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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mwall25mwall25 Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I have a 98' Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC w/ 51K 4WD. I had my front ball joints replaced three months ago but I think it is unrelated to my current problem. When I start the car and for the first couple minutes after I am driving an odd rattling noise comes from underneath the back of the car. I first noticed it when pulling into a sharp turn in a garage. It happens when the car is idle and stops soon after I drive it. It sounds like a New Year's ever noise maker, the ones you hold and spin the top, kind of a racheting sound. I know little to nothing about cars but the noise appears to be coming from a rounded box right before the drive train connects to the rear axle. Any thoughts??

    Thanx
  • I have about 150K miles on my Explorer and it is constantly giving a Cylinder 4 misfire code when the mechanic checks the check engine light. He has recently done a major tuneup and replaced all plugs, cables etc. What happens, is that during acceleration it will hesitate and seem like it has no power, as well as backfire/popping sound from engine. He noticed a white/gray powder near the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. He says it is cracked/leaking. Could this be the cause? I have asked him to guarantee that if he fixes this and it still gives a Cylinder 4 error code that he will not charge me to fix it for that reason. He is thinking about it further.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    You can't reasonably ask a mechanic to "guarantee" that a repair will correct a computer code error on a vehicle with 150,000 miles. You could have multiple problems. If the exhaust manifold is cracked, it could very well cause a misfire code. Regardless, it needs to be replaced.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    This is when you need to think about replacing the vehicle.......
    I would ask myself (realistically) how much more life is in this vehicle. :confuse:
  • robert60robert60 Posts: 2
    Could someone inform me of location of entrance of star adjustment
    to back off rear emergency brake to remove rotor?
  • timdoggtimdogg Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,

    I have a 1995 Explorer XLT with just over 200,000 miles on it (whew!) I should have sold it earlier when it didn't have the problems it has now, but what can you do? The interior is great, exterior not so great but okay. The main problem with it is that the transfer case makes horrible noises—cricket like squeaking, crunchy grinding sounds at low speeds, and massive, deep vibration at high speeds. I don't know if I should try to sell it as-is for almost nothing, or get a new transfer case. I don't want to pay what it would cost to have my mechanic do the work, so I'm interested in finding out how to do it myself over the next few weeks. Please give me some feedback about this, thanks. :sick:
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Yes, your should have gotten rid of it earlier. It looks like it's about done as far as it's "life expectancy" is concerned. Junk it, donate it, or sell it for parts. There is no question cars/trucks are expensive, I think there are people that keep their cars for too-long and then get in a situation where they are dumping good money in to a bad situation. Those are my thoughts! :sick:
  • I believe there is no star adjustment. Only the cables are connected to the e brake shoes. Be sure you have slack in the e cables or take the cables loose.
    E.D.
  • It could be dangerous to drive, probably a part has come loose or broken. Have it checked right away. Any shop that does front end alignments should be able to help you.
    E.D.
  • you1you1 Posts: 2
    No I did not receive any feedback. It does not appear to be a ball joint. Everything seems to be tight now in the front end after I replaced the tie rods.
  • badshiftbadshift Posts: 4
    i have a 1992 ford explorer 4 wheel drive stick.my problem is i was shifting from n. to first and nothing happend.i have good pedal and replaced the clutch 1 year ago.now i can start it up let the clutch out,and go thru all the gears nothing happens,not even a noise please help!
  • Hi, I have just joined this forum and have a problem with my 98 Explorer, with 83,000 on the clock, when I want to stop the ABS cuts in and pulses my foot off the brake, this is happening nearly everytime I want to stop now. I have taken it to the Ford Dealer for a service and they could not find out what the problem is, originally it only did it when the wheels were turned slightly to the left, the left sensor was checked out and found to be ok, without going all through the car and they quoted me up to £2000 to do this, they can't tell what the problem is, has anyone else had this and if so what was the cause. The Ford Dealer suggested I contacted a Ford Garage in America to find out as they only have 6 Explorers on their books and none have had this problem!

