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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • chandykchandyk Posts: 17
    99 XLT, 83K, all maintenance up to date.

    Driver's front speaker no longer makes a sound. Took it to Best Buy, the speaker is fine. They claim its something with the radio.

    Anything I can do? Potential cost of the repair?

    Thanks!
  • wd1950wd1950 Posts: 1
    I replaced the motor on my front wiper assembly and I am now having trouble replacing this assembly. Is there a secret way of twisting it in? Please help?
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    air bag light stays on all the time.

    2002 limited with 75,000 miles

    any idea what this might be / what this might cost me?

    is this a dealer only repair or can maybe my local mechanic take a look?
  • latedatelatedate Posts: 3
    I own an 1999 Ford Explorer and I have 20" chrome rim on it. No problem yet
  • latedatelatedate Posts: 3
    My overdrive light is blinking on and off after driving awhile. when I stop and restart the engine, it goes off and then after driving for awhile it start to blink again. Do I need anew transmission?
  • latedatelatedate Posts: 3
    So what did you do to fix you problem? My O/D light started blinking this weekend.
  • rcamp2rcamp2 Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 with the O/D light flashing - it also is not shifting between 1st & 2nd properly. Any ideas?
  • mark24vmark24v Posts: 3
    Hi this is my 1st post on here i have 98 explorer V6 4.0 L 188,000 kms .now i live in Saskatoon Canada SK so it has hard winter driving up here my problem in the last week as we are starting to get warmer weather when i turn down the heater or turn off the heater the temp gauge goes up to the top and check gauge light comes on but if i turn the heat on it goes back to normal. With the heat on it runs ok and temp is normal in all driving highway or city . I have owned it for 2years have had oil changes at 5,000 kms but not had coolant changed.
  • mrandy62mrandy62 Posts: 5
    although I don't have a '98, I'd guess you need to replace your thermostat. It should be fairly easy to do, and one of the cheapest things to check first. The thermostat is located at the engine block end of the top hose of your radiator. Just make sure you don't install the new one upside down (pay attention to the arrow stamped on the thermostat for coolant flow), replace the gasket and you'll be good to go. Running the water/coolant through your heater core helps dissipate the heat built up when you turn the heater "on".
  • First time here, appreciate your kind replies.

    I do not move my 07 Explorer much now and it only has 2000 miles on it, however, this is already my 5th month of ownership. My dealer keeps reminding me of the 5000 mile maintenance, but my mileage is way under that now. What would you suggest?

    I plan to get the first maintenance done in the 6th month and all I plan to do is to change the oil. My dealer told me they recommend a maintenance plan that would cost me $170 minimum every time of maintenance, which includes a comprehensive check-up on top of the oil change. Should I go with what my dealer suggests or should I just change oil until 15000?

    Thanks.
  • steverstever Ex Yooper, just arrived in New MexicoPosts: 40,529
    I think your owner's manual (link) says to change the oil at 5,000 miles or 180 days, so your plan is sound. There's some other recommended checks at six months.

    But, if it were me, I'd wait 12 months before changing the oil. :shades:

    Dealers make a lot of money on service visits, so beware of upsells you may not need.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • jwilli03jwilli03 Posts: 1
    I just recently got a 97 ford explorer and the check engine light is on i took for a diagnostic test and the machine read P406 Evap System. Is this a bad thing. Can someone explain this to me
  • mark24vmark24v Posts: 3
    Thanks for that will try that over the weekend.
  • Thanks so much. I was a little upset when my dealer told me to pay $170 min each of maintenance.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Go to a shop (like Auto Zone, or independent, or dealer) and have them scan the code. IT'll tell you what's broken. May not be that bad.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    RTFM. The Owner's manual has scheduled maintenance for at least 100,000 miles, and I think up to 150,000. Read it, follow it. It's the best you can do. If you don't have the owner's manual, you can buy them in many places - ebay for one.
  • andy_andy_ Posts: 3
    just bought a 2001 limited and the aircon and the indicators are not working
    they did but my chick played with something, i had racv come look at it, they couldnt explain it, im getting it looked at tomorrow if you have any ideas give us a holla
  • mark24vmark24v Posts: 3
    Hi just to let you know put new thermostat and had the coolant change and its done the trick running great now thanks for your help. Mark
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,690
    rotate the tires every 5-6k. they will last a lot longer. i usually do oil change\tire rotation every 5k. every 15k fuel filter too. that is just what i do.
  • mrandy62mrandy62 Posts: 5
    glad it did the trick!
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Posts: 107
    My '93 Explorer with 200,000+ miles wont start today. Parked it yesterday, and went outside to move it to wash it, and it just cranked and cranked. Not even a sputter.

