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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a similar problem with my 2004 Mountaineer. When I come to a stop and go to put it in Park, the shift gets stuck just past Reverse and will not go further towards Park unless I stop pushing it, and then resume the shift. Then it will go into Park. So it will never go in one continuous shift from Drive into Park - I always have to pause at Reverse for a moment, and then resume.

    I am about to take it in for inspection and have them look at this. Would like to know what the real cause is so that I can tell the Dealership up front instead of only hoping that they fix it.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 171
    Your original message stated:
    "Want to update you on my previous problem. The service manager ordered an expansion valve to replace the faulty one assuming that my vehicle had rear air since it was an EB edition. Well, guess what. my vehicle doesn't have the third row seat; therefore no rear air and no expansion valve. My vehicle doesn't have a front expansion valve. The AC system was 2 oz low with freon so maybe that was causing my problem. We don't know. I will be picking up my vehicle today and will keep all posted if the problem was corrected.

    Should there any further information on this subject please advise me. My service department is simply GREAT and willing to assist in any way to cure the problem.

    Thanks for all the help."

    Now you state that a service tech never looked at your car and that you and another "responder" provided the information used to diagnose the problem and order parts. This is not a very good procedure to diagnose and repair a vehicle. Are you or the "responder" trained auto mechanics? You dealership's service manager may be a nice person, but the vehicle should have been checked out by a tech whose qualifications were a known entity. The service manager should not have trusted you and the "responder" he should have had the AC checked by one of the tech he works with. I remember bringing my Explorer in to a auto repair shop and I was sure that the problem was a bad front wheel bearing. The service manager responded with:"We'll see". Turns out that the tires had to be rotated. I may know something about cars, but I am not a trained automobile mechanic. You are right none of us are perfect. That is why we sometimes get a second opinion. In situations like this the second opinion must be preceded by knowledge gained from first hand observation by a trained professional.

    Now that we have all of the information, I think, one might be able to say that your dealership may not be that bad. In this case they made a bad decision based upon bad business practices.
  • Hi everyone, i am having a real big problem with my buddies 4x4 explorer. first off he was driving it and it needed front breaks bad, he dident know the extent of the problem but called me and asked if i would do it for him, so i did, what happend as he explained it was he was driving it and turned into his subdivision and hit the breaks the passenger side caliper locked up pulling the truck to the right and then he let off the breaks gave it a little gas and it was still pulling to the right he then hit the breaks again as pulling into his driveway and said he heard a "pop", well i pulled it appart and the pass. caliper had overextended and locked open due to the pad being woren down so far that it was metal on metal. he went and got new pads, both new front calipers and both rotors, i installed them, got it all back together blead the breaks with the pumping the pedel method, and when finished the pedel still went right to the floor, went through and re-blead just to be sure and there was no air, next thing we thought of was the master cylinder so we replaced it and blead the breaks again still no luck, talked to the guy at the parts store he said it needed to be power blead, so we brought the truck back to my place hooked up the power bleeder and and blead them again still no luck, so as of right now the truck has no breaks until the pedel is firmly pushed into the floor, we drove it around my yard and i checked out the fronts after and the rotors had not even heated up at all, it seems as if there is not break action in the front at all any ideas?, Thanks for the help
  • My problem is that on the front passenger side the lock button will unlock my locks but not lock them. The button is fine the actuator is fine and the wiring seems fine. There is power going to the door for unlocking it but it doesn't seem to have power for locking it. Tried to trace problem but am I missing something, a controler or breaker. Here's the funny thing the drivers side works all the locks just fine.
  • Ok, I have a 94 ford explorer as well. My problem seems similar to yours. I'll try to start it, it'll turn over but the engine doesn't fire (start). If I leave it for a'll start. My mechanic checked the battery and alternator and they were fine.....he said it was the fuel pump, so he replaced it. It was fine for a month or so........but my problem keeps coming back, happened again last night? Not sure what the heck is wrong? Any ideas? Could it be a relay?
  • I have this situation with my 94' Explorer. I'm not sure if it would be the same problem as your's but while I'm driving it, the RPM's will go up and the car will just shut off. It does this randomly whenever it wants. I then sit there for about ten minutes and then it will restart but I am trying to figure out why it shuts off randomly like that. If you could help that would be great thnx.
  • Sorry, mine doesn't do that when I drive. Just when I go to start it. I'm pretty sure it must be some sort of faulty wiring, a blown sensor, or a relay. Its hard to figure it out. My mechanic said he doesn't know unless it happens again.

