used vehicles, and search for the tried and true designs. Well guys, Good Luck.
    E.D. ISF
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,931
    my '02 explorer has had the popular problems. funny thing looking back on it is, i didn't want to buy an '03 expedition, because it was a new design. i bought in august of '02.
    my brother in law has an '03 same power train as i do, 4.6 v8 with towing package.
    he is more than willing to push it to the limit.
    coming back to ct from florida, he said he decided to follow a mercedes 500. he said he kept it floored to keep up until he had to fill up with gas. i believe him, i have been on a trip like that with him in an '85 tbird (5.0 btw). his explorer has no drivetrain problems.
    the other day my oldest child(daughter, hs senior next september) asked me to save the explorer for her until she gets out of college. when i ask why?, she says she won't need a vehicle until graduates. i went to pick her up from a voluntary sports practice in my '91 mustang gt convertible today, she wasn't interested in driving! kids today. :confuse:
    all i am saying is, don't rule it out.
  • I have a 99, V8, AWD, 4-door that has about 80,000 miles. I just got new tires today to hopefully correct an existing road-noise issue that I thought was coming from the old tires. The noise sounds like your running with large off-road tires. The noise begins at about 25mph. The noise lessens when making a left-turn. It's really quite loud at interstate speeds. My thoughts are at this time that this might be a wheel-bearing or CV-joint problem. I have the feeling it will be expensive. Any thoughts?
  • My thoughts are, what did the place that you bought the tires from have to say about it? That's the first place to check. Then take it to a dealer or good front end shop to have the problem diagnosed.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. In Sunny Florida
  • antifordantiford Posts: 1
    Hello I am the not very pleased owner of a 1998 Explorer sport which has had a numerous of problems. My most recent problem that has me puzzled is a vibration that occurs at about 70 mph, this vibration is minor enough that a passenger might barely feel it, but is annoying to the driver of the vehicle since it can be especially felt in the steering wheel and gear shifter(Manual transmission). I have taken the truck to numerous shops around town and have received a different explanation every time. I have been told to replace the shocks (which i did). I have been told to have the drive shaft serviced (which i had the u joints replaced) . I have been told I had 3 bent rims (purchased new rims). One shop actually said there was nothing they could do about the vibration because its a problem with the design of the truck frame, I think they actually used the word flawed in reference to the design. After that I decided to just try my luck and change the tires switching from light truck tires to passenger car tires, and oddly enough the truck rode fine for about a month then the annoying vibration came back. So i'm wondering. What might be the source of my problem? If anyone might be able to help or has any info on this possible flaw in the frame it would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
    The unhappy Fixed Or Repaired Daily owner
  • It sounds like the tires, since the vibration went away when you put new tires on. One of them might have went out of balance by throwing a weight off. It is possible for a perfectly balanced tire to instantly become unbalanced by a weight coming loose and flying off. Take it back to where you got the tires and have them check and rebalance the tires, let us know how it goes.
    Good Luck.
    E.D. ISF
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    My guess based on your symptoms, is that you have a worn suspension part somewhere. I had a similar problem with my Suburban, which front tires would go out of balance. Make a long story short, it had a bad lower ball joint. Truck would be aligned, tires all balanced and rotated. Within a period of time, the tires would go out of balance again. What was really happening, is that the worn ball joint would throw the front end out of alignment, the out of alignment would cause a scrubbing (wear) on the tires, that abnormal wear would throw the tires out of balance, the vibration would come back.

    So I'd look beyond the tire balance, and see if you find worn suspension components. Could be ball joints, steering arm joints, bushings, etc. Anything that effects the three geometric angles of the front tire (caster, camber, toe-in).
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Posts: 56
    I have a '98 Explorer, V6 SOHC, with 107k miles. Last week I noticed a really bad leak, that I just wrote off as the A/C letting out some water. Later however, I noticed there was no cold air coming out of the vents.

    I took it to any old place to get a verdict on what was wrong, just hoping it was freon that needed to be replaced. The shop told me it was the compressor leaking; which I suppose makes sense considering what I said a moment ago.