    Any ideas?

    The fuel pump is newer so i dont see why that would go out so soon.
  • mrandy62mrandy62 Posts: 5
    I have a '92 Explorer with 300k+ miles. About 6 mo. ago same thing happened to me. Check the ground (negative) wire coming off your firewall/wheel-well mounted solenoid to your starter. This is about a #8 ga wire, small in comparision to your battery cables. It may be corroded, broken or have a bad terminal end. In my case it had the insulation worn off on a section directly under the oil pan which had taken some obvious direct hits from road debris, and the subsequent corrosion build-up impeded the voltage needed to start the engine even though the starter spun. It's an easy fix from the hardware store - less than $10 and your back on the road again. Hope this helps.
  • You will need to start by checking the basics:
    Do you have ignition to the spark plugs? Pull off a spark plug wire and check to see if you have good spark.
    If you have good spark at all the plugs, then the next thing to check is fuel pressure. Check to see if you have fuel pressure on the fuel rail. There should be a valve on it like a tire valve, if you remove the cap and depress the core slightly, fuel should shoot out into your shop towel. Be careful to not start a fire when checking this. If you think the fuel pressure may be low, you can check it with a fuel pressure guage, the fuel pressure should read about 35 to 45 lbs with key on, engine off, and 30 to 35 lbs with engine idling.
    If you have spark and fuel in the rail. it may be possible that the computer shut of the fuel injectors, I have seen some security systems do this, they will usually display some type of security warning light on the dash if this happens.
    Let us know what you find.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Have you resolved this issue? My '97 is doing the same thing and the Circuit City people think it is the head unit as well. I have read elsewhere that sometimes the amp can cause this issue to happen too.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Posts: 107
    Thanks for the input, but there's no need. Fired right up today on the first crank!

    Sometimes I hate electronics...
  • Lucky You!
    It sounds like you have a loose connection somewhere.
    If it didn't start before, it may not start again at some point in time.
    Check your wiring and connectors to be sure all the connections are clean and tight.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Follow-up. I pulled the trim in the right rear of the vehicle to get to the amp. Wiring at the connector was a little loose. Pushed connector back tight into the amp and now all speakers are working correctly. I hope this has resolved the issue for me, and I hope this helps others.
  • chandykchandyk Posts: 17
    good to hear you fixed yours. Mine is still not working. I'll take it to my mechanic and see if he can do the same thing you did.

    Thanks!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You're obviously one of those people who think their car should never break, ever. I'm sorry your transmission failed - wonder what the transmission warranty is on the Honda Pilot? The Honda is probably a better machine - but lacks a lot against the Explorer in strength, features, quietness and luxury.

    Personally, I hate the Ford 6 speed transmission that is in the current Explorer. I've been fighting to make one work right in two of them, an 06 and an 07. But - other than that, the trucks are awesome. And I realize that they're machines, and stuff breaks on all of them.

    The Pilot may be indeed better overall - but I just don't like the feel of them. They're such a tall Accord. Anyway, that's how I feel.
  • wuppawuppa Posts: 1
    I have 2004 Ford Explorer XLT. Toward the end of year 2007 my gear shift level just broke off, but I am driving around the car without any problems. It might be inconvenient for some, but basically what you have to do is have a mechanic pull off the covering on the steering column, and remove the broken gear shift level. You can then manually push forward and pull backward on the level on the right side of the steering column with your thumb and index finger. I don't find it that hard, but beats not being able to drive at all. I was told that there is no replaceable parts on the steering column except the gear shift level. In regard to not being able to pull out the keys, there is little metal piece that you can lightly depress with your finger and you should be able to pull the key out. Hope this helps for anyone frustrated with it.
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