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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    You may or may not need these items. Get a second opinion. Dealer/repair shop could be just looking at your miles and say you need these...

    One simple symptom of bad ball joint is the front end loosness that you feel when you go over bumps or you might see it in your front tire wear.

    As far as the front hubs go....I don't know what the sign is where both are bad right now... Squeals? dragging when a suspended free wheel is turned? grease leaking out?

    Joe
  • I have a 91 ford explorer V-6 has a fuel leak at the elbow on top of motor. is there a o-ring under the elbow and how do you get it off to replace it. any help would be great
  • I had this exact same problem with my 04. It turns out it was the battery. The battery had tested “good” at my last oil change just a few hundred miles earlier and then things started to go crazy. The tachometer would read 0 RPM while traveling down the highway. The ABS light was going on and off. The speedometer quit working. The engine ran poorly and battery lights were going on and off. I replaced the battery and have since had no problems on anything of the above for nearly 20K miles.
  • Any advice finding a detailed schematic for my Mountaineer 2002 V8. Feel stupid but I can't locate the motor driving the cable attached to the throttle body. I'd just prefer not spending $50 to have the dealer snap the part into place. Thanks
  • I am having problems with my right blinker on my 96 Ford Explorer. My left works fine but when I move the arm up to the clicked position, I hear a grinding noise and the light will not come on. Also, as I am moving the arm up, my right light will start flashing but stop when the arms goes into the clicked position.
  • tpajaktpajak Posts: 1
    here's my situation

    I went to clean my windshield and hit the mist button

    it sprayed washer fluid but then the wipers STAYED ON...will not turn off until I restart the vehicle

    so I restart and now the wipers are off but not in the lowest position..i have to manually turn switch to time it to just right to turn them off at the bottom of windshield

    ...started to rain so i turned on the wiper delay
    ..doesn't work
    ..just keeps running at normal speed on ALL delay setting

    Hi speed and Low speed function works on the wipers but didnt shut off even in the switches off position...then
    POP!..pops a fuse

    replaced fuse
    ..POP when I turned key to acc

    swapped around relays in box under hood related to wipers according to the owners manual position..NOTHING..still popped when I replaced fuse
    HELP! :cry:
  • My father has a 2000 Explorer Limited. The power seat now does not move foreward or back. When you push the button it clicks but no movement, any thoughts? All other functions work. Do I need to remove the seat to inspect the motor?
  • From my experiance from the last 7 Fords Ive had, the service engine light is an indicator that there is not enough air flow, which the biggest culprit is the catalytic converter being clogged. 2 solutions, one replace it, or two hollow the current one out which btw is illegal. Those bad boys are pretty expensive too. All manuals on fords point to the catalytic converter. So dont get stuck changing out o2 sensors and filters trying to fix an issue with a service light poping on. its almost always the cata.
  • Go to www. Alldatadiy. com and sign up for a great resource on your auto...great site and very affordable. Full diagnostics and schumatics.
  • raqglass, I have the car , 2002 limited explorer same problem as you.
    between 20 and 30 mph and 40 to 50 the car hesitates. Was there a repair done? what was it and how much did it cost?
    amatte@mail.com
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Could be the motor, but if it clicks, it's more like the tracks, which may need replacing, but some rear-end grease spread liberally on them may fix the problem. Yes, you need to remove the seat.
  • After 4 visits to dealer for a persistent coolant leak, it was determined that my explorer engine has a cracked head. It leaked coolant into the engine oil. It only has 70,000 miles on it and the dealer says it will be $7,000 to replace engine. I have seen some posts from a ford rep named Cory. Cory, can you offer any assistance on this issue. A $34,000 vehicle with only 70,000 on it needing a new engine is disappointing.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    edited January 2011
    Although the mileage is low, it is an 8 year old car too. Which engine do you have, the 4.6L or the 4.0L? Both are extremely dependable engines and very rugged, will usually go 150,000 without breaking a sweat. Has the engine ever overheated? That could crack a head. Before you let the dealer put in a new engine, I would try to get one at a junk yard and have somebody put that one in, your odds are good that it will be ok. It will be a ton cheaper. OR, trade the car in as it is now. Ford will likely not be able to help you. 8 years is too long to expect anybody to warranty their car. That being said, I certainly understand your disappointment.
  • Its the 4.6L. I started to look at putting an after market engine in like the jasper brand and have one of their installers put it in. I have not gotten prices yet.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Really odd, that 4.6L I have personally owned 3 of, it's the same engine that goes into Taxi Cabs and Police Interceptors as well as Town Cars, which are used as limos, as you have no doubt noticed, and they are just tough as nails. They'll go forever usually. Hopefully, you can find a good price on a replacement. I'm sorry this happened to you. I have an 03 Explorer with that engine in it as well, and have 130,000 miles on it - no problems at all. I know that doesn't make you feel any better. Sorry. Good luck.
  • kekassingkekassing Posts: 2
    My friends 96 explorer shows symptoms of having a completely dead battery. under its own power when you turn the key you get no lights, starter response or even power locks. when connected to another vehicle it jump starts with no problem will continue to run after cables are removed and drive as long as it remains on. after being turned off it goes back to having zero electrical power. the battery was installed 2 weeks ago and has been brought in for load testing and shows full charge to rated capacity anybody have any pointer of where to look next
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Sounds like a bad ground somewhere around the battery. I would tighten up everything, push, pull and shake all the cables connected to the engine, body or battery, and try that.
  • I have a 1997 Ford Explorer, 6 cyl automatic w/117k miles. For the past few weeks, when I try to brake, the rpms are surging before coming to a complete stop, and then it idles at a higher rate than normal. Recently in the last few days, it seems like the car struggles to hit 2000 RPMS but then it stays stuck - and I mean stuck - not even going down when I take my foot completely off the gas pedal. Today the RPMS stayed stuck 3 times for long periods of time, causing my engine temp to go high and the check engine light to come on. Once I braked, the RPMS came back down, the engine temp went back to normal and the check engine light went off. Any ideas?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Wow, you need to have someone qualified check this car, this is not safe. It could be something as mechanical as a bad accelerator cable, or as complex as a bad Mass Air Flow sensor, or Throttle Position Sensor, or any one of 10 other components. If the check engine light doesn't stay on, I would lean towards the cable, but please get it in somewhere and have it looked at. It's probably fairly simple and not too expensive, but it needs immediate attention. :surprise:
  • I would definitely be interested in participating in a class action suit. I have a 2004 Explorer, 74,000 miles and the transmission just went out. This is infuriating that Ford can get away with this.
  • mysti1031mysti1031 Posts: 1
    edited June 2011
    Husband's '04 Explorer (Eddie Bauer edition) has been nothing but problems. We have owned the car for 4.5 years, and:

