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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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  • my 2000 ford explorer just had a torque solenoid lock-up switch fixed and it just went out on me again what should i do?
  • rayz1rayz1 Posts: 2
    I have a '96 explorer xlt 4 disc brakes. I have a pull to the right on braking. It does it about 50% of the time. I pulled left caliper and made sure all was proper. I applied antiseize on the pins and the problem was still there. I then replaced both calipers with all new equipment(Pins, SS slide etc and I still have the same pull. I am at a loss at what to do next. Car has 156k miles on it I purchased it new and have flushed the brake fluid every couple of years since new. There is significantly more brake dust on the right wheel
  • Could be a problem with the brake hose on the right side. They sometimes collapse, or partially collapse; internally and don't allow the caliper to retract. It might also be a good time to check the rear brakes, too.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    door ajar light on a common problem in 02 models. perhaps the same in 03.

    has problem with passenger door ajar light twice - replaced switch both times. 3rd time, obviously NOT the switch, they replaced/checked the wiring and has been since since.

    if that is the only problem you have at 60k I dont believe that warrants trading it in.

    as for the alarm - the manual is not very clear when and how it arms. perhaps ford could tell you how and it may help you here.
  • Ok - so maybe I spoke to soon. After a couple of tanks my mileage has dropped again. I can't figure out what is going on. It seems as if as long as something is cleaned, whether it be fuel injection cleaner or the throttle body cleaned, the mileage is back and then after a few tanks it gets gunked up again. So am I crazy in thinking that something is "dirtying" up things. If so, what could that be?

    Any thoughts?
  • biomanbioman Posts: 171
    I am going to have to replace the rear brake pads and one of the two rear discs on my 99 Explorer XLT 4WD. Is it accepted practice to replace one disc or does one have to replace the discs in pairs? I would much rather replace the badly scored disc than have it machined.
  • You don't have to replace the disks in pairs, but they should both have the same characteristics. If you have a stock rotor on the good side, then use a stock rotor on the replacement side, don't mix and match stock, slotted, drilled, etc.
    If you have a badly scored disk, it is best to replace it, as there is not likely enough "meat" on it to be able to get a clean turn, and it may have been heated and warped.
    What kind of pads are you planning on using? Stock or aftermarket?
  • biomanbioman Posts: 171
    Electricdesign,

    Thanks for the quick reply! I will make sure that I get a stock replacement disc. I am going to purchase Raybestos QS ceramic pads. I already have them on the front. I'm kind of disappointed in myself for missing a check of the rear brakes pads the last time I rotated my tires. I will consider the cost of the new disc as "tuition" for future maintenance procedures. One never stops learning.

    Bioman
  • Regarding brake pads, for the benefit of the readers, the brake pad thickness should always be checked every time the tires are rotated. The tires are off then anyway, so it is easy to do it then. It should be recorded on the Service Checklist Sheet. At last take a look and them and note that the pad linings are not worn out. The lining is considered worn out when the lining material is worn down to the same thickness as the backing plate. Is is best to record the actual thickness of each pad lining, using a simple tool like a tire thread depth guage. This can helpful, as you can review the previous Service Checklists and determine the history of the brake pad and tire wear, calculate rate of wear, and estimate expected life. This would help you to plan when you need your next brake job.
    I buy my brake pads on the internet and keep them in stock in the garage, ready for when I need them.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    I have a 2003 Explorer XLT sport with 53K miles. It appears that everytime I take it to my local Ford dealer, it costs me more than it should.

    I supposedly had a bad idle selenoid. They charged $85 for diagnostic and selenoid replacement, $44 for the part itself, and a whopping $150 for computer reprogramming.

    To all you Ford experts and technicians, can you tell me if reprogramming was necessary? The piece bolts onto some manifold and has electrical plug. Why does the computer need reprogarmming?? The bill was some $309. I had a 1992 BMW 325i two years ago, and the idle selonoid went bad. It cost $28 to diagnose what was wrong and cost $95 for part and labor to replace it. There was NO computer programming.