    Can you do a patch job on a leaking compressor? The $575 estimate I got seems unreal. Are they difficult to install yourself? I never got into maintaining this truck myself since I need it for work and figured it would be best to let a pro do it. But screwing up an A/C installation won't affect the way it runs right?
  • I'm not an expert on auto air conditioners,so...How much did they charge you for the estimate. If not much,what do you have to lose by going somewhere else for a comparision? When you look into the engine compartment does it look like you could do the job yourself? I doubt you can do a patch job- the seals are probably leaking which means a loss of lubricating oil that flows thru the system along with the freon-if it's the compressor leaking. Could the leak be from one of the hoses that are part of the system?
  • The $575 quote you were given is actually not too bad. You might be able to find a cheaper price, but not much cheaper. There is a lot more to Air Conditioning repair than most people think, and it can be VERY expensive. The older Fords of the early 90's often required a complete replacement of all parts under the hood when the compressor failed, because the old compressors failed on the inside, circulating sludge and metal particles into the entire system, called "Black Death" by many. It required a "Firewall Forward Replacement", which meant replacing the following components: compressor($225), condenser($120), hoses($160), orifice tube($5.00), accumulator($50), then flushing out the Evaporator (Flush Solvent $20), then Evacuate the system with a vaccuum pump, then charge the system with new refrigerant($25). With labor, this costs $1,000 to $1200, prices may be higher now.

    In your case, I am assuming the compressor has no internal failure, and has not contaminated the system. You can not replace the compressor alone, the compressor warranty and good practice require that the orifice tube and the accumulator be replaced also. If you have not worked on air condition before, I must warn that there are dangers present involving moving parts and high pressures. If you are mechanically inclined, and seriously want to try to do the job yourself, I would first urge you to study and learn about how air conditioning works and how to repair it safely.
    I would recommend that you check into the following web sites and learn all that you can about mobile air conditioning first:
    http://www.ackits.com/
    http://www.acsource.com/

