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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tmiracletmiracle Posts: 1
    Hi.. I was wondering if fixed you door? I have a 98 explorer & the driver side door handle won't open, manual lock won't work and the handle on the inside won't work. Do you know what needs replaced? or how to do it? thanks
  • You have the right handle, you need a miracle! Seriously, that can't be diagnosed over the internet, it obviously has something or some linkage broken or come loose inside the door. You need to take it to a repair shop or body shop to have it looked at.
  • Who can describe physically where the read speed sensor is located? Somewhere near the differential?
  • I'll echo my other post, where is the rear speed sensor located at?
  • And some note on the tires. The new set is set number-3. The first where the original Firestones, which were recalled and replaced by Goodyear Wranglers at about 30,000 miles as I recall. Finally, near 80,000 miles, I thought it was time for some new ones. After some research and analysis, I went with the original size in Goodyear Regatta 2's.

    So far, I have been pretty happy with these tires. They are much quieter than the Wranglers and seem to have a lot better grip. I can make some moves on the new tires that the old tires would have complained about (not just due to wear). The Regattas are not off-road or even comparable to the Wranglers, they are more like passenger tires and should suit my applications just fine.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    On the 97-2001 Explorers the ABS rear sensor is attached to the TOP of the differential housing. There are one or two bolts that hold it to the housing. Of course you also have a electrical connection attached to the sensor. I don't know where the sensor is located on model years before 97 or 2002 to the present. Could be the sensor is in the same location. Good luck. It is a real easy fix if you have to change it.
  • Rear Anti-Lock Sensor
    Removal and Installation:

    Raise and support vehicle.
    NOTE: Clean off dirt and foreign material that may have collected around the rear anti-lock brake sensor before removal.

    The rear anti-lock brake sensor is located on top of the rear differential.
    Disconnect the rear anti-lock brake sensor electrical connector.
    Remove the bolt.
    Remove the rear anti-lock brake sensor.

    NOTE: Thoroughly clean the mounting surface.

    NOTE: Inspect the anti-lock brake sensor O-ring for damage; lightly lubricate the O-ring with axle lubricant.