    Good luck!
  • kernkern Posts: 5
    I was referring to my mechanic as in "no boat hitch" on the back of his truck. I will ask about the proper equipment that was referenced and see if he has it or not. Do you know if the dealer "flashed the computer"? How about the trans-solenoid, did it have to be replaced or serviced?
  • Any Idea why my ABS light goes on and off. . I'll start my car its off next time its on. Being doing this about 3 months. Brakes are good . Mechanic told me it may be worn wheel bearings. :cry:
  • Had the same thing happen to my '97 Eddie Bauer. I went to a you-wrench-it salvage yard and pulled a multi-function switch (3 screws to remove the steering wheel cowling and 2 star screws to remove the switch). Total cost $15 and 15 minutes to swap out. Local dealer was willing to do diagnostics on the electrical system and estimated somewhere between $500-$750 once they figured it out.
  • Thnx for the reply but I have taken it to about three different mechanics and they all seem to say that it is in perfect condition but if it was then it wouldn't do it. Everyone keeps telling me that it's my fuel pump? I haven't tried that but maybe i should? Another thing that it does is before it shuts off, all my speeds drop and my steering wheel locks up and the brake also does. I'm not driving this car until I fix this because I really don't want to die before my time. :cry:
  • I have a 1995 ford explorer with 152,000 miles on it. About 8 mo ago it started stalling out in stop and go traffic(which is always happening on the 101 in LA) on the highway. Also, when I drive home from work about 11 miles and park it at home the can will not start for 1 or 2 hours. Could this be the VZV valve problem that you are talking about?
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    they did not do anything to the computer on mine, nor do anything to the solenoid.
  • My suv has about 120,000 miles. Have owned it 3 years. Seems to be slipping in 3rd gear. I had the transmission fluid change thing done. When the mechanic did it, he said it "smelled" bad and didn't promise anything. I didn't notice any change and someone at a garage suggested I'd need a rebuilt transmission. However, 3 weeks have passed and it seems to be running ok again. I don't have a lot of extra money and have been told I'm looking at $2,000 repair. I'm not sure if I should just go ahead and have it rebuilt or just "let it ride" for now. I keep up on the oil change, etc. on the car and don't really have the extra money. Not sure if I should just "sit on it" or what? Comments?
  • What engine and transmission do you have? How you tried putting any additive in the transmission yet? Pour a bottle of LUCAS TRANSMISSION STOP SLIP in it and let it ride for a while, to see how it does. I usually don't recommend additives, but I have had the best luck with this stuff.
    Good Luck
  • josuejosue Posts: 2
    1rst. You have to clean or replace the IAC (IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE) If not Change the ECT (Engine coolant sensor) :)
  • e.d. :

    i have the 2002 Explorer XLT and am starting to get the torque shudder at 3-4 gears... i have read on this problem and have seen recommendations for Lube Guard or Dr. Tranny's additive..
    These seem to bring a friction additive that Mercon V doesn't supply enough of.....
    Question is how do i add this?
    V-6 with the sealed trans..... any options other than a trans shop with the squirt gun? No dip stick on this model..

    just the driver.. (sometimes)

  • Took my '04' XLS 4x4 in for 30K service and the service guy advises me that they do a coolant change as well as a tranny fluid change at 30K. I didn't have my book in front of me so I went along with the program. When I get the car back, the maintenance schedule with the owners manual says nothing about a coolant change until 100K. Likewise, nothing about a tranny fliud change but given the problems with this tranny, I wondered if this has become the new standard.

    Is this a dealer trying to get a few more service bucks out of me or is this real deal?

    BTW, they replaced my ball joints under warranty when they were inspected. MY '98' has it's ball joints replaced at 60K now this--can't ford make a ball joint anymore? The car is driven on Interstates 90% of the time.
    Thanks for any help. :mad:
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    "Took my '04' XLS 4x4 in for 30K service and the service guy advises me that they do a coolant change as well as a tranny fluid change at 30K. I didn't have my book in front of me so I went along with the program. When I get the car back, the maintenance schedule with the owners manual says nothing about a coolant change until 100K. Likewise, nothing about a tranny fluid change but given the problems with this tranny, I wondered if this has become the new standard.

    Is this a dealer trying to get a few more service bucks out of me or is this real deal?"

    I would go back and ask for a credit for the coolant change. They took your money. There was no reason what so ever to change the coolant. I would go back and state very clearly that you were taken advantage of. I know it's not an easy thing to do... but it's the truth. As far as the transmission is concerned; there have been so many problems with this transmission IT IS PRUDENT to have the fluid changed every 30K. NEVER GO TO THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT with -out consulting your manual first, but I guess you know that now.
    Good luck.
  • I checked back with the service guy went over the issues and he said he wasn't sure if the Explorer had the 5 year coolant in it and that the tech would had not done it if it had. In the owners manual, the coolant spec is reffered to as "premium gold" --the 5 year stuff.
    The write up guy offered to give me a credit if I thought it was unneccessary and I will take him up on it after I talk to the service manager.
    I've been going to this dealership for 18 years--a very large dealer in NE OH-- and never had a problem before today.
    The reality is that these guys know what the schedule is on every fluid and this was a case where they were just trying to ring an easy sale. Makes me wonder if the warranty claim on the ball joints was legit or if they're trying to rip Ford off.
    Either way, I'm done with the dealership--there are plenty of other out there--and may be done with Ford because of all of the things that have gone wrong with this vehicle, my 3rd Explorer. OBTW, my ABS light came on when I got home, but went off after I turned the car off and restarted; that was supposedly fixed on the last trip in.
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