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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • You replaced the tranny when the vehicle was 5 years old, but now the vehicle is 12 years old with a transmission that is now 7 years old. It may be due for another one. You did not say what engine and transmission you have. You also did not state if it is 2 wheel drive, 4 wheel drive or all wheel drive. I can't remember all the options in 95, but it sounds like a tranny problem, the torque converter is part of the transmission. Has all maintainance been kept up? The most important thing for the life of the tranny is to be sure to flush the tranny fluid and change the tranny filter every 30,000 miles. 30K,60K,90K,120K,150K& 180K, have you had all those done? You should stick to the milage schedules services even if you have tranny work done or tranny replacements. As an example, if you had the tranny replaced at 5 years and the milage was 75,000 miles, you should still do the next tranny service at 90,000 miles and so on. Extra fluid changes, or more services won't hurt, but it's important to be consistent with services.
    The TWO most important things to do to make the tranny last the longest time is:
    1. KEEP IT CLEAN
    2. KEEP IT COOL
    Your next step is to visit a few good tranny shops and let them give you a diagosis and estimate. They can give you a price on a rebuild, if you need one. A few phone calls to them may help. You can also check online with jasper engine and transmissions, they sell quality rebuilt and warrantied transmissions, and can make arrangements for installation. Last resort is call junk yards for prices, some do installations, be sure to check the warranty, and check references to see if they stand behind their work.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • lobo_114lobo_114 Posts: 2
    I also have a problem with my ford Explorer 99. Driving on the freeway and RPM started going up and down 'til it finally died. Tried to turn it back on but would be shaking a lot ending up dying. Let it cool down for about 30 mins. and worked just fine. Took it to the mechanic and said it was the fuel pump. I replaced it, ran good for two weeks and the samething happened (oh, I forgot to the check engine light didn't turn on either case), let it cool for about an hour and ran fine again. I took it to a different mechanic and also says the fuel pump, should I try yet another mechanic just to be sure? I would not want to replace unnecessary parts again and again, any one has a comment or advise, please?
  • You should have a warranty on the fuel pump and labor done by the first mechanic. Take it back to him. He should warranty his work since you said it has only been 2 weeks. They should have given you at least a 3 month warrany. Check the paperwork for the warranty period and conditions.
  • lobo_114lobo_114 Posts: 2
    Yeah, I guess I can do that. I just wonder if it really is the fuel pump. Could it be any sensor, though the ignition light does work but doesn't turn on when this happens.
    Thanks for the advice
  • I would assume that the first mechanic used some diagnostic skills when looking at your vehicle. He did not arrive at his conclusion going by just what you said, but what you said is a guide to him. I am sure he would have check the fuel pressure on the fuel rail to determine if it acutally was a lack of fuel causing your problem, and I would suppose he would have checked the fuel pump relay also. These are the things a mechanic would normally check. Your symtoms sound like the problem could be a bad fuel pump or a bad fuel pump relay. It is possible the the fuel pump he put in could be defective. I still think you should take it back to the first mechanic and let him check it. If you had other things or sensors that caused the problem, it would have thrown a code and lit the check engine light. The mechanic would have checked the codes to see where the problem was.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • jsimsjsims Posts: 3
    Hi!
    I am having the same problem, Were you able to solve it? Please let me know at jonahsims@yahoo.com

    Thanks,

    Jonah
  • bradgoetbradgoet Posts: 1
    :confuse: I've noticed a similar problem with my 98 explorer. It was very intermittent for almost a year. For about the past month it's been more regular and annoying. But today it suddenly stopped.

    I recently took it to the mechanic and he thinks it's an inner and outer tie rod problem. However, the repair will be more than $700 so I'm hesitant to do it. Does anybody know what this might be?
  • tiav8rtiav8r Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Explorer with 123,000 miles on it. Unpredictably, it will tend to sound like it's over-revving when I take my foot off the accelerator and coast. The funny thing is that it makes this strange "whizzing" noise like it's over-revving, but the tach drops when this happens. The only way to stop it is let it get below 40mph, or press on the accelerator. When you give it the gas, everything goes back to normal. This seems more prevalent if I'm pulling my small 5x8 trailer with my lawnmower on it. The last time this happened, I took note of the fact that there was a "clunking" sound, like something was disengaging and re-engaging. Could this be a torque converter issue?
  • You did not mention what engine or transmission you have.
    The torque convertor is part of the transmission. You have a transmission problem. There are one way "overrunning" clutches in the transmission that allow the transmission to "coast" in gear. The sound you hear may be coming from a defective overrunning clutch. The only way to tell is to have a professional transmission techinican diagnose the transmission. The repair would most likey require the removal and repair/rebuild the transmission. If it drives ok, you might be able to wait a while before it gets worse and needs repair. The only problem is that they can fail suddenly and leave you stuck on the side of the road. This happened to me with my old 91 Explorer, when the Overdrive overunning clutch went out. I would suggest that you get it looked at soon.
  • bopilotbopilot Posts: 8
    All of a sudden the headlights on my 98 Explorer dont work. All other lights, tail, turning,etc. work. I checked all fuses that are headlight identified and all are good. Anyone have a suggestion?

