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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    the tranny on the 2002-2005 is diff from yours. they have the 5sp auto, no dipstick, sealed tranny.
  • fordexp1fordexp1 Posts: 14
    what is this sealed tranny talk? I was wondering where my transmission fluid dipstick was on my 2005 Ford Explorer E.B. V6. Why would ford seal the transmission and not allow people to check the fluid levels??
  • Is this a co-incidence or is there a link? On my 2002 Explorer XLT (I think at the same time, but not sure), my cruise control stopped working, the horn won't sound and the airbag light is flashing on the dash. The vehicle hasn't been in an accident, and has only 50,000 miles on it.

  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    new design. many auto makers are using them now. bmw 7 series, lexus, and a few others that i don't remember. these sealed tranny is supposed to last longer than the life of the vehicle. why would they use it? lol, perhaps it will bring in more revenue when they break down after the warranty is out... :P
    oh, and what's all these tranny talk? because they have problems and people are talking about them.
  • I have a 2002 Explorer XLT, and it had that same strange rattling noise when the transmission was shifted into drive. The problem appeared around 30,000 miles. Luckily, it was covered under the warranty. The vehicle needed major front end work -- not sure exactly what the problem was.

    Bring it in and get prepared!
  • mike805mike805 Posts: 33
    My 92 Explorer has developed a leak in the low pressure valve so I have to replace the valve which means converting from R-12 to R-134. Is there one of the kits better than others and also what do you do about the oil charge that is remaining from the original charge? Is there any tricks to making this conversion work without disassembling the whole unit. I have replaced compressors in the past and have gages and a vacuum pump but this conversion is something new.
    Also does anyone have any experience with factory repair manuals from Their prices are good and they say they are factory publications.
    I have read some comments from A/C experts on this site so I hope you can give me some help. :sick:
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    "what is this sealed tranny talk? I was wondering where my transmission fluid dipstick was on my 2005 Ford Explorer E.B. V6."

    There is no dip-stick on this transmission. There isn't one on my '05 Taurus either. This is a great way to get you in to the transmission shop after you rack up the miles and your tranny may leak"just a little bit". You have no practical way of topping off the transmission. Remember---"Ford has a better idea". :confuse:
  • dominic2dominic2 Posts: 10
    Thanks for the help Exploded. I have had it serviced at Ford dealers and I will give it a try. Appreciate the suggestion on Lubegard.
  • wifemmwifemm Posts: 16
    Appreciate all the comments.

    I finally took it back to the dealer after a week, the problem was that the fluid level was about a quart low!! They tried to blame it on the air-pockets created when power flushing, but don't they check it first? It suppose to overflow before it's consider filled up to the correct level.....geez.

    Anyway, it's fixed now, no more shuddering, and it shifts smoother than before the flush....I guess that's why there's no dip stick.
  • recently my 1999 explorer air bag dash light came on , at first if flashed now it is allways on ,,,, any ideas
  • mi_satmi_sat Posts: 42
    I have a small ding from a rock on the hood of my Explorer. It is approximately 1/16" in diameter. There's just a slight bit of rust starting, and I'd like to get it touched up.

    Any tips? Can I do this myself, or is there some type of surface prep I need to be concerned with before touching it up?

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    are your cruise control buttons mounted on the wheel?

    sounds like something they call a "clock-spring". it is a device that maintains continuity in electrical circuits while the wheel is turned from one extreme to the other.

    wires from the CC, horn and Air Bag probably connect to the clock-spring, and the clock-spring connects to one of the wire harnesses.
  • aaaaaaaaaa Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with my 2000 XLS. Everything I have read points to cleaning or replacing the idler air control (IAC) valve. I am planning to do this tonight. I will let you know how it worked.
  • will18will18 Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 ford explorer AWD V8. In the past i have had problems with the car idleing at the right number of RPMs when started, usually after wet weather. A quick fix was to just give it gas when i cranked it. The car has never stalled or anything while it was running. Now when I went to start the car today it wouldnt idle right even after i gave it gas and tried to crank it about 16 times. There was also a slight squeeking noise when it ran at low RPMs. It usually cranks to and idles around a little over a thousand, today I could barely get it to idle over 250 RPMs. When I tried to put the car in gear and reverse it, it shut down. I think it has something to do with the fuel pump or injection as all the elecrical works and the serpentine belt is in line. It just wont maintain a constant idle high enough to drive on. Can anyone tell me what I can do, what is wrong, or if I need to head to the auto shop?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,456
    hey chuck, just wanted you to know that i checked my gas mileage over the last 3 tanks. 1023 miles, 54 gallons.
    regarding peoples transmissions issues, i have an '02, had the flush done at 30k. it was worth it. prior to that i had a reflash done, but that didn't seem to make any difference.
  • I would start by cleaning the mass air flow sensor and the idle air control valve. Use a good quality throttle body cleaner. Instructions can be had by searching the web. Not difficult, but to get the MAF out you need an anti-tamper socket. Some auto parts stores have them. Replace your fuel filter while you are at it. A fuel line disconnect tool is needed, also at the parts store. Buy a cheap plastic set and use the 3/8 size.

    After you get them cleaned, see how it idles. If its better but sttil not right, then you probably would want to replace the IAC - it often causes poor idle. The fact that you were able to get it to start by giving it a little gas means it could be the IAC - this opens the throttle plate, and effectively bypasses the IAC. You do not have a check engine light, and that also points toward the IAC - they do not set a trouble code.

    If the problem does not improve, you will be looking for another problem. Don't replace the fuel pump without getting a fuel pressure test - its over 200.00 Quite a few people try this , and it does not always fix the problem.

    Start with the simple stuff, and work your way up.
  • aaaaaaaaaa Posts: 3
    I tried cleaning the IAC valve with no luck. I replaced it with a new one $50.00 and it works like a champ.
  • Hey folks, wife driving the other day and SES dash light appears. I go to Auto Zone and had codes pulled.

    Anyone have a similar episode and could maybe point me in the right direction, what was your remedy..?

    Checked cap--seems okay.
    Evap hoses seem okay--hard to tell.
    I havent checked #3 & #4 yet.
    thanks everybody, Rich
  • slydogslydog Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. It is identified as the famous ford "Moosing" sound. I too cleaned mine, however cleaning it did not solve the problem for long. After about 2 weeks the sound was back. The noise is coming from the the little small black cap which is actually a filter located on the IAC valve.. You can clean it but due to age the the foam inside will clog up the hole again. I just went to ADVANCE auto parts and purchased a new one for $47.00. No more "Moosing"
    If you pull the black cap off, the moosing will go away, but if you put your finger over the hole that supports the black cap, your XLS will sound like you just installed a moose horn. Hope this helps.

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