    Had 2 wheels fall off
    Axel bend
    Replaced transmission
    misc other stuff

    The latest....the car stopped working while idling in traffic. Went into "limp home" mode. Wouldn't turn over or do ANYTHING. Towed it to the mechanic who thought that the key dropped code. After trying a second key and not having it work, our local guy said that he thought it was the security system and that the dealership would have to do it. The security light was flashing very fast, which led him to think that was the problem.

    Car is on it's way to the dealership.

    If this has happened to you...what kind of cost was it? We know that the dealership will have to scan it and figure out specifically what is wrong, but are we talking a few hundred dollars...a few thousand???
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    My son drove our Explorer over a median curb at 40 MPH once, blew both front tires, put new tires on, the alignment wasn't even out of whack! They're that tough. If you have had 2 wheels fall off, that car has been severly mangled, or someone hasn't done repairs right. Get rid of it.
  • mcwellmcwell Posts: 6
    The sympton you have is misleading. The fix is to replace the heater control valve located next to the water pump connected inline with the heater core supply line on the return side. You will need to pull down the right wheel well skirt to see it. $20 part and new antifreeze. Also the mounting braket may not fit the replacement part. Just snip the mounting ring and spread it open with pliers to fit. Double check the vacumn line to see if it is working by placing your finger on it with the car running. It should stick to your finger!You can do this!
  • mcmurrerdmcmurrerd Posts: 2
    The blower on my '94 Explorer does not come on all the time. Any suggestions as to the cause.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Replace the blower motor. It's going out.
  • mcwellmcwell Posts: 6
    If your blower motor works normally some of the time, then you probably have a lose connection or corrosion on a terminal. Try moving the wires around with the switch on and see if you get a response. It could be the motor but if it works okay somtimes and not others it is probably the switch or the power-12 volt supply. Double check the fuse box for loose fuses or connections on the blower motor itself. You should be able to test the wires under the hood at the firewall on the passenger side with a volt meter. If you dont know how to use a volt meter, you will need help with this repair.
  • volek4godvolek4god Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Ford Explorer Sport V-6 with SOHC. When I start the vehicle, the engine idle races to about 3000 RPM's and after 15 seconds slows to about 750 RPM's. When I put it in gear it again surges until I come to a stop. Then it will slow again. I have replaced the Idle Air Control Valve, the Throttle Position Control Sensor, cleaned the MAF Sensor and still does same thing. Could it be O2 sensors, vacumn leak or what? Mike
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Do you have a check engine light on? My first guess would be a bad intake manifold gasket leaking air.
  • volek4godvolek4god Posts: 3
    NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. Sprayed started fluid in vicinity of intake manifold. No change in rpm's. :sick: http://static.ed.edmunds-media.com/edmunds-webassets/1.13.60/img/forums/webxicon- s/emotorcons/emo_sick.gif
  • volek4godvolek4god Posts: 3
    I disconnected the idle Air Control Valve and the problem with high idle stopped. It still spits and sputters at idle speed with a minor miss. Anyone have a solution?
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