    Are these guys at this Ford dealership CREATING work to jack up the bill? Is there anyting in Ford technician manual that says to reprogram the computer?

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • I don't know if the computer reprograming was really necessary, I've replaced parts connected to the computer with no computer 'reflash', and it worked fine, but the newest I worked on was a 2000. Myself, I try to stay away from the Ford Dealer repair shop if at all possible, they are always sky high. They are out to 'sell' you something, maybe that's why they call it a sell-a-noid!
  • Hi ,

    I replaced the resistor for the A/C on a ford explorer 2002 V6 twice now. First time it last for about 2 weeks and the second time it burned out after 30 minutes. Has anybody an idea what the problem could be?

    Thanks

    Chris
  • I assume you are talking about the wire resistor for your fan speeds, that mounts into the side of the evaporator case, located under the hood, should have several wires connected to it, I think 4 or 5. It sounds like it is geting hot, could be caused by one of 2 things, first it could be electrical overload causing it to heat up OR second it could be restricted airflow over the resistor coils causing it to heat up. Pull out the resistor and check inside the evaporator housing for any leaves and anything that could cause the air not to blow on it. Run the A/C on HIGH speed with the resistor out and unplugged and see if you can feel good airflow through the resistor opening. If air flow seems good, the next thing to check is for is electrical overload, mostly likely caused by a short somewhere in the wiring. The short may be intermittent, and may be hard to find. If you don't have the electrical troubleshooting skills to find the problem, it's best to take it to someone who does.
  • Hello all.

    Can somebody tell me why the air bag is comming off?
  • biomanbioman Posts: 171
    If you mean that the airbag warning light on constantly, that means that you have a problem with the airbag circuitry and you should take the truck in and have it checked out ASAP. If you mean that the airbag is literally coming off of the steering wheel or the dash, the problem may be more urgent because you are dealing with a potential bomb that could cause fatal injury and you should deal with it immediately.
  • It indicates that there is a malfunction in the air bag system. It may or may not be disabled. It is much too dangerous for an unqualified person to work on it. It has to be diagnosed with a special code reader for the purpose. I can NOT recommend that you to work on it, as the danger creates a large liablity. Take it to a dealer or a qualified shop for diagnosis and repair.
  • hi i have an 01 explorer xlt the other day i rolled my drivers window down about half but when i tryed to roll it back up it just kept going down now its all the way down and i cant seem to get it back up ive also noticed a clicking sound coming from under the dash all the other windows are working fine any help would be appreciated. :cry:
  • zeakzeak Posts: 24
    i have been hearing a wobbling/bearing sound from my left rear wheel. took my 1995 explorer to get tires rotated to see if it could be a tire. symptom remains the same; the tire dealer said i have rear end problems and best to locate a used assembly and replace.

    has anyone had any experience in this area. sound starts at 30 mph and gets worse with speed. my first guess would have been u-joint. Thanks
  • You need to get it diagnosed at a dealer or good shop right away. From what you say, it sounds like an electrical problem, the switch could be shorting out, making the motor run the window down, possibly the motor is staying on and the sound you hear could be the window circuit breaker reseting itself. It could burn up the window motor or worse. Get it checked right away.
  • Did the tire dealer say anything else, like could he feel any play in the wheel or axle when they had the wheels off the ground? If sound is distinctly coming from the left wheel, the left axle bearing would be most likely at fault. But if it was, the tire guy should have detected some play in it, and also likely the the axle grease seal would be leaking and the grease would show up on the inside of the backing plate (look under the vehicle), and in the brake drum.
    If the axle bearing and seal are ok, and the universal joints are not loose, then look for loose bearings in the rear axle. Check the pinion bearings by having transmission in neutral, wheels safely blocked, pushing side to side on the companion flange. There should be ZERO play. If any play at all, the pinion bearings are shot. Then the internal carrier bearing must be checked by removing the rear cover, draining the lubricant, and pulling side to side, up and down and in and out on the carrier assembly. There should be ZERO play. If any play at all, the carrier bearings are shot. Replacing bearings and shims and setup should be left to a professional.
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