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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • I went to the shop and talked to the service manager. He was very willing to explore options other than water in the engine. So now I am waiting while they look at the drive chain (?) or something that made half the engine quit working. He agreed that the car would not have the symptoms were the car driven through a puddle at high speed. We'll see what they come up with and whether it is covered by the warranty.

    Thanks again for the replies!

  • To anyone with an Explorer. I am driving a 99 Ford Explorer XLT and recently I noticed a screeching squeeky noise from--what seems like the front directly centered between the front wheel base--of my SUV. The noise only happens while in reverse and when the truck is moving in reverse and it sounds very similar to brakes that make the screeching noise as a vehicle comes to a stop. The truck does not make the noise in drive or moving forward. Not sure what it is. Being stuck in Japan, it will cost me an arm, a leg, and my first born.
    Anyone out there--please advise.
    Ed (Jpndrvr)
  • I have the same problem but it's not the doors - at the least the door ajar light doesn't come on. Any other suggestions?
  • My wife's 99 explorer with the old style 4.0 liter has very little power, and it pings and rattles. There are no codes in memory. I have also had a couple of spark plugs crack the porcelain near the center electrode. the vehicle only has 70000 miles on it. She has to let it sit and warm up in the mornings, or it rattles really bad. The thermostat is ok, and as I said, there are no codes. I'm thinking the cylinders might be carboned up, has anyone had a similar problem? if it is carbon, whats the most effective way to clean it short of pulling the heads? Motorvac?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You have an Explorer in Japan? That's cool. Sounds like a brake dragging problem - I'd check the front brakes, see if they're releasing like they should.
  • Check the MAF and the Air Tube from the MAF to the Throttle Body. The Air Tube can crack underneath where you can't see it, take it off to check it. If it IS cracked, it lets the engine get more air than the computer calculates, which causes the engine to run very lean and ping and rattle and crack the plugs, and not throw any codes. If you find a crack in the tube, patch it with some duct tape to see if that fixes it. If it does, put a new Air Tube on it.
    Good Luck,
  • rdomerdome Posts: 1
    Don't know if you have had this fixed yet or not but I had the same problem and $1800 it is fixed. I had two gears that needed replaced in the tranny. Good Luck.
  • The A/C switch works only on level 4. If I turn the A/C switch on 1, 2 or 3, nothing changes.
    I replaced the switch itself but the problem is still there.
  • Give a more complete description. What happens in 1, 2 & 3? does it blow at all, or blow full speed or what? Does it blow high speed in 4? The problem can be in the "BLOWER RESISTOR", located on the evaporator case under the hood. It has several wires that plug into it, and is held in place by a couple of screws. It can be easily pulled and inspected, it should have small coils of wire with no breaks or shorts. If OK, then the wiring between the switch and the resistor needs to be checked, and the High Blower relay needs to be checked (to be sure it's not stuck on High speed). You'll need some basic electrical skills with a 12V test light and/or a volt/ohm meter.
    Good Luck,
    E. D. in Sunny Florida
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    your blower motor resistor is open, it will be mounted on the input air cowl under a bunch of crud on the firewall. if it was a 2000, the fluid jugs would have to be removed to access it for replacement. they fail often on all car lines and IMHO should be easily accessed. so should blower motors and heater cores.

    that's where 1960s cars have it all over the modern ones. you could get to things to fix them.
  • When I set the climate control knob to heat. no heat comes out just cold air. Is there a check-list I can go through, that will help me find, and fix the problem. Thank you....
  • It doesn't blow at all in 1,2, or 3. Only in 4 it blows high speed.
    Thanks alot for your help.
  • I have a 1998 Explorer XLT 4WD. Two days ago the AC/Heat hot/cold malfunctioned. No matter where the hot/cold dial is set the air comes out very hot on all settings except Max AC. When I turn on Max AC the air comes out very cold whether the hot/cold dial is turned to hot or cold. The fan works fine at all speeds. Any ideas?
  • I have a 2000 Explorer EB with about 104K miles. I had the trans rebuilt by in May 05 by Cottman. I just had brakes, F rotors, calipers, ball joints, and shocks put on. Firestone left the driver's side caliper loose and it actually cut a hole through the inside of the alum. wheel. Fortunately, I was backing out of my driveway when the tire locked up and blew. They replaced the wheel and fixed the damage. I then noticed that the truck was steering sluggishly and had jumped into Low 4x4. I asked Cottman's to look at it. They discovered the transfer case motor needed replaced. The truck wasn't going in and out of 4x4.
    It now feels like the 4WD is engaged all the time and makes steering sluggish and sloppy. I realize that there are 104K miles on the truck, but it is really well maintained and was running great (except for the ball joint noise in the front).
    Is there a way to tell if 4WD is engaged? Any suggestions on what I can ask either Firestone or Cottman's to look for? (Both have been helpful. Firestone has made a valid attempt to right the problem by paying for over half the transfer case work, etc.)

    Thanks for your help.
  • bock2bock2 Posts: 1
    I had this happen on my 93 Explorer. It might be older but i'm sure Ford still uses some same components. Anyway, try changing your heater blower motor resistor which is usually located on the heater fan component in the engine bay on the passenger side.

    Hopefully this works.

    Good luck
  • I have 6 CD s in the player I cant eject or play any Ideas ??/ :cry:
  • Referring back to my messege # 4557, The blower resistor will most likely be the problem. Under the hood look on the passenger side of the firewall, on the side of the Evaporator case nearest the blower motor, it will have about 4 wires that plugs into a connector on the resistor terminals. Pull the wire connector loose, and remove the 2 screws that hold the resistor in place, remove the resistor, then look at the resistor wires. The resistor wires are fragile. They should not be broken or loose. If they are, replace the resistor and the fan speeds should work.
    Good Luck,
    E. D. in Sunny Florida
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