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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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  • rphelanrphelan Posts: 3
    2003 Explorer bigger V6, 86k miles.

    for a few months now, we've noticed that there's a rattling noise coming from the engine area when we are stopped and in drive. The noise stops when we shift to neutral or park... but resumes when we move the gear back to drive...

    also, something that just developed is severe oversteer (I guess that's the appropriate word). At speeds above 45mph, if we just move the steering wheel a little left or right, it feels like the truck will go out of control.

    it's at the dealer right now ( we have 100k warranty).. but they're saying they're not hearing the rattling noise - i'll have to make sure they do b/c if it's the tranny, they need to replace it.
  • The autozone machine simply reads what your computer says. Your computer is the baloney.
  • #1 - I assume the rattle goes away or lessens as you drive down the road. Does it sound like tin rattling? If so, there is a loose part that is vibrating, most likely a loose heat shield somewhere on the exhaust system. Loose heat shields on the cat converters are common. You can get them spot welded back on at any muffler shop, or you can tightly tie a stiff wire around the part to keep it from rattling (coat hanger wire is good for this, but the welding is a much better and permanent repair).

    #2 - The steering problem sounds dangerous, any front end shop or alignment shop should be able to figure out what the problem is. It could be ball joints, bushings or steering components. You did not mention if it is 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive.
  • dgivhandgivhan Posts: 1
    My ford explorer runs great however the o/d light keeps blinking off and on....it blinks o/d off

    ..
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    For 9.5 years I have been a regular participant in this discussion group. Next week we will be picking up our new Prius and our 99 Explorer will be moving to another family. Thanks for the all the input that made me a better shade tree mechanic for my Explorer. After an initial rocky start the Explorer became a very reliable, family workhorse. It is in great shape so I have no problem selling it to a neighbor. It certainly does not qualify for the new Clunker Program.

    Take care,

    Bioman
  • baudiombaudiom Posts: 1
    trying to pull the rear shock on a rusted 96 explorer. Used a bit pf PB blaster and went at the bottom bolt. The nut sheered off like the bolt was made of butter. Now the bolt turns in place but I cant get it out. Have tried a small jack between the frame and axel to relieve the pressure, Pounding the bolt thru with a smaller bolt and hammer, I cant even get a screwdriver blade under the bolt head to pry it out. what shall I try next??

    Baudiom
  • carein4carein4 Posts: 1
    I am having the exact same issue...did this work for you? thx...
  • grip205grip205 Posts: 1
    I am interested in learning how to take out and replace the passenger side rear window. Please help!
  • We just got an '03 explorer into our shop to scan for ABS codes. It gave us a Speed Sensor code (C1235) and an undocumented code (16945). The undocumented code doesnt show up on any of our databases and I was wondering if anyone else has seen this code before and if they have, what is it for
  • 41man41man Posts: 1
    Hi first post, I have a 94 Expl. with a 4ltr. V6 and just when I go up hill and acceleration slightly my engine light comes on but goes off after I top the hill. If my air cond. is on it makes it worse, stays on longer. On quick accel. it does not do it.
    I would appreciate some help, thanks 41Man
  • falkfamfalkfam Posts: 2
    I hope someone can help me out. I am new and have never posted before. To start out I recently took off and cleaned the idle air control valve, because my car is making a horrible groaning/gurgling loud sound, and also intermidently idling ruff. I thought it helped at first but now the sound is worse than ever. I am going to order a new iac, and put it on for this problem. In the process of trying to get this fixed my car has started making a clanking/tapping sound in what seems to be the bottom area of the engine. Only when the AC is running. Not when just the blower is on, but the actual AC has to be on for the noise to start. It is constant, and loud. I got under the car and it sounds loudest at the bottom/back area of the engine. When I turn off the AC it stops. I still hear that groaning sound although it is much worse when the ac is on also. Could it be a pulley, or belt? Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
  • Does anyone know how to disconnect the left rear emergency/parking brake cable from the front cable on a 2001 Ford Sport Trac? My rear cable coating got worn through so it is rusted and not working properly (won't release the parking brake) hence the replacement but I cannot figure out how to disconnect the two cables.
  • I have had individual instrument panel lights going out, about one every couple of months. Does anyone have an easy way to replace these bulbs?
  • My check engine light has been on for years on my 2001 Sport Trac! I have had it diagnosed (read the code) which indicated a fuel injection issue which I was told could mean a fuel injection head is clogged. The light was then turned off by the technician but came right back in the same day. The truck runs fine. Does anyone know how I can get it turned off for good?
  • My 2001 Sport Trac engine seems to lurch slightly while sitting at a red light/idling. You can feel it as well as hear it. Any idea what can cause this and how I can fix it?
  • I have a 1998 Ford Explorer. The A/C works fine at idle up to moderate speeds. Once it is at highway speeds, then the A/C turns warm. When I slow down the A/C gets cold again.

