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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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  • pjd4pjd4 Posts: 1
    WHEN THE EXPLORER WAS BROUGHT NEW THEIR WAS A CARD WITH THE KEYLESS ENTRY CODE ON IT. THAT WAS PART OF THE OWNER MANUAL ( LITTLE BLUE BOOK). READ THE SECTION IN THE OWNER MANUAL MAYBE THE OWNER WROTE THE CODE IN THERE. THE OWNER ALSO SAY THE CODE IS ON THE COMPUTER MODULE. ONCE YOU HAVE THE OEM CODE YOU CAN REPROGRAM IT TO YOUR OWN 5 DIGIT CODE. THE OWNER MANUAL WILL TAKE YOU THRU THE PROCEDURE.
    OR TAKE YOUR VIN NUMBER TO YOUR LOCAL FORD DEALER AND BUY THE CODE. I HAVE A MAILING TAG ON MY KEYS : FORD BOX 546 LATHRUP VILLAGE MI 48076 SENT THEM A LETTER.
    I THIS HELPS
  • I own a 99 Ford Explorer XLT Suv 4WD, V-6 4.0 Liter. Currently on 88k. Power windows. I have encountered problems in the past with the driver side window not mechanical rolling down.Finally rolled down and never went back up. Had the motor replaced with new ford part from ford dealership repair shop. Within two months, same problem occurred. Yet will only roll a tiny bit down and at angle. Since on warranty, brought back to repair shop. Waited one complete day to learn it's not the motor this time that has gone bad, but the regulator within the door that is causing the window from rolling down completely. Was informed that it's bent and am unable to unbent the bar( regulator) nor switch from different door to defy cost.
    This being said, my question which I would like to put out here is this: Besides the huge money outlay I would occur, is there a way I could install this regulator myself? Is it true that I could not obtain the regulator from a different window in my car? Or is there a possible chance that it can be rebent into correct postion again without replacing? I did question this at repair shop, and was told I would not have access to blueprints of car only available to mechanics. Or do you think since i am a female... I received misinformation?
    Thank You reading... welcome ideas
  • The window regulator was probably the problem from the begining (binding or damaged). They are different on each door because left and right are different, and the front and back are different. If it is messed up, it's best to replace it with a new one, the question is how did it get messed up in the first place? They should last a very long time (10 to 12 years if the mechanisim and the channels are kept lubricated). They are an enormous pain to replace, it is best to let a pro do it. A body shop would probably be cheaper than the dealer, call around, get quotes.
    To maintain your window regulators, always spray the mechanisim with WD40 and with spray white grease when you have the inside door cover removed. AND at EACH normal oil change/service spray WD40 in all the channels that the glass slides up and down in, so that the glass always moves easily and smoothly. Also lube all the door hinges the same way at each service.
    Good Luck,
    E.D in Sunny Florida
  • i have a 93 ford explorer. it didnt come with a owners manual and my fuel guage doesnt work. i wanted to know what size gas tank do i have and whats the estimated mileage per gallon, so i can caculate how much gas i have
  • Thanks for the info. I wondered myself, how & why this failed but on first repair this was not noted. I have stared at this door at times with a screwdriver in hand, pondering if I attempt this, to repair regulator, I might be opening pandora's box.So instead I posted here. What's the con vs. pro to used regulator vs new? Beside price?
  • Hi: all,
    I just bought a used 1999 Explorer sport 2door. The owner manual is missed. I wonder why my keyless entry can not lock the backdoor and it seems the key can not turn after inserted into the backdoor lock as I want to lock the door by key.
    Another question: I read some forum and know how to code my personl code on driver door lock. But it seemed to me both my personl code and manufactural code will work at same time. I wonder if I can erase the manufacture code and only make my personal code work to open the door. It is safer and make me more comfortable to keep my stuff inside the truck.
    Thank you for any hint. Merry chrismas!!
  • Hi all -

    I am new to this board and have been trying to find an answer to my issue with no luck.

    I have an 01 XLT with 75,000mi. I have noticed a drop in gas mileage and slight loss in power. I used to always get at least 300-325 a tank and it dropped to 270-290. My fuel filter was changed last summer. I was advised to put the Chevron fuel injector and intake valve cleaner in it. The stuff worked great! My mileage was back up and my slight power loss was gone. Now that I have re-filled my tank, I am back to the poor mileage and slight loss in power. I have also noticed that while sitting at a stop light it idles at about 600rpm and I believe it used to idle at 900-1000rpm. I have not noticed any other problems with it and it seems to run great.

