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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    Temperature sending unit, its connectors, or its wiring.
  • Hi guys, I got another question. While im driving and I accelerate, when my truck hits 2500 rpm a strange squel comes from the engine bay and stops at 3000 rpm. Then when it goes back down it stops right under 2500 rpm. I thought it might be the belt slipping but when I checked that out nothing was wrong. Does anybody have an idea?
  • It sure sounds like a belt or pully. Did you have the AC on at the time? Replace the belt with a new one, see if that helps. While the belt is off, check all the pullies by checking for play, wobble and any roughness while spinning them. Keep the old belt for an emergency spare in the jack compartment. It's always good to have a spare belt anyway, just in case.
    If you still have a squeal, then check all the pullies, take great care to keep clear of the fan and belt! You can use a length of vacuum hose to locate the squeal, put one end to your ear and probe the other end near where the squeal might be, keeping clear of all moving parts. If squealing is not found in the pullies, then check the alternator bearings.

    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • I am in the market for a used SUV in the $4k range.

    I have found a number of 96-99 Explorers in that price range that I am thinking about going to look at in the next week or so.

    I was wondering what probelms with those model years are most common, and if there is anything specific I should look out for while I kick the tires.

    Thanks!
  • I was dealing with a similar problem on a different car of mine and I think it's the CV Joint.

    You may want to read the bottom part of this page:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CV_joint
  • phylisphylis Posts: 1
    1. Last month my heater stopped working...just blows cold air. my engine gage wont heat, I let my truck warm up for about 10 min before leaving due to the weather. I checked the fluids and changed the thermostat and still nothing, I changed the heater core last year.

    2. When I am driving and get to about 25-35 mph, my engine makes this knocking sound. it does sound like when you don't have enough oil..I checked my oil had an oil change and fluids they are fine.
    any suggestions.
    I just don't want my engine to blow.
  • I have a 2004 Explorer that intermittantly evokes a loud skreeching noise from the rear compartment area. The noise lasts sometimes up to about 10 seconds. It can be heard outside the vehicle as well as annoyingly inside. I have had it to the dealer five times and they have not been able to duplicate it. Of course when I drive away it may occur again. Ford has not been able to diagnose the problem. The vehicle may be idling, moving, fan on or off etc. Anyone have any similar issues that they can help me with?
  • ksb524ksb524 Posts: 4
    I have a 1998 Explorer limited, and for whatever reason the driver door will no longer open. The power locks will unlock the door, but you cannot open the door from the inside or the outside, I am pretty sure its something loose inside the door, but how do I get it open to take off the door panel??? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! KEN
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    If you are having problem with the antifreeze being low every two weeks, you have a leak somewhere and yu need to get it looked at right away. If the antifreeze is not leaking onto the pavement then you are losing into the engine which over time cna cause major engine problems. Sister-in-law ruined her Explorer that way. Needed an engine re-build.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    If you have Auto climate control, the temperature sensor determines what mode it is in. The temperature reading goes to 100 degrees tells the system to kick on the AC. It sounds like yu needa new temperature sensor. Hopefully someone more knowledgable with teh Explorer can tell you where it is locaed. In most vehicle it is located near the front of the car away from the motor.

    In the meantime, you should switch to "manual" mode. If you still have problems with the heat, then you have another problem.
  • santarsantar Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2000 explorer. High pitch squeal coming from the front end. Brakes good as well as bearings?
  • I'll state up front that I've had a lot of problems with transmissions with this vehicle. Assuming that the more recent problems aren't related to the previous problems, I'll stick to just this transmissions' issues. About 6 months ago, I replaced the stock rebuilt tranny with a lifetime warranted heavy duty one (from Cottman) since I was planning on using it off road. Also, about the same time, I had to put a new transfer case in. The first problem that I began having was a bouncing speedometer, which kept me from using the speed control. I replaced the sensor and sensor plastic gear. Problem solved...for about 6 months. The problem came back with a vengeance. Speed reading all over the place, leaving the transmission confused as to what gear to be in. Tranny guy said it was a speedometer issue and sent me to a speedometer specialists. The specialist said it was a warn "Aluminum" gear in the transmission driving the plastic sensor pickup gear. Tranny guy says no it's not in the tranny but in the transfer case and it's plastic not aluminum and the transfer case warranty doesn't cover plastic. Question...Is the internal gear plastic or aluminum? and is it located in the tranny or transfer case? Also, Tranny guy replaced the pickup and external plastic gear and it mostly works but....at highway speeds..60 to 70 mph the car gets random jolts. the jolts don't appear to be shifting because no detectable change in rpm. Could this be the torque converter lock going in and out of lock at random or is it some other issue?
  • Update on 92 EB

    No compression... ....CAM CHAIN BROKE

    BUT WAIT...
    Put it all together to spec. primed the fuel system and cranked engine to mill oil over new parts, (cam chain, sprockets, new rockers and rods ((to get rid of the crazy tappppping noise)) ).

