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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • cuznverncuznvern Posts: 4
    I had a similar problem. My leak was on the elbow of the fuel regulator(at least that is what I was told it was.)The ford dealer Iwent to said I had to buy the whole harness which was the regulator and the fuel line for $350. I found a junk yard here in cincinnati that sold me the regulator for $10. After some "rigging" it worked out fine. I would try to find a salvage yard that will work with you. Of course you know its a crapshoot, but I got lucky
  • I have a similar problem with my 1996 Ford Explorer. My mechanic thought it may be a problem with this idle control sensor (about $65) which is connected by two screws in the engine compartment. It was replaced and did not solve the problem. He then replaced a speed sensor (about $34)in the transmission and it seemed to not die by running but it still dies when shifting from park to reverse or drive. It may be another problem also. I would appreciate any advice if you figure out what is going on with your car.
  • When the engine dies, test it with this to see if you lost spark.

    http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=84&rn=605&action=show_detail
  • I purchased a used 2002 Ford Explorer in Sept ‘04. During the past 9 months, it has been in the shop three times:

    1. Oct 15, 2005 - $810 to replace the solinoid, because the OD light was flashing & the car was jerking into gear.
    2. March 13, 2006 - $1,874 to rebuild my transmission, because the OD light was on permanently and car would not go into 3rd gear...sounds like #1 (see above).
    3. June 6, 2006 - the dealer wanted over $2,300 for brakes!!! Since I did not have the money, I suggested he do the "most" he could for the "minimum" amount of money and walked out paying $653 for rotors! I had never had squeaks because I had just had my brakes done about 18 months prior. The ABS light still comes on.

    In addition I had to PAY for a rental car each time, amounting over $176!!!

    Since I purchased my Explorer used in Sept ‘04, I will not have it paid off until Sept ‘08...what else can I expect to "shell out" in repair cost, while trying to pay it off? OR, should I trade it in now for a newer car?
  • Gosh, This is enough to make a grown man cry! See my post #5143, if you havn't already. You didn't say what engine and drive you have. You have a 2002 Explorer, probably a 6 clyinder, and that is probably why the problem with the transmisson. The 4R70W transmission behind the V8 rarely gives any problems. I have TWO of them, one is a 1997 with 146,000 miles and one is a 2000 with 124,000 miles, and NO PROBLEM with either one yet. I'm not trying to rub it in, just trying to point out the importance of buying the RIGHT vehicle.
    Now for the BRAKES, $2,300 for brakes, that's just plain crazy!!! NUTS!!! I buy the best both front and rear brake pads, CARBON METALLIC (better than the originals) for just over $100 delivered to me. I get them on the internet from brakewarehouse.com. I never have to replace the rotors, because these brake pads make the rotors last a long time. I would never pay over $50 to $60 for a rotor. The brakes are wear items and these Carbon Metallic Pads will last 60,000 to 70,000 miles. They last me 60,000 miles and I drive VERY hard in stop and go driving, I frequently go well over 100mph if I get the room, and I slam on the brakes hard when I need to, I never have any brake problems, or tranny problems or engine problems with my V8 Explorers. I would highly suggest that you buy the parts yourself, that way you know you are getting good parts. If you can't put the parts on yourself, take it somewhere where they will put the parts on for you. But the brake parts are VERY EASY to put on. Just remember Safety First. If you can safely jack up the vehicle, put it on strong sturdy stands, and have all 4 wheels off, you've got half the work done, but I would suggest doing one wheel at a time.
    The ABS might be a different story, depending on what is wrong with them. That will take accurate diagnosis by a trained professional, you might be able to handle it if you are mechanically inclined and get the proper repair info from alldatadiy.com or from a Ford Workshop DVD.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • Thanks for the response. The $2,300 for the brake could very well be related to me being "automobile-challenged"! Yes, they "saw me coming"! As far as the transmission, yes it is a 6 cylinder, but I am not a fast driver (rarely over 75 mph) nor do I brake-hard. I've had Fords all my life...sarted with an Escort, then Probe, Mustang, 95 Explorer and now my 2002 Explorer...they all seemed to have had transmissin problems right around 80k miles...then everyone screams - get a Toyota or Honda...hmmm. Thanks again!
  • lilmamalilmama Posts: 1
    Hi i'm new to this site and i need help with my car, see my problem is that when i put my truck in gear (reverse or drive) it dies out. i went to a ford dealer to have them diagnos it and they said it was a transmission problem, but for them to look exactly what the problem is, they have to open the transmission up but they need me to authorize it, so if the part that needs replacing is covered under my extended warranty, then all i pay is the 100 dollar deductible, but if not i'm liable to pay $600!!! just for them to look at it. so i ended up taking the truck back home, while i die out everytime i come to a stop, i ended up paying 100 dollars diagnostic fee, but i didn't feel like gambling 500 dollars just for them to look at the problem! i need help real bad please if anybody out there knows what my trucks problems is. pls respond to this. I went to Autozone and explained whats wrong, and they said its the I.A.C (Idle Air Control?) so i bought it and i replaced it myself and then tested it and its still the same. so what else could be wrong with my truck. ???? when i'm running more than 25 mph its fine i even drive it on the freeway and it doesn't die out, but only when i come to a stop and slow down thats when it dies out. help!!!
  • Your problem is the transmission torque converter lock up is stuck in the "Locked ON" position. It could be just the electrical controls, it could be the TC Solenoid, or it could be the torque converter lock up is physically stuck. It must be properly diagnosed, not just "take it and and look for what is wrong with it". They can tell exactly what is wrong with it before they take it out using electrical testers, hydraulic testers and/or air pressure. The electrical controls and the soleniod can be fixed with the tranny in the car. Only if the Torque Converter itself is bad does the tranny need to come out.
    Good Luck
    E.D. ISF
  • rockyprockyp Posts: 6
    I have a 2003 Sportrac that just turend 100K. I have zero porblemns with it until last night. I drove about 40 miles and then turned it off. when I restarted it the RPMs were jumping up and down and when I pressed onthe gas it would barely move forward. I made it up the road about a mile with no power and pulled into a parking lot. I decided that I need it towed so I called and as usual it was going to take an hour. After waiting for a while I started it back up and it drove like normal. I drove it straight to the dealership near my house and they have it today to run the diagnostics on it. Any thoughts of what could have happened? Trans? Trash in line? computer? Thanks
  • All of your Please post the full information on your vehicle, Exactly what engine, exactly what transmission, If you don't know your transmission type is, check your owners manual or ask your dealer and write this basic information on the front of your owners manual. This would help a lot!

