Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    You may want to try Got a Quick, Technical Question?. Good luck!

    tidester, host
  • tickedoff2tickedoff2 Posts: 11
    nvbanker, I have been in contact with FoMoCo since your last post, I am satisfied it is they and not the dealer who will not authorize any further attempts to correct the violent random operation of the transmission. The dealer's position is that he is quite willing to keep working on it but Ford needs to tell him what to do to fix it, and of course reimburse the dealer for his efforts. The dealer has suggested I try another dealer, I will do this but am confident they will not do warranty work on this problem-FoMoCo has it noted in their Customer Relations Computer that their engineer has declared the transmission normal, therefore no warranty work by any dealer. Judging from your screen name: I suspect you know that he who controls the money controls just about everything in these situations. I am requesting that the Dispute Resolution Board takes a look at this, as well as the NHTSA/ODI. Thank you for the responses, I will post any noteworthy information that may come my way. The only way those of us who are getting the runaround from Ford Motor Company to get any satisfaction is spread the word and take the time and money necessary to give this issue a lot of notoriety and cause pressure from various agencies


  • ptruckleptruckle Posts: 4
    what a great guy thanks very much for your time to reply,i will answer you as best as i can.
    there is no clunk when i use the gear shift in any of the gears there is no noise from the gears at all they are as smooth as silk.
    when in cruise control and the engine needs more power and the auto cruise control works as it should its then the clunking and rough ride comes into its own you have to hold on to the wheel because the steering goes all over the place and is very very light,i then have to touch the break pedal to cut out the cruise control and slow the car down the noise stops and the car is normal again,untill i accellerate away again but very gently the noise reappears but no where as bad obviousley less torque is being applied,once it got so bad i stopped the car on the moterway and i kicked the left hand wheel,in temper got back in the car and believe it or not the car drove perfect for the next 100 miles or so using heavey accelleration and the cruise control it drives like a dream and very fast when everything works .so that brings me back to my first thoughts that as it is intermittent i believe strongly that it is an electrical problem.
    there has been no warning lights on and the overdrive light has never flashed ,the overdrive works as it should as quite often i use it as breaking on inclines.
    i am driving in four wheel drive auto at all times ,but saying that i have had no problems in engaging high or low and all work as they should
    i do not have a two wheel drive position
    the suspension i am not to sure i have an isolation switch which must be turned of when jacking up the car or in suspended tow.
    i strongly like your idea about the sensor clutch pack problem,also i have tried to locate the speed sensors because it actually feels like the drive shaft is trying to engage but cannot.
    as to speeds when you move of steady there is very minor noise and clunking but as you speed up the clunking gets louder if you accellerate hard it is very bad,but i must point out when everything is ok you can accellerate as fast as you like and as hard as you like and she flies and i mean flies so responsive and quick its
    a dream to drive,
    lastly i was in france a week ago i got of the ferry and the noise and clunking was still there i settled down at 70mph for 100miles just a gentle drive and hardley any noise ,when i applied the gas peddle to go up hill the clunking gets worse but with control you can live with it,any how i had to slow down for the paeage (toll booth) as i approached the booth i just touched the kerb with my left wheel,i stopped payed the man and you guessed it the knockes and rough ride had completly gone i could cruise at a ton for the next 150 miles no problems with cruise control on and when that engine kicks in for more power she flies and there is not an inkling that there is nothing wrong,pulled in for gas and yes it was back just the same as it was when i got of the ferry. it has to be electricalo!!!!!
    thanks again pete. :cry:
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    it's leaking from the same spot everytime, which was in the middle between the 2 rear wheels. according to the paperworks, the first time they replaced both left and right seals. then the 2nd time, the service advisor verbally over the phone said to me they had to replace the entire real axle, but not sure if they really did (and it's my fault that i didn't pay attn to what was written on paper because i got too excited about the new real axle thinking it would solve the problem). the 3rd time, they replaced the left seal. i'm not sure if all the seals were the same, but the part number was.

