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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a similar problem with a 1998. I just doesn't close well. eventually it got so bad that It wouldn't close at all. Had the hinges replaced and reinforced, but the problem is coming back. I would be interested to hear if you find out anything.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,614
    my wife had a '91 explorer with a manual transmission. she had it for 83k. it still had the original clutch. i would agree that it would be difficult to destroy a clutch in so few miles. another thing that comes to mind is that one time i pulled a friends astro minvan and their 19 foot boat up a boat steep ramp after they couldn' get up out of the water. the clutch smelled really bad for a few minutes, but we drove it for several years after that with no problem.
  • 97mntr97mntr Posts: 2
    I cut a boot on my CV joint, so I installed a remanufactured left Half Shaft (Cardone 60-2101) and a new axle seal (National 710429, which matches the OEM seal exactly) into my 97 Mountaineer. Now the axle seal leaks. The remanufactured axle journal fits very loosely into the axle seal. The journal measures 1.401 inches. Does anyone know what a Ford left half shaft axle journal measures (I had to return my OEM shaft for the core)? A brand new Cardone left Half Shaft measures the same as the Cardone remanufactured.

    Thanks for the help... if the OEM journal is larger than 1.401, I'll have to order up a Ford OEM shaft ($200 vs the $60 for the remanufactured).
  • Define "very loosly". Is there any gap between the journal and the seal lip? Are you sure the opening in the seal is not too large? Does the seal have the circular spring behind the sealing lip?
  • 97mntr97mntr Posts: 2
    The journal fits into the seal with only slight interference. There is no gap. There is a circular spring behind the lip. I suspect the journal for two reasons...1) the seal matches the exact same numbers as the OEM seal that I pulled out; 2) I don't know how Cardone can refinish/grind/polish the used axle journal without removing some metal (unless they weld back in some material, but I don't see any evidence of that).

  • ogbonnaogbonna Posts: 25
    WET. But it does not feel like oil and there is no smoke, also I think I may need to
    replace one of my O2 sensors (there are 3) the one after the converter, could this be the problem source. BTW thanks for the response....
  • ogbonnaogbonna Posts: 25
    Thanks for the response. Wet, About a week after change
    Do you think O2 replacement would take care of the problem,
    We have not done a comp test yet.
  • markzmarkz Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Ford Explorer which recently started a clicking sound. When I popped the hood, I noticed that one of the pulleys in the belt system (labeled as A/C) was turning on/off every 20 or so seconds. The other problem is that the A/C doesn't work (no cold air -- though the fans work fine).

    Any ideas what might be the problem?

    Thannks in advance
  • ogbonnaogbonna Posts: 25
    Sounds Like you are low on your r134 and in need of a recharge.
  • fdthirdfdthird Posts: 352
    That is typically what happens with all Ford when it has little or no freon in the system. The compressor keeps trying to turn on to cool but there is no gas so it turns off almost immediately.
  • Just wanted to say that I could almost have written your same exact message about my 03 Explorer Limited, V8, AWD. Had parts replaced (1/2 price) at 40K miles, only for it to return around 60K. The crap we got from the dealer the 2nd time was that it was because of the aluminum housing (instead of Ford using the cast iron) and that Ford considered the whining "acceptable". Nevermind they didn't mind taking my money the first time to try to fix it but couldn't or wouldn't bother trying to fix when it was under their warranty. Good luck to everybody, trying to sell mine now. Never another Ford for me.
  • Hello,

    I recently purchased a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT V8. The day after I purchased it the truck started sputtering and the check engine light came on. I ran the codes and it came up with "misfire detected on cylinder # 6". The next day I changed the spark plugs and wires and after that it was running so much better and was running perfectly fine for about 4 days. Then it started sputtering again and the check engine light came on. This time the code is "misfire detected on cylinder # 3". I am getting very frustrated as I just purchased this truck. Can anyone please suggest what the problem may be and what I should do to eliminate these problems from continuing? Thank you very much!
  • exploded99exploded99 Posts: 67
    Cylinders 6 and 3 fire off of the same side of the coil pack. Sounds like a coil pack going bad
  • Really, I'm not familiar with the coil pack. Do you have a link that you could refer me to give me information about replacing that. My repair manual does not have coil pack listed. Thanks. How hard is it to replace? Where can it be found on the truck? Thanks
  • The TSB on this is 05-10-17 ( per our service invoice).This tsb came out today according to the dealer Same problem with our merc mountaineer (v6) and happened on the second day of ownership. It is a faulty fuel gauge sender. We had our replaced sender also blow . Dealer has located another sender at another dealer and will try for the 3rd time tomorrow. According to our dealer fords supplier has stopped production of this part because of a bad batch. They expect to remedy this part by august 18th.The vehicle is still drivable , it's just that the fuel level won't register . So reset your trip meter at every fuel fill . I hope they meant august 18 of this year !
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Your brake light switch should be above the brake pedal, on the arm. It's a simple switch, easily replaced. It just plugs in and attaches to the mechanism. Replace it, and you should have no more problem.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Sounds like your injector in that cylinder is flooding that plug out.
  • rainey32rainey32 Posts: 3
    Well, I found out what my problem was. Had to replace my Transfer Case.
  • Still having the problem. I can't find anyone who knows how to fix or disable.
  • jkrcanuckjkrcanuck Posts: 1
    Is there any way to test the O2 sensor before replacing it? Can the 'laziness' be bench tested?
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