    To install, reverse the removal procedure.
  • Those Goodyear Raggatta 2's sound good. I will look into them on tirerack.com. How are they pricewise, compared to the Wranglers, and how do they stack up against some of the other midrange tires like Yokohama Geolanders, or Dayton Timberlines in performance and price? Some others who have experience in other tires please chime in.
  • I have a 1995 Explorer that has a starting problem. For some reason I am getting no spark.... SOMETIME. I have checked the coil and it seams to be fine. I unhooked one of the battery cables for about fifteen minutes and then reconnected it and the truck started right up. I tried to start the truck the next morning and...no spark. I moved wires around and jacked with it in general for about an hour and it started right up. I killed it and tried to restart it and you guessed it...no spark! What am I dealing with? Could it be the computer?
    Thanks,
    Chuck
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    I wonder how a class action suit begins... well, count me in if there is one.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    In June of 2005 I replaced the Wranglers, that Ford put on my 99 Explorer XLT when they swaped out my Firestones, with Michelin Cross Terrain 235 75R 15's. Although the Wranglers were on the truck for 59K, I did not realize how awful their ride and handling were until I started driving on the Cross Terrain's. I purchased the Michelins at Costco. Got a very fair price that included everything plus a 6 year road hazard warranty. They even filled the tires with nitrogen gas instead of compressed air. When they mounted the tires they used a torque wrench to set the lug nuts. That really impressed me. Been back to Costco once to have the tires rotated, re-balanced and pressure adjusted. All this part of the purchase warranty. I know that tires and service are a very subjective things to talk about. But I am very impressed with the Michelins and the service at Costco.
  • kakokako Posts: 1
    My 2002 Explorer started to blow hot air through some vents and cold air through others. My mechanic says this is a protection mechanism when the AC system is low on gas. Never heard this before, is this correct?
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    02 limited...when in auto the lights always come on. where is the sensor located? is there anything i can do to try to fix it myself? any idea on cost to fix? at this point unless i can fix it myself, i'll justuse them like regular lights, or maybe just leave them on all the time. any help is appreciated
  • Hello I have a 2006 Eddie Bauer 4X4 Explorer. Tonight after eating dinner with the family it seemed like the steering wheel was looser than usual. At low speeds I could feel a vibration in the wheel at certain points. I do not know if there is something wrong with the wheel or should the wheel be loose like this. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem or if anyone knows what to do about it? Any help would be great.
    -MM
  • A 2006 is too new to work on it yourself. Should not that be covered under warranty? Did you take it to the dealer, and if so, what did he have to say?
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    The A/C on my wife's '96 Explorer was not cooling as well as it used to. I also noticed that the compressor clutch seems to be engaging and disengaging much more frequently than I would expect...every 5 to 10 seconds or so. My mechanic added some refrigerant, said there were no major leaks, and did not comment on the compressor engaging/ disengaging. The A/C is working well now, but I noticed there is no change with the compressor clutch is still engaging/ disengaging as frequently as it did before. Is that normal on this truck? If no, what is likely wrong? Is it something I should have repaired, or not worry about it? The truck has 112K miles on it, but for the past few years has been driven only 2000-3000 miles per year. My wife uses the truck mostly as an inclement weather alternative to her sports car.
  • I have not taken it in yet, I am going to drive it later and see if it happens again, but if it keeps up I will bring it in on Tuesday. I heard that it may be that the wheels are not properly alligned,causing a vibration in the wheel. Otherwise I love my new Explorer.
  • Dear Shark,
    Any particular Air Conditioning system in any particular state will operate slightly differently under different conditions of Ambient Heat, and Heat Load. You did not give any specifics regarding the conditions that you were operating the system at before and after the repair. To create an equal analysis, the test conditions must be the same before and after the work is done, so that we are not comparing apples to oranges. You state that before, it was not cooling as well as it used to. You state that now it is cooling well, but the clutch cycles often. The comparison has to be made under the same conditions, approximately same hot weather, in the hot sun, and very important that you set the AC system to MAX COOL with the FAN on HIGH BLOWER each time you test. If you had the AC at a lower fan speed, it will place a lower heat load on the system, and the compressor will cycle more often, which is normal. Understand that the system does not operate under the same heat load all the time. Once the inside of the car cools down and the compressor can easily cool the car, the pressures in the system drop and the compressor will drop out sooner, and cycle more often. Lower temperatures = Lower Pressures = Compressor cycles out when pressure drops. The compressor cycles out when the pressure drops because it is operated by a low side pressure switch. When the evaporator pressure gets down to 21 to 20 lbs, the pressure switch shuts the compressor off, until the evaporator pressure rises back up to about 40 lbs, then it cuts the copressor back on. So TWO things cause the compressor to cycle off, Normal operation when the cooling is good enough for the pressure to drop to 21 lbs, or if the refrigerant charge is low and the pressure drops to 21 lbs. If cooling is not quite perfect and the compressor cycles on and off a lot, it might be that there could be a small restriction in the refrigeration circuit, usually at the orifice tube screen, which could cause evaporator pressure to drop and cut off the compressor. The mechanic can see this on his guages, by seeing that the low side pressure drops rapidly and quickly. If he charged it up, and watched the gauges, he probably desided it was working ok. I think in your case the AC is operating normally or near normally. Be sure to leave the FAN on HIGH Blower and the AC on MAX COOL (Recirculate), and see if the compressor still seems to cycle too often. If it is cooling well under all conditions, especially very hot weather, then the system is ok, even if it does cycle fairly often, it just means the compressor is doing it's job easily, and can rest more often. Let us know how does.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • jackifljackifl Posts: 2
    Afternoon all (steve and tidester included!):
    I have a 99 Ford Explorer Sport, 2wd, auto transmission. Put new tires on about a year ago and started having trouble (shimmy/shake from 62-68 mph, apprx) in April/May so I brought it in for wheel balancing. And again. And again. Still got the wicked shake, rattle and roll.

    So, long story short, I brought it in to Goodyear (Goodyear tires) instead of the place that had been doing the balancing. Husband thought maybe a belt went in one or more tires. So yes, the back tires have to be replaced (they pro-rated the price, however). Also, Goodyear said that the front ball joints needed replacing (yah, after 145,000 miles, we agreed).

