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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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  • Sound Advice was an Audio Systems Store, but I think they are out of existence now. They put a CD changer in my wifes XLT a few years ago. I tried to look them up but could not find anything. sorry.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    55,000 miles on my 02, looks like its time for tires. i was leaning toawrds another set of goodyear wranglers (given that i got 55,000 out of the 1st set, which i consider pretty good). only definitely blackwalls and not owl. any reccomendations?
  • We just had a tire discussion. Read Posts #'s 5160, 5163, 5166, 5268, 5270 & 5273.
  • mtnman1mtnman1 Westerville, OhioPosts: 371
    I just took my 2004 Mountaineer AWD V8 in for routine Maintenance last week. Told them about a whining noise that has developed since about 18,000 miles. It has 23,000 miles on it currently. I was told by the Service Manager that it is a very common issue with the Explorers and Mountaineers to have a whine in the rear axle bearings. This dealership seems to be pretty upfront with me, but I'm wondering if this isn't worse than they are letting on. He told me that as the warranty end date gets closer they will re access the problem and if has worsened they will replace the bearings. He said he gives me his word that he will take care of me. I find the noise to be aggravating especially when I'm driving down my street and you can here that sound echoing as it bounces off the homes in the neighborhood. I have been very satisfied with this vehicle, but I'm getting concerned that this problem will end up costing me a lot of money someday. Please, is anyone else experiencing this issue or does anyone have any advice. Thanks.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 171
    Since 2002 the Explorer has had major issues with the rear axle. The switch to the independent rear suspension has not been a smooth one. Many people have had their rear axles replaced only to have the replacement go bad. So I would not accept any delay. I would go back to the dealer and request, nicely at first, that the issue you have be dealt with NOW. You want the rear axle components that are going bad replaced. It is not going to get better, it will get worse. Why should you have to drive around with a vehicle that has defective parts. If you get it repaired now you will at least have 13K miles for the replacement to be "tested".
  • biomanbioman Posts: 171
    I'm surprised that there has not been much discussion on this board about the curise control recall that Ford has just made for certain Explorers.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,985
    Maybe the Ford recall got overlooked in the recent wave of GM/Jeep/Toyota et. al. recalls. Recalls are getting so common, even the big ones like Ford's cruise control one don't seem to dominate the news anymore.

    Here's the story if you missed it:

    Ford Recalls 1.2 Million Trucks, DCX 800K Jeeps (Inside Line)
  • The speedodometer just stopped working in my explorer it is not a blown fuse I have checked all of them and everything else works except the speedometer. I was told to go get a speed sensor that it had probally gone bad. So that's what I did, I do not have a owners manual can anyone please tell me where the speed sensor is located? Auto zone said it's on the side of the transmission and my husband and father in law looked all over it tonight and cannot find it can you please help me and I am not even sure if this is what is wrong but that's what everyone is telling me. Thanks so much.
  • The cruise control switch problem is old news, I knew about it long ago, and I disconnected the cruise control switch on my 1997 XLT and on my 2000 XLT. My cruise controls work perfect, and I have no danger of fire. I don't know why it has come out in the news just now, when it was common knowlege in the industry a while back. I thought it was very strange when I heard it on the news a day or two ago. I can't remember where or when I first heard of it, but I think it was in the early part of 2006. It was in a discussion on one of the Automotive Forum Boards that I frequent. I'll check to see when and where it was.
  • I noticed it's really bad with the A/C on. But now once in awhile, I'll hear it with the truck idling when I have my foot on the brake (the car in Drive -- compared with the car parked and idling in P). Incidentally, it's a '98 Explorer, V6 Sohc, 110k miles.

    The noise sounds like when a car's engine is turned off after a long drive in Hot weather -- you know the crinkling noise of an engine that's just been run awhile and hot --except it'll do it with the truck running after 5 minutes and at idle.

    There's no running rich smell any more at least, or gas coming out of the exhaust. I guess pushing down hard on the newly installed wires took care of that.
  • There is an article on the Ford Recall for the Cruise Control Deactivation Switch on the CNN site. The link is below:

    http://www.cnn.com/2005/US/06/16/ford.vehicle.faq/index.html

    It says the recall applies to 1995 to 2002 Explorers without IVD.

    The problem with the switch is two fold:

    First, the switch itself can be faulty, short out, overheat, and cause a brake fluid fire that can spread to the rest of the engine compartment and possibly burn up the vehicle and the building that the vehicle is parked in.

    Second, on the recalled vehicles, the wiring to the switch is ON all the time, even with the ignition switch turned off. The switch is always connected to the battery, whether through a fuse or not. This means that the switch may be able to short out and overheat and start a fire even when the vehicle is parked and turned off.

    The purpose of this switch is a backup switch to turn off the cruise control when you step on the brake pedal. Normally, when you step on the brake pedal, the cruise control is turned off by the brake light switch, which is physically connected to the brake pedal. If for some reason the brake light switch does not work, or is out of adjustment, the brake fluid pressure in the brake master cylinder activates the Cruise Control Deactivation Switch, mounted on the front and top of the master cylinder, and this switch turns off the cruise control. The problem with the switch is that it can develop an internal leak and allow brake fluid to leak through to the electrical contacts and start a fire.

    It is easy to check for the problem yourself, if you are so inclined and have any mechanical/electrical inclination. The Cruise Control Deactivation Switch is mounted on the top front of the master brake cylinder. It is a small device that is screwed in the top of the master brake cylinder and has two electrial contacts that stick up out the top of it. It will have a two wire electrial connector plug plugged onto the top of the switch. With the ignition OFF, unplug the connector off the switch. Connect one lead of a 12 volt test light or and electric meter to a good ground connection on the metal frame of the car, and touch the other lead to one of the wires inside the connector and see if there is prescence of electricity by the test light lighting or the meter indication. If no electricity is on one wire, move the lead to the other wire. If no electricity is on either wire, then you are safe from fire when the car is off. If either wire DID show electricity, then you are NOT SAFE from fire when the car is off.