    Thanks,
    Steve
  • bopilotbopilot Posts: 8
    Thanks to Ed and Kiawah for the quick help. I just now got back on line aftr a health problem and see your suggestions. I will look into the trailer add on first. However, now my headlights dont work all of a sudden. All other lights work including front cornerlamps and foglamps. Go figure. All this started after I replaced the column ring circuit?? Did I do something wrong while installing it? A bit of a chore but I thought I did it right.

    Steve
  • bopilotbopilot Posts: 8
    I just checked the trailer connection. All is OK. Opened upthe top tailgate light and it is an LED with a resistor to drop the voltage. It still flickers when all ignition is off. And I still get no headlights now. I am pulling my hair out.
  • chadp1chadp1 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 explorer xlt and the rear window shattered while closing it today. Any advice on replacement. Should there be used ones available? ( if so, what should i look to pay) or should i run through the insurance?
    Thanks
  • Save the Hair! The problem is in the COLUMN, the headlight circuit runs through the MULTI-FUNCTION switch, the switch that has the stalk on the left side and operates the turnsignals, headlights, wipers and hazard flashers. When you pull back on the stalk, the headlights should come on. If not, then there is a problem in the multifunction switch or it's connections. It is common for the multi-functions switches to go bad. It is very easy to replace, I replaced one on my 1997 Explorer, costs about $65 for the part and only took about a 1/2 to replace. You don't have to take the steering wheel off, just the plastic cover that goes around the column, then there are 2 screws that unscrew from the side, and the thing comes off, unplug the 2 wire connectors. You can plug the connectors back in to be sure they are tight and test the unit and headlights again while the unit is hanging loose. If the headlights wont come on, even after wiggling the unit, the unit is probably bad. If you have a tilting steering column, you will need to uscrew the lever out of the column to get the MF switch off.
    What is this COLUMN RING CIRCUIT that you mentioned? I never heard of such a thing. Whatever it is, it COULD have affected the headlight circuit, since the headlight circuit goes through the column and the multi-function switch.
    Good Luck
    E.D. ISF
  • The "top tailgate light" do you mean the center high mounted brake light? If so, does it flicker by itself or do the other brake lights flicker with it. It gets it's power through the switch on the brake pedal, that would be the first thing to check.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • jsimsjsims Posts: 3
    I have looked everywhere to see how I can quiet down my rear tailgate and I just can't find the problem. The noise is driving me crazy, any suggestions?

    Thanks,

    Jonah
  • bturflybturfly Posts: 2
    This may sound obvious, but have you checked the actual lights? I had a headlight and both my taillights go out at the same time on my 95 explorer, I thought it was a fuse... but it turned out that they actually just burnt out at the same time. Huge coincidence, but replacing the light fixed the problem.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    turned out that they actually just burnt out at the same time. Huge coincidence

    That is quite an amazing coincidence. It's possible there is some other unseen factor here that stacked the odds - like a spurious voltage fluctuation or some such thing.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • kinney201kinney201 Posts: 3
    Hi,
    For about a month now, my check engine light has been coming on and off every few days. Each time, I pull the P0153 code = O2 Sensor CKT Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1). Does this mean it the O2 sensor needs to be replaced? If so, can anyone give details about where to find it? Is it easy to replace? Anyone have pictures of its location? Thanks in advance!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Bank 1 is the side of the engine which has the #1 cylinder. Don't know for a Ford, but for my Chevy Sub which has the engine front to back, that is the drivers side. Therefore Bank 2 (in the case of Chevy) is the passengers side. If you follow the enhaust pipe down after coming off the engine exhaust manifold, at some point you will see an Oxygen sensor sticking into the exhaust pipe. The first one on the pipe will be sensor 1, and will be 'before' the catalytic converter. There would be another sensor (#2) 'after' the converter. The O2 sensors will have a set of wires on them that connect back to the engine computer.
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