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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Could be the Idle Air Control valve (IAC). My 97 did the same thing. On mine, the IAC is a triangle shaped part, silver in color, located on the air intake line, right on top. Held in by 2 screws, and has an electrical connector.
  • This is something I've been experiencing and ignoring for sometime now. I posted a message about having a low idle problem and starting looking at other posts. I hear a growl or whine from what I believe is the rear left axle or possibly the reat differential. I've been meaning to take it to Ford and have a 4 X 4 service performed where they drain, clean and replace the differential oil. I have the Extra Care Extended Service Plan so I probably should have the dealer check it out. Obviously my fear is that the ESP will not cover the cost.
  • Well, you better believe it! You need to take a look at my post #5085 on this forum, and also do a SEARCH for REAR AXLES and read all the messages that come up. You will be really amazed and saddened. Bookmark these pages and send the links to everyone you know.
    How long have you had that vehicle, and when did you buy it? I don't know what engine you have, I hope it's not a six. Your biggest mistake was buying the 2002, that is the year that they changed to the troublesome full floating rear axle with the aluminum housing and halfshafts. That is why I would never own an Explorer newer than 2001. I bought a 2000 XLT V8 in 2005 and it is a fine vehicle, but it will be my LAST explorer. My wife drives a 1997 XLT V8 and it is also a fine vehicle. I'm going to sell the 1997 in 2008, and it will still be a fine vehicle then, look for it around April 2008. I will sell the 2000 in April 2011, and it will still be a good vehicle then.
    Thank GOD and Al Gore we got the Internet in the 1990's, EVERYBODY needs to use it to research ANY car that are anticipating to buy, find out FIRST all that is wrong with it, and what problems people have been having with it BEFORE you buy it. Edmunds is an excellent source. I know it's too late for you now, but hopefully you will do much better when you buy your next car. My next car is probably going to be a Honda or a Toyota.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • Go to the SEARCH button at the top of the screen and type in "radio display". It will bring up many messages about this. It has been discussed on here many times.
  • Yes, the IAC is a vaccuum related problem as it controls the amount of air bypassing the throttle plate at idle. If it sticks open, it lets too much air into the manifold and cause the vaccuum to drop, the same as a vaccuum leak. You can take it off and try cleaning it with some throttle body cleaner, or else buy a new one (not too expensive).
  • If the dealer had it for two days and could find nothing with all their diagnostic equipment, we won't be able to help much over the internet, we need something to work with, like a diagnostic trouble code (DTC), ect. Be sure all maintenance is kept up, keep a clean fuel filter on it, change every 30,000 miles.
  • I wish I would have found this site before I bought it and trust me, I will be reading this site when I go to buy a new one. It was just so releaved to read that other people were having the same problem because I just thought I bought a piece of crap (which I did but you know what I mean). But anyways, the dealership just called, it wasn't my rear differential, it was my left rear barring, which I just had the left front barring replaced a month ago. Fortunately both were covered. I was going to print out all of these posts and take them with me to the dealership if they weren't going to cover it so I could show them what crap their cars were. My next car is definitely going to be a Honda.
  • flip58flip58 Posts: 5
    THanks for your reply. The dealer said he tested everything, and even contacted the factory/rep to see if they knew anything. I have a friend with a 2002 and it has a V8. He has the same problem as my 2003 with a 6. Go figure.
  • All this does is confirm the incompetence of the dealeship. You have a problem with a miss in the engine under heavy load. The problem is most likely ignition or fuel related, but they should have the skill, experience and equipment to accurately diagnose the problem. There is obviously something wrong with it, and they don't know how to find it.
    I am sure that any competent shop should be able to find and solve the problem. Take the car to a good auto shop and see what they can find.
    I am sure the problem could also be found by a home mechanic using the AutoTap Diagnostic tool.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • 99 XLT v6 4.0 SOHC

    Judging by the date of your post, you've probably already remedied the problem. I'll go ahead and respond, as I had a similar problem and it may benefit those in the future who experience this problem.

    I was plagued with hard starts, rough running, dying when stopping/idling, poor gas mileage etc. - a plethora of fuel related problems. The final straw was a breakdown recently on the free-way with 1/2 tank of gas. Filled it up after limping off the freeway and the gauge still read empty. I suspected the fuel sending unit (integrated with the pump). Upon inspection there were a few things wrong with it. The flex hose which probably sucks up the gas had a crack in it. The black float indicating the fuel level had a chunk missing and was soaking up gas (may explain the black material in your filter). The stem extending into the tank had snapped/cracked from the base and so the pump was just floating around only connected by hoses and electrical wires. A new sending unit/pump got me back on the road.