    The next step is up to you, you should take the car to the dealer to have it resolved, or if you are worried about having a fire, you may leave the connector loose and tape it up to keep it safe. This will ensure that you don't have a fire. If you leave the connector loose, you do not have the safety backup if the brake light switch should malfunction. For safetys sake, do not use the cruise control until the dealer repairs the problem. Remove the cruise control fuse until the problem is fixed by the dealer.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • You did not mention what engine and transmission you have. The output speed sensor checks the speed of the transmission output shaft. Most likely, the output speed sensor is located on the tailhousing on the drivers side. The problem might just be the wiring, so look for any loose wires while checking the speed sensor.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • biomanbioman Posts: 171
    My casual post of a few days ago, concerning the latest Ford recall of some Explorers, really got me to act. After reading ED’s response about this recall I decided to look deeper in to the issue. I wondered why Ford is recalling only 1998 Explorers. Was there something unique about that particular year? Since I have a 1999 Explorer my first response was: “Wow missed it by one year”. As a result of ED’s posting I Googled the topic further and found out that he was right on the money. Apparently Ford had been using the same or similar component and circuitry that are involved in the recall from about 1992 up through 2003. They had recalled quite a few vehicles in the past. Now they are recalling quite a few more. Why are they being so selective if the failing component and its circuitry are used on many models they are not recalling? Consequently, I took my VOM and checked out my Explorer as per ED’s recommendation. With the ignition off, I checked for voltage in the lines running to the switch in question and sure enough I was getting readings of 12.67 volts. I decided to disconnect and tape over the wires going to the switch. I will stop using my cruise control and wait for Ford to send me a recall letter. By the time Ford decides to make the recall my Explorer my turn in to a Honda Fit or something similar. One thing is certain; it won’t be another Ford product!! I’m quite tired of reading about recalls for a vehicle I own. I am also quite tired of going back to the dealer to deal with these recalls (GEM modules, Firestone tires, timing chain tensioners, seat brackets, etc.). I’ve lost confidence in Ford. It may have taken 44 years, but it has happened.
  • New Memeber so excuse my idiocy.....I have a 94 explorer xl which is only getting a soloinoid click....found cable to starter rusted away,....replaced it....found 2 posts on starter and a wire going to plunger....attached wire from solonoid to bottom and plunger to top....still just solonoid click.....any ideas
  • You should connect the wires back they way they were originally. In case you got it mixed up, there is a smaller solenoid wire and a large battery cable that go to the solenoid/starter assembly. Disconnect the cable at the battery before making the connections at the starter. Connect the large battery cable to the top large terminal of the solenoid assembly. The bottom large terminal is supposed to be connected to the starter motor. Connect the smaller solenoid wire to the smaller solenoid terminal.
    There is also a Starter Relay mounted on the inside of the fender. You will see the Large battery wire go to the relay and another large battery wire go from the relay down to the starter motor. This relay also has a solenoid wire connected to it. For the starter to work, both the relay AND the solenoid need to work properly. Check all connections at the battery (both + and - sides) and at the relay and at the solenoid/starter assembly to be sure they are tight. When done, connect the battery cable back to the battery, and check to see if it works. Is the Battery fully charged and strong? Turn on the headlights, and watch if they dim when trying to start the engine. If weak, charge or replace. If you still just get a click, you need to use a test light or an electric meter to trace the current through the circuit, make sure the voltage gets though the relay when the key is turned, and then make sure that the voltage gets to the upper large solenoid/starter terminal at the starter. Then check to see if voltage gets through to the lower large solenoid/solenoid terminal that carries current to the starter motor. If there is voltage across the starter motor, and the motor does not turn or try to turn, there must be a problem with the starter itself. Let us know what you find.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • Thanks for the responce....did all that still just getting the relay click...I misidentified the solonoid as plunger and the relay as solonoid.....ooops....It is easy enough to pull the starter,,,,is really hard to access or even see when installed...make sure it is still working....maybe the solonoid wire or posts need cleaning....will let ya know....Buy Mopar....lol
  • well after pulling the starter I found the solonoid wire rusted away too...so buy install a new starter...problem solved for $150.00
  • Way to go, Captain!
  • b003101b003101 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Explorer 5.0 V8. Just recently there has started a odd humming noise coming at or near the air filter assembly. When it happens (hot or cold) you can feel the vibration on the airfilter hose going to the engine. I have changed the filter and when it does occur have even been able to stop it by unclipping the airfilter box. Any ideas on why this is now occurring?
  • stysonstyson Posts: 1
    Yes, I've had a problem with my 2006 Explorer for 3 months now. It has a loss of power which is causing a continuous surging or loping feeling when driving the vehicle. It feels jerky and I'm afraid it's going to cut off any minute.The Ford Dealer and all of the Reps. I've spoken to say that it's a normal characteristic of the engine modification they did starting with the 2005 models to make them run on a "leaner mixter" and get better gas mileage.They advise that I should have no worries about it cutting off on me. There was a Ford update on 6/28/06 concerning a surging issue but there's no fix for it yet.At this point I'm so frustrated with the way my Explorer is running I'm considering a Lemon Law attorney also.I've had three other Explorers that I've loved and thought this one was my dream vehicle, butI don't want it anymore.
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