    My problem came when I picked it up. I had a wicked bad shimmy, shake, shudder when I started to drive it away (in the front end). I immediately stopped the car in the middle of their parking lot and went back in. One service guy was at the desk and he said it was a common problem with Ford Explorers whenever they had to be lifted by control arm (to replace ball joints) and it had something to do with the bushing having to "reseat" and it would go away in 10-15 miles of driving. He apologized for not saying something to me.
    Neither my husband or I had ever heard of it. Checked online, nothing popped up. I then called Ford and they suggested that I call my local dealership. I spoke with service rep there and she said she had never, ever heard of it either.
    Goodyear claims it will all smooth out in 10-15 miles. I've now gone approx. 20 and yah, it is a tad smoother but I am still pretty suspicious. Every time I turn the wheels, the tires shudder. Has anyone else had this issue? Is Goodyear dreaming? Is my Ford dealer?
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    Many thanks for the detailed explaination. As you suggested, when I select Max Cool with the blower on the highest speed, the compressor is engaged 100% of the time. So it does appear that the system is functioning normally. When I place a lower heat load on the system, the compressor does cycle on and off every 10 seconds or so. I was thinking that it should be cycling on and off much less frequently (every minute or two), but it certainly sounds like you know what you are talking about. Thanks again for your help.
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    I had the ball joints replaced on my wife's 96 Explorer not long ago, and did not experience the condition you are experiencing.
  • billy16billy16 Posts: 1
    yes you should.I have a 92 sport. and it's still going :)
  • Shark, You're welcome.
  • That whole Goodyear story is BS. I have never heard of such a rediculous story. I've been around way too long already. I've rebuilt Front Ends and especially Ford Explorer Front Ends and replaced many Ball Joints, and never had any problem. When the front end is correct, the vehicle should drive as smooth as silk. If it doesn't, Take It Back! I would have never drove that thing off their lot, especially if it was so bad that you could feel it in their lot before even getting out onto the road. The Front End is designed to be ROCK SOLID, to hold all the parts and wheels at exactly the perfect angles under all driving conditons, under all kinds of road forces. There is NOTHING to "SETTLE IN" or "BREAK IN' or to "WEAR IN". The Alignment is supposed to be perfectly set and constantly remain that way until something wears out or bends or breaks. I say take it back and get them to do it right, or demand your money back and take it somewhere else. Do not not put up with such nonsense.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • Hello all I recently purchased a 2006 Eddie Bauer Ford Explorer and at 400 miles I have noticed a clunking noise in the steering column, particularly when I turn the wheel. I have brought it into the service department at Ford and they told me they have had messages about a steering column shaft problem. They will have to order a new part to fix this problem and the manager said they might have a recall on it soon. I wanted to see if anyone else had this problem since the manager said he has gotten numerous complaints?
    Thanks MM
  • Hello, My Explorer started making some 'rattling' noise when it is idling. It comes from right underneath the center of the truck. I am wondering if it is a transmission problem. Any ideas what it could be...
    Thanks
  • gasburner1gasburner1 Posts: 10
    I have a 99 Explorer XLT w/ the 5.0 L V8, 4 speed auto trans, 69K miles. Recently I have noticed the shift from 1st to 2nd, is a bit hard and jerky. There doesn't seem to be a delay in the shift just more harsh than previous. I've changed the trans fluid at the scheduled intervals. Anybody have this same issue? Is it typical for these transmissions, or do I have a developing problem?

    Overall this has been a great vehicle!
  • baggs32baggs32 Posts: 3,221
    Not here ('06 Explorer XLT V6) or my father-in-law ('06 Explorer EB V8). No problems for either of us.
  • It could be several things causing the rattle at idle, the most common cause is a loose heat shield on the exhaust system. If you find that to be the problem, it can be tack welded back in place or tie wired back in place (welding preferred). Let it cool completely before you try to touch it.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • You have low milage on that vehicle, and you have one of the most reliable transmissions Ford makes, the 4R70W, they hardly ever give any problem. My 1997 XLT V8 with 147K miles shifts perfect, never a tranny or engine problem, same for my 2000 XLT V8 with 124K miles. I service my tranmission every 30K and I do a transmission fluid flush and new filter every time, not just a drain and refill. I do mine myself to be sure it's done right, but you can take yours to any reputable shop to have it done. I would suggest you do the tranny flush and new fluid every 30,000 miles, and do and EXTRA ONE right now, since you are having this little glitch. If after the flush the problem continues, only then would I recommend adding a transmission additive. I'll tell you what it is, if you need it, after the flush.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
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