    Here is what's written on the work orders ( :blush: i don't have the first one in front of me so it will be for the 2nd time and 3rd time):

    J# 47F0Z09 Diff Fluid Leak :sick:
    - customer states differential fluid leaking
    - rt side axle was grooved and causing seal to leak
    - axle 4K138 - racked vehicle and verified leak
    - cleaned area and added dye
    - road tested and then repacked vehicle, checked with blk light
    - found leak at rt side axle seal
    - removed rt side axle assem and inspected - found axle grooved
    - replaced axle and seal on the right side
    - reassembled and road tested again (ok)
    3L1Z-4A109-AA (KIT SE RR AX H)
    1L2Z-4K138-CB (SHIFT & JT ASY)

    J# 47F0Z01 Axle Concern :sick:
    -customer states rear end differential leaking fluid ck and advise
    -check for leak at rear diff concern
    -verified fluid at left axle area
    -possible seal concern
    -remove left rear axle and remove seal and install new axle seal
    -reinstall axle and top off fluid in diff
    -rd test
    -no leak seen
    3L1Z-4A109-AA (KIT - SHAFT RE)
    10081 (PARTS CLEANER)

    hmmmmmm... come to think about it, they did not even disassemble the axle to check for the problem this very last time and instead they just replaced the seal :confuse:
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    :confuse: i have NEVER seen and drops coming from neither the right nor left rear wheels... it's always been in the middle
    also, they have never mentioned what kind of fluid they used after each fix. the first time it leaked, the fluid was kind of a light greyish color (i supposed that's the synthetic) and the second time and 3rd time it's kind of a brownish color.
  • exploded99exploded99 Posts: 67
    Well, since you have an intermittent problem, try this:

    Put the truck in 4wd HIGH and drive it a ways on dry pavement. Normally you would not do this, but lets see if it produces the same noises and syptoms as 4wd AUTO

    in 4wd HIGH you will lock the transfer case clutch pack, and be in 100% four wheel drive. Your front axle will have to get rid of the "windup" in the front axle, and my guess is that you will have the same issues.

    Remember to go back to 4wd auto when you are done.
  • exploded99exploded99 Posts: 67
    Hey, thanks for all that. I was curious as to just what was going wrong with these diffs.

    Do you think the pinion bearings are underdesigned for the application? I can't believe these are all being set up wrong at the factory. Have they gone to tougher bearings?
  • shan4shan4 Posts: 1
    I have never had an accident with this 2000 Explorer. I live on dirt roads but this is a SUV. The hinges on my rear door have given out. The whole door has to be replaced. I had taken it to the dealer last year to have it looked into under my 75,000 mile warranty. They suggested having the whole door replaced but they couldn't do anything about it. I took it back at the end of this June to have the door replaced. In contacting customer relations at Ford they said, sorry can't help you for you aren't under the 31,000 mile warranty. My dealer says, can't help you, not under warranty. The zone rep won't return calls to the repair guy and he can't give out the zone rep's number. Has anyone else had a problem with the hinges or do I just have a real lemon?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,614
    alman... mine is in right now for both sides leaking. i'll post the results when i get it back, supposedly tomorrow.
    funny thing you should mention carrying something fairly heavy in the cargo area. i was flying on the highway over the weekend and felt the suspension hit the bump stops. not too hard, but i felt it. noticed the leak last night.
  • I think most of us here have automatic transmissions. It sounds like you have a clutch problem, it sounds like it is not engaging at all. No doubt, you will have to pull the tranny out and check out the clutch and the tranny.
  • alman08:
    Usually the axle seal leaks are a seepage that starts out slowly, then wets the inside of the tire when it gets bad, has to be really bad to drip on the ground, usually runs off the tire.
    I don't know what color there synthetic lube is, because I use Mobile One Synthetic Differential Lube, and I forget what color it is. You can tell if the lube is bad, if it looks milky or has metal in it.
    From what you posted, it doesn't even sound like they are working on your complaint. You said it leaked in the CENTER, between the 2 wheels, and they are fixing axle seals. They replaced the right axle and right axle seal, then they replaced the left axle seal. They had to pull the axle out each time to replace the axle seal, so that means they had to pull the cover off the differential to unlock the axles (they unlock from the center). The word "differential" refers to the entire rear axle assembly. That means they had to reseal and reinstall the cover and refill it with new fluid. It may be very possible that the cover is leaking, or even the fill hole plug could be leaking. But very unlikely the plug would be leaking, unless they forgot to tighen it. It might behove you to put on you old clothes, park the vehicle over a dry ditch and crawl underneath to have a good look at it. You may be able to see what is going on then. Wipe wet spots down with a rag, then drive it for a spell, then crawl under it and check for leaks again. It appears that they did not replace the differential (entire rear axle assembly). That would be the next thing that you should insist on if it is not repaired properly. That's about all I can say for now.

    "Do you think the pinion bearings are underdesigned for the application? I can't believe these are all being set up wrong at the factory. Have they gone to tougher bearings?"