    rockyp - It doesn't sound like you did any checking on your transmission. If you have a problem, you should at least have checked the transmission fluid level. If you have one of the transmissions that you can't check the fluid level on, it's not your fault, it's Fords. Thats one of the dumbest things they ever did, to not put a dip stick and filler tube on a automatic transmission. Myself, I could not own a vehicle that had an automatic transmission with no filler tube and dipstick. It sounds like your fluid could have been low. This can happen sometimes, the front seal may seep, the rear seal can seep, the pan gasket can leak it it gets bumped, or the transmission oil cooler lines could leak, they are up in front underneath, and go up in front of the radiator to the oil cooler coil. A leak can happen slowly over time or very suddenly.

    Side Note: Most of you people have the 6 cylinder engines, and the automatic transmission that goes with it is much weaker and more troublesome than the 4R70W automatic transmission that goes behind the V8 engine. Check to see exactly what transmisison you have, and if it's not the 4R70W, that is probably why you have trouble with it. The 4R70W is one of the most reliable automatic transmissions Ford makes.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • tmiracletmiracle Posts: 1
    Hi.. I was wondering if fixed you door? I have a 98 explorer & the driver side door handle won't open, manual lock won't work and the handle on the inside won't work. Do you know what needs replaced? or how to do it? thanks
  • You have the right handle, you need a miracle! Seriously, that can't be diagnosed over the internet, it obviously has something or some linkage broken or come loose inside the door. You need to take it to a repair shop or body shop to have it looked at.
  • Who can describe physically where the read speed sensor is located? Somewhere near the differential?
  • I'll echo my other post, where is the rear speed sensor located at?
  • And some note on the tires. The new set is set number-3. The first where the original Firestones, which were recalled and replaced by Goodyear Wranglers at about 30,000 miles as I recall. Finally, near 80,000 miles, I thought it was time for some new ones. After some research and analysis, I went with the original size in Goodyear Regatta 2's.

    So far, I have been pretty happy with these tires. They are much quieter than the Wranglers and seem to have a lot better grip. I can make some moves on the new tires that the old tires would have complained about (not just due to wear). The Regattas are not off-road or even comparable to the Wranglers, they are more like passenger tires and should suit my applications just fine.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 171
    On the 97-2001 Explorers the ABS rear sensor is attached to the TOP of the differential housing. There are one or two bolts that hold it to the housing. Of course you also have a electrical connection attached to the sensor. I don't know where the sensor is located on model years before 97 or 2002 to the present. Could be the sensor is in the same location. Good luck. It is a real easy fix if you have to change it.
  • Rear Anti-Lock Sensor
    Removal and Installation:

    Raise and support vehicle.
    NOTE: Clean off dirt and foreign material that may have collected around the rear anti-lock brake sensor before removal.

    The rear anti-lock brake sensor is located on top of the rear differential.
    Disconnect the rear anti-lock brake sensor electrical connector.
    Remove the bolt.
    Remove the rear anti-lock brake sensor.

    NOTE: Thoroughly clean the mounting surface.

    NOTE: Inspect the anti-lock brake sensor O-ring for damage; lightly lubricate the O-ring with axle lubricant.

    To install, reverse the removal procedure.
  • Those Goodyear Raggatta 2's sound good. I will look into them on tirerack.com. How are they pricewise, compared to the Wranglers, and how do they stack up against some of the other midrange tires like Yokohama Geolanders, or Dayton Timberlines in performance and price? Some others who have experience in other tires please chime in.
  • I have a 1995 Explorer that has a starting problem. For some reason I am getting no spark.... SOMETIME. I have checked the coil and it seams to be fine. I unhooked one of the battery cables for about fifteen minutes and then reconnected it and the truck started right up. I tried to start the truck the next morning and...no spark. I moved wires around and jacked with it in general for about an hour and it started right up. I killed it and tried to restart it and you guessed it...no spark! What am I dealing with? Could it be the computer?
    Thanks,
    Chuck
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    I wonder how a class action suit begins... well, count me in if there is one.
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