    For Parts:
    http://www.lowesville.com/Air_Conditioning_Parts.htm

    After you have studied and learned about mobile air conditioning from the above sites, and if you still want to do your own air conditioning repair work, you will need to acquire the tools and equipment that you will need. You will need basic mechanics hand tools for the general work of removing and replacing the parts. The specialized AC tools you may choose to buy or rent. First a good set of R134a AC gauges with hoses($100-$150). Second a good vacuum pump($200-$300). Third you may need spring lock tools($20) if your vehicle has spring lock connectors. Forth, a vent temperature thermometer($10).
    When you are ready to start the project, have all the new parts and tools ready. Buy the compressor with NO oil in it, shipped DRY, so that you can add your own oil of the proper type. Have the proper AC oil, 9 ounces of "Double End Capped" PAG 100 oil. Have the old refrigerant recovered by a AC shop, they would probably do this for free, since they get to keep the refrigerant. It is against the law to intentionally discharge refrigerant into the air. Remove the Belt, Remove the compressor, Remove the orifice tube, and Remove the Accumulator. Since the system is now open, you have the opportunity to do an optional step, to flush the system(highly recommended), you could flush out the condenser, the evaporator and the hoses at this point if you would like. This would help to ensure a clean system and remove the old oil, which would help to ensure a long life for the new compressor. The cleanliness of the system is the most important factor for compressor life. Use new o-rings on all the connections. If you flushed out the system, you will now need to put in a full charge of oil, 9 ounces of "Double End Capped" PAG 100 oil. Put 4 ounces in the compressor, 2 ounces in the evaporator, 1 ounce in the condenser, and 2 ounces in the accummulator. Next install the compressor, orifice tube and the accumulator. Rotate the center hub of the compressor at least 10 times to clear oil from the valves. Then connect the gauges and vaccuum pump and pull a deep vaccuum(29" or more) on the system for an hour. Close the valves on the gauges and turn off the vaccuum pump, vacuum on the system should hold, watch it for at least 15 minutes to be sure the vaccuum doesn't creep up. If you loose vaccuum, look for a leak, check your connections, turn the compressor shaft to be sure the compressor shaft seal seals. Put the Vent Temperature Thermometer into the dash outlet vent of the vehicle. After evacuating and the vaccuum holds, ENGINE OFF, close both valves on gauges, connect refrigerant can to the gauges charging hose, purge the yellow charging hose of air, slowly open low side valve on gauges to slowly charge refrigerant into the vaccuum, holding can upside down, using the can tap valve to control the flow of refrigerant. After it takes all the refrigerant that it can, close valve on the can tap, set AC to max cool, high blower. Put the second can on the charging hose, START the ENGINE, then slowly open the can tap valve, using the can tap valve to control the flow of refrigerant in the vehicle. It may take up to 3 cans of refrigerant. Carefully watch the gauges as you slowly charge the system, pressures will rise. The exact pressures you need will vary according to the ambient temperatures at the time. Generally, you will want the low side pressure to read between 21 to 30lbs(25 is optimial in hot weather) and the high side pressure to read between 225 and 245lbs(230-235 is optimal in hot weather). Check the vent temps and feel the temps of the AC lines as you are charging. The temp at the accumulator should start to get cold as the charge approaches full, as the cold covers the accumulator and then the cold starts to move on the suction line towards compressor, it is almost full. Charge the last part in VERY SLOWLY, as it is VERY important NOT to OVERCHARGE the system. At this point the pressures should be reading good and you should just start to feel the COLD arrive at the suction port of the compressor. Adjust the charge slightly so that the pressures look good and the suction port is cold, DO NOT charge any more than that. If you charge too much, the system will become warmer and the pressures will be higher. Generally, the best cooling is obtained when there is just enough cold refrigerant to reach the suction port of the compressor and the pressure look good. If you are charging with the vehicle in the shade, the vent temp should be 50 degrees or colder once the system is stable and the vehicle cools down. You may now remove the gauges and equipment, as you should be done. Take a test drive with the vent thermometer in the dash vent, so that you can monitor the cooling. You should get between 45 to 50 degrees coming out of the vent, driving down the road.
    If you can do all that, it will cost you about $325-$350 in parts, Plus the tools that you need, Plus your Labor. If it's worth it to you, and you feel capable, go ahead, but remember, Safety First. If you need any help, just ask.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Posts: 56
    Ok, this is definitely more than I bargained for. And it was hotter than ever today. I made an impulse decision and scooped up a used compressor from a Junkyard (when will I learn . . .), open on 4th of July of all things, for 100 bucks. I live in NYC so it's all foreigners down there. I also found someone else, a Boneyard tech, to install it for $220. And now . . . I have cold air!

    But I am starting to suspect that it wasn't my compressor or seals at all, but "the dryer" (who knew my truck has a "dryer?") The guy who installed it at the junkyard said that was probably leaking and not the compressor. Turns out he might be partly right; according to this article, the blanket around the dryer on late model Explorers causes the thing to rust and particles seep into the A/C system . . .

    http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/corroded_accumulator.htm

    My dryer, sure enough is a rusty nail, and I did WD 40 and scrub off the little blanket there's left; I guess the rest deteriorated. But does that theory make sense in my case? Would gas seep out from clogging from the dryer?

    The Junkyard tech actually had this sophisto machine -- he says it cost him 5 grand -- that cleaned my system and all.

    That brings me to my next question is: do you think I should buy a new dryer and try to install that myself? Is at as EZ as unscrewing the 3 hoses attached to it? Or should I just ride this heat wave out with what cold air I have?

    Happy 4th!
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    "other than taking it back to the dealer to get it fixed. If you are out of warranty, you are screwed."