    I have always had a problem with less than 1/4 tank parked downhill - nose down. All the gas runs to the front of vehicle, pump is starved and won't start. The tank was a salvage replacement after driving over a mounted tire retired the first tank. Since it was put in I had a lot of sloshing and banging noise coming from the tank. The insurance's body shop and Ford both denied hearing anything. While the tank was down I noticed a small plastic reservoir that was supposed to be attached in the tank under the pump. It was floating around and making all the racket. In the process it probably snapped the fuel pump from its base. It is not sold separately and couldn't be reattached. Had to buy another salvage tank (new =$1100). Hopefully that solves the parking downhill problem as well.
  • 99 Explorer XLT Grey interior

    I acquired the vehicle used but am pretty confident the steering wheel and cover (black) are stock. With the heat of summer, I notice this black material coming out of the cover onto my hands through the seems. It's gets messy driving now. The best way to describe the substance is like black shoe polish. It comes out of the steering wheel cover between 10 and 2 o'clock positions. That portion is not as padded as the rest. Did they use some kind of gel to pad the steering wheels? Anyone else have this happen?
  • I had this exact same problem when I bought the 1997 Explorer XLT in 2002, the steering wheel was oozing this black messy stuff on my hands. The fix was easy however, I just bought one of those nice steering wheel covers and put it over the steering wheel, and it has been fine for 4 years now, no problem.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • I thought I'd chime in on the keyless entry code. I bought mine used and found out after the sale that the k.e. pad didn't work. If I'd noticed prior they would have fixed it saving $125 or so.

    In the process they showed me where the code is. My info is for my 99 XLT - hopefully yours is the same.

    Go to rear cargo area. Remove cover on drivers side which contains jack handle. Look up and you'll see a control module w/a bunch of wiring harnesses plugged into it. (silver metal module not the black plastic one) Gently pry the plastic wheel well cover away from that module to reveal the label on the side of it. The 5 digit code is there on the label - larger print than the other things printed on the label. You'll need plenty of light - sunlight or a flashlight.

    My code did not work so the pad had to be changed. Beyond that I don't know how to fully work the pad. The code entered should unlock the driver door. After the code I press 5 and it unlocks the other doors. Good luck!
  • bk39bk39 Posts: 1
    Im cruising down the freeway and my 98 XLT V8 sputters, looses power, dies, and coasts to the side of the road. Since I'm about 5 miles from home, I wait bout 30 minutes, attempt to start (it does) and drive it another 2 miles and it dies again. Another attempt gets me another mile closer to home where the car refuses to start anymore. So I get a tow home.
    At home troubleshooting, I try starting. When i turn the key, it will constantly turn over and sometimes feels like it will momentarily semi start, but it doesnt sustain the power and I ending up turning the key until the battery went dead.
    Busting out the shot gun maintenance, Ive replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs but, still the symptoms remain. The gas and oil levels are fine too.
    After reading some posts I checked the fuel pump. When the key is turned, I can hear the fuel pump do its whiney priming noise. (thats a good thing right?)
    My car has 113k on it and this is the first issue its had.
    Anyone have any ideas on which direction I should take? Fuel pump? vaccuum lines? timing belt?
  • I have a 99 explorer 4.0 sohc and it started sputtering and jerking under load.. will idle fine and u can SLOWLY rev it up but if you tap the gas quickly or floor it it just drops to below idle rpms..does not die.. first guess was filter so i changed go... my next bet is fuel pump becuz if i am correct about injectors or anything else the check engine light would be on and producing trouble codes but it is not.. can u test the pump without dropping the tank, say disconnet the line at the filter and turn the key on? or any other way..and if so what should the flow rate be?
  • A new poster so please forgive;

    I have a 96 Ford explorer 6 cylinder. I try to start the truck but don't hear even the click of the solenoid or the starter trying to crank the engine. The battery is full and the lights do not dim when I try it. If I leave the keys turned forward, and I cross the two major poles of the solenoid with a screwdriver, the engine will start every time. To me, that mean that the solenoid was not working so I replaced it. Same issue. So, as far as I can figure, the ignition is not sending the signal to the solenoid to allow the juice to flow.

    Old time solution was to run a positive from the battery to the solenoid with a switch inside the vehicle because fooling with the ignition was a bit hairy for a candy [non-permissible content removed] like me. Then, you just turned the key and pressed the new starter button to cause the solenoid to engage.

    1. Is this the best easiest solution? Is there something else I should check?
    2. I can't recall full details of fix. Do I just use the positive battery terminal and the small post on the solenoid to complete the circuit?

    Hope someone can help. I've enjoyed the discussions so far about fixes...
  • Just replaced motor on '97 xlt, sohc v6. Check engine light is on and O/D light flashing. Slight slippage on take off. Receiving the following trouble codes:

    The donor engine is same as original. Is this one central problem or do I have multiple issues?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    It looks like you may have multiple issues.

    P1762 refers to a problem with the transmission and P1747 refers to "Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid - Short circuit." I don't know what those mean but I found them at Ford OBD-II Trouble Codes and OBD-II Trouble Codes.

    Does anyone else know for sure and have details?

    tidester, host
  • I recently purchased a 1992 Ford Explorer. Everything seems to be working fine except for the Fuel gauge, I checked the Fusses and I’m hoping the problem is not in the tank. Can anyone offer any other ideas? Thanks

  • I just bought a new 06 Ford Explorer XLT 4.6 V8. As I was leaving the lot at 9:30 pm I noticed a noise coming from the front middle of the dash that sounded like an old CD player spinning a disk. The noise starts at about 15 miles per hour and stops only when I slow down below 15 mph. It does not make the noise when I'm in park, even if I rev the engine. I messed around with the stereo and A/C and looked under the hood and cannot find the problem or the source of the noise (as it only happens when I'm driving). Needless to say, I took it to the dealer this morning to have it looked at and two maintenance guys acknowledged the noise then scratched their heads and said they didn't know what it was, but it sounded like some sort of air leak coming from somewhere. Then I overheard them talking and the word solenoid was mentioned. Bottom line is it's going back in the shop and I was warned that it could be a while before I see it again. Any ideas or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
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