    Any help or advice I could get would be great. I am hesitant to take it to a repair shop with at least an idea of what my problem may be as I think I have been taken advantage of in the past. Being a single mom around the holidays, I have to watch my money closely.
  • I own a Ford Explorer XLT 2002. About a month ago it would occasionaly start kicking in the auto 4x4 when I backed up and made a sharp turn (like when you pull out of a parking spot). The 4x4 indicator would blink on and off on the console. To get it out of 4x4 I had to hit the 4x4 button and then the auto button. It would take about 30 seconds of driving and then the light would turn off. This is happening frequently now and it's getting kind of annoying. Anyone have any ideas of what this could be?
  • I would start with some simple maintenance. Your plugs are supposed to be 100k plugs, but they don't always last that long. So I would install a new set of plugs.

    Next, clean your mass air flow sensor. These get dirty over time and are known to cause performance and mileage issues. You can google this and find instructions. It does take a special socket to remove the screws holding it in - which can be found at most parts stores. Use a good throttle body cleaner and a couple of q tips. Not difficult.

    Replace your air filter if you have not done so for a long time.

    I'm guessing that these things will get your performance back, and should fix your mileage problem.
  • Ok thanks. How do you reach the plugs on the '98 v6 sohc? The one in the rear of the engine, on the passenger's side, looks especially tough. On that model, it looks like you have to remove whatever the big thing is to the right of the engine, to even reach that rear plug. Are you supposed to use a special drive set?
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    there should be no cap, all the exploder engines since I started looking at them -- two 4 liters and the 5 liter in 98 -- are full electronic ignition with multicoil packs.

    you need to replace plugs and wires. be sure to use antiseize on the plug threads and silicone dielectric grease in a ring inside both boots for each wire. this keeps moisture out and also lubricates the boot so it doesn't melt to the plug.

    get a chunk of fuel line hose, too. make the first turn or two on the new plugs through vacuum hose slipped over the insulator, NOT through a socket wrench. that way, it's impossible to strip out the plug threads by crossthreading the plug. you can still kill 'em by muscling down the wrench at the final tightening, so don't go past 10-16 foot pounds.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    that's a 4x4, if it's manual 4x4 it's wheel bearings or the hub. if it's AWD, you have a bad halfshaft. repair costs are fairly similar.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    recent owners manuals are availiable online for download... scan around a little bit from www.fordvehicles.com and you should find the link. service department can order the manual otherwise.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    1) sounds like somebody replaced the back lock cylinder without rekeying the new one to fit the car keys. so a rookie did it. a locksmith can fix it.

    2) the manufacturer code is not changeable, it's hardcoded. you are aware, right, that there are only a few hundred key notch combinations as well for the standard locks? you generally don't have to worry about the pro thieves, they don't need any steenking keys or codes. it's all to slow and stop the casual thieves. besides, windows break out with a rock in the hand or a roll of quarters, and that's the usual route thieves take to rip your Stuff off. don't leave it in the truck and it won't be ripped.

    merry christmas.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    2002 ltd, 45k miles

    we leave the climate control in auto all the time. sometimes, when the vehicle starts up, there is an odd smell - almost smoky, but not real bad. dissipates after a couple of minutes. seems to be in cold only, not during the summer.
  • I have a 1994 ford explorer with the 5 speed manual transmission. I was having shifting problems after warming up I recently replaced the clutch master cylinder. After replacing it I wasn’t able to disengage the clutch I bleed the system repeatedly with out any success finally I re- installed the original master cylinder and was able to get a partial clutch I still think air is in the system however I am unable to remove it. There are no adjustments for this type of clutch. Any suggestions?
  • You're lucky! Like you, an '02 Explorer XLT. However my 4x4 quit :lemon: working entirely ... course, I found this out when I was stuck in a snow drift! No word yet on whether considered part of powertrain warranty, but went ahead & had dealer order the $435 shift control module. Will keep you updated, but I'd almost bet on that being your problem too. Factor in that I've only had it since Feb 1, it had less than 36,000 on it when I purchawsed it. Had to replace left front flange & belt tensioner (fortunately, caught those within 24 hours of taking posession), cruise control pigtail, a speed control something or another that caused the ABS light to come on & stay on ... now this!! At 46,000 miles!!! :lemon:
  • My son has a 2002 Explorer and the ABS light keeps coming on, what did you (jerri1960) replace to correct this problem?
  • bglinbglin Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I want to install the kit but I need to have a live electrical positive connection which is off when the car is turned off. I had hoped to use the cigarette lighter connection wiring but it is always on. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to tap into a ignition off line?

    Thanks
  • Hi,
    My 1999 ford Explorer sport has no horn and cruise control working. I checked the fuse box, the fuse for the horn blowed out. However, after I put a new fuse and try to horn it, the fuse immediately blowed out again. It seems there is short somewhere. Any suggestion for this problem, is it a bad clockspring? Thanks a lot.
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