    I don't know if this is a vacuum leak under the hood somewhere, or if it is the under the dash door problem. Any help appreciated!
  • The check engine light comes back on because the problem is not fixed. To stop the light from coming back on, have the mechanic fix the problem.
  • This is most likely the result of the engine running rough, probably due to the problem with the fuel injector and the check engine light.
  • If the AC loses control system vacuum, in AC mode the interior discharge air will be diverted from the dash vents, and the cold air will blow out of the defrost discharge vents and/or the heater discharge vents. Check to be sure that the interior discharge air is blowing out at some point inside the vehicle. Look and observe if the air blowing out in the wrong place is what is happening in your case. If so, the vacuum could be lost at a connection under the hood or under the dash. Sometimes this vacuum leak can be heard as a hissing sound. I would listen for it while you are driving.
    If the above conditions do not apply to your situation. then you may be losing cooling for some other reasons, which could be many. First check to be sure the AC system has the correct refrigerant charge, and check that the refrigerant pressures are correct under all operating conditions. Also check to be sure the condenser coil in front of the radiator is clean and unrestricted, and that the Condenser fan works correctly, pulling plenty of air through the condenser coil. If the refrigerant pressures are found tro be incorrect, they will reveal where the problem lies, as diagnosed by a knowledgable mechanic.
  • I would grease the cable real good at the place it is rusted. That would probably fix it for a while. If this works, it might to be grease once in a while.
  • There is no easy way to replace the instrument cluster incandescent light bulbs. The entire instrument cluster must be removed, not an easy job, requires care and patience.
    Once the instrument cluster is removed, I would recommend that you replace ALL the incandescent light bulbs, because it is too much trouble to remove the instrument cluster every time an incandescent bulb burns out.
    They should have made those lights out of LED's.
  • hi i have a 1997 ford explorer v8 5.0L awd and i know i need a new battery and alt cause its been tested and there toasted anyways i didnt hook up the jumper pack due to rushing and i tried starting it, and it almost started so i held it and keep trying then it started smoking so i stopped it smelled like burning wires or something and now it just clicks. my question is how do i know if i fried the starter or celinoid or the wires before i go and replace the starter since im so short on money please help if you know what to do thanks steve
  • Ok so I have many problem with this vehicle. First the back hatch is
    Busted so it won't open or close. This presents a problem because it will not
    Shut all the way leaving the door ajar and my interior lights on for half the night
    Which obviously drains the battery. Second my security system is all messed up.
    My four ways go off for no apparent reason which is s battery drain also, in order
    To start the vehicle I need to turn the key like four times to disarm the system.
    This is all killing my battery. My brake lights don't work but I still have turn signals
    Among other things these are my most serious problems help please!
  • If anyone have a diagram on how to replace rear hatch door on a 1997 eddie bauer and what tool is needed?
  • askdonaskdon Posts: 1
    This maybe the resolution. Thought it might be the switch on the dash which controls the ac and heat and changed it out and that didnt solve it. So, then next thing I tried , I checked the blower motor on the passenger side firewall, underneath the hood and I pulled off the plug to the blower motor to see if it was corroaded and it was not. Then I used a tester to check to see if there was any power to the plug that plugs into the blower motor. There was power in all the positions for your ac and defrost etc. it had power and I turn it to off and it went off. At that time I knew that it wasnt the switch on the dash, and I plugged it back in the blower motor, becareful not to bend the prongs on the motor where the plug snaps in. SO I assumed then that the blower motor may be seized and I tapped on the blower motor and then everything worked. Solved the problem of not any blowing air through the vents. The blower motor may need to be replaced in the future because of corrosion inside. Can swap out the motor at a junk yard.
  • I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 Liter V6. The engine has approximately 145,000 miles on it. I have had no major problems with the engine until now. I was entering the interstate one day and the engine had no power. The check gauges light came on immediately. I was able to limp it home at about 10 miles an hour. The sound from the engine sounded loud and metallic. When I start the Explorer now it runs and shift like a dream. Even sounds perfect. After about 10 minutes of warming up I start to hear a fast ticking sound. Its quiet and power is normal. Then the check gauge light comes on and the ticking grows in sound and speed. The sound comes directly from the top on the engine. There is plenty of oil but it is very black. When I hit the gas the ticking sound comes on stronger and for a second or two the ticking sounds like it winds down when I release the gas. Can anyone give me an idea of whats going on? I would like to keep this vehicle but I need a place to start on fixing it. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • First things first: Go get the engine light read at Autozone of local Auto parts store, They do that for free. Write down the code number(s) They are usually referred to DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) stored in the computer memory, They will give you a CLUE as what to look for. Sounds like your problem could be in the valve train, Hydrualic Tappets, Rocker Arms, Push Rods, camshaft or timing chain.
    Your Oil is too Black, How long did it take to get so black? Change oil and filter right away and monitor it closely. You might need a heavier weight oil or oil additive. Change it every 3000 miles, or sooner if it gets very black. To investigate the noise, you would need to remove the valve covers and check everything you see in there. Rock the engine crankshaft back and forth a little to check to see how much slack there is in the timing chain, Run the engine at idle with the valve covers off and observe to be sure that there is good oil flow to all moving parts, and listen for where the noise is coming from.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • pwildpwild Posts: 1
    Evening all, would anyone recommend a shop for the usual wheel bearings and differential repairs in the Brampton, Ontario area.
  • my 04 mountaineer developed a rattling sound in front of engine . sound is intermittent mainly idling at low rpm noise doesnt stop with serpentine belt removed local mechanic not sure . any help greatly appreciated thanx
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