    Jane
  • tenachtenach Posts: 4
    The overdrive is your final gear. it increases the gas mileage buy lowering your RPM's at a high speed. The "more force" feeling is the same as if you were to downshift on a manual transmission car. the OD should always be on unless you are towing in stop and go traffic. Also, buy changing the size of your tires, you have thrown the computer and transmission settings off. Technically you are going faster than the speedo says. You should invest in a chip or user friendly computer to hook up to your truck to change the settings. About $400.
  • The mechanic called me today and told me after removing the Exhaust Manifold he realized that the piston rings are bad and oil is leaking into the pistons. I am not a car buff by any means, but he said that the motor would need to be rebuilt which he didn't recommend considering the age and miles on the vehicle. Guess it is time to buy a new one. Any recommendations: Toyota Sequoia or Ford Expedition?
  • cruzenmancruzenman Posts: 1
    I had my 96 Explorer XLT with 40300 miles in for inspection today. I failed, being told that I needed an "upper ball joint" on the passenger side. I was told that on my vehicle they had to replace the entire "control arm," that the ball joint itself could not be replaced. I know nothing about either of these. All I do know is that at $437.00 including labor, its quite expensive. Can someone please explain exactly what this part does, whether this is normal at 40000 miles and whether I am getting a fair price. Thanks in advance for your help.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    The upper control arms allows the front wheel to move during turns, going over bumps, etc. Upper ball joint is an integral part of the upper control arm and the entire arm must be replaced. The replacement is relatively simple, involves three bolts and a wheel alignment. If the rubber boot that surrounds th ball joint tore and the grease leaked out and water "leaked" in, it is quite possible for the ball joint to fail at 41K. The price you had quoted sounds a bit high. I believe that part costs about $80.00. So, that leaves hours for labor and the alignment.
    I'd get a second opinion.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    The upper control arms allows the front wheel to move during turns, going over bumps, etc. Upper ball joint is an integral part of the upper control arm and the entire arm must be replaced. The replacement is relatively simple, involves three bolts and a wheel alignment. If the rubber boot that surrounds the ball joint tore and the grease leaked out and water "leaked" in, it is quite possible for the ball joint to fail at 41K. The price you had quoted sounds a bit high. I believe that part costs about $80.00. So that leaves hours for labor and the alignment.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Any recommendations: Toyota Sequoia or Ford Expedition?

    Don't know if your looking to buy new or not....but here in Los Angeles, Eddie Bauers (Expeditions) can be had for 29,000.00 (List 41,000.00) If your looking to buy used-there are a TON of '02's out there due to the fact that the redesign was in '03 that gave the Expedition the same things as the Explorer (i.e. lower the floor and independent rear suspension). The '02's were a good vehicle. I would stay away from the '03's and look at the 04's if the budget calls for it.
    Let us know! :shades:
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Both are great trucks, IMO. The Expedition is larger, more powerful, and has a lot of features the Sequoia doesn't have, such as the fold flat 3rd row seats, independent rear suspension, 5.4L 3V 300hp engine. Personally, I like the looks of the Ford much much better, but that's all in what you like - I've never gotten excited over Toyota truck design.

    The Sequoia has that Toyota thing going for it, although the early ones had their share of issues with air conditioning, brakes, and 4wd issues, I think they have them pretty well perfected now, you may have fewer problems with it than the Ford, but you should be happy with either. It comes down to the one that fits your needs, and likes the best.

    I would stay away from the Nissan Armada though. Everyone I know who has one, has had horrible issues repeatedly with them.

    Then, of course, there's GM. Ancient technology that works pretty well because, well, there's not much new there to go wrong with 'em. If you don't mind very plain interiors and don't ever look under the hood, you'll probably never notice you're driving a 20 year old design.
  • You originally said: "I have about 150K miles on my Explorer and it is constantly giving a Cylinder 4 misfire code when the mechanic checks the check engine light. He has recently done a major tuneup and replaced all plugs, cables etc. What happens, is that during acceleration it will hesitate and seem like it has no power, as well as backfire/popping sound from engine. He noticed a white/gray powder near the exhaust manifold on the drivers side."

    It is strange how a misfire turns into an engine needing a rebuild, especially after your mechanic did a major tune up on it. The compression should have been checked then, when the plugs where changed, especially with that many miles on the engine. If oil was leaking past your pistons, there would be signs of this, such as smoking out the exhaust pipe, excessive oil consumption, and low compression. It sounds to me like you have an incompentent mechanic or else he is taking you for all that he can. You better get a second and third opinon on this. You never mentioned any smoking or excessive oil consumption in your original post. Have you noticed any?
    E.D.
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