    I am not a FORD mechanic, so I can't speak for them. I used to be a Chevrolet mechanic and a Chrysler mechanic many years ago, and now I just work on my Fords.
    From what I have been able to gather so far, it appears that FORD may be using inferior parts, maybe not directly their fault, it may be their suppliers fault. I do know that the FORD 8.8" differential has had a fine reputation for being a good reliable differential, or at least it used to. The bearings are strong enough the way they are designed. They may be suffering in Quality lately. Many of the JEEP people are putting the FORD 8.8" differential in their JEEPs. They have web sites devoted to this. I built pre 2002 FORD 8.8" differentials and they are strong units and give very few problems, no inheirent design problems, I have seen them fail mostly from being worn out by too many miles, or water gets into them and eats the bearings.
    Good luck,
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    wow, yeah, let us know what happened...

    another thing is, 15 bags of wood chips really aren't that heavy. i'm sure 4 guys sitting back there would have been heavier (i have 3rd row seat on my truck).
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    LOL, maybe i will load the truck up again and let it leak... then ask them to give me another axle!!!!!! :P
  • exploded99exploded99 Posts: 67
    I guess I was wondering if the change to the independent rear suspension has something to do with the failures.

    Generally, Ford has made reliable drivetrains ( with some auto trannys as exceptions). Couple of years ago I talked to a guy who has a differential shop - he said he made his living mostly off of Jeeps and Chevys. Fords did not come in much. Haven't had the occasion to talk to him since.
  • ptruckleptruckle Posts: 4
    thanks for the replies i really appreciate you help, i have done this when the noise and clunking is at its worse and it seems to stop the clunking and drives better but as i increase my speed i can hear some whining and then switch back to auto drive as i am afraid of doing some damage to the box.i never us the high 4wd and i suppose the whinning could be that i am going to fast ,what is the max speed in 4wd high,but there deffinetly a change in drive when i switch over from auto 4wd to 4wd high for the better.
    change of subject i have just heard that terrorist have blown up three underground stations and a bus in london.
    speak to you soon
  • when i let it idle for a short period of time white smoke comes out of the tail pipe
    cant see nothing leaking on the ground. was leaking transmission fluid from the radiator lines I replaced them but the problem persists it fells like its loosing power can somebody tell me whats wrong how to fix this problem? :confuse:
  • marshuffmarshuff Posts: 3
    The metal tube that goes to the EGR valve is cracked and leaking. Does anyone know where you locate such an aminal without going through the local Ford dealer? :confuse: :confuse:
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,614
    all i can tell you is that both rear seals were replaced. only comment was 'all systems tested ok'. i'll check for spots on the floor tomorrow.
    also had cross terrains put on replacing goodyear ap's. they seem to ride much smoother. hope they do as well in rain and snow. the goody's were very sensitive to pavement(vibration). one thing i found out is that there are 2 models of cross terrains. the 235's have a 420 treadwear rating and the 245's have a 700 rating.
    taking a long road trip next week, 5 people, cargo carrier, maybe some bikes hanging off the back, so that should tell me something.
  • adamsapladamsapl Posts: 2
    I recently serviced my front brakes and noticed that that had apparently heated up quite a bit. Upon checking the rear brakes I noticed that they looked untouched, in fact after a bit of checking I discovered they will not bleed at all. I even tried an air powered bleeder and virtually no fluid came out.

    I checked the MC and both ports squirt plenty of fluid. Could this be something in the proportioning valve needing a reset? or the ABS solenoid. I have never seen an ABS light on the dash, but then its a used vehicle so who knows...

  • You need to know if the fluid is making it back to the rear wheel cylinders. Try loosening the brake line nut on the back of one of the wheel cylinders, and press the brake pedal. If fluid comes out, then I would replace both of the rear wheel cylinders, and bleed the brakes enough for flush all the old fluid out.
    Brake fluid becomes a problem when left in the system too long. I strongly recommend to flush and bleed the brakes every 30,000 miles, best to do it along with your major service that you should be doing every 30,000 miles, which includes new engine oil, engine oil filter, chasis lube, Automatic transmission flush+ filter+ new fluid, flush and bleed brake fluid, top off rear axle fluid level, etc....Flush and refill radiator coolant every 5 years or sooner, always use DISTILLED WATER mixed with the antifreeze in the Radiator. and used distilled water added to the battery.
    Good Luck,
Sign In or Register to comment.