    It started for about 10 seconds then nothing.
    Checked spark, good
    Checked fuel, good

    Checked fuel pressure...
    ingition on. 35 psi
    then quickly down to ZERO

    Then found fuel around 5 of my injectors.

    Do you think the new found compression forced the fuel out past the injectors' o-rings?

    And I thought CSI was cool...
    G

    Car Scene Investigations
  • Seems like I've seen this post before...
    Sounds like you definetly have fuel injector leaks, if it went back down to zero quickly, I assume that was after you turned the key off. The system should hold pressure after you turn the key off. You need to remove all the injectors and carefully check all the o-rings, since you are getting external fuel leaks. Did you reuse the old o-rings or use new o-rings? The o-rings must be the correct size and thickness and be lubricated, then carefully slide the parts together, being careful not to cut or tear the o-rings.

    I'm curious about the cam chain, how did that break? That is an extremely rare thing to happen. They would usually just stretch with age and jump out of time. Is the compression back up to where it should be now? What are your compression readings?

    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • Hi,

    97 AWD XLT 5.0l, 90000 miles. took it in for oil change today and looking at the invoice it turns out that they used 5w20, no brand name specified.
    searched this forum for 5w20 and it returned no results -- not a popular oil grade with these engines I suppose. is that going to cause any harm to the engine? should I have it replaced?

    Thanks.
  • I had the same proplem with the pinging sound.It went away
    when I used HI TEST.I have a 98 Explorer with 4l OSHC.
  • Your engine should NOT ping using 87 octane. If the problem gets too intense for too long, it can cause engine damage. Is should be corrected right away. Do you get any Check Engine Light (CEL)? Some faults will cause this to happen without setting the CEL, such as weak oxygen sensors and dirty Mass Air Flow sensors. These are common problems.

    Check the operation of the Oxygen Sensors with an engine scanner to see if they are responding properly, or have them checked by your mechanic. The first thing that happens to them as they age is that they become lazy and respond slowly, then as they get worst the responses get weaker and weaker. When Oxygen Sensors get weak, they send the wrong signal to the computer which then sends the wrong signal to the fuel injectors, making the fuel mixture wrong when accellerating and causing the pinging. They can also damage the catalylitic Converters by allowing unburnt fuel in the exhaust into them. The engine needs the correct fuel/air mixture under all driving conditions for complete burning of the fuel. New oxygen sensors may fix this, you may not need to replace all four. The scanner should show which ones are not operating correctly, Replace only those.

    The same thing applies to the MAF, it is basicly a device in the air tube right near the air cleaner box with a tiny heating coil and a thermisistor, it tells the computer how much air is going into the engine. It can get dirty and send the wrong signal to the computer and make the engine ping without setting the CEL. Cleaning it is easy if your are CAREFUL. The tiny heating wire is very fragil like a filament wire in a light bulb, and can be lightly sprayed with a cleaning solvent like Electra Clean or CRC, but do not touch or brush the tiny wire. You can find instructions on how to clean the MAF by Googling "cleaning maf", or take it to your mechanic.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • Your Guess was right, it's a 4.0L SOHC 6 cyl engine. I'll have to look up the transmission model. I also had a 2002 V8 explorer but traded it in before gas prices soared past $3. It had about 36,000 so nowhere near the mileage of 72,000 when my first transmission failed. I'll be checking the location of the pickup soon. The same guy who rebuilt the tranny is in fact the same guy who provided the transfer case. I have a feeling that I might have to pull the sensor pickup and try to take a picture of the internal gear, if that is possible.

    Thanks a lot for taking the time to answer my questions.
  • My 1998 Explorer will not go into overdrive. When it does go into overdrive it will get kicked out into neutral and then the overdrive light will begin flashing.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    If you haven't already addressed this, try a body shop. I'm sure they have had to make this repair before on an Explorer. Plus their hourly rates are cheaper than a dealership.
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