    Very good post. I know some dealers are better than others. When I took my '02 in for the rear end problem, I was told, it wasn't that bad. And they were right. Others had it worse, but mine was still whinning between 55mph and 65 mph. They (Dealer) tries to find reasons NOT TO FIX IT under warranty. And as far as known problems with these models that include as you stated the rear-end and transmissions,I would like to include; the power window motors (rear), the piece of body work under the rear hatch (glass) that cracks, the very poor leather in the XLT models, if any of this stuff is broken EVEN AFTER WARRANTY AND THEY ARE KNOWN PROBLEMS, FORD SHOULD PAY TO FIX THEM!! PLAIN AND SIMPLE!! QUALITY IS JOB ONE!! Where? On the moon?
  • My long post was intended to be a guide to you, as you were asking if you could fix it yourself, and you had it diagnosed as a leaking compressor. I am not there, so I can only go by what you say. You are now using the term "dryer", but you have what is call an accumulator, it is almost the same thing. The older cars had dryers in them, when they used the expansion valve type system. Nowadays, they use the orifice system with an accumulator, the accumulator has a dryer inside of it. The biggest difference between the accumulator and the dryer is the location in the refrigeration circuit. The dryer is located in the liquid line between the condenser and the expansion valve, it is a small tank with a sight glass and a dryer inside of it, which is a small bag of a chemical called a dissecant, which absorbs moisture like a sponge, therfore "drying" the moisture out of the refrigerant. The accumulator is almost the same thing, but has no sight glass and is located in the suction line on the outlet of the evaporator, between the evaporator and the compressor. It catches the cold vapor and some boiling refrigerant as it comes out of the evaporator. It also has the bag of a chemical called a dissecant, which absorbs moisture like a sponge, therfore "drying" the moisture out of the refrigerant. Sometimes the terms are used interchangably, because they do almost the same thing, an they both "Dry" the refrigerant.
    Regarding the leak, a leak is a leak, is a leak, no matter where it is. A good tech uses a leak detector ot dye to find the point of leakage. very small one can be hard to find. But no matter where it is, it has to be fixed, not matter if it's a rusy accumulator, or leaky compressor, condenser, evaporator or whatever. A leaky evaporator is usually the hardest and most expensive to fix.
    I guess for the money you spent, $320, you didn't do too bad, considering your position and the heat. So I guess it's cold enough now? And I assume that since you are asking about putting the accumulator on, he must not have put one on. Since it is a done deal for right now, probably best to leave it be, since it's a used compressor anyway. The time to put in the Accumulator and orifice tube is when the system is apart. Now that it is back together and running, you don't want to have to suck the regrigerant back out, take it apart and replace the parts and recharge. It would have been nice to do it when he did the compressor, but let it go for now, what kind of warranty did he give you? Get all you can out of this job and maybe it can get you through the summer. Next time to know a little more of what is involved and maybe can get it all done at one time.
    Regarding the machine he was using, that is a nice machine that the shops use, makes working on the ac better and easier. It sucks out the refrigerant, flushes the system, evacuates the system, and charges the refrigerant back in, very nice. I didn't mention it because we were talking about you doing the work yourself, and you certainly are not going to go but one of those machines, and you can't rent one either.
    Anyway good luck with the AC, I hope it stays nice and cool all summer for you.
    E.D. ISF
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    <aside>
    BTW - the word is spelled desiccant. (Please don't think I'm being nitpicky - I show it only in case someone is interested in looking it up!)
    </aside>

    Anyway, thanks for an informative post!

    tidester, host
  • dodgekbaddodgekbad Posts: 56
    Thanks for the informative and very fast post(s) Electric Design. You won't believe this, but I actually went back to the original mechanic to quiz him on his diagnosis (but not too much -- it was free) and it was the Condenser that he said was leaking; not the compressor. I guess I heard it wrong, and selective memory must have come into play because I had a problem last year with my home A/C unit and it was the compressor, and I didn't even know what a damn condenser was until now.

    Maybe I can Ebay my old compressor. Although it's getting harder to sell anything on fleebay these days and it seems like good, cheap insurance. I watched the tech put it in and if need be I think I can put the compressor on myself. Anyway, I have cold air for now. I might as well ride this thing out.
  • alrighty. we own a 1993 ford explorer XLT 4by4. WELL, the four wheel drive does not work. we tried 3 new push button modules with no avail. then we did some investigating. there IS power to the push botton module. there is NO power to the motor on the back of the transmission. the four wheel drive relay located in the rear normally hums when the four wheel drive is activated. now complete silence so we can tell its not operating. the ford dealership says that the push button always goes out. but a couple friends of ours always have problems with the motor on the back of the tranny.

    PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE give us some information on any ideas on what may be wrong or, if this has happened to you before, how it was fixed and what the problem was.

    thanks
    ~james
  • oh and i forgot to mention in the above post ^^ that we have 186,000 miles on it with only one major problem.
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